You may have seen one of the fairly recent articles written on the Project Genome wine study arranged by Constellation Wines, U.S.. As far as I can tell, the goals of the project are: first, help retailers and restaurateurs understand where wine consumers are coming from (you know, in terms of their head space or gut when they go to make a purchase); and second, use that information to make their wine-buying experience a bit more user-friendly. I like the idea… in theory.

The initial study (of two) considered what motivated (3500) wine consumers. The researchers were able to group folks into one of six categories: Enthusiasts (12%); Satisfied Sippers (14%); Savvy Shoppers (15%); Traditionalists (16%); Image-Seekers (20%); and Overwhelmed (23%).

I am dying to know what questions they asked and how they came up with these various categories et. al.. I’m also curious how consumers who aren’t thinking about wine 24-7 feel about them (hence my post!). For me, they don’t really work, both in terms of myself and in terms of the folks I chat with at the shop and during my tastings.

Nevertheless, a lot of hoopla has resulted because the largest consumer group (23%) fell into the “overwhelmed” category. These folks are said to be those that like to drink wine but rely on information readily available when they go to make their purchase. If no such information is available – in print or through a knowledgeable store clerk/sommelier/waiter – they get flustered and flee.

It seems everyone (in the media) is talking about using this 23% to leverage some kind of revolution in wine accessibility. The idea is that if we (in the industry) tell you what a wine is going to taste like, you’ll be a happier, more savvy shopper. In theory, they may be on to something. But my experience tells me that you can’t just tell someone what a wine will taste like, in person or on a shelf-talker or by giving it 90+ points. Wine is history. Wine is local culture, flavors, cuisine, terroir, and varietals. Wine is an art. And, wine is a very personal, individual experience. That’s what makes it special.

As Alice Feiring says, otherwise “wine would be another beverage, a soft drink, something you could flick a switch and come out of a faucet.”

My advice? If you’re new to this game or stuck in a rut or find yourself overwhelmed, pull yourself up by your boot straps, grab a bottle and then taste, discuss and even Google it! Just be sure to savor the full experience of it!

Do you find yourself often “overwhelmed”? How would you characterize your buying?

At the shop I work with some pretty great people. At worst they are wine curious and food aficionados (just like me). So after such a great weather weekend here in Boston I woke up rejuvenated and eager to hear what the others had been up to on a rare holiday off and – most importantly – what they ate and drank. Almost immediately I learned my coworker had also broken out her Weber – except she not only had thrown buffalo meat on the fire, but also pulled out a bottle of Rose to pair with it. This was nothing short of brilliance.

I realize you may have just re-read my last two lines twice and are asking “Rose? Isn’t that the horribly sweet pink wine my parents used to buy in a box and drink every night? White Zin or something?”. Well, I suppose it could be as a few (American) folks are still making those wines. But likely if you’re seeing pink wines fill the aisles or cooler at your wine shop and getting more mention on wine lists these days, those would NOT be the same wines our parents drank out of a box (or a 1.5L bottle). They would more likely be phenomenally tasty, DRY wines that pair with just about any fare and are at their best during warmer (or outright HOT) months.

Rose wines result when dark grape skins are allowed the briefest contact with the juice. This approach imparts a few mind-bottlingly fabulous things: just a hint of red pigments to give the wine its pink-ish color; just a touch more oomph (or body); and a kiss of tannin, so the wine is still at its tastiest when chilled but can also ‘hold up’ to heartier foods (like buffalo meat).

Rose sales in the U.S. have really started to take off the last few years. So at the shop we’ve worked to anticipate the demand and pre-order wines that are known to be tasty, sought-after finds. What’s interesting is as we were recounting our weekend stories and getting the wine back in order, we noticed that one of our favorite Roses hasn’t taken off quite as quickly this year. Is it because of the economy? Is it because our clientele is still waiting for (more consistent) warmer temps? Is it because folks aren’t sure the (much-deserved) hype is worth trying some?

All I know is that Rose can be made from any red grape varietal and, as a result, there is something for everyone. Some of the most gorgeous offerings come via Tavel, France. Another one of my personal favorite styles is made from the Cabernet Franc grape; and these can also be sparkling. Yum! If you are even more of an adventure-seeker, apparently Slovenia is even dabbling in Rose. The point is ROSE IS GOOD. So go out and buy a bottle. And if you and your loved one can’t agree on white or red wines, buy two (different ones, for the sake of experimenting, please).

Do you drink Rose? Why/not?

It is only fair I muse on great libations for grilling on this (lovely here in Boston) Memorial Day. Plus, I love Margaritas and I love Malbec. Malbec was the first varietal I really discovered outside of the most well-known US reds (cab, merlot, pinot noir). Heck! It was my first real exposure to wine outside of the US and all I had done was buy a bottle from Argentina. It was love at first sip! I haven’t really stopped trying them since.

Of course it doesn’t hurt that working at the shop we’re always tasting new Malbecs. Many of them are solid wines and still relatively inexpensive; we can afford to “mix it up” for our customers. Last week one of my favorite importers/distributors brought another one by the shop for us to taste. I put my nose in the glass and… MARGARITAS!

Yep, I smelled margarita in my wine glass. Yet there was no tequila or lime juice in sight. I took a look at the wine again and went in for a sip. It was a fairly typical Malbec on the mid-palate. Juicy, red berry fruit, smooth (from the oak, no doubt) with hints of spice. There was definitely some of that margarita ‘essence’ on the finish. Still, not too shabby. It took me a second to put the pieces together… My Margarita association was with the saline (salt) scents and flavors imparted in the wine. That was a new one for me and my beloved Malbec. My wine brain told me it had to be the soil… or was it?

Later I researched my suspicion. The Mendoza/Lujan de Cuyo region in particular is known for its sandy soil – and the saline imparted from aquifers near the surface. Very cool. (It’s always nice to know I’m not going crazy and that by paying attention to my senses while tasting wine, I’m getting more out of the experience and learning more to boot!)

It was a good reminder too. I may be an academic at heart, but for wine the classroom is your glass. You don’t always need to “study” all of the elements so much as let your nose and tongue do the walking. The more you do, the more you learn.

When’s the last time your nose led you somewhere new?

Were you one of the many Boston-area Red Sox fans who grabbed a bottle of the Schilling Schardonnay or Caber Knuckle last year? If so, I hope you were one of the first to home plate (aka your local wine shop)! Those who purchased these wines early in the game had a chance to taste some good (for what it is) wine benefiting great charity organizations. Unfortunately I was one of the ones who tasted the wine in extra innings – after the demand had exceeded industry expectations and the scramble for more juice compromised quality.

Never fear! The professionals behind the magic are attempting to hit consistent grand slams this year with their newest Boston Red Sox Charity Wines line up: Vintage Papi (cab/merlot blend); Captain’s Cabernet; and SauvigYoouuk Blanc. They’ve gone West this year to Selby Vineyards (not to Chile as they did in ’07) to produce these 2008 releases. The goal is to ensure there is enough good juice to go around.

Here’s the scoop! In the Boston market, the first pitch was thrown for the 2008 lineup last Thursday at the EMC club at Fenway Park. Big Papi, Varitek and Youk were all there to toast the wines so it’s possible you’ve seen recent publicity on the wine and the charities their proceeds benefit. If you’ve read more than one article, you may also have seen some inconsistency in what’s written about what’s actually available. Tricky!

To sort it all out, I’ve gone right to the source (aka the MA distributor of these products): First, we drank all of the Schilling Schard and CaberKnuckle last year. If you’re local wine shop still has a few bottles clanking around, grab one (if you dare)! There is no more of either of these wines available. Second, you’ll have to wait another couple of weeks before the 2008 series will be available. The wine is mellowing from its trip from the west coast before it will land on your local wine rack.

Of course, I’m dying to know… Did you grab a bottle last year? Which did you try? How did you like it?

Note for readers in other US markets: Charity Wines is working their wine/athlete/charity mojo in at least 3 other cities – New York, Cincinnati and Atlanta. I’d be curious your experiences with those wines, too!

Wine making is a science project. Heck, the entire liquor industry is one big experiment! That’s a big part of what makes wine so darn fun to taste and learn about.

So here’s my latest evidence… Last Thursday night I wanted a nice glass of something “comforting” with my dinner. I had a bottle of a baby (e.g. $10) 2005 Bordeaux in my wine fridge I knew would scratch the itch perfectly. I unscrewed the cap (yep! a screw cap, so no fear of a corked bottle), poured myself a glass and began sipping. It was exactly as I remembered: bright red-berry fruit with hints of caramel, a supple mouthfeel, gentle tannins and a lingering, slightly spicy finish. I finished the first glass with dinner and poured myself a second while I watched the game. Yum. Since it was a 2005 Bordeaux, I decided to cap the bottle (rather than pump the air out) and tucked it back in my fridge for another night or two to see what it would do.

On Saturday night I was psyched to pull the bottle back out with dinner. I let it warm up to room temperature and poured my boyfriend and I each a glass. I was still munching when he went in for a sniff…. “Vanilla! No, BUTTERSCOTCH? Is it supposed to be like that?”, was the reaction my previously yummy wine elicited. And, NO. It was not supposed to be like that. It not only smelled exactly like a butterscotch candy, it tasted like it. We dumped the bottle and moved on (yea back up wines). The experience got me thinking… can a wine start out great/normal and then turn out to be flawed?

So I did some additional research… What I learned was the wine could have been affected with too much diacetyl. Sometimes this can be a good thing, as the wine takes on buttery, nutty or even caramel-ish tendencies. I don’t mind essence of caramel at all in my wine – either sniffing or sipping! What I find fascinating is that the mild caramel flavor I tasted on Thursday night could devolve SO dramatically so as to render the wine undrinkable by Saturday.

I’m going to continue my research on this phenomenon and recreate my experiment with another bottle. In the meantime, what’s your experience with flawed wine? Do you know something more about Diacetyl?