Archive for June, 2008

the mercury is rising!

Monday, June 30th, 2008 by Rebecca

Now that the mercury is rising every day, I’ve been fielding more and more questions about the “right” temperature to store and serve wine. It’s good that you’re paying attention, too! Because if you just pulled a bottle of white or rose off your wine rack (which, incidentally, is sitting in your un-air-conditioned living room) and then go to sip said wine at room temperature or (just as bad) have over-chilled it, you’re probably not enjoying your libation. What’s the point of that?!

When it comes to storage:

DON’T leave your wine on a rack in your air conditioned free living room. Sure, short term you may get away with it, but here in Boston our freaky weather has been known to spoil more than a bottle or two after even a 3-4 day heat wave. I don’t have a budget that allows me to buy “serious” wines that I should store for several years – though I do have a few. But I also value the cash I do have and try to avoid spoiling any investment.

DO find a spot in your home/apartment where the sun’s rays won’t find your wine, the temperature stays pretty consistent and won’t sit above 75 degrees (MAX). I shoot for any place between 66 and 72 degrees. I have a cellar in my current place, but bought a small wine fridge to avoid spoiling my wine at my last apartment (which could BAKE in the summer). Before that, I didn’t even have the space for a fridge and stored my wine under my bed (no kidding); my bedroom was the only place that stayed pretty “mild” during the summer months.

As for serving wine:

DO consider chilling your fruitier, less tannic red wines in the summer. Even about fifteen or twenty minutes in the fridge can get your red wine back down to optimal, serviceable temperature (~65 degrees) on a hot day. I’m not suggesting this as a standard MO in the winter, but room temperature definitely creeps up in the summer months. (Last summer I went out for a fancy meal to celebrate my birthday. I don’t know where they were storing the Pinot Noir we ordered, but after they poured me the initial taste, I requested an ice bucket to get it down to a reasonable temperature. The wine really benefited and became a welcome complement to our meal. Poor form on the restaurant’s part, but the others in my dinner party were pleased I took the initiative to remedy the situation.) The bottle/glass of red should have just a touch of cool to it.

DO serve your white and rose wines chilled. What does this mean? An hour in the fridge will do the trick. Don’t have an hour? Try a bucket of ice with a bit of water to expedite the process. Or, you can take your chances putting the bottle in the freezer in a pinch… The goal is to get the wine down to about 48-58 degrees. (Your fridge should be set for 38 degrees, so you’ll want your wine warmer than the bottle of beer you’ve got in there, too.)

So what’s the point of all this, you wonder? It has to do with the science behind wine and your palate to create an optimal balance of fruit, acidity and tannin. Suffice to say, white wines benefit from chilling because the fruit (and it’s ripe sweetness) comes forward to complement the acidity they exhibit. You may have noticed that if your glass of white gets too warm, the alcohol becomes more dominant. On the flip side, a white served too cold masks all flavors and aromas. They can taste utterly bland (the same is true for rose – danger!). Sparkling wines additionally benefit from the chill because the carbon dioxide release slows down, allowing the flavors to dance a bit longer via the bubble streams you see in your glass. When red wines are served too warm, the tannin gets exaggerated, the fruit diminishes and the wines taste hot, or alcoholic.

Think you’ve got the 411 now to beat the heat? What’s your experience with wine temperature?

food & wine, a river, a park, some bands and a good cause

Friday, June 27th, 2008 by Rebecca

Romance is half the fun in the world of wine. Every movie is chalk full of great imagery, enticing viewers to hit the riviera and sip a cool glass of rose, picnic on a hilltop overlooking the vineyard below, or dance around barefoot in a great big vat of grapes. Music and terroir are always part of the equation, too.

If you thought you couldn’t live a romantic food/wine life in the Boston suburbs of Medford/Somerville, here’s your chance to test the theory! This Saturday from noon to seven the Mystic River Music Festival will bring together all the necessary ingredients for a fabulous afternoon – and all the proceeds from your snacking and imbibing will go towards a great cause, the Mystic River Watershed Foundation.

I spoke with Brian Lamb, full-time owner of Our Glass Wine Co. on Route 1 and part-time mastermind behind this great event. It seems that the Condon Shell (a Medford mini Hatch Shell venue, if you will) was the inspiration behind the event. A long-time lover of the site, Lamb approached Mayor McGlynn with the idea to use the Condon Shell for an afternoon of entertainment. McGlynn was more than happy to get on board. The Shell had been recently re-acquired by the city of Medford and McGlynn had hoped to bring music and the arts back to Medford. This was a perfect opportunity.

The event will feature music from local bands, grilled fare provided by Whole Foods, crafts by local artists, and other local vendors committed to all things Green. Perhaps most noteably (from my perspective), the wines on offer will all be organic selections…. and there are some TRULY phenomenal ones in the mix.

Here’s a quick preview of just three of the many wines available on Saturday:

2007 Jelu Torrontes ~ Everyone knows Argentine Malbec. Well… Torrontes will have the same U.S. following as the leading white wine varietal coming from that part of the world soon enough! Not bitter at all (as some Torrontes can be) this wine is the PERFECT summer sipper. It offers gorgeous ripe fruits, healthy acidity and a nice medium body allowing it greater food pairing versatility. A welcome treat. The Cafe Europa team is responsible for bringing this little number to the event’s wine roster.

2007 Mas de Gourgonnier Rose ~ If you’ve tasted the standard red Mas de Gourgonnier (in the crazy, ‘fat’ bottle with the long neck) you know you’re in for a treat with this rose. This vineyard has been making organic wines before organic was “in”. And this rose is one of the best out there. It offers fabulous summer strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, but is refreshingly crisp and dry (as all great rose should be). A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault and Cab, it can hold up to serious BBQ magic, too. Ideal Wine Imports are responsible for bringing this to a store near you and will be donating this selection to the event.

2005 Vinos Pinol Sacra Natura ~ This is a red wine blend from the Terra Alta region of Spain (near Priorat, south of Barcelona) where the soil lacks optimal nutrients; this causes the vines to ‘work harder’ and results in fewer bunches but more concentrated fruit. The Sacra Natura in particular hails from a vineyard boasting 95 year old vines (read: even more concentrated fruit). A robust blend of Cariñena, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Syrah and Tempranillo, this wine does not hold back. Ole Imports & Ruby Wines will be donating this bad boy.

Rain or shine, the Condon Shell should be your local event stop this weekend!

So, what are you waiting for? Do you plan to be ‘romanced’ in Medford?

Embracing your own palate: Rethore vs. Vaynerchuk

Wednesday, June 25th, 2008 by Rebecca

I alluded earlier this week that my take on the 4 wines Gary Vaynerchuk tasted out at the Boston Book Signing/Wine Tasting event (to air tomorrow, June 26) was a bit different than Gary’s. This doesn’t mean either Gary or I is “right” or “wrong”. Wine Tasting is an individual sensory experience so much so that there are no strike outs in Wine Tasting. Rather… this is where the fun truly begins!

I’ve decided to post my own tasting notes for the wines at the event for the sake of helping any skeptical readers embrace this idea. If you weren’t able to attend, I hope you’ve had enough time to go out and purchase/taste the wines for yourself! If not, I encourage you to do so and then return for a little look-see at what I have to say about them.

For those of you who just can’t help yourself and want a preview of my own insights, I’ve composed my notes with a touch of flourish – much like you might see on a “shelf talker” or on the back of the bottle. And I think it is worth restating that for me, the context of the wine really matters. Knowing more about the “behind the scenes” of where/why/how (etc.) the wines were produced influences my appreciation of them.

So without further ado…

2007 Vina Aljibes White

Albacete, Spain (Castilla la Mancha)

This delightfully surprising wine is a luscious blend of Sauvignon Blanc (84%) and Chardonnay (14%). In the glass it is a light golden color and offers an intriguing bouquet of creamsicles. On the palate the Chardonnay blend contributes creamy, almond flavors while its greater partner, Sauvignon Blanc, offers refreshingly crisp, citrus fruit. Easily enjoyed on its own, the Aljibes white’s fruitiness, medium-full body and mouthwatering acidity also makes it a food-friendly selection. Pair with poultry, fish or grilled veggies seasoned with olive oil, garlic and lemon.

2007 Vina Aljibes Rosé

Albacete, Spain (Castilla la Mancha)

The Aljibes rosé is made from 100% Syrah grapes, not Granacha like many of its counterparts throughout Spain. It is made from free run juice that only sees three hours of skin contact. Immediately you notice the watermelon jolly rancher color of the wine and are intrigued by its earthy, rosy nose. Ripe strawberry fruit and subtle dry tannins grace the mid-palate. A lively, juicy finish completes this wine’s symphony. The Aljibes rosé pairs with just about any dish you can imagine and could very well be the perfect answer on a hot day.

2006 Sur de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon

Mendoza, Argentina

Sur de los Andes takes a risk in producing this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza, Argentina, an area better known for Malbec. As it opens, aromas reminiscent of a recently trodden damp, forest floor lift from the glass, followed by hints of leather and cooking spices. Ripe blackberries emerge on the mid-palate and are followed by a juicy, peppery finish. Seeing only four months in oak, this is a medium-bodied Cabernet that delivers a more refined result than one might expect. Pair with red meats or even grilled eggplant and portabella mushrooms.

2005 Palacio Quemado “PQ”

Ribera del Guadiana, Spain

The 2005 PQ is another 100% Syrah selection on this flight, but this is no rosé! This wine is a striking, deep violet color. The nose immediately delivers distinct, sweaty saddle and herbal aromas. Blackberries and other red fruits fill your mouth and dance on your tongue as the benefits of six months in French oak impart just a touch of mocha and an alluring, full body. The finish has just a kick of spice. Pair with hard cheeses, lamb or BBQ fare.

Survey says…? What’s your take on the wines? Any favorites on the wine flight?

Viva the Unusual Vinos! Gary V came, saw & tasted…

Monday, June 23rd, 2008 by Rebecca

Last Thursday night 150 some odd Gary Vaynerchuk friends, fans and wine lovers attended his Boston Book Signing and Thunder Show tasting event at the Hotel Commonwealth downtown. The event certainly brought “the Thunder” featuring: a live filming of Thunder Show episode #494; a chance to meet Gary V while picking up a signed copy of his book; and – most impressively – a sample taste of the wines reviewed during the show. Attendees then headed downstairs to the Foundation Lounge for a special welcome cocktail, appetizers and their choice of libation (with wines from the show once again available at the bar).

I must admit, though everyone gasped or groaned when Gary rated the wines between 86 points and 90 points, I was pretty impressed with the wines selected for the show given the regions that produced them. Four solid wines each having at least one unusual characteristic (hence the theme “Unusual Suspects”) were on the wine flight. Vinha Alijibes winery in Albacete, Spain (Castella la Mancha region) took care of two of the wines, one a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend and one a 100% Syrah rose.

What makes these selections so unique? First of all, Castilla La Mancha isn’t one of the foremost wine making regions in Spain. You’re probably more familiar with Rioja, Ribadera del Duero or Penendez (where Cava comes from). Second, when it comes to varietals used in each of these wines, these winemakers are definitely putting themselves out there. While Chard is a grape that can grow pretty much everywhere (albeit infrequently in Spain), Sauvignon Blanc is more often produced in the Loire Valley, California and New Zealand. As for the rose, Tempranillo and Grenacha are the dominant red grape varietals in Spain, with Grenacha often used for their rosado (rose) wines. Syrah is a relative new kid on the block in Spain and when used, is more often blended.

As for the reds, the 2006 Sur de los Andes Cab is, well… a Cab! From Argentina? Um, right. That’s the thing. Gary may have been a bit misleading on the show, but Argentina is better known for its Malbecs; Cab’s made there tend to really leave you wanting – a big glass of something else to wash away the green bell pepper flavors! At best, it is considered an ‘up and coming’ wine varietal there. But this Cab was a fan favorite among those that attended. And for $10, your near-impossible, under-$10-Cab search could end altogether.

Last but not least, the 2005 Palacio Quemado “PQ”, another 100% Syrah attempt by Spaniards, but this time the full figured red kind. This selection is from the Ribera del Guadiana region, another lesser known wine producing region in Northish-Western Spain that essentially overlooks Portugal.

After the show ended Gary asked the crowd the following question: Do you like 1) mangos, 2) escargo and 3) sliders from White Castle? If you answered “yes” to ALL THREE of those, then you have the same palate as Gary. I answered yes to only one, mangoes. But Gary and I certainly share a similar philosophy about wine: get out there and taste!

Here’s your “homework” then for this week: head out to The Wine Gallery or your local shop to pick up these wines. Taste them and then check out Gary V’s episode featuring them. I’ll post my own tasting notes later this week, too, for additional comparison. I’ll look forward to your comments!

More on the pink stuff!

Wednesday, June 18th, 2008 by Rebecca

Wine and FloralityA couple of weeks ago I was on deck pouring a “sippy sip” of four different wines. Since it was bloody H O T that week in Boston, it was only fair to choose wines that were thirst-quenching or perfect for grilled fare. A South African Chenin Blanc, an Italian frizzante-styled white, a Spanish rose, and an all-American Zin were on offer. The tasters enjoyed the Chenin more than any other selection but the Rose stirred up the most conversation….

When I posted last month about rose I spoke more about what it is (juice pressed from red grapes after short-lived skin contact, so as to impart a touch of color, body and texture) and what it is not (sugary sweet!). What I didn’t really get into is the myriad styles that exist. Between reps absolutely clamoring to sell the shop their rose wares before it is too late in the summer and the many conversations I had at the tasting a couple weeks back, I can’t help but go into more detail today.

Let’s start with the Spanish rose offered at the tasting because it goes against the grain by blending in white wine, too (egad!). Typical to the Rioja region’s approach to rose, the Muga Rosado 2007 is a blend of Grenacha, Viura (a white varietal famous in the region and often used in Cava production) and Tempranillo. The wine sees about 12 hours of contact with the grape skins, resulting is a distinctly salmon color. It also is aged in wooden vats for 25 days (another Rioja/Spanish characteristic, as they are the country most famous for oak application), which contributes a touch more oomph to the wine and a certain toastiness, too. The addition of Viura is no doubt where this wine achieves its subtle tropical fruit flavors and aromatics.

Next, let’s venture to France, a region well known for it’s rose. I tasted Louis Chave’s 2007 rose of Pinot Noir and it knocked my socks off! This wine is classified as a Vin de Pay d’Oc (or table wine). Perhaps because of this designation, I couldn’t dig up more about this intriguing, delicious wine – so I’ll stick to it’s flavor profile and encourage others who might know more on its context to comment below. A light watermelon color, this wine has a gently, “dusty”, floral nose. It is in the French style, so beautifully dry, offering simple red berry fruit flavors, just a touch of tannin and subtle, food-loving acidity. Bottom line: this wine smelled and tasted like a pinot, but dialed it back a touch to rose levels of thirst-quenching, grilled chicken-loving, yumminess.

Traveling back to Spain – because this wine was that good and 100% rose of Merlot (very cool) – let’s head north to the Penedes region where Cava (Spanish bubbly) is king. The 2007 Avinyo Vi d’Agulla Rose was quite a charmer. It had a beautiful, rosey, Merlot nose. There’s no other way to describe it; it just smelled like Merlot should! On the palate, it tasted like the winemaker had put rose pedals and strawberries together in the blender and then liquified them into a refreshing, slightly bold libation. This wine had terrific balance (neither fruit, nor tannin, nor acidity overwhelmed more than it should). But what I liked most about it was that it was dry but offered a refreshing crispness, and was completely worthy of a pairing with bolder meat dishes.

Hopefully this quick sampling of rose styles is enough to wet your whistle and send you heading for your local wine shop! If you are wary to experiment, start simple: pick a wine from your favorite region of the world, or your favorite grape, (or both, if you can find one!) and go from there.

Have you tried a rose before? What’s your pick this year?