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Archive for July, 2008

just a little ‘squeeze’!

Wednesday, July 30th, 2008 by Rebecca

A couple of Wednesdays ago we talked about minerality and I promised to return to the topic of acidity, in terms of why it may/may not really matter. To simplify things for you in an already busy world, here’s a quick excerpt to refresh your memory re: the basics on acidity:

If you smell a wine and your mouth waters, you are detecting acidity in the wine. If you take a sip and detect a bit of a tingling sensation on your tongue and/or the inside of your cheeks start to water, you’re also in the money. Acidity heightens the flavor of foods, or makes the wine more “food-friendly” (and also helps it age). This is a great thing, so long as the wine offers complementary amounts of fruit and tannin to balance the acidity present. This is also described as a wine where all the major components (acidity, fruit and tannin) are in balance. Too much acidity and you’ll experience a razor blade slicing through the center of your tongue. Not my idea of a good time….

Wait… what was that? Acidity actually heightens the flavors of foods? How can something sour be a good thing?!

Case in point: A couple of years ago I had the great pleasure of making a trip to Cyrpus, a small island in the Mediterranean. I had been to the south of Spain earlier in my life, but this trip really allowed me to experience the Mediterranean culture and cuisine because I was staying with my friend’s family. I had a unique opportunity to enjoy the best homecooking and the freshest (of already fresh) fruits and vegetables. Because these ingredients were so juicy on their own, salad took on a whole new meaning. There was no need for even their amazing olive oil to dress it. A squeeze of lemon became our daily marinade – for EVERYTHING. The acidity in the lemon simply enhanced the flavors of the already lushiously delicious flavors of each dish. I live in a lemon-enhanced, dressing free universe to this day.

Remember when it comes to wine I also mentioned the major components of wine need to be in harmony. You want the red, white, pink or bubbly stuff to have enough fruit or other layers of flavors as well as enough dryness (tannin) to complement one another. If acidity is doing the right two-step in your glass, you’ll be transported to a higher level of sensory experience, particularly where your food pairing is concerned.

How so? When you pair a wine with higher acidity with foods of a similar profile, the two produce a sweet result. Think of Italian fare and wine. Chianti (made largely from the Sangiovese grape) pairs well with red sauces or tangy cheeses like Fontina. Or think of that Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand paired with grilled veggies dressed in just a squirt of lemon juice. The veggies taste even sweeter and the wine loses some of that acidic bite it has on its own. I love rubbing a wedge of lemon on my corn on the cob, too. No need for butter at my table!

How does acidity play out in terms of various wines? Generally speaking, cooler climates producer crisper, more acidic wines. Think of the grapefruit flavors that often thrive in your glass of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, for example. Certain grape varietals are also naturally high in acid. Through different processes (the specifics of which we’ll save for another day) winemakers can manage acidity during winemaking. This is particularly important for grape varietals that are high in acid, like Sangiovese.

I admit I’m not knowledgeable about the physical or chemical science behind why acidity is such a flavor-enhancer. So if you’re a science wiz or everyday food nerd who can give us the skinny, please comment below! Otherwise, I’m happy to just know from experience that there is only truth to this fabulous phenomenon.

What’s your experience?

arts and crafts

Monday, July 28th, 2008 by Rebecca

I’m going to break with tradition today and start from the bottom up (i.e. with my question of the day): What do you do with your corks?

I started out with a drawer, moved on to a fish bowl, supplemented with a giant, glass brandy snifter and – as of this weekend – have upgraded to a serious, 18″ high, glass mason jar. When I started saving my corks several years ago, I saved them because I wanted to remember certain bottles of wine I quite enjoyed. Then it became a habit and all corks became part of my collection. Then when I was on the wine trail out west, my brother and I started asking for corks at the various wineries we visited. Once we even found a bag of them hidden somewhere and he proceeded to take handfuls of them off their hands and stuff them into my decent sized hand bag. That’s when I knew I had crossed over.

Now that I’m in the industry professionally, I have the idea that I’ll soon be equipped to make cool things with my corks. I have need for new trivets, for example. I also could use a 3″ x 4″ door mat, a message board, a serving tray, some coasters…. the list could go on endlessly. My challenge is two fold, however. First, I lack the creative genes my nieces are so lucky to have. When it comes to arts & crafts, I’m not at all endowed; (I even struggle with food presentation, which is a talent I really wish I had given my passion for food/entertaining). Second, I’m not yet at the point where I have enough corks (frighteningly) to make more than one item. A girl can only drink so much!

Peering around on-line here and there overtime, I’ve bookmarked some pretty cool cork art/stuff. Check out Fistera Studio to see how they managed the rug. Or pay a visit to Gabriel Wiese’s website to see what he’s managed! Furniture… who knew? The possibilities truly are endless for the creatively enabled. The only item I’ve ever managed was a cork wreath for my brother (same one referenced above), and it now hangs in his home wine cellar (I appreciate his priorities!). I wish I had a picture. That wreath is probably a foot in diameter and took me about 5 hours to put together using wire (wrapped around each cork) and two needlepoint hoops. My fingers were fairly raw afterwards from working the wire.

I’m not sure why I’m so happily obsessed with my corks. Perhaps it is because they are a dying tradition? Perhaps it is because they each have a story? I’m not going to over-think it, as I’m apt to do being a Virgo and all. Suffice to say, if you’re in the Boston area and know of some cool places I can go to pick up a cork item or two, I’d appreciate your comments!

Oh, Canada!

Friday, July 25th, 2008 by Rebecca

Hailing from the Southwest originally, my family was more likely to head across the border to Mexico for vacation than trek northward. And yet now that I’m living in Boston and the Canadian border is not terribly far away, I’ve never been. That’s not to say I haven’t heard of the wonderful wines they are producing – particularly their ice wine. Yes, note the operative words: “heard of”. From what I understand, it’s impossible to buy Canadian wines here in the US. I’m not sure if this is just wrapped up in legalities on either side of the border or if there just isn’t enough wine to go around. Perhaps a little of both.

Needless to say, it seems Canada is a sneaky, sleeping giant when it comes to wine. In the western most region of the country, British Columbia, they experience a climate much like our own Washington State. Lake Okanagan keeps winter freeze at bay and otherwise there are parts of BC that are so dry it could be considered a desert. The summer temperatures are much more reasonable than you might expect and, in fact, allow some great early-ripening grape varietals to thrive. Not to mention the fact the acidity in their wines are destined to be high – yea refreshing, clean, wines (think New Zealand)!

On the other side of the country Ontario is an ever up-and-coming region in itself. Ice wine (aka “liquid gold”) is a guarantee every year. It is a semi-continental climate in those parts, with fantastic support (i.e. more temperate conditions) offered by the vast lakes in the region. Vines do surprisingly well, particularly those producing varietals like Riesling. Pinot Noir is considered a grape with great potential in the Price Edward county, where limestone soil is a natural partner for the Pinot family.

Why is Canada on my radar today, this News/Events/Trends Friday? Well, Wines & Vines reported this week the Canadians are banding together to get their wines ready for export. They don’t produce much, but what they do produce is noteworthy. They are eager to become more of a player on the international wine stage.
Check out the article to learn the latest first hand.

What’s your knowledge of Canadian wines? Have you been so lucky to have a sip?

storing wine, a few tricks of the trade

Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008 by Rebecca

A question I field at almost every tasting I conduct is… “how long can I ‘save’ my leftovers”? This is a great question and one I don’t mind answering again and again because I keep learning new things through trial and error myself. I’ll report on a couple of basics first and then give you a story from my recent experiences to provide a little perspective, too.

1. Always store leftovers in the fridge, red, white, pink or bubbly! The cold climate in your icebox helps the wine’s components remain fresh and lively.

2. It’s worth investing in a cheap-o Vacu-Vin pump. Yes, I said it. For a few dollars, you can pick up a plastic wine pump that will give your wine remarkable ‘life’ if combined with fridge time. It comes with a couple of bottle stoppers specifically designed to collaborate with the pump and suck the air out of your wine bottle. This prevents the wine from getting stale or, worse, completely oxidized (depending how many days it’ll be hanging out with your milk carton).

NOTE: Bubbly requires a special champagne stopper; it has little arms that clamp down on the top of the bottle to prevent the cork from popping out. You will not be able to pump out the air of this bad boy (or you’d pump out the wine’s bubbly mojo), but it will give you another day or so in the fridge.

CULINARY TIP: Left over champagne is particularly fabulous if you are cooking any kind of fish, shelfish or otherwise. Put a little bit of the bubbly in the skillet to sear your shrimp and you won’t need an ounce of butter. I’ve done this even when the near-empty bottle has been in my fridge for weeks and had a good result. Give it a go!

The “experts” say that if you simply leave a bottle in the fridge with the cork tucked deeply in the neck (no pumping) you can drink the wine fairly reliably the next day. (White) wines that are higher in acidity (like Sauvigon Blanc) will hold up better and longer, too. (Red) wines with more tannin tend do better as well. Those components in wine act as the backbone of the wine and allow it to age (while in the bottle). Once open, those components help the wine ‘stay together’ or stay fresh and tasty, if you will.

My opinion is this – with pumping out your wine, you can do very well for several days if not weeks. No joke. It depends on the type of wine, of course. But I have found (mid-priced) well-made wines do surprisingly well. Case in point: late June I opened a bottle of Graham Beck’s 2007 Gamekeeper’s Reserve Cab. I only had a glass and a half or so and then pumped it out and fridged it, thinking I’d have company the next night to polish it off. Well, I ended up going out to dinner the next night. After that I had fish on the menu and opened a bottle of white, then it was the weekend and I was out again, etc. Eventually it was ten days later and I headed out of town for 4th of July for another week. Once home again I was in the mood for a glass of wine and remembered the Gamekeeper still in the fridge. I decided it was worth pouring into a glass and seeing what was what before just dumping it out and opening a new bottle. SUCCESS! The wine did remarkably well despite my neglect. The fruit was still full, the acidity intact and the dry tannins had mellowed a bit (bonus!). I was amazed – and thrilled – how well the wine held up after 2.5 weeks!

So let my little inadvertent experiment be a lesson to us all: don’t relegate a wine to “cooking” or “dumping” status before you’ve given it a quick taste. You may be SOL, but then you’re no worse off either, are you? Just make sure you give yourself half a chance and pump it out and get it on ice.

Have you had a wine life (longevity) surprise lately? What wine was it that held up beyond your expectations?

hidden treasure in a clear bottle with a green label…

Monday, July 21st, 2008 by Rebecca

Portugal as a wine-making country is just cool. First off, this little(ish) country west of Spain often gets recognition for its solid wines retailing for oh-so-delightfully low prices. Strangely, as the Euro creeps up and up, Portuguese daily sipping wine prices are staying pretty stable, too. Saude! Second, it sports the oldest appellation system in the world, with recognition for quality wine-producing in the Douro Valley beating France out by 200 years. Third, while everyone and their global brothers and sisters were trying to ‘compete’ with the French by cultivating native French varietals, Portugal stuck to its guns and continued to cultivate native varietals like Touriga Nacional (grape used in Port), Touriga Franca, Tinto Cao and Trincadeira, to name a few. Overtime the Portuguese wine-making community discovered many of its native varietals could be made into solid table wines, rather than just fortified, dessert wines. And here we are in 2008 benefiting left and right….

One of my go-to wines this summer is the 2007 Quinta da Alorna Arintho. Never heard of Arintho? Not to worry! You’re in good company. And fortunately you have me here at Pour Favor to give you the skinny on this versatile, food-friendly, palate-loving white wine.

The ‘experts’ say (and I have a hard time not agreeing) Arintho is one of the varietals in Portugal with a large potential for the production of quality wine. The grape originates from Bucelas, not too far from the capitol city of Lisbon. The Quinta da Alorna take is made from 100% Arintho grapes, so you’re getting as authentic an experience as you can, particularly if this is your first try of Arintho. The nose is immediately enticing. It delivers fresh and fruity flavors as soon as you dive in, too. It’s tough to put your finger on, admittedly, but I always get pear, white peaches and wet stones. My fellow sipping companion last night picked out cantelope (I got noth’n on that one), grapefruit, and lychee fruit (good call). The palate is fairly weighty – perhaps best described as “creamy, citrus goodness” – with flavors of mineral, pink grapefruit and a touch of pear nectar.

Suffice to say, if you’ve been enjoying your Vinho Verde, dole out the extra $2 and give yourself a real Portuguese treat! Find yourself the Quinta da Alorna Arintho. And quickly. I’m liable to scour the city for every remaining bottle.

What’s your Portuguese go-to white this summer?