Last Thursday night I was not on my usual perch watching the (second) most amazing ALCS comeback in history. “Why not?”, you ask, shocked this Red Sox fan was elsewhere…. I was attending an intimate wine dinner at (the new) L’Espalier hosted by ViniPortugal.

I would not have traded the opportunity for one moment. Much like the Red Sox game, I had my own uniquely amazing evening, learning more about the ‘nerdier’ side of Portuguese oenology, tasting an array of wines and bending the ear of Portugal’s most revered (and perhaps most delightful) winemaker.

Many Americans think of Portuguese wines (beyond Port) simply as bargain, quaffing wines. Not bad, but not necessarily noteworthy or particularly complex either.  When I received my invitation to last week’s event, I was thrilled at the opportunity to meet Nuno Cancela de Bareu, Portugal’s leading Winemaker and Consultant, and learn more about what ViniPortugal is up to these days. My experience (re)tasting about 12 wines – red, white, sparkling and dessert – only reconfirmed what I’ve known for sometime: Portuguese wines are worth seeking out.

Let’s start at the beginning, shall we?

Nuno Cancela de Abreu is perhaps Portugal’s primary, modern-day wine pioneer. He studied in both Portugal and France, ultimately receiving his degree in viticulture and enology from the Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Lisbon. He spent six years in the Duoro region, influencing the modern production of Port and Douro wines. Next, he planted a new vineyard on family land in the Dao and, as a result, launched two brands (Quinta da Giesta and Quinta Fonte do Ouro). Somehow he simultaneously managed Quinta da Romeira in the Bucelas region and single-handedly brought the wonderfully floral, minerally and fruity indigenous grape Arinto into its own. Thereafter he revolutionized Quinta da Alorna’s operation in the Ribatejo region. Nuno’s passion is to transform Portuguese wines (and their reputation) into fine, internationally recognized and coveted selections. And, in my humble opinion, the world should be grateful for it! He is well on his way.

Nuno was asked to introduce the group to several of his favorite Portuguese selections – not necessarily his own wines – available in the Boston market. The list of wines on offer are too long to discuss in great detail in this single post, so I’ll simply list a few now and then spend some time here and there over the next months talking about various offerings in greater detail. Are you ready?

Whites

’07 Quinta de Catralvos Lisa (a lovely, fleshy, floral and clean Moscatel)

’07 Deu la Deu (aka “Muros Antigos” in Boston) Alvarinho (same as Albarino in Spain – wonderfully rich peaches and apricots, with a touch of bite)

’07 Quinta da Murta Arinto (it says Bucelas, the region, on the label, but this is 100% intensely floral and minerally Arinto – don’t be confused!)

Reds

’04 Casa de Santar Rsv  (a blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca – soft, fine tannins and redberry fruits)

’06 Quinta do Coa ( a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Franca – one I had forgotten how much I enjoy, offering great floral aromas, dark fruits, some soft, caramel oak flavors and terrific spice)

’05 Cartuxa Rsv (Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alfrocheiro – this is a big food wine, offering fabulous dried plumb and raisin fruit aromas and flavors, spice and a subtle, lasting finish)

Bubbly

’07 Luis Pato Espumate Rose (this is 100% Baga, gently bubbly raspberries and strawberries!)

Dessert

Andresen 20 Yr. Tawny Port (who doesn’t want hazelnuts, toffee and dried fruit flavors from their Tawny?!)

At the dinner Nuno gave us a rundown on the various regions in Portugal, how the climate and terroir impact the viticultural conditions that allow certain varietals to thrive, et. al. (Yes, I was in my happy place, gleefully unaware what was happening up the street at Fenway!) The thing to remember is Portuguese wines are made of native grape varietals – like those outlined above – you’ve likely never heard of. Don’t think of that as intimidating or too foreign. Winemakers are following Nuno’s lead, making these foreign-sounding wines approachable in the way they taste. The fact that our economy is so tough right now and the price of these wines is still amazingly “right” for the time being makes this a great place to explore. Much like the Languedoc in France offers a better price point for winelovers of the Southern Rhone (because these wines are less sought given historical winemaking practices), Portugal offers value wines that are complex, interesting and – delicious!

At the start of the evening Marcio Ferreira of ViniPortugal told us his organization’s goal is to reinforce a favorable image of Portuguese wines. In speaking with Nuno, I learned just how tightly-knit their community is; fortunately, innovation, forsight and exceptional winemaking like Nuno’s makes Marcio’s job that much easier. They are all in it together!

Want to see for yourself? Head over to the Harvard Club tomorrow night and then report back your own findings by commenting below!

Perhaps like you, earlier this week I learned the father of Pinot Noir in Oregon, David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards, passed away at the young age of 69.

If you’re familiar with the book Judgement of Paris or recently caught the Indie Film “Bottle Shock” you know a few Americans in the ’70s went “to the mattresses” to prove the quality of New World wines, as compared with those in the Old World.  The story of their dramatic debut on the world’s wine stage is noteworthy for many reasons. But first, in my mind, is what had to happen before they took their wines overseas. First they had to have the fire in the belly and the chutzpa to act: pioneers who took great risk in what Was Done and what was Not Done, to give birth to a much larger, global and hugely profitable industry.

David Lett was one of these men. In 1970 he and his wife planted the first Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir vines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon. (Today many of you appreciate the Willamette as the top Pinot Noir-producing region in the Pacific Northwest.) Just nine years later Lett showed his ’75 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir in Paris at the Wine Olympiad, earning top praise and notoriety. The next year he did the same in Burgundy.

Today the rest is history, with 300 wineries in the Willamette alone producing tasty Pinot offerings. They pay homage to “Papa Pinot” Lett. And so should we all this sad week in particular. Appropriately, Mr. Lett’s sons Jim and Jason (now lead in the fields and in the cellar) and his wife Diana plan to celebrate his life after the fall harvest.

What’s your experience with Eyrie or Oregon Pinot? How are you taking this week’s news?

I spend a lot of time in the shop hanging out in our Argentine/Spanish section. Not only do our customers gravitate to that area, but I found my first bottle of love from a non-US producer in that aisle: (Altos de las Hormigas) Malbec.

I was hesitant to talk about Malbec in my mini series, Wines for Fall, because there are other grape varietals (e.g. Petite Verdot, Petite Sirah) that are lesser known and lesser consumed, but no less worthy of our attention this time of year. But I realized there was no real reason to keep my personal favorite off the list – and at least once a week I introduce a customer to a bottle of Malbec, so that proves there are still some grasshoppers out there who need to know of this magical varietal!

Malbec is THE Argentine (red) grape of mass export to the US. (I tried to find the exact figure to back this up, but was unable to do so! Please feel free to comment below if you know the answer…). When I was first introduced to Malbec some years ago it was considered an ‘up and coming’ project in Argentina. The vines were still young (not that they aren’t still now, but every year helps!) and so lacked depth, concentration and, key word, ripe berry fruit. The wines tended toward the more vegetal, or “green” flavor profile as a result. As a new wine-exporting/producing nation, there also existed a natural lack of funding, interest (from winemakers and consumers across the globe) and modern technology. These facts could make finding truly phenomenal Malbec a bit more of a challenge. In just the last 10-15 years or so however, the funding is there, Mendoza is better known and appreciated for its happy climate to grow Malbec, and even curious winemakers from all over the world are happy to jump on a plane and get in the fray.

The result? Malbecs of many shapes and sizes are in the US market offering a range of tremendous flavor.

I find it thrilling to help others navigate this range of possibilities. The undercurrant to Malbec tends to be: dark fruits (like the plumbs or blackberries you often find in Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot); spice (sometimes simply black pepper, other times more exotic spices you may play with in the kitchen); earth (think outdoors, woodsy, wet soil or even a touch of saddle leather); gentle grip (not too dry, but evident tannin); and solid acidity (mouthwatering & food-friendly). What makes each (good, non-vegetal or bell-pepper tasting) Malbec fun to expore is which of these elements is/are more evidant and – most important – what role the winemaker has played in coaxing a truly lushy, soft, velvety (or not) mouthfeel.

I’ve come to know and love the softer, lusher Malbecs (Melipal makes a great example); the earthier style (I’m a fan of Nieto Rsv Malbec); or the berry-forward, unreserved, slightly more rustic basic level offerings like Altos las Hormigas (their Reserva is definitely bigger, bolder and more lush than their $10/bottle offering).

As for the Fall connection? Let’s turn to food pairings, of course! But, wait, what’s my rule of thumb on this again? Look to the culture from whence the wine came! So, let’s also not forget Argentines consumes a LOT of beef. Throw that herb-encrusted steak on the grill and, well, I think your inner child will have no choice but to emerge. Then again… anything on the grill makes Malbec a great choice. Whenever I host a BBQ, I have a case on hand. Malbecs are approachable yet intriguing and ever-so worthy of grilled fare.

What’s your favorite Argentine Malbec of choice? Or do you head to France, where this grape got its start, for a Cahors selection?

Ok, so it isn’t really spelled that way…. But it certainly makes me want to run out and get some! Zweigelt, that is, a little Austrian red wine goodness that’s perfect for this time of year.  (It’s said Z-vye-gelt, if my title was of no use to you this delightful, holiday Monday!)

What? Austrian wine? WHAT?!

Yes. Austria! I’m too young (if I do say so for myself) to really remember the (drinking) days when Austrian wine was a horrifying “No, No” – and, frankly, my experience with Austrian gastronomy has only been pure pleasure. (Who doesn’t love herb-encrusted game? Cured meats? Hard cheeses? And delicious, oh-so-delicious, sweets!) I think of the Alps, the fascinating history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and those fine foods before I recall Austria has had its sad disaster of a period in modern wine making history.

To refresh your memory, Austria used to be known for its sweet wines. Things only got tricky in 1985 when a group of corrupt wine brokers tried to salvage poor harvests by adding diethylene glycol (found in antifreeze, no joke…) to the wines to increase the sweetness and then, worse, sell these wines as legit for a decent profit. I think NOT! Well, it didn’t work out so well for these greedy businessmen; but it did ultimately work out well for serious winemakers. Austria can now boast the strictest wine laws in the world. And that’s saying something when you recall the restrictions offered up in France and Italy, for example.  It also allowed serious winemakers to refocus their energies on making truly fabulous, dry wines.

Austria may still churn out 80% white wines (Gruner Veltliner is the major player on the white stage), but their reds are something to behold, too. Zweigelt is a test tube baby, or a man-made hybrid of St. Laurent (Austrian clone of Pinot Noir) and Blaufrankish. Why man-made? Well, Pinot Noir/St. Laurent is a tricky, tricky grape to grow because it is so delicate and, therefore, suseptible to so many different vineyards pests (bugs and birds alike), climatic challenges (frost, heat, hail, etc.) and even the human touch.  Zweigelt is less prone to frost, bud-breaks later and becomes a more mature fellow (ripens) earlier in the season. This is a godsend in Austria where the weather is a bit, shall we say… chilly?

Zweigelt is a white and red wine drinkers happiness. And it is perfect this time of year when you are thinking about the light fruitiness of Gamay (aka Beaujolais) and want something with a bit more character for both a warm day and cooler evening. The best part is that Austrian wines can be very reasonably priced – they do, afterall, have to redeem themselves in the global market!

If this is a new grape to you, try the Sepp Moser Zweigelt. It should retail for about 10 bones. It delivers cranberry and cherry fruit right up front and center stage. It can be a little on the tart side on the back palate and as it finishes, but I don’t mind it (and I usually do!). The flavors in this little wine gets me excited about fireplaces and Thanksgiving dinner to come!

Are you a Zweigelt lover? Have you gotten (back) on the Austrian wine bandwagon?

Everyone encounters random, sometimes juicy, sometimes humorous, sometimes head-scratching tidbits in their line of work.  Often enough these little gems are in one ear and out the other – or at least you move on to the next thing, filing that piece of information in some magical place in your brain. What we often take for granted is when these gems actually might have relevance, or interest for other people.

Case in point: I’ve been having a blast preparing for an upcoming, private wine tasting party where cool blends will be featured. A friend of mine met me for lunch mid-preparation and I was just bursting with excitement about this that and the other thing. (Finding out a wine’s story, or conjuring my own fantasies based on my gut reaction to tasting a wine is like catnip to me!)  At one point my friend looked at me with a smile playing on her lips and said: Well, if you ever forget the exact percentage of which varietal goes into the wine, you can always just look on the label!

I smiled at her practicality and then started to laugh a bit, too. I’ve learned this is a very American thought.

Turns out Americans are the ones who like to know the who, what, where, when and why of it all. Perhaps other cultures are similar. But my experience is this is distinctly American – and winemakers overseas go just batty with our concern with such details (when it comes to wine, anyway). If you’ve noticed, Old World producers aren’t quick to make a wine label particularly discerning in terms of which grape(s) actually went into the bottle. If anything, their wine laws somewhat prohibit giving up the goods, if you will, preventing them from even putting the name of the varietal used in the wine if it comes from a certified area (e.g. AOC, in France).  (Labeling is actually a total nightmare given all of the moving parts and import/export regulations that vary globally.)

With the American movement to find out every bloody ingredient in everything you consume, winemakers will have their work cut out for them. I mean, most people don’t realized that fining/filtering a wine is often done with egg whites, let alone all of the other scientifically orchestrated additives that go into creating a stable wine. (I’ve got a sensitive stomach and I’m all for them given the alternative!)

Perhaps not a late-breaking news item for all of you, I realized this week perhaps more of you are like my wine-drinking friend out there and haven’t heard the latest in wine labeling….  Bonny Doon announced last January it was coming clean. They are listing all of the ingredients in two Demeter certified wines they now produce.

Will Boon Doon start a new trend in wine labeling? Or is it time to put away the magnifying glass and just enjoy the juice?