A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a rare treat in the larger wine world, particularly here in North America: Pineau des Charentes. When I saw that Joe the #1 Wine Dude had expanded this month’s Wine Blogging Wednesday theme (maderized dessert wines) to include fortified wines, well, it was all I could do to hold off all reports on this fabulous little dessert/aperitif-perfect-for-apple-pie-or-in-front-of-the-fire-or-before-a-chic-meal find!

Pineau des Charetes is made from 2/3 unfermented must of fresh grapes and (drum roll please!) 1/3 COGNAC. This is my paradise.

Old wives tales (or perhaps actual history) has it this fun beverage was created by mistake. How so? Well, apparently a grower back in the 16th Century poured grape must (the juice, skins, stems…) into a barrel that already contained Cognac (brandy). The barrel was out of sight/mind for another 5 years or so until a huge harvest came in and additional barrels were needed. Soon enough, the concoction was discovered. The stuff tasted so darn good – fruity, sweet, yet lighter and not cloying in texture – the folks in Charentes, France perfected the process and began peddling it to eager consumers.

This aperitif thrills me for a number of reasons. First, it is a rare find here in the United States. Somehow, the masses have failed to catch on to the glory that is this sweet, little libation. Second, most producers have not chosen to make Pineau, considering it a mere byproduct of Cognac; they simply use Ugni Blanc grapes, which is also used in the production of Cognac. Among those who do make Pineau part of their repertoire, the best wines are made from the freshest (read: from field to barrel in a single day), hand-picked grapes. Only by hand-picking can they know the moment when full maturity is acheived, when the golden grapes turn to a deep topaz color and, for the red wines, when the black grapes turn from crimson to brown.

Pineau des Charentes is often found at 18% alcohol – the optimal level. It must remain in bottle for at least one year before it is sold (and often the best producers wait as much as five years before releasing it). As I alluded above, Pineau is offered in Or (white) or Ruby (red) varieties. In the case of the Ruby, Cabernet, Cab Franc or Merlot varietals are used.

If you’ve never enjoyed Pineau before or after a meal, please do. You are missing out! For those who don’t prefer overly sweet dessert wines, this should be a good fit. Pineau certainly can accompany a little pastry, tart, or ice cream dessert. But it is also delightful with foie gras, oysters, poached fish, goat cheese, Roquefort and even fine game. (Use your gut instinct on which – red or white – variety pairs best with each of these suggestions.) Just avoid consuming Pineau with any ’strong’ flavored sauces or dishes, even as simple as olives. It’ll taste a little funkity funk….

For Wine Blogging Wednesday I served the Domaine du Perat Or with apple pie two weeks ago. The fruits in the Perat were reminiscent of stewed peaches and ripe apricots. But it also offered a depth of flavors you’ll find reminiscent of cognac (burnt caramel nuttiness) – without the burn.  Serve chilled, for optimal flavors.

I’m curious how well received Pineau still is in France these days… do you know? If you’re from North America, is this post a throw back to days of old for you? Or is Pineau de Charentes a new one on you?

Ok, readers! Buckle up, because here IT is….

Over the weekend I was in NYC visiting my sister and some friends. Saturday night we headed out for a somewhat low-key night of good old fashioned catching up. After we wrapped up our meal, we decided to check out one of the 3 different wine bars that has popped up in my sister’s neighborhood in recent months. It was a great scene – low lighting, a phenomenally long, graceful bar, terrific bar snacks, a loungey thing going around us and in a back room….

But come on people, if you are going to be a wine bar, how about a little bit of diversity on your wine list?!

Let’s reflect: wine bars seem to be all the rage, cropping up like wildfires. Any good business person should know the key to success (in a saturated market) is doing something that sets you apart from the competition. I get that and embrace it. By nature the wine world is quite diverse, regionally, varietally, etc. so already proprietors should have quite a bit to work with. I simply do not understand why it seems so many wine bars are actually doing the same thing: offering a very narrow wine list and then pretending they don’t. It’s like going to a martini bar and only seeing one brand of gin (re: white wine) and two brands of vodka (read: red wine).

This particular bar started out on the right foot. Their initial list of wines was categorized as “Under $40″. That worked for me. There were a few red, white and bubbly options from around the world. But as soon as I turned the page, nearly all the wines listed were Italian. The “International Wines” section offered 5 wines total, 3 from Spain, 1 from Australia and 1 from France. It’s one thing if you are going to be an Italian Wine Bar. It’s another if you are going to mostly be an Italian wine bar and then pretend you’re not.

It drives me crazy! At least let me know what you are about at the outset and promote accordingly. Then I can make a decision on whether your scene makes up for the fact that I’m in a French wines mood and only Italians are on offer.

Harrumph.

Am I alone in this frustration? What are you hoping for from your “Wine Bar” experience?

I’ve scoured the wine mags to find something – an event, a headline, an image – anything in the wine world more compelling than this week’s elections for the next US President.

I was briefly entertained by The Cellarist article on “Wine States”. But as far as entertaining news or events in the wine world you might be interested in this post-Election Friday – in comparison – I am nonplussed. So rather than bring you some unenthusiastic post summarizing the latest in scientific wine news (like wine might prevent dementia or that Florida introduced a new table grape to the market) or talk about the latest in wine business/economics (e.g. the Chateau Montelena sale fell through this week), I’m going to give you the floor.

Whether you are happy, upset, hopeful or scared in the post-election days, I have a feeling you were drinking something Tuesday night. This is your moment, ye closet-blog readers! Tell us about your own private event on Election night, however large or small.

What were you drinking in anticipation of The End of An Era? (Bonus points given for those who were drinking something with a clever/thematic name; double points if your comment offers tasting notes, too.)

Stumbled across a wine lately that sang a familiar tune but offered  s o   m u c h   m o r e  than the same old same old?

I find this happens when I least expect it – and often enough when the grapes involved in the winemaking process are local, or native to the area from whence they’re grown.  We talked about Zweigelt from Austria not that long ago. We also talked about the fun I had at the ViniPortugal wine dinner I attended. Perhaps one day we’ll also talk about wines from Hungary.  Each of these parts of the world offer tremendous value and a chance to tromp, ok – taste, through local offerings you likely can’t pronounce. (Fortunately you don’t have to be able to say the grapes’ name to enjoy the wine!)

Today I want to introduce you to (or remind you about) a big white perfect for fall – or even one that can carry you through the winter! It is the (drum roll please!) 2007 Esporao Reserva White.  This wine makes me want to crank out pot after pot of butternut squash soup and pan after pan of roast chicken with fresh herbs (and garlic). The winemaker blends three grapes: Arintho (which you know I just adore for it’s fresh minerality); Roupiero; and Antao Vaz. Half of the grapes are fermented in stainless steel and the other half in American oak. When the winemaker is satisfied, all three are blended together. Remember that the Esporao enterprise operates out of the Aletejo region, which is in the Southcentral part of Portugal where it is dry and hot. Such conditions are perfect for growing ripe, ripe grapes. This means the fruit in the wine is front and center, doing a happy little dance in your glass.

From the Esporao Rsv White, expect peach and melon fruit, terrific minerality and a robust, full-figured wine with very round edges. You may even be tempted to think of this wine as a slightly more interesting Chardonnay, without overbearing oak but a creaminess that simply delights your taste buds.  Go ahead… step outside your usual wine-buying habits and pick up a bottle! This wine surely offers a fun spin on something comfortingly familiar.

What’s the last bottle you enjoyed for its familiarity – but complexity?

I realized it was time to get back in the Entertaining Saddle as soon as the Red Sox lost the ALCS. Football is great, don’t get me wrong, but we’re only talking about 2 days of Go Time each week. And with my favorite cooking magazine, Eating Well,  bursting with fall/harvest/pre-holiday recipes for easy entertaining, the only thing left for me to do was call up some friends.

Saturday night I laid out a feast. My guests were delighted with the Aged Mahon cheese (drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with thyme), sliced, marinated salami and mixed olives I set out to wet their appetites; they were equally intrigued by and happy with the Lambrusco I paired accordingly (sweet and salty are always a safe bet!). Meanwhile, I was putting the final touches on the main course in the kitchen – pork loin with roasted grape sauce. I’m not one of those entertainer types who has to know a recipe before I introduce it to my guests. I just give it a shot and see how it goes, pairing the wine I think best. Fortunately my friends are of a similar mind and so happy ‘guinea pigs’.

But when it comes to cooking with wine, sometimes recipes can be difficult to discern. The recipe for the grape sauce called for either Madeira or dry, white wine. Madeira is a fortified wine, with varying levels of sweetness and nutty characteristics. Dry, white wine is the exact opposite. Since I wasn’t exactly sure what the grape sauce would turn out like – a lighter but flavorful sauce or a rich gravy – making the decision was that much harder. I consulted with my fellow wine buyer. And he made a brilliant recommendation: use an old, dry white wine. Because old white wines develop a kind of richer, nuttier almost dessert-like quality due to excessive oxidation, I would essentially split the difference of the wine recommendations in the recipe. I unearthed a bottle of 2002 Sauvignon Blanc from a case of wine that had gotten lost in the bowels of the shop. And it was perfect!

While I extrapolated from the recipe to find a good answer, I still stand by the most important rule of thumb when it comes to cooking with wine. ONLY cook with wine you would be happy to drink, too. (In fact, I have a fabulous Birthday card on my fridge that reiterates the point perfectly. It says “I love cooking with wine…sometimes I even put it in the food!”. ) Did I taste the wine before I poured it into my sauce? Absolutely. Old wine won’t hurt you. And in the case of white wine, it just tastes sweet as it ages. Could I have had a glass? Sure! It was reminiscent of creme brulee, in fact. But we had my homemade apple crumble pie on hand for dessert so I passed this time….

What wine cooking conundrums have you encountered? How have you solved them?