Archive for January, 2009

winter wines uncorked: cinsault

Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 by Rebecca

Ever gone on a blind date and wondered where that person had been all your life? Ever see that person again and known they were exactly what you remembered – and somehow even better?

I first stumbled upon the red grape varietal Cinsault (said: Sin – So?) in its birthday suit (that is, 100% of it in one single bottle, all on its own, not playing just one part in the production) at a grand tasting event last Fall. It’s rare to see this varietal doing its own dance; more likely it’s one of many blended into wines from the South of France… one of those grapes you always hear about but are never fully sure what it contributes to the bigger picture. I mean, you can always turn to the Wine Pros to get the skinny, but I like to find these things out for myself, allow my own taste buds to take a grape for a test drive.

I have to admit, I wasn’t sure I’d ever (in the U.S.) have the opportunity to taste Cinsault all on its own. When I saw the ’07 Dom. des Terres Falmet Cinsault* on the tasting menu last fall, well, be still my heart! It was a blind date I was willing to go on. Back then, I found the nose to be absolutely lovely, offering ripe strawberry fruit and a gently rustic and lightly spiced character I could only describe in my notes as “baking spices” (the cinnamons, nutmegs, et. al. of the world). The texture was alluring, wrapping my tounge in flavors I wanted to taste again and again to fully decipher and appreciate. We decided to bring the wine into the store, in part because it was outstanding (for a great price) and in part because they really are so rarely bottled on their own. Definitely something fun to talk about with interested wine seekers and foodies.

What with the cold weather here in Boston of late, I’ve been on a mission for wines that really blanket my tongue and offer layer after layer of satisfaction. I want full. I want mouthfilling. I want more than quaffable, one-note wines to intrigue me (it’s too darn cold for this Phoenix girl living in New England to step outside everyday for a bit of adventure!). All the better if these wines come in a rare package. So I grabbed a bottle from the rack a couple of days ago to re-sample. After all, wines at a tasting are “work”. Wines at home are more often for “fun” – and have a greater context for appreciation.

The Falmet hit it out of the park again. I bought the shop’s last bottle last night (it’s on back order…) just to ensure I’d have back-up what with more hazardous weather likely before I can say W-I-N-E! This is an example of the benefit of trying varietals you may never have heard of (really) before. It is also an example of a superb wine experience I – in my pre-wine industry days – would never have sought without the trustworthy help of a Sommelier (at a restaurant) or a wine shop’s buyer.

In the New Year, I hope one of your resolutions is to  step outside your usual wine-drinking/buying box, and try something new. Even if you are an avid consumer and know your stuff, there is a LOT of juice on the market. Go on a blind date! Be enamored – or remember how great your other flings have been. In the coming weeks, I’ll do my best to find some more intriguing winter finds and share them with you.

What blind (wine) date(s) have you been on? Was it a do-over or a never-do-again?

*The Wine Lover review is solid (and I found their food pairing entertaining given my initial notes), but describes the 2006 vintage, not the 07 currently available.

a bit (more) on bubbly: marketing musings

Monday, January 5th, 2009 by Rebecca

Happy New Year! I hope you enjoyed a great bit of bubbly – whether Cava, Prosecco, Champagne, domestic sparkling or what have you – to ring in 2009. I have to admit, I’m a little sad the holidays are behind us. I did quite some damage enjoying bubbly from almost every wine-producing continent throughout December. And in so doing, I rejoiced in and fully celebrated just how great, food-friendly and versatile it is. My New Year’s resolution might just include drinking at least one bottle each month of the year (not necessarily by myself or all at once, mind you). Ah, yes… I like this idea!

What with all my bubbly enjoyment these last several weeks I couldn’t help but muse the Marketing Giant that is the word, the region, and the renowned sparkler: Champagne. Just think of it! No other wine region in France, or really elsewhere, has the panache that Champagne does. No other wine seems to have inspired so many other styles of or takes on sparkling. No other wine says “sophistication” like Champagne. How does such a small-production entity (only 12% of sparkling wine worldwide) manage to capture the hearts/minds of so many people worldwide?

The short answer is History. Champagne got its real start via endorsements from royalty. In one example, Cristal was actually created for Czar Alexander II of Russia 1876 by Louis Roederer. Back then Russia was one of the highest export markets for the House. Of course, when the Czar found out he was drinking the same bubbly as his court he was a little peeved. Cristal became a special bottling, so named for the special lead crystal bottle it was distributed in. Meanwhile, an emerging middle class seeking a taste of how the other half lived, became more active consumers (albeit, not of Cristal, per se). And so it goes… Today, we simply seek out satisfying Champagnes to toast (and sip).

As someone who appreciates and enjoys many of the offerings coming from throughout France (and elsewhere), I can’t help but wonder if any other region in the world will develop such a following. What will drive that new success? How about bizarre or clever tools now at play in the trade as a whole? Are they ‘enough’ to put a small producer or small producing region permanently on the map?

While I was contemplating this particular question, my stream-of-consciousness reminded me of a trade professional who tried to convince me of the marketability of aluminum last summer. I’m sorry to say, you may be able to drop the can of wine on the floor and merely dent it, but I don’t think this will be the next great thing. I can even subscribe to the box wine phenomenon because of it’s environmentally conscience and common sense-driven design. I’m largely a fan of screw caps. But aluminum? I’m sorry. No.

Over the holidays, my general musings about bubbly and marketing came full circle when I saw the biggest offender I’ve found on the market thus far: Francis Ford Coppola’s Sophia Blanc de Blanc “mini”s. While this may be the wine of choice for sweet wine-interested consumers, could we please not sell it in a “convenient” can? Come on. A straw? For bubbly? This just hurts my feelings. It hurts history/tradition. For heaven’s sake, there’s no cork to pop! It only gets points for being offensively American. (If I were Madame Clicquot, I would actually turn in my grave.) Gnarly sweet and over-worked to boot, this wine gets my lowest rating: Humph!

Do you agree? What wine (marketing) faux pas did you encounter last year?