Archive for May, 2009

Good old fashioned, mezmerizing Wine writing (and more)

Friday, May 15th, 2009 by Rebecca

Image credit goes to: http://seansummers.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/defaultI tried to write a novel a few years ago. Unfortunately I discovered I don’t have the patience to develop characters in that special way that sucks you in and devotes you to their trials and tribulations and celebrations as if they were your real-life friends. Any wine writer who can do that to me is Prime Rib, or perhaps more appropriately, a glass of truly tremendous Growers Champagne.

I’ve had the uncommon pleasure of “drinking” my Growers Champagne, if you will, at the pen of two different writers, given two very different wine context in the last week and a half alone.

The first are the fabulous duo from the Wall Street Journal, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher. True, this is not the first time I have sung their praises. But usually I talk about their content, not their writing style. This week I read just the first few lines of their article and had to save it for later – like a much anticipated dessert. If you have not yet read their “Rails, Romance and Really Good Wine” article, you must. Romance, indeed. I aspire to such greatness.

The second is Deborah Haro, of the absolutely amazing Taberna de Haro of Brookline. If you want a good read, simply get your hands on her wine list. There are other truly savory things about Taberna de Haro, but I’ll be getting to that in a future Wicked Local article. In the meantime, hussle over to Taberna to enjoy another tantalizing read (and meal!).

For those of you less interested in the romance of wine reading, but perhaps intrigued by broken hearts (or is that hearts rewarded? tough to say…) check out what Parisians have been up to to keep economically afloat. Bitter sweet, I suppose….

Which wine lists have you encountered that are simply a lovely read?

Chenin Blanc: the “other” blanc wine to know

Wednesday, May 13th, 2009 by Rebecca

Image thanks to: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.wineanorak.com/blog/uploaded_images/vouvray-784697.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wineanorak.com/blog/labels/Vouvray.html&usg=__euyG274PmrWV7UfqoW3esYR4qOI=&h=352&w=600&sz=29&hl=en&start=17&um=1&tbnid=dMZgxE175ui-kM:&tbnh=79&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcaves%2Bof%2Bvouvray%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1Requests for Sauvignon Blanc recommendations have been coming pretty steadily as the temperatures have gotten warmer this spring. What I rarely hear a request for is Chenin Blanc. Sure, I get a request for Vouvray, a French village known for Chenin Blanc among those who “know”, but Chenin seems more often overlooked by white wine seekers. Here’s the 411 on this great grape:

Recently I argued Albarino is the most versatile white wine; what readers found out was how terrifically versatile it is as a food wine. Chenin Blanc is perhaps the most versatile style of wine. It can be dry.  It can be sweet. And it can be still – or sparkling! Oh, the possibilities! It is also grown widely throughout the world, in the Loire Valley, France, South Africa and domestically in California.

The Loire Valley delivers my favorite Chenin Blancs. They have lovely stone fruits and citrus flavors – and a unique minerality I quite adore. But remember the French don’t always label their wines by varietal. So if you see “Vouvray”, “Savenniers,” or often “Saumur” (where  Charadonnay is the other white grape permitted), grab a bottle! Better yet, head on in to your local shop and ask for a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc to give a swirl.

“Steen” is another name for Chenin Blanc you may find on a bottle of South African Chenin. These wines have more tropical fruit flavors and a distinct ‘funk’ you will either love or hate. (Note: “Funk” is a great, acceptable wine term that describes a special character in a wine. Funk can range from barnyard-like characteristics to wet wool, which is the one you’re more likely to find in Chenin from South Africa. It’s a love/hate thing, truly. Best to try it for yourself and see if you’ve been missing out on the South African Chenin fun.)

Chenin Blanc from California typically comes across the tasting table in the form of a blend, like 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. These blends are enticingly fuller bodied, and offer dramatic floral aromas. Not too shabby in their own right!

Either which way you slice it, Chenin Blanc pairs well with goat cheese, fish, grilled chicken or many vegetarian dishes. Heck – they are brilliant on their own, too! My favorite hosts always have a bottle at the ready because they are so versatile and guest-friendly. But I also often characterize them as “porch guzzlers” – where friends are entirely optional. Some things are too good to share!

Which Chenin Blanc offerings are your favorites? Any particular country that makes your heart beat a bit faster?

May’s Wicked Wines Uncorked!

Monday, May 11th, 2009 by Rebecca

3 of May's Wicked (Good) WinesI can hardly believe it’s already the second Monday in May – and time to unleash this month’s Wicked Wines! These are some real treats to uncork through the ups and downs of the season change.

Buying Tip: If you can’t find the specific wines I suggest in your home market, consider the varietals (or blends) I’ve chosen and enlist your local wine buyer to make comparable recommendations.  These are some fun wines you won’t want to miss!

wine news worth making headlines

Friday, May 8th, 2009 by Rebecca

Climate Change? Image thanks to: http://watersecretsblog.com/archives/2008/01/scientists_pred.htmlWe’ve been fleshing out the topic of eco-friendly wines over the last few weeks. One different but related topic we haven’t quite gotten to yet is the impact of climate change on wine. Whether you are a “believer” in global warming or not, if you are a wine drinker you should be noticing some degree of change in the product you’ve come to know and love (no pun intended). For example, if you’ve been drinking Alsatian Pinot Gris for the last decade, you’ve probably noticed the wines are a bit fleshier and sweeter now than they were when you first tried them. That’s because the fruit has been getting riper….

Everything I’ve been hearing from winemakers, viticulturists and wine scholars alike suggests historically cooler regions, like England, will become hotbeds for winemaking. (One winemaker I met this week even joked they are considering purchasing land in Finland…) Ok, so maybe this move isn’t immediate, but it is on the radar of producers.

Wouldn’t you know, I saw in Decanter just yesterday  “London’s first commercial vineyard since medieval times has been planted.” Capel Manor Horticultural College is the’ man behind the curtain’ – and they are even hoping by 2012 they might have a little vino to boast. Go figure.

In domestic news, have you seen Murphy-Goode is pulling out the stops on their next marketing endeavors? If you are a wine nerd and super savvy in the arena of social media, this is your big opportunity to beat the recession. They have a new opening:  a 6 month marketing gig will land you $60K, plus perks.

Do you think I should apply for the Murphy-Goode gig – or are you their next hire?

H1N1… Wines?

Wednesday, May 6th, 2009 by Rebecca

mexico (wine) fevahOk. Bad joke. (I can’t take full credit as one of my best friends, fellow foodie and wine lover actually fed it to me.) What can I say? Sometimes a little levity is needed!And it was Cinco de Mayo yesterday….

Mexico is actually the oldest wine producing country in the New World. Who knew? (Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson, apparently. There are two full columns dedicated to Mexico in their most recent edition of the World Atlas of Wine.) I was intrigued – but not surprised – to learn the Spaniards got the ball rolling in the 1500s; but there was a significant interruption in 1699 when “the King of Spain banned new vineyards in Mexico, fearing competition to Spain’s wine industry, thus halting the development of a wine culture in Mexico for three centuries.” Egad! 3 C’s? No wonder no one really knows about Mexican wine – and the country is better known for tequila and refreshing cerveza.

It wasn’t until the 18th Century that vines started to get a little local love. Grenache, Carignan and even Pedro Ximenez (used in the production of a yummy, rich Sherry) varietals landed on the scene. Somehow, someway, “they” also figured out that Baja, Mexico was quintessential vine country, er… wine country. Only 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, Baja has a terrific climate and mineral-rich soil ideal for viticulture. Today innovation seems to be setting in – albeit slowly.

If you caught the recent “Diary of a Foodie” episode on PBS, a work of Gourmet magazine, none of this is news to you. Rather, Casa de Piedra Winery is synonymous with innovative, tasty Mexican vino.  Piedra plants a range of “uncommon” Mexican varietals and their philosophy is to keep yields small while employing a “simple technique”. The episode reports they plant Grenache and Mission grapes for the reds, and Palomino for the whites. Further research on their website suggests their repertoire of varietals is much greater: Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are additional red varietals planted; Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are some of the whites grown. That’s certainly a diverse lot! I applaud their willingness to experiment.

Unfortunately I’ve never had the (dis?)pleasure of sipping on a Mexican wine offering. But by Robinson’s account, while “Mexican tastes and drinking habits have long lagged behind the increasingly exciting achievements of Mexico’s modern vineyards and wineries”, they are worth checking out.

Are Mexican wines even available in your market? Have you had a chance to sample them?