Pour Favor » Alsace

What the Blanc? (Part I)

Rebecca Rethore — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 14:57:08 +0000

Two summers ago I put together a case of wine for a family gathering out on Block Island. I knew my sisters prefer their wines white in the summer – and as crisp and citrusy as they come (enticing labels never hurt either). Aiming to please, the case was filled with six bottles of white, two rosé and two reds. In that mix, a few were Sauvignon Blancs (the family “fan fav”) from different parts of the world and including a White Bordeaux (a blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc and a little Semillon) and a little Chilean number. But my goal was also to expand their wine varietal horizons, and so I threw in a Pinot Blanc and two Chenin Blancs for good measure. I figured the “Blanc” would be familiar, but different, and peak their curiosity.

Discover “what the blanc?!” on Wicked Local today!

Easter wine recs

Rebecca Rethore — Mon, 29 Mar 2010 11:30:57 +0000

Easter is a holiday that not everyone celebrates – nor in the same ways. Traditions are a bit more fluid somehow here in the United States. Maybe your family prefers a delicious Easter brunch after a morning visit to church and an Easter Egg Hunt for the kiddies. Maybe you do your own thing with your family in the morning, then visit with friends in the afternoon over a mid-afternoon dinner of baked ham or a leg of lamb. But one thing is certain: such a lack of specific tradition can cause some level of Easter week “panic.” Of course, there’s no need to stress when a little advice is at the ready. Pop over to Wicked Local today to get some ideas for your celebration!

Will wine have a place at your Easter table this year? What will you uncork?

Wines for Thanksgiving!

Rebecca Rethore — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:15:41 +0000

With only one weekend before Thanksgiving remaining, no doubt wine lovers throughout the country will be out and about buying wines for the big event. Indeed, it’s up there as far as important wine events go! For your drinking (and reading) pleasure, it seemed prudent to round up a few of my favorite picks for the e-roster.

Wheeee!!

REDS

2007 Schloss Muhlenhof Dornfelder - This bad boy comes in a 1L size. I hosted a small affair last weekend and it could have easily been the only wine I poured (it was gone WAY too quickly!) – offering great, concentrated red berry fruit flavors (cherries, raspberries) in a smooth, sultry package. Generally speaking, this grape (Dornfelder, that is) is a German red wine phenomenon for those who like a lot of fruit, a bit of “lift” and a welcome bit of earthy, mineral-driven nuance to their wines. No lie, Scholss Muhlenhof’s is THE BEST I’ve ever encountered (so great is my love I’m tempted to buy a full case of the stuff to have on hand “just in case…” this winter). The extra glass the 1L size offers will NOT be wasted. Only $15!

2006 Bethel Heights Eola-Amity Cuvee Pinot Noir - A careful blend of 6 different vineyard sites, the is a tremendous, mouth-filling example of Oregon Pinot Noir. Think of this wine as a smooth, deeply earthy Belgian truffle, filled with cherry and raspberry fruits. Truly a well-integrated, delicious wine worth the gentle splurge. (A winner destined for my own table.) About $31.

2007 Clos la Coutale Cahors – With the (worthy) Malbec craze stemming from the success of this grape in Argentina, many consumers forget Malbec is actually a French varietal. Many more do not know that arguably the best, single bottling Malbecs in France come from the Cahors region – and are labeled simply as such. This wine is remarkably succulent, juicy and approachable. Enjoy black raspberry and blackberry flavors complemented with fresh strawberries! A touch of earthy rusticity makes this Malbec uniquely French. This one is a “bigger” wine than “traditional” Thanskgiving recommendations and would be a particularly good match for rosemary/garlic encrusted roast hen, or the like. About $17.

WHITES

Schoenheitz NV Edelzwicker - Edelzwicker means “noble blend”. Indeed this wine includes as many as seven different varieties from Auxerrois to Sylvaner. The result is suprisingly coherent and delightfully flavorful. Well balanced, dry Alsatian goodness, this is another wine that comes in the 1 litre size bottle. About $15.

2006 Clos de Rochers Pinot Gris – While Alsace, France has long been the place for rich, but dry Pinot Gris, this Luxembourg beauty beats them at their own game. Ripe pears and yellow flowers abound on the nose and coat the palette while brisk minerality keeps things dry and balanced. This wine is absolutely worth the splurge – and certainly a great conversation topic if the family gets a bit unruly. (This one will also be on my own table!) About $22.

2007 Anne Amie Cuvee A Mueller Thurgau -Leave it to the folks at well-known Anne Amie Vineyards to deliver an exceptional, if not lesser known, wine. The Cuvee A Mueller Thurgau’s tropical and floral aromas could very easily be bottled on their own and used by aroma therapists to rejuvenate clients. Pineapple, melon and white peach flavors comingle with a perky taste of fresh lemon juice. About $15.

SPARKLING FUN

Villa di Corlo NV Grasparossa Lambrusco – Versatile, slightly sparkling, fresh, fruity goodness. Lambrusco is pink – and the best are oh-so-dry. This is a wine for guests who deserve and enjoy a break from the norm. This particular offering shows ripe raspberry fruit backed by a coy minerality. Perfect simply when you want to dazzle without effort. About $17.

Poema NV Brut Cava - Today, if you look for it, exceptional Cava is available at a fraction of the price of Champagne. Case in point: the Poema makes drinking bubbly every day (or in a large party format) oh-so-easy and affordable! This is a fun and versatile bubbly with subtle flavors of peach, pear and warm, toasted bread. A bit of orange rind on the finish adds additional intrigue and nuance. Enjoy this one before, during or after your meal. About $11.

Which one of these is likely to grace your table? Is there another you have in mind for the big day??

Edelz-what?? The good juice in a 1 Liter bottle.

Rebecca Rethore — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:30:20 +0000

Perhaps you’ve encountered a white wine that comes in a 1 liter bottle inside the cooler at your local fine wines shop this summer. There are a handful of them on the market this year. But it’s not necessarily something you see every day. Some of these wines are 100% Gruner Veltliner, Austria’s flagship white and a fast favorite here in the states; some others may be a little known white blend called “Edelzwicker.”

Eldelzwicker can be hit or miss, like any wine, but the stuff making it across the Atlantic and onto our shores so far has proven very worthy of our attention. Pop on over to Wicked Local today to find out what all the buzz is about!

Have you uncorked an Edelzwicker this summer? Which one?

France in wine-lights this week

Rebecca Rethore — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 11:30:57 +0000

Tuesday night’s local Taste of Somerville event went off without a hitch! Myriad folks from the area popped over to the (perhaps surprising venue of the) Holiday Inn on Washington Street to taste the wares of this greater Boston city. My colleague and I were proud to be one of the few (three, we think) establishments pouring a selection of wines for citizens to sample. While accolades abounded for each one on offer, it was hard not to notice the many pleasantly surprised faces of those who sampled one of my favorite Rose’s of the season: 2008 Saint Andre Figuiere Rose from Provence, France.

Why such surprise? Well, as much as we talk about it here at Pour Favor, it’s one of those things where seeing, or tasting, is believing. Great rose is DRY, crisp and refreshing! We were not pouring the sweet pink stuff from California, also known as White Zinfandel. No, indeed! And, not one person (old, young or in between) was disappointed. Our mission was accomplished.

Meanwhile, back on the proverbial farm, the Powers That Be in Brussels determined European rose production standards would remain. What’s this, you ask?

Recall a few months ago we discussed headlines indicating European officials were attempting to change legislation such that the blending of red and white wines would be permitted in the production of rose wines. Well, if you’ve been holding your breath in protest, you can go ahead and let it on out! This week the European Agriculture Commissioner, Mariann Fischer Boel, announced she had changed her mind. Advocacy groups had made their point: the blending of reds and whites would compromise the very essence of what makes (French) rose special – being made from old red grapes. I am so relieved.

Now to see if the French will overturn their ruling against outdoor alcohol consumption as of July 31st….

On a more somber ‘French news‘ note, I am saddened to convey the passing of Johnny Hugel, the famous Alsatian winemaker/advocate. Open a bottle of Hugel this weekend and toast to a marvelous man. Afterall, even if you never knew the role he played in crafting today’s Alsatian wine world, he is a man of great insight saying, “‘People who like wine are nicer people than those who do not like wine.” I like to think that’s true.

Do you have fond memories drinking Hugel? ‘Tis the season for these tremendous Alsatian whites!

Wines for fall: don’t forget about white blends!

Rebecca Rethore — Wed, 29 Oct 2008 12:00:38 +0000

White wines aren’t just a summer thang. (One of the best turkey wines is actually Pinot Gris from Alsace or Oregon!) And this time of year it can be really fun to expand your white wine horizons by looking into fabulous white blends. Think of old favorites like Evolution 9. Conundrum. Luna Freakout. The list goes on and on! The trick is finding fun white blends that have a little extra oomph to get you through the colder nights. A little residual sugar might not hurt either (think Anne Amie Cuvee Amrit!).

Since last week we talked about the awsome red blend SNAFU put out by the Local Wine Company, its only fair for me to let you in on the goodness that is their white wine blend: ‘06 JuneHog Oregon White. Yum. Oh wait, but I’m getting a bit ahead of myself…

Ever heard of Mueller Thurgau? Mueller is another one of the man-made varietals we’ve talked about lately. Back in the late 19th Century Dr. Thurgau created this hybrid varietal. His goal was to create a grape with the intensity of Riesling but with the ability to ripen earlier; he used Sylvaner to achieve the latter. He didn’t quite get an A+ on his project, but he didn’t do too badly either. Mueller wines are fruity, but low in acidity. They are medium sweet, too, and very smooth. This varietal makes up the greatest component of the JuneHog, coming in at 33% of the wine’s juice.

The next largest component of the JuneHog is Gewurtztraminer, or the “spicy white grape” that actually got its start in Traminer, Italy, but happens to have a German name. Go figure! Gewurtz is sweet, spicy, fruity, full-figured and has gorgeous floral aromas. (Trade “secret”: Gewurtz is actually sweeter than Riesling!) This grape brings 22% of the juice to the JuneHog blend.

The third largest component of this fun blend is Pinot Gris (21%). Recall from earlier posts Pinot Gris is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. Alsatian-style Pinot Gris is full bodied and offers ripe-fruit sweetness on the palate. These wines are down right lovely on their own, let alone in a blend!

Pinot Blanc clocks in at 16% of the June Hog blend, which gets finished off with just a touch of Riesling (5%, if I’ve done the math right). I’m not sure how much time we’ve spent on Pinot Blanc together. But the thing to know is when winemakers don’t oak it, or stir it on the lees or otherwise “interfere” with it, PB offers terrific apple and almond flavors. As such, it can be one of the softest yet lightest (read: high acid) white wines on offer. A treat on their own and perhaps even better in some blends.

What do all these various components mean for the JuneHog experience? Let’s put it this way: this is the wine I want to drink on a cool fall day when I’m sitting in my Adirondack chair on some beach or even on my front porch – glass of wine in hand, a blanket at the ready and my book propped on my lap. Something mouthfilling yet clean you don’t have to think twice to enjoy. Warm sun, crisp air, relaxation. (Snacks optional – but with this wine you won’t go wrong with the pairing you choose!)

What’s your favorite fall white (blend) this year?

unlock the magic this fall: alsatian-style pinot gris

Rebecca Rethore — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 13:39:04 +0000

Last week here in Beantown the weather went from gorgeous fall to stormy insanity. In some ways this is a wine buyer’s dream. There’s no other time of year where you can pick wines for the weekly tasting to straddle the warmer/colder, sunnier/rainier line and scratch almost every consumer’s itch. And since there’s so much new juice on the market, we can also introduce our customers to new products. See? There’s always a silver lining (even when you now have a natural swimming pool in the backyard…)!

But I’m jazzed about my topic for this Monday morning musing for another reason, too… remember last week we started talking about fall wine options? Well, for my white wine readers and gourd-lovers out there, I’ve also got some fall love to share!

Alsatian (style) Pinot Gris. Welcome to my happy place.

Let’s start with a few basics. This grape is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. It looks almost the same as Pinot Noir (right on down to its leaves) but the grapes have a blue-grey hue. This is where it gets its name. Varietally speaking, Pinot Grigio is the same grape and simply the name used by Italian wine-makers. (This should remind you of the Shiraz (Australia/New World) vs. Syrah (France/Old World) conversation we had a few months back.)

Here’s the thing. I don’t like Pinot Grigio. Don’t get me wrong. I know good quality Italian Pinot Grigio when I find it (so I’m happy to talk about it with those who do dig it), but it’s not my personal bag. I find they are more often too thin and too high in alcohol to meet my palate’s needs. I’m a sucker for bigger, fruitier whites, hence my appreciation of Pinot Gris. The Alsatian climate offers a warm, dry fall that allows the grapes to ripen fully; the grape’s full, ripe sweetness is its tell-tale feature. What’s interesting is that Pinot Gris has become sweeter and sweeter in recent years, but often wine labels do not indicate any residual sugar remains. The CIVA (Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin d’Alsace) is trying to sort things out for consumers. The folks there are developing a system to help consumers navigate the range of Pinot Gris available, from sweeter to drier. (As you explore styles of Pinot Gris from Alsace, Oregon or elsewhere, be sure to ask your shop’s wine manager what’s what in any given bottle.)

Last week for our tasting we offered our customers a chance to experience the 2007 Helfrich Pinot Gris. For those who know what Alsace has to offer its Pinot Gris consumers, this wine sings true from start to finish. It is not a shy wine, offering a big, floral nose. It is equally rich and full in the mouth with the ripe fruit flavors carrying through to the palate. I was pleased to find the winemaker’s notes accurately suggest the wine also offers a touch of smokey spice. It was a great wine to have at our tasting; many customers were surprised by the wine’s sweeter edge. To me, the citrus and grass notes as well as its acidity impart a tremendous crispness to counter that effect and produce a well-balanced wine.

No surprise, I’m not the only one who is jumping on the Pinot Gris wine-writing bandwagon this fall. Katherine Cole took this topic for a test drive last week, in fact! I highly recommend checking out her musings and taking her up on her suggestions for other great Pinot Gris on the market. Oregon has been a hot bed for awesome Pinot Gris since the 1990’s, with it really catching on in the last several years. Be sure to try a few offerings from that part of the world also as you investigate this versatally-styled wine. And definitely consider popping a cork when you concoct a fabulous dish of squash or pumpkin goodness this fall.

Which Pinot Gris do you fancy? What recipes do you find are great pairings?