Here in Boston we often find that in the (unofficial) ‘Winemaking Philosophy School’ domestic producers come down on one or the other side of the Old vs. New World style line. California producers who want to be know for producing “cleaner” (read: more subtly oaked, or unoaked), less “tropical” white wines and/or producing “cleaner” (less chocolatey) or alcoholic reds often describe their approach as more Old World. Sometimes they’ll even get more specific, too, such that if they are focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they are shooting for a more Burgundian (France) approach; if they are focusing on Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc or the like, they will tell you they are inspired by Bordeaux (France) reds; and likewise if they are focusing on Syrah, Grenache and the like, they will tell you Rhone (France) wines are their inspiration.

New World wines can strike a middle ground, where the fruit is forward and full, but not so much so as to hide any other nuances.  This style is just a lot harder to find.

This week we had the pleasure of revisiting the well-known, highly regarded wines of Elyse Vineyards with the understated Winemaker/Owner Ray Coursen guiding us through his ample lineup. The elegance and distinction of his wines (among an elite list of colleagues – we also happened to have the pleasure of tasting Burgess wines earlier that day) spoke for themselves, with his Rhone-focused reds displaying an almost unheard of level of refinement and elegance, with a surprising lighter body (relatively speaking) and a lower alcohol level than the heavy-handed Grenache grape (in and of its own genetic makeup) is known. The nuances of smoked meats and charcuterie stole the show – and brought back to discussion the impact of terroir in California.

We’ve agreed amongst ourselves informally that the popular alcohol bombs of the 1990s were delicious enough at the time, but took their toll on you physically. But we hadn’t heard a domestic producer weigh in on the topic recently. Interestingly, Ray offered up his perspective on alcohol levels at the outset – and it was fascinating. This man is NOT, by any stretch of the imagination, working with grape varietals that are not a huge challenge to keep at moderate levels of alcohol. (And especially during the heyday of Robert Parker reviews (1990s), big, extracted wines were what the market was after; given the growing conditions and winemaking practices of the time, it was easy enough to offer up the goods accordingly.)

Ray said he and his crew got to the point where they didn’t want to drink their own wines everyday – they had worn them out because they were just so big, so high octane. Over the years it was just too much. In the last few vintages they’ve made the decision to simply apply a lighter hand. And the savory/elegant tension is outstanding!

Ray’s Zin’s continue to be flagship wines, for sure, but if you want to be enchanted for enchantment’s sake seek out the Elyse Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard (Rhone red). This largely Grenache-based wine (with a dash of Syrah and Viognier) has a surprising Burgundian appeal (yep! That’s French Pinot Noir I’m talking about). The nose offers up black cherry fruit and a large yet refined helping of charcuterie. Lovely and floral, it is earthy and pure, clean yet spicey, both black and red fruited – and best of all, it is feminine and lithe (3% Viognier goes a long way).

For slightly less dough you could also try the Rhone-inspired Elyse C’est si Bon. It delivers more robust fruit, a welcome kick of spice, more of that surprising smoked meat nuance as well as blueberry and black fruits, raspberry and even a little bit of strawberry leaf earth. It is surprisingly lighter bodied for how profound the fruit is. It is another complex wine with hits of Burgundy from Elyse – that will leave you waxing poetic.

If you prefer whites, Ray has something for you, too: the Elyse Sonoma Chardonnay. This is a wine with incredible balance and refinement with an awesome, easy-going approach. Gentle nutmeg spice complements the melon and Meyer lemon flavors on entry and the more tropical fruit notes on the finish. This is a pretty, delicious, memorable vin.

These are just a few notes from the ample line-up we tasted – and there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch! If we saw more of this approach coming out of California, suffice to say, we’d be spoiled rotten. Giddy-up!

I realized I haven’t posted in ages about what I’ve been sipping on. The last several months, it’s felt a bit like a marathon – not of exorbitant consumption, per se, but of keeping up with the many new vintages hitting shelves this summer. Yes, my colleague and I (largely) enjoy  our “Homework”, which consists of bring home new finds or new vintages of old favorites to ‘check in’ on a particular wine and perhaps most important, have it in the comfort of our own homes, with friends/family (or sometimes solo)  and 9 out of 10 times, with food. Sure, you can taste 60+ wines per week, but there’s something to be said for getting a little bit of a reality check, or perspective on what the average wine consumer experiences.

Where to begin? Naturally we’ll start with rose, since that’s what I’m most inclined to take home right at the moment. I don’t know what it is, but as soon as it gets warm all I want is a good rose. And now it is H-O-T.

As you may recall from my late Spring post, fresh out of the gates, things were looking a bit unsettled in rose land; wines had not yet come into their own.

But now they are singING!

I’m still a huge fan of Chateau Larroque, the Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend I last wrote about. Contending alongside it for my everyday rose-sipping affections is… Le Fraghe “Rodon” Bardolino Chiaretto rose. Now here’s something equally unique (perhaps why there are so many apparent ‘names’ on the bottle). Bardolino by definition connotes a light styled Italian red, one you might chill. Ok, it’s hot outside. Tell me more! The grapes in this lively rose (not that you can tell from the label, ironically) are Rondinella and Corvina – two of the flagship varietals that make up the bold Veneto wine Valpolicella. The grapes see about 6 hours on the skin, giving it a dark rose/light light red wine color. The finished wine actually matures on the lees in stainless steel tanks. This process give it a richer texture but also a zesty punch. I love it for it’s uber-dry, quenching qualities – and the fact that there is a surprising, but welcome bit of spice on the finish! I think it is that little extra kick that sets it apart from other roses (particularly the kind I typically gravitate towards, those from Provence).

It’s definitely been a fun summer so far! If you want to spend a few extra bones and can get your hands on any, keep an eye out for another vierdo rose – one from County Line in Anderson Valley. This bold wine is a 100% Pinot Noir offering.

What are you drinking at the moment?

Do you have wine in your cellar, wine fridge or rack that someone gave to you? Do you have wine in your cellar, wine fridge or rack that you’ve been aging for a while? Have you looked at those in a while, or are they still out of sight out of mind?

While I use January as month to scoop up affordable finds, I also use it as a month to do wine ‘housekeeping’.  This strategy allows me to accomplish a few key things: 1)  ‘rotate’ in bottles I’ve been aging that are due to be drunk; 2) create room for new purchases to come later in the year; and 3) avoid sitting on bottles that were gifts (from myself or others) that should be drunk now.

The first bottle I pulled from my stash was the Arger-Martucci Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc. When I visited the Napa Valley several years ago, this was one property my sister-in-law and I visited. It was a newer property that popped up on our radar and so we made an appointment and enjoyed a memorable afternoon sitting on their back picnic bench while tasting their wares and snacking on some cheese.

For Christmas this past year, I received a bottle of the Cab Franc as a gift. I was thrilled to see the wine in the market and happy to have an excuse to revisit one of their wines. I was also excited it was a bottling of Cab Franc, a grape that can fly under the radar screen for many consumers, but which is one of the 5 Bordeaux elite varietals that can legally be blended into red wines there. The grape is known for it’s more earthy, vegetal qualities – the latter of which can be a bit too intense and stick out like a sore thumb. It’s a varietal that can be hit or miss when bottled on its own, but when it’s a hit, I’m a big fan.

The Arger-Martucci Cab Franc is likely in various US markets for around $35/bottle. This 2004 offering delivered blackberry, black cherry and red currant fruit, a subtle more mushroomy vegetal quality (as opposed to offending green bell peppers), and a nice layer of wet, black soil. The edges were soft and round, with a slight espresso bean flavor on the long finish. Its supple texture meant I had to really pace myself so as to avoid consuming it too quickly! It was a wine that was enjoyable when first uncorked but that certainly evolved and became more nuanced as it opened – important for a wine at this price point.

I needed no occasion to open this savory beverage other than a cozy night in, out of the cold, with a few extra dollars still in my pocket.

Cheers to that, right?

For Thanksgiving you often think of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris as “perfect” pairings. And in fact, those are the varietals that I almost always seek out for the big day in part because they are such a good match but also because it is an ‘excuse’ to spend the bigger bucks on a great red Burgundy or some incredible Alsatian PG. But Thanksgiving really is an open-ended wine pairing holiday.

Like chicken, turkey offers a clean slate. It’s like the tofu of the meat world; it’s something that needs dressing up to have a real identity. As such, wine pairing is more about all the sides you are going to prepare – cranberry sauce, earthy root vegetables like brussel sprouts or creamed white onions, or sweet potatoes, or your mother’s fruit salad (with marshmallows) that you have every year because it’s “tradition”. Yes, the Pinot family can take the fun on home with sides like these. But the world really is your oyster!

Here are a few other ideas to consider – and when I say consider, I mean who all is coming to dinner, what their preferences might be and how to keep everyone happy (sometimes the real objective at your holiday gathering)….

Whites  ~

White Burgundy, or the more affordable alternative, Macon Chardonnay. The thing about these wines is that Burgundy (and the surround areas where you can spend a few less dollars) offers a full, fleshy and fruit-forward experience that won’t weigh you down. They are gently oaked wonders, which means that you can still bring Chardonnay (a familiar grape) to the table without bringing a bottle of buttery, wooded, BIG juice, that won’t quite work with such a big meal. Clean, pure, fruit and citrus lift are a winning combination.

Albarino. Albarino is an incredibly versatile option that will pair with anything. Its low alcohol, terrific, sea-like minerality and bright acidity keep your guests, and your overindulgence, in check, and also offers a little something unique and enjoyable beyond “the usual suspects”. While gaining in popularity, it is still a grape that not everyone knows. Few are likely to have a preconceived notion of what to expect – and whether they will like it or not. Chances are – they will, too.

Reds ~

Malbec. Now this is a grape that people know and tend to have only very positive feelings about! And, it is also a grape that won’t over-power the turkey and will certainly complement the earthier fare on your table. Seek out fruit forward, earthier styles (as opposed to the chocolatey, rich ones) for a real treat.

Zinfandel. Zin can be tricky because so many of them are so high in alcohol. That is dangerous both on an over-consumption level and also because it really can weigh you down. The juicy sweetness and slightly earthy nuance on offer (in great Zin) certainly pairs with the cranberry sauce. But for the Thanksgiving table that runs the ‘non traditional’ gamut in particular by delivering an Italian feast (and yet for folks that want a truly “American” wine to pair), this is an option to consider. My recommendation? In this case, spend the extra bucks to get a really well-made, more nuanced wine.

What will you be drinking next Thursday?

With August but days away, we’ll be signing off for some needed R & R for a few weeks – perhaps with the occasional insight or newsflash to whet your whistle until we get back into the full swing of things after Labor Day.

But we can’t NOT go out with Wicked splash first! Head over to Wicked Local today to find out about two more “Blanc” varietals you won’t want to miss this summer!  Giddy-up!

Which Chenin Blanc is your summer fav?