Image c/o TW Food website

I can’t remember the last time I wrote a restaurant review. I do have a list of places on my ‘to talk about’ list, though; some of these spots are more remote or ‘hole in the wall’ than others and I selfishly find I like to keep these hidden gems to myself before I dig deep to overcome my personal/professional block and write about them. The good news for you, dear reader, is that when I do finally ‘break down’ and share my impressions of certain fine establishments around town, you know my writings are heartfelt.

Time and again my experiences at the somewhat off-the-beaten path TW Food restaurant in Cambridge are exceptional ones – so much so that it was the “Something New” gift card I imparted on two of my best friends earlier this fall as part 2 of  their wedding present (part 1 being “Something Old” – a gift card to the spot where they had their first official date). The recent special tasting of Jura wines with food pairings by the ever-meticulous head Chef/Owner Tim Wiechmann that I attended was no exception. A small, talented team (maybe just Tim, his attentive wife Bronwyn and their knowledgeable Sommelier Jillian Marini?) in a small, cozy/romantic space seems to be all you need to create an unusually thoughtful, unobtrusive experience for guests. An artisanal approach doesn’t hurt either…

Jillian’s personal wine curiosity means that TW doesn’t just deliver an amazing gastronomic experience, but that you are in for a treat when you also opt for the wine pairing as part of their prefix menu. I don’t think there is a more reasonably priced meal around town – let alone one that will allow you, already an ‘explorer’ by virtue of the fact that you sought out TW Food in it’s Cambridge nook, to further discover several distinct parts of the wine world and delicious flavor combinations at one sitting.

TW is also committed to the local/seasonal movement. This means that their wine list, though small, packs a real punch and is always fine-tuned to work with the fare of the season. Right now they are rock’n a largely Jura wine selection. The Jura is a tiny, lesser explored wine region bordering Burgundy and Switzerland. Wines from these regions share a certain similarity with one another – but as I always find is the case in these parts, they have their own chutzpah and personality, too. In the Jura their focus is on lesser known varietals like Poulsard and Trousseau (reds), and Savagnin and Chardonnay (whites). It can get beastly cold there, so yes, it is right to guess the reds tend to have a levity or lighter-bodied quality to them. Minerality (terroir) cuts through and distinguishes the wines in a such a distinct way that I can only analogize to say, it reminds me of a chilly winter day when it smells like snow is coming -  you just know it to be what it is.

During dinner we enjoyed Peggy Buronfosse’s Cremant Rose of Pinot Noir Brut (a lively, delicious, finely bubbled sparkler with raspberry and blueberry intonations) as well as her 2006 Savagnin/Chardonnay blend called “Les Belemnites, which reminded me of an aged Chablis for its richness, truffle tones and caramel nuttiness you can get from an aged wine. Stephane Tissot’s old vine Poulsard (2007) reminded me of a Gamay/Pinot Noir blend – and was a fine match for the seared tuna at hand. Dessert need not have come for the tremendous Vin Jaune by Jacques Puffeney (1999) was treat enough for me; Vin Jaune is considered a specialty of the Jura and one not to miss when the occasion presents itself.

At last check, each of these wines is available right now at TW Food. They are certainly ones I consider “nerd wines” – perfect for the wine curious explorer. And ’tis the season for giving and indulging! Head over to TW Food and you won’t be disappointed.

Have you had the pleasure of dining at TW Food? What is it that keeps you going back?

For Thanksgiving you often think of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris as “perfect” pairings. And in fact, those are the varietals that I almost always seek out for the big day in part because they are such a good match but also because it is an ‘excuse’ to spend the bigger bucks on a great red Burgundy or some incredible Alsatian PG. But Thanksgiving really is an open-ended wine pairing holiday.

Like chicken, turkey offers a clean slate. It’s like the tofu of the meat world; it’s something that needs dressing up to have a real identity. As such, wine pairing is more about all the sides you are going to prepare – cranberry sauce, earthy root vegetables like brussel sprouts or creamed white onions, or sweet potatoes, or your mother’s fruit salad (with marshmallows) that you have every year because it’s “tradition”. Yes, the Pinot family can take the fun on home with sides like these. But the world really is your oyster!

Here are a few other ideas to consider – and when I say consider, I mean who all is coming to dinner, what their preferences might be and how to keep everyone happy (sometimes the real objective at your holiday gathering)….

Whites  ~

White Burgundy, or the more affordable alternative, Macon Chardonnay. The thing about these wines is that Burgundy (and the surround areas where you can spend a few less dollars) offers a full, fleshy and fruit-forward experience that won’t weigh you down. They are gently oaked wonders, which means that you can still bring Chardonnay (a familiar grape) to the table without bringing a bottle of buttery, wooded, BIG juice, that won’t quite work with such a big meal. Clean, pure, fruit and citrus lift are a winning combination.

Albarino. Albarino is an incredibly versatile option that will pair with anything. Its low alcohol, terrific, sea-like minerality and bright acidity keep your guests, and your overindulgence, in check, and also offers a little something unique and enjoyable beyond “the usual suspects”. While gaining in popularity, it is still a grape that not everyone knows. Few are likely to have a preconceived notion of what to expect – and whether they will like it or not. Chances are – they will, too.

Reds ~

Malbec. Now this is a grape that people know and tend to have only very positive feelings about! And, it is also a grape that won’t over-power the turkey and will certainly complement the earthier fare on your table. Seek out fruit forward, earthier styles (as opposed to the chocolatey, rich ones) for a real treat.

Zinfandel. Zin can be tricky because so many of them are so high in alcohol. That is dangerous both on an over-consumption level and also because it really can weigh you down. The juicy sweetness and slightly earthy nuance on offer (in great Zin) certainly pairs with the cranberry sauce. But for the Thanksgiving table that runs the ‘non traditional’ gamut in particular by delivering an Italian feast (and yet for folks that want a truly “American” wine to pair), this is an option to consider. My recommendation? In this case, spend the extra bucks to get a really well-made, more nuanced wine.

What will you be drinking next Thursday?

What a rewarding surprise to find when you Google “Chablis” you are not taken to the homepage of Gallo, purveyors of a California white jug wine that is responsible for an overwhelming misconception of what Chablis actually is: a winemaking village in France’s well-regarded Burgundy region. And when you get down to the particulars of what the wine is, we’re talking about a refined, unoaked Chardonnay with a tremendous spine of minerality unique to the region itself.

Chardonnay? Yes. This, the world’s most recognized white wine grape, has its roots in Burgundy, no pun intended, where they focus on drawing out the natural flavors of the grape itself. On this July 4th weekend holiday, get ready to relish a bit of something super special! Pop over to Wicked Local to get the skinny on this special “take” on Chard.

When you hear “Chablis” what do you think of first?

This week the bloggosphere has been uncorking juicy tidbits left and right. And since we all need a bit of levity over a holiday weekend (or anticipation on one on a Friday), here are some of my favorites:

Dr. Vino doesn’t hold back at all with this week’s Sipped & Spit line-up. Bordeaux, Grateful Palate banter, Bourgogne Blanc and Brews…. Sit back and be entertained!

Next week we’ll be adding some wine knowledge to your week over at Wicked Local. In anticipation of that article, check out this entertaining banter on the obscure Melon Queue Rouge varietal. Chardonnay? Or something else? Have you ever encountered it before?

While you consider your response to the above question, sip on this fine suggestion from Deb Harkness. She has your back (and BBQ needs) covered this Fourth of July weekend. Independence from decision-making = Happiness!

We figure there’s no time like springtime to select wines that may tend to hibernate otherwise without a little special attention, simply because they are lesser known. So this April we’re keeping things both familiar (staying closer to home with domestic wine picks) and more… interesting! Our red wine choices don’t exactly roll off the tongue, but with such powerful juice in the bottle, we know that’s about to change. Enjoy learning about these noteworthy April Wicked Wines on Wicked Local today!

Are you familiar with any of these more off-the-beaten path picks?