Archive for the ‘Chile’ Category

Carmenere: something old, something new…

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009 by Rebecca

Terra Noble CarmenereThere’s something great about finding something you thought had long been lost, or even just finding something you had long forgotten. The idea is the same. There is a magic to the rediscovery, almost heightening your original experience because of the novelty of the find.

This happened to me a couple of years ago when my mom had us go through our respective “boxes” of childhood stuff to consolidate our treasures. I remember finding a terrific array of goodies from my first “club”, where I was deemed Secretary. I was – and still am – completely humored by the fact that my newsletter writing style and go-get-’m/take-no-prisoners/ra-ra approach as an 8 year old lived on in my daily correspondence with colleagues in 2006. Funny stuff.

Carmenere is to 19th Century Bordeaux, France as my email writing style today is to 1987. Just imagine researchers’ surprise and delight in the mid 1990s when the Carmenere grape was found alive and well in Chile – after it was long thought distinct due to the onset of phylloxera in Bordeaux. Difficult to replant and prone to disease because of the weather conditions in Bordeaux, Carmenere (one of the 6 original “noble” varieties of Bordeaux) was considered a lost cause and not replanted after the phylloxera epidemic. Somehow, someway, Carmenere grape plantings arrived in Chile – and the varietal thrived in its new dry, warm habitat. The ‘funny’ thing is this varietal was thought to be Merlot…. for quite a long time Chilean “Merlot” was distinct. Finally, in 1994, research was undertaken to sort things out – and Carmenere’s true identity and history were revealed.

Today Carmenere is not just used as a blending grape, but known in its own right as one of Chile’s best single varietal wines. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve tasted a lot of bad Carmenere, with bitter, stemmy flavors and a distinct green bell pepper vegetal quality dominating. But when it’s on, it’s on. Good examples show tremendous depth for a “middle-weight”, including red and dark fruits, a touch of earthiness, tobacco and leather, as well as a distinct smokey character or even a mocha/dark chocolate element. No kidding. All that in a bottle of wine!

Just this week I retasted the well-known 2007 Terra Noble Grand Reserva  Carmenere.  It’s smokiness and darker tones (e.g. dried herbs, tobacco and leather) made me channel a great big stew of lamb, carrots and potatoes,  sitting in front of my (theoretical) fireplace. I realized somehow thus far I had neglected to share this something new/something old with my readers. Well, better late than never! This wine will certainly carry us through the inevitably blustery March right on into Spring, when our barbecues will be ripe for action thereafter.

But as I said, there’s a lot of Carmenere on the market and it doesn’t always delight. Chile is, after all, an up and coming area experiencing a few growing pains. And I think Carmenere may be more of an acquired taste than an automatic winner for most consumers. No surprise then, today’s question is:

What’s your experience with Carmenere?

the wine-r-cooler is buzzing…

Friday, September 26th, 2008 by Rebecca

I’ve been running from industry tasting to industry tasting the last few weeks, not only tasting the new releases and other new wines available this fall, but also picking up tidbits here and there about what’s what and otherwise on the minds of winemakers, importers, distributors and, of course, consumers. I find it absolutely fascinating to compare these ‘hallway musings’ with what I read on various blog sites and in on-line trade mags. This gives me a sense of whether these conversations are local to the MA/New England market, or if they are more global. Today I can’t help but give you a snapshot of these ruminations, hopefully giving you the chance to be “a fly on the (wine trade) wall”!

The question of the strengthening dollar. I can’t tell you how many folks have asked why wine prices are still high when the dollar is getting stronger (granted, a relative concept). No surprise, it’s on everyone’s mind. I can’t wait myself! Well, in uncertain economic times, no one is more anxious to start sharing the ‘winnings’ than the importers of fine wines from Europe. After all, wine does go sour eventually! If they can’t unload it then they’re the ones who will really be hurting. The thing is, the wine already on shelves is wine that was purchased when the dollar was particularly weak. I think we’ll see things start to turn around soon enough, though. Dr. Vino seems to have the same take. Importers are eagerly biding their time, waiting for the wares they are now buying overseas (at a better price) to come to market here in the U.S.. Check out his interview with Victor Owen Schwartz of Vos Selections to get an inside peak into this topic.

The question of the California wildfires. Here’s another one I find fascinating to discuss. Several weeks ago I reported the California harvest season had started and early reports were favorable for the 2008 vintage despite the wildfires that ravaged the area. I won’t get to taste these wines for another year or two or three (depending on the varietal). But there are some folks who are so lucky to get a preview! Alice Feiring reported this week an essence of smoke is present in the various wines she’s sampled. She banters a bit about whether this should be considered “taint” or not; her discussion is highly entertaining – and worth checking out first hand. Her reflections (aka witty banter) is available here. If what she writes is true, I may become more of a California wine drinker in years to come… I love a little smoke in my wine!

The latest in Wine, Politics, and (silly) Journalism. It irks me when the press gets hold of some silly little thing and goes bonkers talking abou it. Don’t we have anything better to do here, people?! Well, this week there’s one regarding wine that in my mad wine tasting week I nearly missed. So just in case I’m not the only one, here’s one for the watercooler…. Palin wine, a Chilean winery that’s only in its infancy, has both taken off and taken a hit since McCain nominated Sarah Palin as his running mate. Let’s just say its success depends on whether you live in a blue or red state/area in the country where this wine is available. I can’t help but roll my eyes as I attach this link to Decanter’s article. (If you want to read something a bit more serious on politics and wine, don’t forget that Wine Book Club is discussing Tyler Coleman’s latest release at the end of next month!)

What wine-related topics have been at the forefront of your newsfeed this week? What’s your take on the ones I touched on here?