Archive for the ‘Cote du Rhone’ Category

the masked monster grape, aka wines for fall: petite sirah

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008 by Rebecca

What better way to continue our discussion about wines perfect for fall than to start the month of October with some banter about a monster wine? Petite Sirah (note the “i” in Sirah) is also a stealthy little operator, or the masked creature standing on your front steps in just 30 days time. Boo-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!

“What the heck is she getting at today,” you ask with incredible anticipation and a smile dancing at the corners of your mouth?

Most people have never heard of this lesser known, somewhat cloak-and-dagger varietal. Petite Sirah is a test tube grape that actually got its start in the Rhone Valley of France. It is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin, and was originally named Durif, after it’s human father. Dr. Durif developed the varietal in the 1800s to resist Powdery Mildew, to which Syrah is prone. Unfortunately being a tightly bunched varietal meant it wasn’t equally resistant to gray rot. In the humid Southern Rhone this wasn’t exactly a recipe for success.

Not to worry! California’s drier climate provided just the breath of fresh air this varietal needed. Petite Sirah is a high-tannin, high-acid, darkly-purple grape varietal used to add structure (aka aging power), oomph (body) and/or color to other wines. So how/why the dramatic name change from Durif to Petite Sirah? It wasn’t until the 1960s and 1970s that folks in California started to get particularly concerned with labeling wines per the varietals involved. And because the grape’s characteristics so resembled those of Sirah, it was called Petite Syrah. (The longer story of it’s confused genetic background and resolution by Dr. Meredith can be found here, via the notes of Dennis Fife of Fife Vineyards.)

So why is it so poorly known? For whatever reason – and I’m truly uncertain as to why – Petite Sirah is just not grown in major quantities. Something like 3200 acres of vines in California are considered Petite Sirah today. And so it is a cult wine. Many wine shops don’t even carry it as a single varietal offering. And I don’t think I’ve ever seen it as such on a restaurant wine list, either. But somewhere along the way I was introduced to this great monster of a wine. I enjoy it even more in the fall because it packs such a great punch – particularly when the grill is going (yea meat paired with highly structured, deeply flavored wines) and the night’s are cooler (and a little something extra to warm you up never hurts)!

I’ll spare you my own wine notes this post because I want you to really seek out one of these big, blackberry-fruited, peppery, single-varietal Petite Sirahs this fall. If your shop doesn’t carry a single varietal offering, see if they can bring in Vinum Cellar’s Pets Petite Sirah (~$12), the Peltier Station Petite Sirah (~$17) or the Mettler Petite Sirah (~$23). Once you taste these on their own you’ll unmask this monster of a wine and better understand what this grape contributes when blended into wines like Trentadue‘s Old Patch Red or Owen Roe‘s Abbot’s Table.

Do you enjoy this bold, inky, spicy red varietal? Which Petite Sirah is your fall pick?

Wine Blogging Wednesday: Cote du Rhone Blanc

Wednesday, June 11th, 2008 by Rebecca

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday! And so it is I have the occasion to divert from my typical blogging approach to bring news of a gorgeous, supple white wine from the Cote du Rhone, France: 2006 Chateau de Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc.

But first a brief introduction to this Wine Blogging Wednesday I speak of…. WBW was started about 4 years ago by Lenndevours to bring a virutal wine tasting to the global masses. A theme is selected by the monthly host and then wine bloggers select a wine they’ve tasted based on the theme and post their impressions on the applicable day. This month Dr. Debs is our guide. She had the brilliant idea of selecting the Cote du Rhone whites as the theme.

For me this month’s “assignment” was a pleasure. The Cote du Rhone could be my favorite region in the wine making world. There is enough variation from the North to South to keep things interesting and challenging, too. The reds are full of character, offering a great sense of place and tradition – one that my palette adores. The whites are often seductive and refreshing. (Note: of course these comments are sweeping generalizations for a large and distinct region, but for the sake of keeping my posts relatively reasonable in length, I can’t help but tempt you to explore for yourself. The Rhone is quite fun!)

There are nine grapes of the Rhone. The St. Cosme blends 4 of them: 50% is Roussanne and the rest is Picpoul, Clairette, and Marsanne. Roussanne and Clairette are perhaps two of the most aromatic and elegant grapes in this area – and the St. Cosme surely benefits. Marsanne and Picpoul are more often used as blending grapes (though I’ve had the latter on it’s own and it is quite fantastically refreshing and versatile). Ok, so those are the grapes… “What about the wine?!”, you ask?

I was shocked by the St. Cosme’s stunning gold color. I couldn’t wait to put my nose in the glass! I gave it a swirl and initially found the nose to have hints of petrol followed by intense, ripe pear aromas. As it opened and warmed slightly (it has been HOT in Boston), honey notes emerged. My first taste did not disappoint either. It had an incredible, fleshy-full, mouthfeel and flavors of pear and other tropical fruits danced around in my mouth. It paired well with my meal, too: cucumber dill & walnut salad, grilled tandoori chicken and red potatoes. This wine received my highest “rating”: YUM!

I believe every taster has their own experience with and impressions of a wine; that’s why I don’t blog to rate wines, but rather focus on giving you the ‘back story’ or other tidbits about wine to increase your curiosity to play (read: taste) as much as possible. After tasting a wine for myself, I often investigate to see what other’s think. Sometimes I completely agree, sometimes I don’t. Sometimes I laugh at how someone can say a wine is “close to being outstanding” (first, what exactly does that mean??) and then rate it only 89 points.

My recommendation? Go out and splurge on the St. Cosme Cote du Rhone Blanc! Taste the wine and then check out Spectator‘s and Parker‘s notes or Google it for more info. After I selected the wine I realized Gary V tasted this wine out not that long ago, too. So there’s lots of entertaining reading out there as you sip. Cheers!