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Archive for the ‘Food pairing’ Category

We be jamm’n

Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011 by Rebecca

Last Saturday night I visited with friends in Providence as part of a larger weekend of festivities featuring – dum, da, dee, dum! – attending the Newport Folk Festival together on Sunday. Naturally I would bring some wine for dinner. My best friend has an affection for Spanish reds; she and her husband are also fabulously hyper-local, urban farmers, so something from a sustainable or organic producer would be bonus.

While I find it is always good to have some kind of direction, this time I was actually at a loss about what would fit my general criteria. And then, just in the nick of time, last Friday afternoon my colleague and I happened to uncork the Honoro Vera Monastrell to evaluate it. Dan had discovered this new project (made from Organic grapes and hailing from Jumilla, Spain!)  from the folks at esteemed producer Juan Gil while I was away at Pinot Camp; it had just arrived on the premises, so he was particularly excited about it – and eager for me to give it a taste. I was excited that he was excited. It doesn’t happen like that everyday.

Made from 100% Monastrell grapes, the wine was opulent with succulent black plum, boysenberry and bramble fruit. It stopped me in my tracks. It was as juicy as it was accented with turned black soil, mushroomy earth and spice. Its silky smooth texture (my ultimate vinous pleasure) prompted an immediate high-five to Dan for “finding” it.

Over the weekend my friends were also “Wow’d”. (Gotta love when you hit the nail on the head.)

Then, the next day while we were at the Festival grooving to the sound of Brown Bird, my work caught up with me in the best possible way: I nudged my BFF, smiled and said I know I’m a wine nerd, but these guys sound like last night’s wine – his voice is rich, seductively smooth and thrilling; hers is the gorgeous, clean-cut note of acidity that brings it on home.

Heads bobbing, we wished we had another glass in hand.

Pairing: Garliky chopped sauteed kale and green beans; Grill-charred Salmon (with grilled sausage accompaniment optional)

the (optimal) wine experience

Friday, May 20th, 2011 by Rebecca

I often write about wines specifically, sometimes peppering in posts about a particular restaurant that’s caught my attention. Individually these are just a couple of ‘tools’ you can put in your belt on the quest for a fuller wine experience. Because wine, in fact, is all about the experience – who you are with, how your drink of choice pairs with a snack or meal of choice, ambience, service, etc. Any given wine experience may have any one or more of these various components. It is the intersection of parts that creates the bigger picture, hopefully of just plain old fun or (better yet) memorable elation. In my experience, these Moments are not something you can plan.

This week I had the great pleasure of joining a local wine colleague at dinner with Marchesi di Barolo’s Anna Abbona. Our destination? Somerville’s tucked away ‘hot spot’ Journeyman. I had yet to embark for Journeyman – not for lack of trying (note: they are closed on Tuesdays).  The praise has remained outstanding among my colleagues and so I was all the happier to have the ‘excuse’ to visit. To say it didn’t disappoint is not quite accurate. To say it Exceeded Expectations is closer to the truth: artisanal; attention to detail; hospitality; fresh; inspired; inventive. These are just a few words that Chef/Owners Diana and Tse Wei are beginning to redefine; the bar has been reset – so high in fact, I wonder if someone can top them. “Camberville“  is where it’s at.

Journeyman set the stage for an exceptional experience, doing their part (beyond the exceptional fare) by making very clever “beverage” pairings (with Sutton Cellar’s aperitif and Cisco Brewing Company’s Grey Lady mixed in to the fun of their wine pairing roster). However, meeting the captivating, bright (and also beautiful) Anna was truly a treat. This is a woman who is a crucial part of an elite, fifth generation wine making family in one of the world’s most important wine regions: Piedmont. I could wax poetic about her stunning wines (the 2007 Ruvei Barbera d’Alba and 2004 Cannubi Barolo made their presence known during dinner) as their sultry femininity, depth of character, expression of terroir and structure were enough to stop all conversation in its tracks. But I have to say it was her salt-of-the earth nature, openness about her experiences traveling, her insights about emerging wine markets and the focus Marchesi di Barolo will continue to maintain -  amidst ample laughter, her mutual banter and appreciation for the larger Journeyman experience and general frivolity that marked the evening tops in my books.

Indeed, I will happily return to Journeyman, though yes, this particular outing will remain on my Top 10 Boston Evenings for much time to come and it is likely it will never be unseated.

Among the grey-ist of Springs, it is now summer in my book! Thank you Anna. Thank you Diane and Tse Wei. Thank you Kathryn.

back to Alto Adige – with glee!

Thursday, February 24th, 2011 by Rebecca

I’ve never traveled to Italy for the purpose of wine tasting and so have yet to experience the Alto Adige region personally. Perhaps just through tasting wines from this region I believe it to be one of the most romantic places on earth. The area is uniquely situated between the North and the South, benefiting from the cool air of the Alps and the warm Mediterranean sun. Micro-climates and unique soil types abound throughout. It is a situation that is set up for greatness.

A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of joining a few colleagues out to dinner at Upstairs on the Square. My direct colleague and I remember enjoying our respective meals, but really we found ourselves fixated on our wine experience thereafter. And so we did everything we are lucky to be empowered to do: we bought the wine we enjoyed so much and put it on our shelves.

Naturally, as diligent professionals, we hem and haw a bit before we bring in just about any wine. There are only a couple of  ‘slam dunks’ that cross our path every month. And, in the case of our dinner wine,  we’re talking about a selection that retails for $50.  This price point is an entirely different playing field. We have to be WOWed. And wowed we were! The Lageder “Krafuss” Pinot Noir is an exceptional wine, and one that I’m happy to fork over the bigger bucks for with some regularity – well, given the right company or occasion as wines of this caliber should be shared.

Last night I had a really good excuse to open Krafuss once again: my best friend’s birthday. He had duck with a prune Port gastrique and I had scallops with black quinoa, prosciutto and a citrus salad.  Both worked quite well with the wine, in part because our respective meals complemented different notes in this delightfully complex wine.

Smooth and supple, it delivers a perfumed nose of roses, slightly smoked meats, and a mixture of sweet citrus, ripe cherry, cranberry and mascerated strawberry fruits – and a hint of dried ones as well. The palate translates directly, with a slight accent of orange rind and an underpinning of turned earth coming through as well. It was interesting to see how my meal with the savory prosciutto (smoked meats), citrus salad (orange rind) and black quinoa (turned earth) directed my attention to these notes particularly well in the wine while my friend experienced the dried fruits, including dates, apricots and prunes, in a more pronounced way (prune Port gastrique).

Once again Lageder’s Krafuss delivered a true wine experience. It is a wine you keep coming back to, putting your nose in it, tasting it thoroughly as it continues to open and re-deliver happiness. It is one of those rare wines I have no problem pacing myself on, because the experience of it overtime, with food and without, continues to enrapture; I don’t want to sacrifice one moment of it!

A few additional fun facts: Lageder has been up to such good for 175+ years. They are wholly committed to letting nature do the hard work, using modern techniques only if  they will further impress the flavor of the terroir and grapes in each of their offerings. And whatever your beliefs, this outstanding vin is also organic and biodynamic. It is part of the Tenutae Lageder line, which gathers fruit solely from their own estate.

rediscovering Italian wines

Monday, February 14th, 2011 by Rebecca

Now that it’s February and I’ve done a decent job of depleting my in house wine collection, I’m back to buying them. And for whatever reason I can’t quite explain, the last few weeks I’ve found myself bringing home more and more Italian red wines. While there are certainly many ‘giving’ Italian reds made (“giving” meaning they need very little time to open up as they are fruit forward and generally just kind of easy going) I realized I’ve inadvertently fallen prey to the over-simplified idea that all Italian red wines go best with pasta, hard cheese or red meats – three categories that I just don’t consume through the normal course of things (allergies are to blame!).

This perception is certainly perfectly accurate in its own right. Just as there are giving Italian reds, there are others that are less giving. These are much bigger, structured wines that really are most delightful when they are given ample time to open up (let the tannins soften, the fruit integrate with all the other lovely herbal and terciary flavors, etc.) AND when they have a hearty food match to work in tandem with the structure and flavor of the wine. Patience and some forethought about what’s for dinner go a long, long way. A decanter never hurts either.

God love them, this month vendors in our network have been bringing both hidden gems and well-regarded, more elite styles of Italian reds by the Tasting Station for us to suss out. One of my new loves? Schiava.

I’m sure I’ve chatted about Elena Walch in prior posts as she’s one of the most highly regarded female winemakers in the world. Her wines hail from the northern Alto Adige region of Italy. I have yet to taste one that isn’t well made and delicious. Leave it to her to make and export a grape (Schiava) that almost never leaves the country! Her 2009 bottling of this grape (said Ski-ah-vah) is the only one I’ve ever tasted; it immediately won me over. My first tasting notes read: “wow! This is a red Burgundy wine lovers delight with an almost Pinot Noir-like levity and texture and a nice focus of ripe cherry and black fruit (boysenberry, blackberry). Love the feminity, florals and subtle Italian nuance.”

It’s fun to get away from the same old same and enjoy something somehow familiar but new, isn’t it? And this one can pair with myriad things, from pork tenderloin topped with cranberry sauce or a mustard vinaigrette, roasted or fire-grilled eggplant and mushrooms with a balsamic glaze, even to tuna steak with a side of garlic roasted red potatoes. Manja!

What to do with left over bubbly? drink it!

Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 by Rebecca

Did you end up with a few extra bottles of sparkling wine after New Year’s this year? It seems to be the normal course of things – and many people hesitate to do the obvious thing with these wines, what with official “celebrations” behind us. But corks are meant to come out! Here’s how I’ve gone about tackling this delicious, festive, “problem”:

This New Year the Prosecco of choice for my friends and I was Santome. This is one I’m sure I’ve blogged about in the past, because it delivers lifted, just tart green apple fruit and lemon zest flavors; it’s more crisp, dry nature makes it a good one to make cocktails with if that’s your bag, but it is also delicious all on its own. For $12.99 you have no guilt opening bottle after bottle – and if you stick with it all night, you’re likely in a hangover free zone. But on December 31st we didn’t quite make it through the full case, so I anted up for game night last weekend. Santome was the perfect accompaniment to the deviled egg appetizers I whipped up.

Next, I pulled out the bigger guns in my repertoire…

In my bubbly archives, I discovered I somehow still had one bottle of the 1999 Pierre Morlet Brut. With good friends who enjoy good wine, why not pop a cork? They are meant to come out after all, so what more of an occasion do you need? And this wine had already been in bottle for more than a decade. So as the pork tenderloin rested and the cinnamon scented butternut squash mashed potatoes cooled a little, we popped the cork on this bad boy, too. It had a lovely mousse, with just the right amount of toastiness, red and yellow apple fruits, and a lithe lemon cream texture. A wild accent of hazelnuts mid-palate made this wine a favorite among the group.

After savoring Pierre, we finished our bubbly spree with the very dry, mineral-laced Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut. Another winner, we enjoyed the texture of this wine also, with fine bubbles bringing pear and red apple fruit flavors quickly to bear. This wine was particularly memorable for the previously mentioned minerality – a clean, wet pebble/chalky essence. Delicious vin!

Remember, you don’t need an official celebration or Real Occasion to enjoy sparkling wine. It is the most food friendly option available, pairing with every possible food, and delicious all on it’s own. As you begin to dig your heals into 2011, I beg you to take sparkling wine with you on your travels more frequently! Why not make an easy night in with friends that much more enjoyable?

How often do you drink sparkling wine?