While I find pleasure and comfort in routine, I find in my “old” age equal pleasure in stepping outside of the box. Enter Anne Amie and their special Pinot Noir Blanc wine. And, no, that’s not an oxymoron. Pinot Noir, like any red grape, can take the form of “blanc” just so long as the winemaker presses the juice from the skins so quickly after harvest that the pigment of the skin doesn’t impact the color of the wine – creating a white vin from red fruit.

Whilst frolicking, tasting and learning at Pinot Camp last July, I had the rare opportunity to taste Anne Amie’s “Prisme” Pinot Noir Blanc for the first time. Winemaker Tom Houseman was running around the giant tent at dinner, trying to find me to taste this 2008 vintage elixir of life. It is named after the word prism, which means the splitting of white light into its various colors – or essentially what Tom does with Pinot Noir grapes from their finest Pinot Noir vineyards to create this special wine. I had to know what this Anne Amie treasure was like, and Tom was on the task.

Prisme tastes like Burgundy – on both the white (Chardonnay) and red (Pinot Noir) sides of the spectrum. (It is the perfect convergence of my favorite wine experiences, offering a taste of Burgundy at the roots of Oregon soil.) The nose is pretty, warming and childhood-memory inspiring: for me that translates to a bouquet of white and yellow flowers (honeysuckle, dandelions and gerber daisies), creamsicles and nutmeg.  The palate offers not only ripe pear, savory yellow and tart granny smith apple, and meyer lemon citrus fruits, but also a toasty/creamy, cheese rind and ginger spice essence comes to bear due to 18 months of aging on the lees in French barrels. A helping of ripe raspberries and just a teaspoon of blueberry flavors dance along the finish, a flavor profile I am not unhappy to experience when tasting great Champagne made with an extra helping of Pinot Noir, actually.

Thankfully, Prisme has officially landed on our Massachusetts shores, just in time for the holidays.

“Sir? I have just the thing….”

The goal of the conference? To bring together about 250 representatives of the restaurant and retail wine biz to learn more about the area and why great Pinot Noir is made there. They also (smartly) provide a great opportunity to explore “The Great American Whites”, Oregon style, which may go more routinely overlooked, simply because Pinot Noir is the young region’s claim to fame. I last visited the region in 2005 and was thrilled to have the ‘excuse’ to go back and delve in further to this great wine producing region.

My personal adventure began a bit further south of the Willamette  – 5+ hours south, though still in Oregon – at Foris Vineyards. Foris invited me and 11 others from across the country to come in advance of Camp and explore what southern Oregon wine country has to offer. I’ve worked with Foris’ wines in the past (and in particular their Muscat frizzante) and was happy to have the chance to meet the owners, Ted and his wife Terri, winemaker Bryan and his sidekick Steve and the rest of the gang. They are salt of the earth people, with tremendous vision; I was lucky to start my trip with them and whet my whistle and appetite for Rogue Valley wines!

The next morning we were up bright and early to travel to Camp. We enjoyed a late “lunch” on Willamette Chardonnay and Crab, hosted at Argyle and further attended by folks like Chahalem, Ponzi, and Domaine Drouhin Oregon. What a way to begin! Soon enough we were checked in to our hotel and being shuttled (in yellow school buses) to the opening “games”. All 50 participating OPC 2011 wineries – an elite bunch – offered two wines to introduce campers to their latest releases while we ‘snacked’ on incredibly fresh and satisfying local fare. (This general theme happily presented itself throughout the trip.)

The next two days were a whirlwind of tasting, sharing, comparing and learning – each ending with a large-format tasting reception and dinner (dancing optional). I tromped through soil pits at Penner Ash, discovered the “multiple personalities of Pinot Noir” at Domain Drouhin Oregon with winemaker-led, blind tasting workshops that delved into questions of vintage variation and the range of styles that exist, learned more about biodynamics/organics, and farming for quality at Elk Cove and enjoyed a panel discussion about Oregon whites at Torii Mor.Camp was interactive bliss.

Long, love story short my affair with Oregon wines will continue. And in the coming months in particular, it will continue with Anne Amie (best in show, best QPR) specifically, but also as I seek out and enjoy the area’s 2010 whites that are coming to market now. They are spectacular, consistently delicious, vibrant, edgy, expressive wines – from Riesling to Pinot Blanc to Pinot Gris (Chard still hasn’t quite won me over wholeheartedly, though Chehalem is a strong exception). These whites will certainly tide me over this summer and early fall as the immature 2009 Pinot Noirs enter the market; these wines are NOT yet at their best and will continue to evolve into the best versions of themselves in the years to come. I encourage you to wait with me – and enjoy as many 2007s as you can find in the meantime. Like good Burgundy, these wines will be worth the wait!

A big thanks to all of the OPC organizers and the many attendees, new friends, who made the experience so memorable.

You know from previous posts of mine on the topic that rose is that special pink wine that is irrefutably dry. It is also something that is released early each Spring in order to be served fresh off the presses, if you will, and keep us refreshed during the warm months of the year. There is great anticipation each year when ‘rose season’ will begin, a sort of unofficial statement of warmer days to come.

For better or worse – not enough data points are in yet to be sure – the last few years we’ve noticed a trend whereby producers, importers and wholesalers seem to be in ka-hoots (sp?) to get the first jump on rose season. Last year’s (2009) roses from France (Provence being the most famous production area) offered a crisp punch, a happy marriage of minerality and ample fruit, which seemed in never-ending supply. We were grateful. Just the way we like it!

This year’s batch, the 2010′s, seem a bit lackluster as yet. They aren’t bad wines by any stretch of the imagination. But coming on the heels of such a lovely 2009 vintage, it’s hard to get as excited at the moment. We can’t help wonder if our experience thus far with Provencial rose (the main disappointment) is that the wines are being released TOO early. It’s possible the wines just need to settle in, get acclimated and integrated, to really deliver. But we won’t know just yet.

In the meantime, if  like me you are happy for the warmer days and want to scratch the rose itch, I recommend giving Provence a little time and trying other areas. Right now I’m digging a terrific rose from Bordeaux (you almost never see rose coming from this appellation) that is a blend of two ‘bigger’ grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; it is from Chateau Larroque. Next up is a new arrival VERY few were lucky to get their hands on this year. It is a rose of Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley’s Anne Amie made in the saignee method and aged ever so briefly in wood, which gives it a richer mouthfeel. Massachusetts was the only state outside of Oregon to get an ever-so-small allocation of 15 cases. Grab a couple of bottles now to get you over the Provencial hump!

Are you ready for rose season? Found any new favorites?

Wheeee!!

REDS

2007 Schloss Muhlenhof Dornfelder - This bad boy comes in a 1L size. I hosted a small affair last weekend and it could have easily been the only wine I poured (it was gone WAY too quickly!) – offering great, concentrated red berry fruit flavors (cherries, raspberries) in a smooth, sultry package. Generally speaking, this grape (Dornfelder, that is) is a German red wine phenomenon for those who like a lot of fruit, a bit of “lift” and a welcome bit of earthy, mineral-driven nuance to their wines. No lie, Scholss Muhlenhof’s is THE BEST I’ve ever encountered (so great is my love I’m tempted to buy a full case of the stuff to have on hand “just in case…” this winter). The extra glass the 1L size offers will NOT be wasted.  Only $15!

2006 Bethel Heights Eola-Amity Cuvee Pinot Noir -  A careful blend of 6 different vineyard sites, the  is a tremendous, mouth-filling example of Oregon Pinot Noir. Think of this wine as a smooth, deeply earthy Belgian truffle, filled with cherry and raspberry fruits. Truly a well-integrated, delicious wine worth the gentle splurge. (A winner destined for my own table.) About $31.

2007 Clos la Coutale Cahors – With the (worthy) Malbec craze stemming from the success of this grape in Argentina, many consumers forget Malbec is actually a French varietal. Many more do not know that arguably the best, single bottling Malbecs in France come from the Cahors region – and are labeled simply as such. This wine is  remarkably succulent, juicy and approachable. Enjoy black raspberry and blackberry flavors complemented with fresh strawberries! A touch of earthy rusticity makes this Malbec uniquely French. This one is a “bigger” wine than “traditional” Thanskgiving recommendations and would be a particularly good match for rosemary/garlic encrusted roast hen, or the like. About $17.

WHITES

Schoenheitz NV Edelzwicker - Edelzwicker means “noble blend”. Indeed this wine includes as many as seven different varieties from Auxerrois to Sylvaner. The result is suprisingly coherent and delightfully flavorful. Well balanced, dry Alsatian goodness, this is another wine that comes in the 1 litre size bottle. About $15.

2006 Clos de Rochers Pinot Gris – While Alsace, France has long been the place for rich, but dry Pinot Gris, this Luxembourg beauty beats them at their own game. Ripe pears and yellow flowers abound on the nose and coat the palette while brisk minerality keeps things dry and balanced. This wine is absolutely worth the splurge – and certainly a great conversation topic if the family gets a bit unruly. (This one will also be on my own table!)  About $22.

2007 Anne Amie Cuvee A Mueller Thurgau -Leave it to the folks at well-known Anne Amie Vineyards to deliver an exceptional, if not lesser known, wine. The Cuvee A Mueller Thurgau’s tropical and floral aromas could very easily be bottled on their own and used by aroma therapists to rejuvenate clients. Pineapple, melon and white peach flavors comingle with a perky taste of fresh lemon juice. About $15.

SPARKLING FUN

Villa di Corlo NV Grasparossa Lambrusco – Versatile, slightly sparkling, fresh, fruity goodness. Lambrusco is pink – and the best are oh-so-dry. This is a wine for guests who deserve and enjoy a break from the norm. This particular offering shows ripe raspberry fruit backed by a coy minerality. Perfect simply when you want to dazzle without effort. About $17.

Poema NV Brut Cava - Today, if you look for it, exceptional Cava is available at a fraction of the price of Champagne. Case in point: the Poema makes drinking bubbly every day (or in a large party format) oh-so-easy and affordable! This is a fun and versatile bubbly with subtle flavors of peach, pear and warm, toasted bread. A bit of orange rind on the finish adds additional intrigue and nuance. Enjoy this one before, during or after your meal. About $11.

Which one of these is likely to grace your table? Is there another you have in mind for the big day??

Moving right along, I was happy to stumble on a pretty great article about the regional typicity of California Pinot Noir – and a move by some to take into consideration how well a wine shows it’s true “roots” when it comes to wine scoring. The folks at Appellation America are introducing a Best of Appellation program. Click on the link to read more about the nuances you might hope to find in domestic Pinot, and how Appellation America is encouraging more focus on “terroir” (if I may be so bold as to use that term…) here in the US.

Then, consider this Wine Spectator article about Oregon’s new statewide certification for sustainable wines a teaser for my article in Wicked Local, due out Monday!

And last, but certainly not least, if you are looking for a great way to celebrate the warmer temps we’ll be enjoying this Sunday, sign up for the House of Blues Gospel Brunch. Divas Uncorked are at it again!

Any other special wine events you plan to attend in the coming week? Share the love so we can all raise a glass!

We’ve been tasting a bunch of Pinot Noir again lately at the shop. (A tough job, but someone has to do it!) We usually get on the Pinot tasting wagon around the winter holidays because it pairs so well with Thanksgiving dinner and is often a special selection at Christmas. Well, it turns out we’re at this crazy point in the year where two vintages are available: the 2006 vintage is still perfectly delicious, but the 2007′s are starting to get a bit more of a ‘push’ from salesmen.  Just this week Wine Spectator magazine reported the same thing via Monday’s Tasting Highlights article. And so here I am telling my own tale in the very, very informal “battle of the Pinots”.

First, let’s remember each vintage in each (sub)region of the world is unique. I recommend Googling various grapes and regions for vintage reports particular to a given year – and then reading a myriad articles for greater perspective on the lay of the land. Second, please, please remember good wine can be made in a bad year. That’s what we call winemaker expertise.  (Of course, pretty much anyone can make good wine in a good year.) Finally, each individual wine sings its own tune. So ultimately, you have to taste to know.

By point of reference, I found 2006 largely produced a solid batch of domestic Pinot Noirs. Of course there were some hits, some homeruns (go Pedroia and Varitek! ahem, sorry…) and some horrible misses. But for the most part, the wines are solid across the board. You simply need to know what style you prefer (ligher, earthier, meatier/fleshier, coca cola or beets, etc.) and ask your wine buyer which one is likely to suit your palate – but I argue 2006 Pinots largely don’t suck.

The 2007s, on the other hand, struggled out of the gates last fall. It was a rainy year here in the States, with varying results depending on when the grapes were harvested and how badly the rains fell in a given (sub)appellation. When we started tasting through these wines in anticipation of Christmas last fall, many were a bit rough around the edges, still tight and green and a bit disjointed, showing very little fruit at all. We suspected they just needed some time to ‘settle in’ and would improve in as little as six months.

Wouldn’t you know,  it’s been just about that time? Today, with some bottle time under its belt, the O’Reilly’s Pinot Noir is more reminiscent of its fan-favorite 2006 counterpart; the Siduri ’07 Pinots are absolutely sudductive; the ’07 Dobbes Family Estates Assemblage Cuvee (and their less expensive offering under the “Wine by Joe” label) are solid, solid wines; and…. the list goes on!

This Wednesday I encourage you to get out and about and try your own grouping of Pinots from both vintage years (whichever part of the world you prefer) and see which strikes your fancy!

Have you had your own 2006 vs. 2007 Pinot Noir taste-off yet? Were they from the same vineyard, or different selections all together? Tell us your impressions!

Well, I’ve learned my lesson. Pop on over to Wicked Local today to learn more about my adventures closer to home – and find out about a pretty great Pinot Noir to boot!

Since last week we talked about the awsome red blend SNAFU put out by the Local Wine Company, its only fair for me to let you in on the goodness that is their white wine blend: ’06 JuneHog Oregon White. Yum. Oh wait, but I’m getting a bit ahead of myself…

Ever heard of Mueller Thurgau? Mueller is another one of the man-made varietals we’ve talked about lately. Back in the late 19th Century Dr. Thurgau created this hybrid varietal. His goal was to create a grape with the intensity of Riesling but with the ability to ripen earlier; he used Sylvaner to achieve the latter.  He didn’t quite get an A+ on his project, but he didn’t do too badly either. Mueller wines are fruity, but low in acidity. They are medium sweet, too, and very smooth.  This varietal makes up the greatest component of the JuneHog, coming in at 33% of the wine’s juice.

The next largest component of the JuneHog is Gewurtztraminer, or the “spicy white grape” that actually got its start in Traminer, Italy, but happens to have a German name. Go figure! Gewurtz is sweet, spicy, fruity, full-figured and has gorgeous floral aromas. (Trade “secret”: Gewurtz is actually sweeter than Riesling!) This grape brings 22% of the juice to the JuneHog blend.

The third largest component of this fun blend is Pinot Gris (21%). Recall from earlier posts Pinot Gris is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. Alsatian-style Pinot Gris is full bodied and offers ripe-fruit sweetness on the palate.  These wines are down right lovely on their own, let alone in a blend!

Pinot Blanc clocks in at 16% of the June Hog blend, which gets finished off with just a touch of Riesling (5%, if I’ve done the math right). I’m not sure how much time we’ve spent on Pinot Blanc together. But the thing to know is when winemakers don’t oak it, or stir it on the lees or otherwise “interfere” with it, PB offers terrific apple and almond flavors. As such, it can be one of the softest yet lightest (read: high acid) white wines on offer. A treat on their own and perhaps even better in some blends.

What do all these various components mean for the JuneHog experience? Let’s put it this way: this is the wine I want to drink on a cool fall day when I’m sitting in my Adirondack chair on some beach or even on my front porch – glass of wine in hand, a blanket at the ready and my book propped on my lap. Something mouthfilling yet clean you don’t have to think twice to enjoy. Warm sun, crisp air, relaxation. (Snacks optional – but with this wine you won’t go wrong with the pairing you choose!)

What’s your favorite fall white (blend) this year?

If you’re familiar with the book Judgement of Paris or recently caught the Indie Film “Bottle Shock” you know a few Americans in the ’70s went “to the mattresses” to prove the quality of New World wines, as compared with those in the Old World.  The story of their dramatic debut on the world’s wine stage is noteworthy for many reasons. But first, in my mind, is what had to happen before they took their wines overseas. First they had to have the fire in the belly and the chutzpa to act: pioneers who took great risk in what Was Done and what was Not Done, to give birth to a much larger, global and hugely profitable industry.

David Lett was one of these men. In 1970 he and his wife planted the first Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir vines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon. (Today many of you appreciate the Willamette as the top Pinot Noir-producing region in the Pacific Northwest.) Just nine years later Lett showed his ’75 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir in Paris at the Wine Olympiad, earning top praise and notoriety. The next year he did the same in Burgundy.

Today the rest is history, with 300 wineries in the Willamette alone producing tasty Pinot offerings. They pay homage to “Papa Pinot” Lett. And so should we all this sad week in particular. Appropriately, Mr. Lett’s sons Jim and Jason (now lead in the fields and in the cellar) and his wife Diana plan to celebrate his life after the fall harvest.

What’s your experience with Eyrie or Oregon Pinot? How are you taking this week’s news?

But I’m jazzed about my topic for this Monday morning musing for another reason, too… remember last week we started talking about fall wine options? Well, for my white wine readers and gourd-lovers out there, I’ve also got some fall love to share!

Alsatian (style) Pinot Gris. Welcome to my happy place.

Let’s start with a few basics. This grape is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. It looks almost the same as Pinot Noir (right on down to its leaves) but the grapes have a blue-grey hue. This is where it gets its name. Varietally speaking, Pinot Grigio is the same grape and simply the name used by Italian wine-makers. (This should remind you of the Shiraz (Australia/New World) vs. Syrah (France/Old World) conversation we had a few months back.)

Here’s the thing. I don’t like Pinot Grigio. Don’t get me wrong. I know good quality Italian Pinot Grigio when I find it (so I’m happy to talk about it with those who do dig it), but it’s not my personal bag. I find they are more often too thin and too high in alcohol to meet my palate’s needs. I’m a sucker for bigger, fruitier whites, hence my appreciation of Pinot Gris. The Alsatian climate offers a warm, dry fall that allows the grapes to ripen fully; the grape’s full, ripe sweetness is its tell-tale feature.  What’s interesting is that Pinot Gris has become sweeter and sweeter in recent years, but often wine labels do not indicate any residual sugar remains. The CIVA (Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin d’Alsace) is trying to sort things out for consumers. The folks there are developing a system to help consumers navigate the range of Pinot Gris available, from sweeter to drier. (As you explore styles of Pinot Gris from Alsace, Oregon or elsewhere, be sure to ask your shop’s wine manager what’s what in any given bottle.)

Last week for our tasting we offered our customers a chance to experience the 2007 Helfrich Pinot Gris. For those who know what Alsace has to offer its Pinot Gris consumers, this wine sings true from start to finish. It is not a shy wine, offering a big, floral nose. It is equally rich and full in the mouth with the ripe fruit flavors carrying through to the palate. I was pleased to find the winemaker’s notes accurately suggest the wine also offers a touch of smokey spice. It was a great wine to have at our tasting; many customers were surprised by the wine’s sweeter edge. To me, the citrus and grass notes as well as its acidity impart a tremendous crispness to counter that effect and produce a well-balanced wine.

No surprise, I’m not the only one who is jumping on the Pinot Gris wine-writing bandwagon this fall. Katherine Cole took this topic for a test drive last week, in fact! I highly recommend checking out her musings and taking her up on her suggestions for other great Pinot Gris on the market. Oregon has been a hot bed for awesome Pinot Gris since the 1990′s, with it really catching on in the last several years. Be sure to try a few offerings from that part of the world also as you investigate this versatally-styled wine. And definitely consider popping a cork when you concoct a fabulous dish of squash or pumpkin goodness this fall.

Which Pinot Gris do you fancy? What recipes do you find are great pairings?