I heart Port. I have said this many times. So imagine my horror when one of the best in the Port winemaking business tells me they have done research…. and have found Americans are drinking Vintage Port younger and younger.
Five minutes later I was tasting the Burmester Vintage Port 2007. That’s somewhat normal in the trade, because that’s how we grow in our wine knowledge – knowing through a quick taste where Port starts, and, most importantly, gaining appreciation for where it goes. Trust me when I tell you the 2007 is some YOUNG stuff. The 2005 isn’t much better. Both are bitingly acidic, tannic and, well, as someone recently described too-young-stuff (who I really respect), I wanted to pull my gums out over my teeth. Yes, you may have guessed, that is NOT cool.
Port is something to behold. It is something that, when done well and has the right amount of age under its belt, has finesse AND structure. I like mine best when it has been aged for an extended period of time. Like 20 Year Tawny. Or the 1985 or 1990 Burmester Coleheita (single vintage, single vineyard Port).
Please readers. Do yourself a favor and contribute to a more efficacious marketing trend: stop buying YOUNG Port! This stuff is meant to be aged. It mellows, often gaining exotic brown spices, burnt orange peel essence, sultry caramel and vanilla notes, all on top of a luscious layer of fruit – whether stewed plums, figs or blackraspberries. Why give that up?
It’s worth the wait.