I heart Port. I have said this many times. So imagine my horror when one of the best in the Port winemaking business tells me they have done research…. and have found Americans are drinking Vintage Port younger and younger.

Five minutes later I was tasting the Burmester Vintage Port 2007. That’s somewhat normal in the trade, because that’s how we grow in our wine knowledge – knowing through a quick taste where Port starts, and, most importantly, gaining appreciation for where it goes. Trust me when I tell you the 2007 is some YOUNG stuff.  The 2005 isn’t much better. Both are bitingly acidic, tannic and, well, as someone recently described too-young-stuff (who I really respect), I wanted to pull my gums out over my teeth. Yes, you may have guessed, that is NOT cool.

Port is something to behold. It is something that, when done well and has the right amount of age under its belt, has finesse AND structure. I like mine best when it has been aged for an extended period of time. Like 20 Year Tawny. Or the 1985 or 1990 Burmester Coleheita (single vintage, single vineyard Port).

Please readers. Do yourself a favor and contribute to a more efficacious marketing trend: stop buying YOUNG Port! This stuff is meant to be aged. It mellows, often gaining exotic brown spices, burnt orange peel essence, sultry caramel and vanilla notes, all on top of a luscious layer of fruit – whether stewed plums, figs or blackraspberries. Why give that up?

Come on.

Don’t.

Buy.

Port.

Too.

Young.

It’s worth the wait.

Enough said.

The New England Patriots got the nod this year to play opening week’s Monday Night football – as it happened, not just on a gorgeous night in Mass., but with the re-introduction of Tom Brady to the line-up. (Yeah, we’ve lost a few of our key defenders; but we still have Belichik. And we still have one of the top QBs in the league, even if he is a little banged up and not my personal favorite beyond the playing field.)

What’s a girl to do on such a momentous night? Make pizza. From scratch. And enjoy exceptional wine(s) – during the preparation process and throughout the meal!  What better excuse do you need to open two of the most highly sought and difficult to find wines in our market: Spencer Roloson Grenache Blanc and Grenache Noir? (Note, the former was enjoyed throughout the preparation process and the latter for the meal and game time festivities!)

Last Spring my “buddies” Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher wrote about the Grenache phenomenon in the US. I was thrilled by their musings. Yet, the only two Grenaches I’ve really been completely thrilled with coming out of the California winemaking community are both executed by Spencer Roloson. And they are hard to get your hands on!

Their Grenache Blanc is, quite simply, a rare treat. It is robust, lush, fleshy/fruity (think quince, citrus and pears) – almost perfect for Chardonnay drinkers looking for something different or unique, but more for the nerd drinker in each of us because of its incredible layers and unsuspecting earthiness. It’s one of those wines every person I’ve ever introduced it to has enjoyed, no matter their usual wine drinking habits. It is a true, special and quasi-celebratory wine because it is so difficult to find and oh-so-satisfying on so many levels.

Their Grenache Noir is also a wine of true grace and panache… that’s also a “teeth sinker”. It is freaking delicious (a technical term…), offering concentrated red berry fruit with some herbs and a sprinkling of burnt orange peel. It finishes bittersweet, like the chocolate. YUM. This wine was a really nice, luscious pairing with our pizza topped with rosemary roast chicken, fresh pineapple, buffalo mozzarella, black pepper and basil. I wish it was 24 hours ago now, as I write this post….

Suffice to say, we’re now officially in Football Season. I like a good beer with my  ball. But a great wine – or two – is far more memorable. Cheers to Sundays!

What’s your go-to Football wine?

Westport Rivers Winery in Westport, MA first captured my heart 3 years ago with their 2001 Imperial Sec sparkling wine, which is made from the more exotic or a-typical varietals of Riesling and Rkatsiteli.  Tasting others from their line up, I was pleased to discover their winery was the exception to the “rule” as far as local Massachusetts wine goes….

Other folks in and around Massachusetts haven’t been able to do what Westport Rivers has achieved even since then because of two reasons, as far as I can tell. First, they have a truly coastal,  cool climate location.  Second, their wines have a sense of place; each wine represents a unique terroir, (so much so that universities have trekked down yonder to take soil sample after soil sample, run tests, and discovered which myriad soils are present on their 140 or so acres. This research has helped the proprietors plant different varietals in specific soil types). Westport Rivers wines exhibit a uniquely satisfying old-world sensibility, with new world panache.

Maybe one day Westport Rivers will be able to solely produce their exceptional sparkling wines. In the meantime, interested sippers can also bring home their well-balanced Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, or Rkatsiteli among the whites, as well as Pinot Noir rose for the reds or Pineau de Pinot as a dessert wine/aperitif.

The one to catch my particular fancy this season is their rose of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is one of my absolute favorite varietals – and I hold out every year waiting for the best possible expression of it as a rose. This year Westport Rivers delivered the goods. The nose is quiet, exhibiting just a hint of baby roses, smoke and cherry fruit. The palate delivers a crisply satisfying, dry, light package of cherry and strawberry fruit; a unique, almost saline minerality quenches your thirst – and soon enough you’ve put quite a dent in the bottle!

In next few and last (sadly) weeks of summer, seek out rose with great gusto. You’ll probably find a few deals on the market – and if you’re lucky, you’ll be revived with a splash of ocean air and memories of cold-box red and berry fruits. Yum.

Which Westport Rivers wines are your favorites?

Ok, ok. It’s “old” news, technically speaking. But how often have you actually come across a glass wine closure? I think I’ve seen about a half a dozen over the last year – and I know I’ve seen close to 1,000 wine bottles uncorked. That’s a pretty small percentage!

Yesterday one of these half dozen wine bottles/closures came across the tasting table. And so we got to talking about it. Did you know Alcoa, the closure company initially responsible for this phenomenon, started the wine bottle glass closure after success with it on medicinal products? No joke. These guys are responsible for the closures on household products, juices and sodas, medicinal products and, since 2006 or so, wine bottles.

What I love about them is the (surprising) seal these things allow! And you can pluck them out of the bottle and fit them securely back in to it if you don’t quite finish it off. Back in 2004 Business Wire described it as such: “The Vino-Lok closure looks like a decorative decanter stopper, and it is recyclable. Made with rubberized O-rings, the glass stopper provides a sterile seal, preventing contamination or oxidation. An aluminum cap over the bottle will ensure mechanical protection and temper evidence.”

Recyclable, too? Does it really get any better?Apparently they are working on it! This is just the beginning for them. The question is though:

How many times have you had the pleasure of encountering an Alcoa closure? When will this become more “mainstream”?

Yes, there are the ABC wine drinkers of America – “Anything But Chardonnay”. And their club was probably worth forming back in the day given the prolific amount of lackluster Chard on the market, practically flowing with splinters from over-oaking. Before I “officially” became part of the wine world (professionally) I may have even been an “unofficial” member….

What I learned quickly is there is a lot of juice on the market. Some of it is good. Some is ok. Some of it is just plain undrinkable. And, of course, everything in between and beyond! It is not right to discriminate against a grape – or even a style – entirely. You have to be on the lookout for the exception to the rule, the producer who is going above and beyond to let the grape’s natural fruit flavors emerge, or the terroir shine through. We’ve said it time and again: wine making is both an art and a science.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards is the diamond in the rough. Arguably they have a few advantages working for them. They are a South African winery – one of the Southern most in fact, located on the Cape of Good Hope in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation. South Africa also has it’s own unique terroir – vineyard site to vineyard site, of course, but also in broader terms than, say California. South Africa’s location and aspect on the globe, let alone its unique soil types, maritime influence and the like, will bring to bear additional nuance to a wine you might otherwise think you’ve “tried”. The Russell family is savvy, too, focusing their efforts exclusively on producing exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

I had no extraordinary cause to pop the cork on the 2007 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay (which retails for about $26) other than the end to a gorgeous weekend, and the start of a tremendously delicious meal. I served up a plate of grilled pineapple and veggies – summer squash, zucchini, plumb tomatoes, vidalia onions, and snow peas – dressed in a touch of garlic and a soy/honey marinade.  I threw in a helping of grilled shrimp, seasoned with a touch of red pepper and Old Bay spice.

Enter the Hamilton Russell Chard, a gorgeous wine that happily continues to change and evolve at first sip, with food, and again after you’ve finished your plate.  As you continue to retaste it, various components tackle your tastebuds. The flavors? Imagine a bowl of apricots, a ring of freshly cut pineapple, and juicy, ripe pear slices all squeezed with lemon juice and then tossed with a great helping of taught minerality. Its backbone of minerality is most intriguing, almost forcing you to question whether you had in fact opened the Chard. But then its satisfyingly rich texture brings you back home again – you know all too well Chard is more of a sultry, curvy broad, like Joan from Mad Men. And this wine is absolutely that.

Most memorably, the Hamilton Russell was an absolutely stunning complement to my meal. It proved to be The Perfect Pairing, as the wine and the food both showed even BETTER when partnered up.  We all strive for such an experience; yet it is a rare treat when a wine and a dish don’t just go well together, but each gets better in the company of the other.

This one really is one to behold – and one that’s so dynamic even my description leaves room for you to add your own insights. This wine is that good – and that good at defying “the odds”.

What wine made you a believer in the “exceptions to the rule” caveat?