Beaujolais Nouveau release at Midnight tonight!

Before Harry Potter book signing parties, there were other parties, wine parties, that came more frequently than those of the Harry Potter variety. They came every 3rd Thursday in November to be precise. And the tradition lives on.... Just one week before Thanksgiving stacks of the colorful Georges Duboeuf's famous Beaujolais Nouveau are sent out to wine shops from Beaujolais, France (think Southern Burgundy where Pinot Noir thrives). Wondered what it is? Beaujolais is a wine made from a grape called Gamay. The Nouveau style is made through a fermentation process called carbonic maceration and is released super-duper fresh, i.e. from harvest to bottle to market within mere weeks! It is intended consumers drink this wine young, and certainly no longer than 6 months. Why? Well, Gamay is a low-tannin varietal, which makes it optimal for those who prefer a light-styled, fruity, fruity wine. But even with it's naturally high acidity (another "age-worthy" component for wine), the fact that the wine goes through carbonic maceration hurts the wine's natural ability to age.

The hoopla of this catch-and-release process began in the late 1800s. Locals recognized this light-styled red wine was perfect for the transition between seasons and the unofficial 'switch' from white to red wine drinking - and they made a party of it (just imagine! pitchers of wine from the barrels were on offer!!) while the more grand Beaujolais wines were still working their mojo and evolving. The French government decided to reign in the revelry a little bit in 1938 and then in 1951 declared the "3rd Thursday in November" rule.

I don't mean to mislead you, however. Georges Duboeuf isn't the only producer of Beauojolais Nouveau; he's just the most famous because he produces so much of the stuff. Regardless who's Nouveau you select to sip, expect tooty-fruity red berry flavors. It's not my bag, though I have come to appreciate Beaujolais/Gamay when on offer from one of the premiere villages where the wine hasn't been quite as fast-tracked, e.g. Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Fleurie and Brouilly. Those wines tend to offer a bit more complexity - a touch of earth, a touch more depth, and a touch of tannin to offset all of that boisterous fruit! Their light style, much like Pinot Noir, is indeed a great complement to your turkey dinner.

So the question is... will you Nouveau?

earthy genious in a bottle of cab franc

I love Cabernet Franc. There, I've said it. I know many people who are disinclined to this often vegetal-tasting/smelling grape varietal, but I quite enjoy it. Perhaps you've had it and you haven't even realized it. It is a grape that often plays second or third fiddle in Bordeaux blends. If you're palate has taken you to the Loire Valley of France and you enjoyed a red wine from Chinon or Saumur-Champigny, you've enjoyed this varietal on its own. Likewise, you may also have tried a bottle from a California producer, where the grape is increasingly getting a chance to play the lead role. But if you're really lucky, you'll have tasted some from the Finger Lakes region of New York State. The Finger Lakes is an up-and-coming wine region here in the US. Cold as You-Know-What up in those parts, the Lakes do play a critical role in moderating the otherwise frosty climate. With proper vine grafting, Riesling has done tremendously well (as has Chardonnay). In fact Dr. Frank's Rieslings are thought to rival those of Germany's Saar region. Reds are starting to get some more attention, too. Cabernet Franc from this region has even caught the attention of world-reknowned wine writer, Jancis Robinson. And with good reason.

My mentor gifted me a bottle of Red Newt Cellars' 2004 Cabernet Franc several months ago. She knows my palate enjoys a good frolick with cab franc and she is in the less-inclined category I mentioned earlier. She is also from upstate New York and knew this would be a good opportunity for me to taste this up and coming New York state wine - wines that are nearly impossible to get hold of here in Massachusetts. I knew it was going to be a fun wine to drink so I bided my time waiting for an opportunity when the weather (temperate) and my dinner menu (something "earthy" involved, e.g. mushrooms, eggplant, rosemary, etc.) were in sync.

Only the comfort of Chicken Marsala, garlic/rosemary mashed potatoes and snow peas would ease our pain from having watched Tom Brady injure himself in the first quarter of last Sunday's game. The evening was gorgeous, too.  And so the stars had aligned to pop the cork of the Newt Cab Franc in my cellar.

What we found was a treat. Red Newt Cellars produced a lighter-styled Cab Franc, with gentle tannins and moderate acidity. The fruit was the most distinguishing characteristic, offering bright, ripe red fruits - cranberry and raspberries seemed most evident to me - followed by soft spice and earth. In a blind taste test I may have said it was a Pinot Noir - being both more accustomed to the bigger, bolder Cab Franc offerings I'm used to drinking from CA and lacking (in a refreshing way) the strong bell pepper notes so often evident in wines from the Loire.

True to form (having experience the wine for myself first), the next day I took my notes and went online to see what the winemaker or other "experts" had to say about the wine's characteristics. The winemaker certainly hoped I'd have the experience I did! For the 2005 vintage he writes, "cranberry and raspberry with overtones of smoke and spice make an elegant red that shows well young and ages beautifully. Cabernet Franc is one of the most promising red varieties ever introduced in the Finger Lakes. Structure is typically complex, complete but delicate. Color is moderate to dark and tannins soft." Complete but delicate were probably my happiest memories of the wine - I couldn't have said it better myself!

What's your experience with Cab Franc? Are you as inclined as I to pick up a bottle? Or, is this a new one on you - and one you might take for a test drive in future?

que syrah, shiraz!

You've heard me talk about Syrah here and there over the months. This is because I'm a huge fan of Rhone Valley (French) wines, both Northern and Southern alike (though for different reasons). Syrah is a grape you'll often find blended along side it's happy varietal partners Grenache and Mouvedre in the Southern Rhone in particular. I love these wines. They have boisterous fruit, a hint of spice and a rustic edge. Syrah got it's known kick off in slightly cooler parts of the Northern Rhone. What do I mean by "known"? Well, the grape's precise geographic origins aren't fully known with speculation the Greeks or the Romans had something to do with it. Nevertheless, in the village of L'Hermitage, named after the chapel that sits at the top of the town's primary hill, Syrah has its claim to fame. (The nearby Cotie Rotie is also well-known for it's Syrah.) The Northern Rhone boasts a cooler climate than its Southern counterpart because the Mistral winds bring cooler temps down from the Massif Central. Getting too technical on you? No worries... suffice to say it's consistently cooler up North with few microclimates to permit variation vineyard to vineyard. That means there's less opportunity for many different red grape varietals to thrive. In the North, Syrah can work its mojo. In the South, Syrah is one of 20 other major grape varietals that flourish - hence all the blending down in those parts (it's so fun!). Meanwhile, the French have done the only thing that could be done: mandate Syrah is the only red grape varietal permitted in the Northern Rhone's AOC wines.

Syrah is a "big" red grape. It is very dark in color, full bodied, fleshy and full of tannin. I always associate black pepper spice with these wines and look forward to picking out the myriad of potential aromas on the nose of each different Syrah wine. Sometimes it's all violets, sometimes a bit of cocoa, and other times its all big, blackberry fruit. At the end of the day, they promise to be supple, sexy, smooth wines.

I often get the question "So, what about Shiraz?". Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, genetically. The minor name variation is just an Old World v. New World phenomenon. The flavor profile of Syrah vs. Shiraz wines certainly vary though. This is based on the winemaking style and climate of the wine's origin. For example, Syrah from the Northern Rhone (and generally, other Old World areas) tend to offer a little less fruit, a little more smoke and a bit more subtlety in the many flavors that coalesce in the glass. Typical of New World winemaking practices, Shiraz wines from Australia or California tend to put their fruit foot first, their pepper foot second and otherwise tend to be higher in alcohol (due to the warmer climates from which they hail).

Neither Shiraz nor Syrah is better than the other; it just is what it is. The trick is to taste a few offerings of each. This way you'll find your personal preference between the two styles. And before you taste, it's a good idea to decant. Younger wines will lap up the oxygen on offer and provide a more integrated, 'evolved' flavor profile, if you will. Older wines relish the chance to throw their sediment (into the decanter, rather than into your glass).

Which syrah/shiraz style do you prefer?

Spain is king of World Cup, Wimbeldon &...Wine production?

If you watched the final match of the 2008 Euro Cup (Spain won vs. Germany) and/or the phenomenal Wimbledon Men's Final where the Spaniard Rafael Nadal eventually won a nail biter against Roger Federer, then perhaps it is no surprise to you Spain is now also on course to "win" top seed as the world's largest wine producer. (In case you're wondering, yes, I already proclaimed "wine is a team sport". But I was getting more at sportsmanship, rather than the idea of winning or losing....). Back to the wine then, it seems beyond important things like heritage, culture, tradition, and number of suitable grape-growing acres, sound economics matter a heck of a lot, too. What am I getting at? Well, apparently the French are drinking less domestically (French young'ns just aren't enjoying the stuff with as much vigor anymore, tisk, tisk!). But a big(ger) part of the challenge they face is actually a national, industry-wide failure to 'keep up' with market trends - and up and coming wine regions globally where wine is "better" packaged, cheaper and modernized (from techniques employed, to use of screw caps, etc.).

Unlike the sports pages these days, I haven't read one article yet where the Spanish are interviewed about this likely takeover in 2015. I wish I had found one. Those offering French perspectives indicate they are ready to fight the good fight and determined to make a comeback (before one is technically necessary in seven years time). They don't want to lose their crown, of course. And the scare is in them! They recognize they need to make a few adjustments to compete globally.

I don't pretend to know or even fully appreciate all of the nuances that have contributed to this pending "doom" for the French. (There's a great Time article from a few years ago I forgot about, which the folks at Vinography reminded me of when I was looking for a bit more perspective on the topic. It's worth the read if you have a few minutes over lunch today.) But I'm also convinced the French are the least likely in the wine-producing world to want to lose their earned status as quality producers just to edge out the Spanish on the Quantity Produced playing field. So I'm wondering how this is going to pan out.

What I do know is I want my French wines. I want them to be top quality. And I want to pay the price they're worth.

What's your take on all this?

food & wine, a river, a park, some bands and a good cause

Romance is half the fun in the world of wine. Every movie is chalk full of great imagery, enticing viewers to hit the riviera and sip a cool glass of rose, picnic on a hilltop overlooking the vineyard below, or dance around barefoot in a great big vat of grapes. Music and terroir are always part of the equation, too. If you thought you couldn't live a romantic food/wine life in the Boston suburbs of Medford/Somerville, here's your chance to test the theory! This Saturday from noon to seven the Mystic River Music Festival will bring together all the necessary ingredients for a fabulous afternoon - and all the proceeds from your snacking and imbibing will go towards a great cause, the Mystic River Watershed Foundation.

I spoke with Brian Lamb, full-time owner of Our Glass Wine Co. on Route 1 and part-time mastermind behind this great event. It seems that the Condon Shell (a Medford mini Hatch Shell venue, if you will) was the inspiration behind the event. A long-time lover of the site, Lamb approached Mayor McGlynn with the idea to use the Condon Shell for an afternoon of entertainment. McGlynn was more than happy to get on board. The Shell had been recently re-acquired by the city of Medford and McGlynn had hoped to bring music and the arts back to Medford. This was a perfect opportunity.

The event will feature music from local bands, grilled fare provided by Whole Foods, crafts by local artists, and other local vendors committed to all things Green. Perhaps most noteably (from my perspective), the wines on offer will all be organic selections.... and there are some TRULY phenomenal ones in the mix.

Here's a quick preview of just three of the many wines available on Saturday:

2007 Jelu Torrontes ~ Everyone knows Argentine Malbec. Well... Torrontes will have the same U.S. following as the leading white wine varietal coming from that part of the world soon enough! Not bitter at all (as some Torrontes can be) this wine is the PERFECT summer sipper. It offers gorgeous ripe fruits, healthy acidity and a nice medium body allowing it greater food pairing versatility. A welcome treat. The Cafe Europa team is responsible for bringing this little number to the event's wine roster.

2007 Mas de Gourgonnier Rose ~ If you've tasted the standard red Mas de Gourgonnier (in the crazy, 'fat' bottle with the long neck) you know you're in for a treat with this rose. This vineyard has been making organic wines before organic was "in". And this rose is one of the best out there. It offers fabulous summer strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, but is refreshingly crisp and dry (as all great rose should be). A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault and Cab, it can hold up to serious BBQ magic, too. Ideal Wine Imports are responsible for bringing this to a store near you and will be donating this selection to the event.

2005 Vinos Pinol Sacra Natura ~ This is a red wine blend from the Terra Alta region of Spain (near Priorat, south of Barcelona) where the soil lacks optimal nutrients; this causes the vines to 'work harder' and results in fewer bunches but more concentrated fruit. The Sacra Natura in particular hails from a vineyard boasting 95 year old vines (read: even more concentrated fruit). A robust blend of Cariñena, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Syrah and Tempranillo, this wine does not hold back. Ole Imports & Ruby Wines will be donating this bad boy.

Rain or shine, the Condon Shell should be your local event stop this weekend!

So, what are you waiting for? Do you plan to be 'romanced' in Medford?

More on the pink stuff!

A couple of weeks ago I was on deck pouring a "sippy sip" of four different wines. Since it was bloody H O T that week in Boston, it was only fair to choose wines that were thirst-quenching or perfect for grilled fare. A South African Chenin Blanc, an Italian frizzante-styled white, a Spanish rose, and an all-American Zin were on offer. The tasters enjoyed the Chenin more than any other selection but the Rose stirred up the most conversation.... When I posted last month about rose I spoke more about what it is (juice pressed from red grapes after short-lived skin contact, so as to impart a touch of color, body and texture) and what it is not (sugary sweet!). What I didn't really get into is the myriad styles that exist. Between reps absolutely clamoring to sell the shop their rose wares before it is too late in the summer and the many conversations I had at the tasting a couple weeks back, I can't help but go into more detail today.

Let's start with the Spanish rose offered at the tasting because it goes against the grain by blending in white wine, too (egad!). Typical to the Rioja region's approach to rose, the Muga Rosado 2007 is a blend of Grenacha, Viura (a white varietal famous in the region and often used in Cava production) and Tempranillo. The wine sees about 12 hours of contact with the grape skins, resulting is a distinctly salmon color. It also is aged in wooden vats for 25 days (another Rioja/Spanish characteristic, as they are the country most famous for oak application), which contributes a touch more oomph to the wine and a certain toastiness, too. The addition of Viura is no doubt where this wine achieves its subtle tropical fruit flavors and aromatics.

Next, let's venture to France, a region well known for it's rose. I tasted Louis Chave's 2007 rose of Pinot Noir and it knocked my socks off! This wine is classified as a Vin de Pay d'Oc (or table wine). Perhaps because of this designation, I couldn't dig up more about this intriguing, delicious wine - so I'll stick to it's flavor profile and encourage others who might know more on its context to comment below. A light watermelon color, this wine has a gently, "dusty", floral nose. It is in the French style, so beautifully dry, offering simple red berry fruit flavors, just a touch of tannin and subtle, food-loving acidity. Bottom line: this wine smelled and tasted like a pinot, but dialed it back a touch to rose levels of thirst-quenching, grilled chicken-loving, yumminess.

Traveling back to Spain - because this wine was that good and 100% rose of Merlot (very cool) - let's head north to the Penedes region where Cava (Spanish bubbly) is king. The 2007 Avinyo Vi d'Agulla Rose was quite a charmer. It had a beautiful, rosey, Merlot nose. There's no other way to describe it; it just smelled like Merlot should! On the palate, it tasted like the winemaker had put rose pedals and strawberries together in the blender and then liquified them into a refreshing, slightly bold libation. This wine had terrific balance (neither fruit, nor tannin, nor acidity overwhelmed more than it should). But what I liked most about it was that it was dry but offered a refreshing crispness, and was completely worthy of a pairing with bolder meat dishes.

Hopefully this quick sampling of rose styles is enough to wet your whistle and send you heading for your local wine shop! If you are wary to experiment, start simple: pick a wine from your favorite region of the world, or your favorite grape, (or both, if you can find one!) and go from there.

Have you tried a rose before? What's your pick this year?

navigating food/wine pairing for 4...

Last Friday night I was taken out for a fabulous meal at a great, well-regarded restaurant I hadn't been to somehow. We thought the menu looked gorgeous and then the food came out even more artistically presented and attentively cooked than I've had the pleasure to enjoy in some time. But I digress... The table's biggest wine nerd, I was asked to select a bottle of wine for all to enjoy. Each of us selected a completely different entree, however, so it was no easy task - and I sense one that many of us grapple with when out with a group. Fortunately, when it comes to food and wine pairing the goal is to take things to an even higher level. It is hard to absolutely ruin a culinary experience. Think of it this way: the food can be great and the wine can be great; in an optimal pairing the two are AWESOME together. An imperfect pairing usually just means that the wine is good and the food is good. Neither destroys or substantially enhances the experience of the other. (Only when you choose a big red wine with fish can things go truly poorly - the fish ends up tasting like you're chewing on tinfoil, or metalic.)

Our dinners consisted of steak, duck confit, lobster and salmon and our host preferred whites to red. Immediately I hoped for one of the quintessential great-pairing whites on the list: dry Reisling, Albarino or even Gewurztraminer. But the white wine choices consisted of a few Sauvignon Blancs and a few oaky Chards. The SB's would have been too "sharp" to complement the beef and duck, and borderline at best given how the salmon and lobster were prepared. A buttery, oaked Chard would have been perfect for the lobster, our host's selection, but would undermine the other dishes. And at a restaurant like that one, the food deserved the attention, not the wine.

What was a girl to do?! Default to a versatile red: Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is one of the most finicky grapes to grow and make into wine (hence the often higher price tag). It requires perfect weather conditions (warm days and cool evenings). And even when all the forces of nature align, the vines yield low levels of fruit. So you're starting with less. But it's high acidity and low level of tannin can be the makings of fabulous, lighter-medium bodied, silky, gently fruity, earthy and barely tart (read: food friendly) wines.

I wasn't directly familiar with any of the three Pinots available. There were two offerings from Burgundy, France and one from Oregon. Burgundy produces drop dead gorgeous red wines but because of the finicky nature of the grape, each vintage really matters. Only the best domain's make consistently solid wines even in an off year. I wasn't familiar with either of the producers listed and didn't see any of the acclaimed (prohibitively expensive?) vintages either. And then the obvious choice leapt from the pages: an Oregon Pinot! Pinot Noir from Oregon is often sexy, with delicate texture, and soft cherry and plum fruit. I find they are often less rustic than their earthier French counterparts, too (which I love but would be less appealing to others in the party). Jackpot!

If I had taken a poll I think all of us would have agreed that the food far surpassed the wine selection on Friday night. The food was THAT good and the wine was served a touch too warm and had an unexpected kick to the finish. But all in all, it was a tasty wine that complemented our range of fare just fine.

What's your "go to" food-friendly wine?

Wine Blogging Wednesday: Cote du Rhone Blanc

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday! And so it is I have the occasion to divert from my typical blogging approach to bring news of a gorgeous, supple white wine from the Cote du Rhone, France: 2006 Chateau de Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc. But first a brief introduction to this Wine Blogging Wednesday I speak of.... WBW was started about 4 years ago by Lenndevours to bring a virutal wine tasting to the global masses. A theme is selected by the monthly host and then wine bloggers select a wine they've tasted based on the theme and post their impressions on the applicable day. This month Dr. Debs is our guide. She had the brilliant idea of selecting the Cote du Rhone whites as the theme.

For me this month's "assignment" was a pleasure. The Cote du Rhone could be my favorite region in the wine making world. There is enough variation from the North to South to keep things interesting and challenging, too. The reds are full of character, offering a great sense of place and tradition - one that my palette adores. The whites are often seductive and refreshing. (Note: of course these comments are sweeping generalizations for a large and distinct region, but for the sake of keeping my posts relatively reasonable in length, I can't help but tempt you to explore for yourself. The Rhone is quite fun!)

There are nine grapes of the Rhone. The St. Cosme blends 4 of them: 50% is Roussanne and the rest is Picpoul, Clairette, and Marsanne. Roussanne and Clairette are perhaps two of the most aromatic and elegant grapes in this area - and the St. Cosme surely benefits. Marsanne and Picpoul are more often used as blending grapes (though I've had the latter on it's own and it is quite fantastically refreshing and versatile). Ok, so those are the grapes... "What about the wine?!", you ask?

I was shocked by the St. Cosme's stunning gold color. I couldn't wait to put my nose in the glass! I gave it a swirl and initially found the nose to have hints of petrol followed by intense, ripe pear aromas. As it opened and warmed slightly (it has been HOT in Boston), honey notes emerged. My first taste did not disappoint either. It had an incredible, fleshy-full, mouthfeel and flavors of pear and other tropical fruits danced around in my mouth. It paired well with my meal, too: cucumber dill & walnut salad, grilled tandoori chicken and red potatoes. This wine received my highest "rating": YUM!

I believe every taster has their own experience with and impressions of a wine; that's why I don't blog to rate wines, but rather focus on giving you the 'back story' or other tidbits about wine to increase your curiosity to play (read: taste) as much as possible. After tasting a wine for myself, I often investigate to see what other's think. Sometimes I completely agree, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I laugh at how someone can say a wine is "close to being outstanding" (first, what exactly does that mean??) and then rate it only 89 points.

My recommendation? Go out and splurge on the St. Cosme Cote du Rhone Blanc! Taste the wine and then check out Spectator's and Parker's notes or Google it for more info. After I selected the wine I realized Gary V tasted this wine out not that long ago, too. So there's lots of entertaining reading out there as you sip. Cheers!

a French kiss

At a wine tasting party in April I told my client's guests that to me, there's nothing better than a wine with a killer barnyard nose. "Manuer," they asked skeptically? "That's it," I replied happily! The French are just so darn good at getting the terroir (read: earth, climate et. al. from whence the grapes were grown) into the wine. I'm not saying the wines I love taste like manuer. Of course, not! For me the kiss of French terroir means that wine is part of a uniquely local, mini-ecosystem and critical wine-making process that makes the wine unique. As I'm sure you've noticed, I find this all fascinating to study. Limestone, clay, stones, sand.... As soon as I did, my wine appreciation and pleasure sky-rocketed because I had a broader context to reference (e.g. France, the winemaking history/tradition, the types of soil, the culture, the food...).

While the concept of terroir is not limited to France, it sure has gotten a reputation there and elsewhere in Europe. Here in the US it may be too soon to tell how much the flavors of the earth are getting into the wines. These things can take a few years as the newer vines mature and produce more concentrated fruit. American vines are but wee toddlers in comparison to older vines of Europe!

I think the great debate that sometimes pops up around whether or not there is truth to the impact of terroir on a wine is a bit cr*p. (I can't help but wonder if we Americans are just too marketing/sales-oriented and stodgy to appreciate someone else's fine work - not to mention centuries perfecting it!) Each wine making region, wine maker, the vineyards and those who work them play an important role in producing a wine. Isn't it just refreshing to think that each of those fingerprints leave their marks?

What are your sediments (no pun intended)? Are you a believer in the impact of terroir?