Wine musings for every palate

At last! It's Friday. After what feels like a longer week than usual (perhaps St. Patrick's Day had something to do with it?), this Friday it feels only natural to offer up a more random smattering of news headlines, wine musings and event updates than usual.  Much like wine can, I like to think I'm serving up a little something for everyone today. So here it is! Sting is making his own wine. Indeed. I've seen this bit of news posted by every possible media outlet. If the wine is as good as the coverage he's getting, we're in for a treat!

Merlot might be getting its second wind. I've been noticing the same thing myself, but this week Gaiter and Brecher conducted a hearty taste-off to see if the grape nearly sentenced to death by Miles is worthy of a reprieve. I was a little disappointed to see the duo reflect on mainstream offerings, but by the same token felt it was an interesting experiment - and certainly a testament to good Merlot being quite delicious. I for one prefer it 7 out of 10 times to Cabernet Sauvignon. Ask your local wine buyer what unique example they have on hand and give it a swirl!

If there is an opportunity to link wine with sports, you know I've scored court-side tickets, am sitting behind the dugout or rejoicing on the 50 yard line. Once again Grape Madness has developed a wine bracket in celebration of March Madness. Maybe you'll want to come up with your own version of this fun little game, but I can't resist passing it along. Thanks go out to Robert Dwyer for reminding me about this annual wine diversion.

Finally, for those of you around town looking for a fun night out in support of a great organization, WGBH is hosting a Wine Auction run by Skinner Auction House. The event will be a week from Saturday, on March 28th. Check it out!

Open That Bottle Night wine report

I hope you and yours had a wonderful time popping a cork or two last Saturday night for Open That Bottle Night. For my part, a handful of my closest friends descended on my place for a wonderful meal of braised paprika chicken, orzo and lemon-garlic asparagus. We started with an appetizer of oysters, a small aperitif of exceptional Dolin Dry Vermouth and a glass of white Bordeaux ('06 Ch. le Tucau, Graves). Then with dinner we moved on to our "serious" wines - those we had been saving for whatever special occasion had yet to materialize. I wasn't exactly sure what my bottle of Spanish wine from Terra Alta, Spain would bring - but I had high hopes, too. This isn't a region you often see here in the States; my bottle was actually hand-carried back from Barcelona by my best friend after her wedding there.

The Terra Alta D.O. boasts only 28 vineyards. The region is characterized by its Mediterranean & Continental climate (very cold winters, very hot summers), steep slopes and valley floors, and its proximity to its better known neighbor, Priorat. The cierzo breezes from the northeast do their part to keep the grapes dry, preventing rot. Terra Alta is considered an up and coming region, with many winemakers experimenting with better known grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which have been permitted since 1995. More often you'll find native grapes Garnacha Tinta and Carinena as well as Garnacha Peluda and Morenillo, as far as the reds go.

Doing my best to navigate the Catalan description on the back of the bottle, I anticipated the Ede Aria 2003 would be a big boy, with need of decanting.  The wine was a blend of three grapes: Garnacha Peluda (40%), Syrah (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%). My inspiration for the paprika braised chicken was distinct from the wine I knew I would have on offer, so decanting was a priority to soften any rough edges and remove the sediment the wine was likely to throw. Since I know my friend prefers fruit-forward wines to uber-dry ones, I hoped this wine would deliver a nice silky mouthfeel, with both red and black fruits apparent. Finally, given the region's proximity to the Priorat, I hoped it would have a gentle herbaceousness and a touch of earthy leather. I was pleased to discover it delivered on all of the above!

The other two wines we opened Saturday night were the 2004 Stevenot Tempranillo (Sierra Foothills, California) and the 2004 Villa Antinori Toscana (Tuscany, Italy).

Yes, Saturday evening I traveled the world with my friends! It was a pleasure to do so.

What wine(s) did you open for OTBN? Any highlights or disappointments in the mix?

winter whites: (Tocai) Friulano

"Wanna get away?" If you, like me, reside in a place where falling snow is a telltale sign winter is fully underway, you are often thinking of an escape to other places. Sometimes we are so lucky to just up and go. And sometimes we have to find other ways to scratch the itch and explore something new, that makes us feel like we're getting away. I've learned winter is not a time to abandon whites. In fact, they are often the perfect thing! Last weekend, with snow in the forecast (again), I decided to live vicariously through my culinary escapades.... And haddock with a mango salsa, lemon roasted potatoes and (interestingly) roasted spears of sweet summer squash were just my ticket! Truth be told, I had been eying a brand new white we had just brought into the store and knew such a fresh take on a winter warming menu would be a perfect match for my wine of the weekend. I popped the cork on the 2007 DiLeonardo Toh! Friulano and dug in.

Friul-what? Free-u-lano. This is a mouthwatering, fleshy, medium-bodied white from Italy's northeastern-most region: Friuli. This area of the world offers views of both the Alps in the distance or, perhaps better yet, the Adriatic Sea. There they experience a humid Mediterranean climate, with colder winters and warm summers (of course, these days I'm more focused on the idea of warm summers...). Like all great wine-producing regions, a place does it's best work when they cultivate varietals that work best with their unique conditions. The wines coming from Friuli, most noteably (Tocai) Friulano are said to rival the greatest wines of Tuscany and Piedmont. The fact that the majority of these wines are white makes them, in my opinion, that much more desirable. (Afterall, if I want a great Italian red, it's true I usually pop on 'over' to both Tuscany and Piedmont accordingly; this way Friuli has a special place in my heart.)

So why do I keep putting parenthesis around "Tocai"? Well, here's a fun fact: the EU recently mandated wines from this region drop the "Tocai" so they are not "confused" with Tokay from Hungary. Yes, Tokay is a dessert wine. And no, Tocai Friulano tastes nothing like it. But, it's true, both are absolutely scrumptious in their own right. And I guess it could be confusing... Whatever your opinion, moving forward you'll only see "Friulano" on labels, after the indigenous grape varietal itself.

Back to my weekend escape, the Toh! truly is a beautiful wine with an exceptionally good QPR, retailing for ~$12. Gotta love that. The nose on this wine simply bursts with aromas of flower blossoms and recently-picked pears. Medium bodied, it coats your tongue with pear and tropical fruit flavors (think honeydew melon and mango). Rich and long in the finish, its tremendous acidity and touch of minerality will leave you utterly fulfilled - and perhaps even running for your bathing suit! The Toh! is lovely on its own, but it was even better with my fish and roasted veggies. Truly, this is the white you just have to try.

What winter whites have you been escaping with these days?

winter wines uncorked: baby Brunello

Italian wine production is much like its history and tradition: dynamic, rich and... complicated. Despite this sometimes intimidating complexity (in terms of wine laws, in particular) every time I pick up a bottle from the Tuscan region  I am transported to clarity. Tuscan wines are a consistent articulation of what I appreciate most about good wine; they are a liquid language, translating a uniquely local art, history and culture. The wines are fulfillingly layered with flavor, quenching your thirst for what it is you really seek: pure pleasure. Brunello di Montalcino is one Italian wine Americans have sought with great gusto. Something like 1 in 3 bottles comes to the US.  So many of you might already know that Brunello isn't a grape, and it isn't a region. In fact, it is just the name for these marvelously bright and fruity, yet rich and broodingly elegant wines made from the Sangiovese Grosso grape clone. This clone is specific to Montalcino, a village about 70 miles southwest of Florence, in the Tuscan wine region;  the wine's name translates simply as Brunello of Montalcino.  By law the wines are aged for a minimum of 2 years in oak and 4 months in bottle before they are released. They are serious wines; like the great Bordeaux's and Burgundy's of France, age works in its favor, delivering its greatest gifts only after a decade... or more.

With great wines (and particularly those that are aged for some time) often comes some  expense. It's a real challenge to find good Brunello for under $25-30. Enter Rosso di Montalcino! This is a wine alternative to Brunello. It is also made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso, but is made from younger vines and is only aged for a minimum of 6 months in oak and only held 1 year total before release. It is a more approachable style for consumers that allows Brunello producers some cash flow, while they wait for their Brunello's to age.  And it costs consumers 1/3 - 1/2 the price of a Brunello. This is a little something we like to call a "Win-Win"! I'm all for them.

I had the pleasure of tasting the 2002 Marchesi Cattaneo Rosso di Montalcino last fall, but just recently sought it out as one of my winter warmer wines. Minestrone soup was on the menu and I wanted something food-friendly that would warm me up and offer a fun escape from my day. The Marchesi was a no-brainer.  My friend came over and we popped the cork. And boy, did it deliver! It had an enticing and telling nose, delivering sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit, a dash of dried herbs, a bouquet of violets and a welcome touch of chocolate. Lush... mouthwatering... goodness! I couldn't have been happier - or more fulfilled on a cold night in Beantown.

Which Rosso di Montalcino warms your heart these days?

Entertainment in a bottle: a few fun headlines from over the holidays

You know you're back from vacation when it takes you at least 2 or 3 times the amount of time it normally would to undertake just one, every day, item on your list.  Yes, I've been trying to get caught up on all of my wine industry news,  sifting through the virtual paperwork to bring you a few headline highlights this Friday.  A few winemakers have passed on (too depressing to write more about in the New Year, but you can hop over to Wines & Vines to learn more); several wineries are set to open or expand their lands; and there's been some 'action' in Bordeaux (Ch. Latour is on the market again and there is on-going banter about who is In and who is Out as far as their Classification system goes).

But today, since I'm not quite ready to give up the New Year celebrations, I bring to you two headlines about bubbly that happened to grab me for personal reasons....

Christmas morning I was determined we would not only have our traditional breakfast feast, but we would also enjoy lovely mimosas with it. The trick to a good mimosa is not necessarily good bubbly... it is, in fact, a noteworthy float of Grand Marnier. But I digress. In choosing a bubbly, I usually opt for a basic Cava; in this case, my Mom's local store had an ample supply of Freixenet Brut.  Perfect.

I know many women are afraid to actually open a bottle of bubbly. I am not one of these women. I have only had success in gingerly coaxing the cork from the bottle, with only a few occasions when the temperature of the wine or too much giggling in the car set the stage for a bit of overflow upon opening. Of course, we can't always be perfect - and you are even less likely to be so when you most want to avoid additional scrutiny from the likes of your nudging siblings. Suffice to say, I nearly took my brother's eye out as I readjusted the (too thick) towel I was using and the cork (not one that moved at all while I was attempting to "coax" it out, mind you) flew out across the room into my mother's (inactive) fireplace.  Sigh... You win some, you loose some. I heard about it after for days. Fortunately, I have a sense of humor about such things. And it certainly got the festivities in motion!

Ironically, just two days prior to this "incident", a fabulous little piece on this very phenomenon - cork speed - was issued. A German scientist actually clocked a cork at nearly 25 mph. Impressive! (Granted, it was a shaken bottle, but still... I believe it!) Check out additional details here.

Once back in Beantown, I was back in the shop to help with New Year's Eve madness. The boys brought in a new, easy-drinking, dry little bubbly from Italy - an Italian Chardonnay Brut by the folks at Borgo Maragliano (they make one of my favorite Moscato d'Asti's, "La Caliera"). It was retailing for only $9.99 - even better! This little wine ended up being our top seller, no doubt because the price was so good and it is decent juice after all. But in checking out headlines, it seems like Italian Sparkling is on the minds of more than just greater Boston residents.  Better-known sparklers like Prosecco, Moscato d'Asti and Brachetto d'Asti are responsible, but it is interesting to see Italian bubbly gaining serious momentum in the European market... Read more here!

Did you let a few corks fly over the holidays? How fast do you think they were moving?

a bit on bubbly: prosecco

If you recall, last Wednesday we launched my December series "a bit on bubbly" and talked about Growers Champagne. I didn't go much into the production process - or the flavors, for that matter - spending more time talking about the technicalities (and economics) of what makes Growers Champagne special and distinct from the bigger houses' offerings. I promise to circle back to these lovely wines before we ring in the New Year - because I definitely was inspired by many of the wines I was privileged to taste last week, and you really only get the "excuse" to buy expensive bubbly once in a while! But in the meantime, I think its important we move on to a different sparkling wine: Prosecco. Prosecco is Italian for bubbly. Well, nearly... Asti is the better known of the two predominant sparkling wines the Italians produce; but increasingly Americans have figured out Prosecco equates quality bubbly from Italy, at an affordable price. Venetians, for their part, turn to it daily; lucky devils!

This wine is named for the largest proportion of grapes used to produce it (with small amounts of Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio permitted for blending, if the winemaker chooses) and hails from the northeast Veneto region. It is widely considered more fruit forward than traditional Champagne, allowing those who sip it to revel in its dominant, crisp, apple flavors. It is also made in a slightly different way, using the Charmant method. Unlike the Champagne method, secondary fermentation (necessary to "trap" the CO2 and create those lovely, flavor-filled bubbles) occurs in large, pressurized tanks rather than in the bottle. This keeps the wine fresher (best drunk within 6 months to a year of purchase) and affordable. Yippee!

There are two Prosecco's I am quite enamored with at the moment: Santome Prosecco Extra Dry NV (~$13); and the higher-end, Adami Giardino Prosecco (~$19). The Santome is a steal. There are no two ways about it. I am happy to have it on its own, lapping up every pearl of ripe apple goodness, but have no qualms making a good mimosa with it either given its affordable price. It is "Extra Dry", which traditionally means slightly sweet (or off-dry); I find it errs on the drier side, therefore making it even more versatile and food-friendly.

As for the Adami, well, now we're cooking with gas! Adami has been making Prosecco for nearly a century and is considered one of the country's top producers - with good reason! The Giardino is straw-gold in color, which almost deceives its incredibly rich, almost a-typical, velvety mouthfeel. Flavors of apples and peaches remain refreshingly crisp though, with a touch of minerality coming through particularly well on the finish. It's hard to complain when something so lush is on offer! Last time I had it, I paired it with sushi. Cheers to that match!

These two favorites aside, there are many worthy Prosecco's on the market that easily transport you to Venice.  So, tell us, which is your passport Prosecco?

inspiration, hope, delight and a bottle (or two...) of wine

I was blessed with three things this Thanksgiving: inspiration, hope and pure delight. Since wine happened to be the catalyst for all three (and I feel like all we hear about is bad news these days), I can't help but pick up my blog after the holiday weekend and share some positive goodness. Inspiration. I've never had so much fun interacting with wine customers than last Wednesday night at the shop. People were looking for nice bottles of vino to accompany their meal, serve as delicious liquid 'balm' for potentially awkward family moments, or otherwise thank their host for their hospitality. People were simply in good spirits, looking forward to a few days off and satisfied bellies. Their bottle of vino was something they not only wanted to complete their meal, but to say something more, too.

Hope. People weren't panicking. Some were looking to spend less per bottle so they could buy more than one more easily, but I couldn't help but notice I was helping customers select more expensive bottles of wine for the occasion. (There is so much good juice at various price points I had anticipated helping folks find the perfect bottle anywhere from $10 to $100 - not more consistently in the $20-$35 range, which I did often.)

Delight. As I dressed my table, roasted my bird and prepared the delicious trimmings, it was lovely to open the bottles of wine I finally selected for the occasion (after much deliberation - after all, I am a Virgo with sometimes too much wine knowledge for my own good!). They were exactly what I hoped would delight my taste buds and guests.

Our pre-bird snacks were accompanied by an old favorite of mine (though the latest vintage which I had not yet enjoyed), the 2007 Guidobono Barbera d'Alba. I call it my fireplace wine; it is so approachable and versatile I can enjoy it with a variety of foods - or simply stick my feet up in front of the fire and sip. The 2007 is perhaps less complex in flavor than 2006, but it is no less satisfying. It was perfect for me to sip on as I put the final touches on the meal, enjoyed my guests and snacked.

Our main meal featured the 2006 Hillinger Small Hill Red, a truly fabulous, character-driven, soft and supple Pinot Noir/Merlot blend from Austria. In case I haven't mentioned this wine here before, I will say it now: to me this wine is like the big, holiday bonus you didn't know you were getting (it shows you the respect you deserve, but does so with unprecedented sophistication and grace). A lovely knock-out!

All of these things were enough to put me in the holiday spirit. This week I'll be getting out my decorations and thinking about wines to delight us all as Santa slides down the chimney in but 25 days time!

How was your Thanksgiving? What wine(s) did you select for the occasion?

Wines for Fall, aka Wine Blogging Wednesday

Once again I find myself scribing another Wine Blogging Wednesday post so quickly, it feels, since the last. Fortunately this month's theme does not stray beyond the parameters of my own Wine Wednesday series of late: Wines for Fall. Russ at Winehiker Witiculture is October's host. Given his passion for the great outdoors and wine, it is no surprise he chose a linking theme: "Which wine will you pour in the great outdoors?" This may be the first theme I didn't even think twice about. For me, the Great Outdoors means a nice bike ride, a grassy knoll and  - if my romantic destiny is every fulfilled - a picnic blanket (with some fall leaves scattered here and there) and a bit of sweet bubbly.

Brachetto d'Aqui is one of the greatest forms of bubbly I have encountered. These wines, named for the grape used (brachetto) and the area from which they hail (the Piedmont, Italy DOCG, Asti), are perfect "Picnic Wines". Just two weeks ago I was sharing this theory of mine with a couple of colleagues. They couldn't have agreed more as we tasted Garitina's 2007 Brachetto d'Aqui release. And we thought 2006 was a good year for this wine. Hello, fresh, ripe, red raspberries and strawberries! Tiny, tiny, bubbles that funnel up to your nose bringing scents of baby roses and violets? Check! Mouthwatering acidity? Check! Gentle tannins to coax your desire for a gorgeous brunch spread?? Check! A sweetness that simply satisfies you??? CHECK!

I don't think Carrie ever unpopped the cork of this small production (aka special) wine with Mr. Big, Miranda, Charlotte or Samantha - but at least one of them should have. Lightly sweet, pink bubbly is the absolute perfect thing when a picnic blanket, red berries, peach tarts, marscapone or pastries are involved. Chocolate, well, now there's a match made in heaven, too. Friends or lovers could actually be considered optional it is so charming all on its own.

User-friendly tips: A traditional "champagne" cork is NOT used for this wine, much like the Moscato d'Asti I blogged about last WBW re: wine & politics. So make sure you have your corkscrew on hand. Champagne flutes are necessary only if you feel so compelled - no need to run out and buy any.

What's your outdoor wine of choice this fall?

wine blogging wednesday - a toast...

Wine Blogging Wednesday themes never cease to entertain me. This month they're a bit behind schedule, but then again, that seems to work with the theme... A Toast to the End of the Bush Era . I don't usually mix my politics and my wine, so I hope my readers will forgive this inadvertent aberration. In appreciation of your understanding, I will do my very best to keep my comments neutral and focus on the wine I selected this month for this special occasion. Have you ever had the absolute pleasure of drinking a Moscato d'Asti?

My love affair with Moscato d' Asti goes something like this... It doesn't matter if I'm celebrating something in particular and want to have something with a touch of bubbly. It doesn't matter if I've made a fabulous Thai dish or spicy curry for dinner. It doesn't matter if I just want a touch of sweetness after my meal, in lieu of "official" dessert. It doesn't matter if I'm heading out on a picnic (this concept is more of a fantasy for me than something I actually do, for some reason, but I know this would be a perfect wine for that also). And it doesn't matter if I'm settling in for another late-morning brunch watching Sports Center. These wines always scratch the right itch for me.

Northeast of Alba, in the mountain-enclosed region of Piedmont, Italy, you can find the signature grape Moscato turned into all of its magical, wine goodness called Moscato d'Asti. Technically Muscat Bianco is an ancient French varietal that goes by several different (similar) names - and is thought to be the oldest grape known to man (I just love that fact!). The practice of making this wine in a lightly bubbly, or frizzante (fizzy) style via the charmant or tank method began in the 1870. It is delicate, lightly sweet and gorgeously fruity. Winemakers must keep the alcohol low, with a maximum of 5.5% permitted by law. This means very little of the grape's natural sugar is convereted into alcohol and wine remains, you guessed it, naturally sweet! These wines are also stopped with a regular cork because the wine is under less pressure than other bubblies like Champagne, Cava or Prosecco. If you pick up a bottle you'll notice it is vintage dated (and meant to be drunk young and fresh). Drink it chilled and serve it in a regular wine glass. The bubbles are small and long-lasting on their own.

The wine I chose for this "assignment" is the 2006 Borgo Maragliano 'La Caliera' Moscato d'Asti. There is almost no information available on this wine, but fortunately I have a connection with the importer that allowed me to get an inside look...

La Caliera is made by the Galliano family who owns the 35 acres of vines on their property in the smallest DOC in Italy, Loazzolo (boasting 350 people). There is a long history and tradition in the area for making Moscato d'Asti, as I mentioned before. So while the Galliano's make other bubbly wines, this is their flagship. The name 'La Caliera' is actually a tribute to their neighbor, who was described as a generous, kind and warm-hearted woman with a noble and quiet character ~ that which is reflected in the old, limestone and marl vineyards on the property.

Smelling the wine makes you feel as though you've just entered a great, big garden. The wine offers unique aromas of fresh violets! As you take a sip, honey, peaches and apricot flavors dance on your tongue. Its trademark finish is lively, long and luscious and will leave your mouth watering from its vibrant acidity. Suffice to say, this is a wine every great leader should have in his/her repertoire. It delivers only sweet success! (How's that for neutral "political" commentary?!)

Cataratto ~ a unique find

Though it's raining and 63 degrees here today in Boston, it's still summer. That means our wine reps are bringing out all the clever white wines they can find to further enhance the shop's boutique selection of wines - before it gets more permanently chilly and whites lose some of their selling power. Yesterday I had the opportunity to try Cataratto, an interesting native grape varietal from Sicily, Italy, TWICE. It used to be (and perhaps still is ~ reports vary) the second most planted grape varietal in Italy. Still never heard of it? It also is/was more often used as a blending grape in wines like Marsala, you know the wine you've probably at least had once as part of the veal/chicken dish you ordered at your local Italian joint. (We'll save the longer story on why Marsala has been relegated to cooking status for another wine Wednesday post. Back to the specific wines then...)

The first offering of the day was the La Piazza Catarratto (100% Catarratto), a wine that sees no oak but does undergo some malolactic fermentation. Why do these details matter? When you're tasting a new (to you) varietal for the first time it is always interesting to find out how it was made to understand how 'authentic', if you will, the flavor profile is. Since this 100% offering is fermented in stainless steel tanks, the fruit's flavors unto themselves are better preserved. No oak nuances would be present in the wine. The malolactic fermentation process however can impart a creamier mouthfeel/texture, which may distract from a full appreciation of Catarratto in its birthday suit. Either way, I must admit I was pleasantly tickled by this wine (and it's low price). It offered notes of apricots and honey and then also delivered some citrus and light cream (the latter profile likely the result of the malolactic fermentation it underwent). It wasn't hugely layered with flavor, but for an everyday Italian white wine, this wasn't bad at all. A solid first impression was had.

Later in the day another rep strangely/ironically came by with a Catarratto/Grillo blend, made by Ajello and under the name Majus. Very cool once again. Grillo is also a native grape to Sicily (translates to cricket) often blended into Marsala. But it is becoming more and more known in the US as one of the best whites from the region on offer. It typically brings flowers and citrus to the table, with some tropical fruits and spice, too. It's a great match for fish dishes (think Mediterranean culture of the island). The blend of the two grapes was quite a delicious result! It had some umph to it, too. (I'll have to keep my eye out for another 'straight up' Catarratto sans malolactic fermentation, sans oak treatment, to see if that extra umph is something the varietal brings all on its own.)

Have you crossed paths with Catarratto? What's your take on it?