Z-Why Yes!-Gelt

Ok, so it isn't really spelled that way.... But it certainly makes me want to run out and get some! Zweigelt, that is, a little Austrian red wine goodness that's perfect for this time of year.  (It's said Z-vye-gelt, if my title was of no use to you this delightful, holiday Monday!) What? Austrian wine? WHAT?!

Yes. Austria! I'm too young (if I do say so for myself) to really remember the (drinking) days when Austrian wine was a horrifying "No, No" - and, frankly, my experience with Austrian gastronomy has only been pure pleasure. (Who doesn't love herb-encrusted game? Cured meats? Hard cheeses? And delicious, oh-so-delicious, sweets!) I think of the Alps, the fascinating history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and those fine foods before I recall Austria has had its sad disaster of a period in modern wine making history.

To refresh your memory, Austria used to be known for its sweet wines. Things only got tricky in 1985 when a group of corrupt wine brokers tried to salvage poor harvests by adding diethylene glycol (found in antifreeze, no joke...) to the wines to increase the sweetness and then, worse, sell these wines as legit for a decent profit. I think NOT! Well, it didn't work out so well for these greedy businessmen; but it did ultimately work out well for serious winemakers. Austria can now boast the strictest wine laws in the world. And that's saying something when you recall the restrictions offered up in France and Italy, for example.  It also allowed serious winemakers to refocus their energies on making truly fabulous, dry wines.

Austria may still churn out 80% white wines (Gruner Veltliner is the major player on the white stage), but their reds are something to behold, too. Zweigelt is a test tube baby, or a man-made hybrid of St. Laurent (Austrian clone of Pinot Noir) and Blaufrankish. Why man-made? Well, Pinot Noir/St. Laurent is a tricky, tricky grape to grow because it is so delicate and, therefore, suseptible to so many different vineyards pests (bugs and birds alike), climatic challenges (frost, heat, hail, etc.) and even the human touch.  Zweigelt is less prone to frost, bud-breaks later and becomes a more mature fellow (ripens) earlier in the season. This is a godsend in Austria where the weather is a bit, shall we say... chilly?

Zweigelt is a white and red wine drinkers happiness. And it is perfect this time of year when you are thinking about the light fruitiness of Gamay (aka Beaujolais) and want something with a bit more character for both a warm day and cooler evening. The best part is that Austrian wines can be very reasonably priced - they do, afterall, have to redeem themselves in the global market!

If this is a new grape to you, try the Sepp Moser Zweigelt. It should retail for about 10 bones. It delivers cranberry and cherry fruit right up front and center stage. It can be a little on the tart side on the back palate and as it finishes, but I don't mind it (and I usually do!). The flavors in this little wine gets me excited about fireplaces and Thanksgiving dinner to come!

Are you a Zweigelt lover? Have you gotten (back) on the Austrian wine bandwagon?

wine & baseball?

Red Sox fans were so wrapped up in ending the 86-year Championship drought back in 2004 everyone had some "thing" they were doing to keep the Hope alive and end The Curse. The team was taking a (group) shot of Jack before each World Series game. For me it was wearing different red and navy gear and watching the game at a different bar each night. Since we were moving venues with great regularity and - let's face it - wine options were pathetic and/or scare, I did my part to "rehydrate" the Sox (if you will) by consuming noteworthy quantities of Hoegaarden beer. I ate a lot of french fries, too, but that wasn't as intentional. When we won again last year I was happily consuming the 2005 Winner's Tank Shiraz. That selection was too perfect. I only happened to grab that bottle out of my wine fridge because it was a solid pairing with our meal that night. The fact that we won in only 3 games, well, who could have guessed? But I do believe the Winner's Tank contributed in spirit to our glorious victory.

As we are revving up for a fight against Tampa Bay (or so I hope) in the ALDS finals I've been contemplating what truly is the best pairing.  As I said, I'm not wholly committed to the idea that wine and baseball are the best pairing, despite last year's go. My second question is what do you drink in anticipation of greatness (or at least a hell of a good fight)? Yes, folks, herein lies my greater quandry.... Should such things even be planned? I may be a Virgo, but I do realize there can be a Planning Line.

What's your wine & baseball philosophy? Are they a match?

unlock the magic this fall: alsatian-style pinot gris

Last week here in Beantown the weather went from gorgeous fall to stormy insanity. In some ways this is a wine buyer's dream. There's no other time of year where you can pick wines for the weekly tasting to straddle the warmer/colder, sunnier/rainier line and scratch almost every consumer's itch. And since there's so much new juice on the market, we can also introduce our customers to new products. See? There's always a silver lining (even when you now have a natural swimming pool in the backyard...)! But I'm jazzed about my topic for this Monday morning musing for another reason, too... remember last week we started talking about fall wine options? Well, for my white wine readers and gourd-lovers out there, I've also got some fall love to share!

Alsatian (style) Pinot Gris. Welcome to my happy place.

Let's start with a few basics. This grape is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. It looks almost the same as Pinot Noir (right on down to its leaves) but the grapes have a blue-grey hue. This is where it gets its name. Varietally speaking, Pinot Grigio is the same grape and simply the name used by Italian wine-makers. (This should remind you of the Shiraz (Australia/New World) vs. Syrah (France/Old World) conversation we had a few months back.)

Here's the thing. I don't like Pinot Grigio. Don't get me wrong. I know good quality Italian Pinot Grigio when I find it (so I'm happy to talk about it with those who do dig it), but it's not my personal bag. I find they are more often too thin and too high in alcohol to meet my palate's needs. I'm a sucker for bigger, fruitier whites, hence my appreciation of Pinot Gris. The Alsatian climate offers a warm, dry fall that allows the grapes to ripen fully; the grape's full, ripe sweetness is its tell-tale feature.  What's interesting is that Pinot Gris has become sweeter and sweeter in recent years, but often wine labels do not indicate any residual sugar remains. The CIVA (Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin d'Alsace) is trying to sort things out for consumers. The folks there are developing a system to help consumers navigate the range of Pinot Gris available, from sweeter to drier. (As you explore styles of Pinot Gris from Alsace, Oregon or elsewhere, be sure to ask your shop's wine manager what's what in any given bottle.)

Last week for our tasting we offered our customers a chance to experience the 2007 Helfrich Pinot Gris. For those who know what Alsace has to offer its Pinot Gris consumers, this wine sings true from start to finish. It is not a shy wine, offering a big, floral nose. It is equally rich and full in the mouth with the ripe fruit flavors carrying through to the palate. I was pleased to find the winemaker's notes accurately suggest the wine also offers a touch of smokey spice. It was a great wine to have at our tasting; many customers were surprised by the wine's sweeter edge. To me, the citrus and grass notes as well as its acidity impart a tremendous crispness to counter that effect and produce a well-balanced wine.

No surprise, I'm not the only one who is jumping on the Pinot Gris wine-writing bandwagon this fall. Katherine Cole took this topic for a test drive last week, in fact! I highly recommend checking out her musings and taking her up on her suggestions for other great Pinot Gris on the market. Oregon has been a hot bed for awesome Pinot Gris since the 1990's, with it really catching on in the last several years. Be sure to try a few offerings from that part of the world also as you investigate this versatally-styled wine. And definitely consider popping a cork when you concoct a fabulous dish of squash or pumpkin goodness this fall.

Which Pinot Gris do you fancy? What recipes do you find are great pairings?

red wine and vegetarians, an oxymoron?

Last week a woman approached me on one of the first very cool evenings of the fall here in Boston. She explained she is a vegetarian who loves a great red wine. She told me all summer she had been drinking white because it was warm enough for it, but in her heart of hearts she really preferred reds. What did I recommend? It is true that white wines and vegetables do go well together. Certainly when fresh greens, vegetables, fruits and berries are at the ready in the summer and great big salads are more often on the menu, this is a natural choice. But white wine and veggies don't always have to be partners in crime. This is especially true this time of year when the weather is starting to turn and you are eager for a taste of red wine to warm you up!

The keys to your fall/winter veggie success? Here's a clue: think about what else happens more naturally when it is colder out and you enjoy to cook...

I'd be surprised if your answer didn't have something to do with turning on the oven and stove again. That's right! Cooking techniques can vary a heck of a lot more in the cooler/colder months because you aren't adverse to inadvertently heating up the house. And where wine is involved, you should remember from my earlier posts how you prepare a dish can drastically alter your ideal beverage options.

Another part of your answer likely has to do with the types of vegetables available to you. Case in point: my conversation with this woman quickly turned to the full-figured "earthy" vegetables available in the market this time of year. She and I started planning menus on the spot, dreaming about an enchilada stuffed with chunks of roasted butternut squash, portabella mushrooms, sweet onion, garlic and spinach and then 'garnished' with a smokey tomato sauce.

What are your red wine pairing options? Many! To start, mushrooms love Tempranillo (Rioja), Zin, Sangiovese (Chianti), Malbec and Merlot. Tomatoes love a great deal of the same wines, perhaps adding Barbera to the mix for fuller-figured entrees or Pinot Noir if your dish is on the lighter side. If you are seasoning your dish with some 'earthy' herbs (e.g. sage, rosemary, & thyme), these wines would do well also. Tending toward the more Holiday feel on a given night and tossing in some nutmeg? You could add Syrah to that initial list of reds, too. You don't have to pair with the main ingredient, but can consider what other flavors will be apparent, too.

Needless to say, if you are a vegetarian and a red wine drinker first, there is no need to feel limited! Simply tweak how you are preparing the dish to complement the wine of your choosing.

Are you a vegetarian, red-wine drinker? How do you cope?

'tis the season to be tasting!

This weekend I fielded an oh-so timely and very relevant question: "if you don't taste wines for a living, how can you find new wine finds and otherwise expand your palate?" As it turns out, Labor Day is the unofficial start to the Trade's Tasting Season. What do I mean? Well, we in the trade have the opportunity to attend numerous industry-only wine tastings. These tastings are organized to 'show' fine wine vendors and restaurateurs the latest vintage releases from around the world - baring in mind that those offerings from the Southern Hemisphere operate on a Spring release schedule, so it is likely those wines have been available for several months. How does this impact you, the consumer?

Many fine wine shops use these trade shows to discover new wines to bring to you. Think of it this way: we spit, so you don't have to! And - even better - while these new wines usually end up on the shelves beginning this month, it is also very common for wine shops to offer their customers an opportunity to sample new wares at Fall Grand Tasting events. These are not only free to attend, but significant discounts are always on offer, particularly if you buy in bulk (half a case, a case, or more, of wine). Stocking up for the holidays or your general fall/winter drinking pleasure has never been such fun.

QUICK TIP: Get to the event early to be able to taste all the wines you care to!

How do you find out about these Grand Tastings? If you don't have a favorite local shop just yet, find out which Fine Wine shops are in your area and get on each of their e-mail lists to learn about tasting opportunities.  (This will also serve as an opportunity for you to find out which shop might best suit your needs.) The best shops often will have weekly tasting opportunities (of much smaller scale) that are worth your while, too.

Another recommendation for finding new wines is to subscribe to numerous wine blogs. Using an RSS reader program like Google Reader is a great way to organize your blogs, more quickly find out what's new and otherwise search for specific items - like which Syrah might be winning the Every Day Joe taste test, rather than the ones offered by Wine Spectator and the like. It's true different parts of the country - and certainly the world - have access to different wines, but finding out what strikes another wine afficionado's fancy is a great step in learning about wine and building a relationship with your local shop (which you'll have to turn to to investigate availability and pricing, particularly if your state doesn't permit interstate internet sales.)

If you're in the Boston area, which Grand Wine Tasting events do you know are upcoming for the public?

Turkish wine

I first had the opportunity to vacation on the lovely (Turkish) Cyprus island two years ago when my friend invited me to stay with her family for a couple of weeks.  Whether it was because Turkey is largely a Muslim nation or because my friend's parents don't imbibe very often, drinking wasn't a big part of that trip. I tried Raki once - a strong, clear brandy that tastes of anise - but was not a fan, as my nephew would say. I also remember trying a glass of red wine at a Beer Garden there and found it almost undrinkable. It was so acidic and unbalanced I was happy to stick with the thirst-quenching Effes beer that dominated nightspot venues. This summer we were visiting for the same friend's wedding celebration and decided to spend a few days in Istanbul on the way. The first night we were there we saddled up to a local mezze joint and selected a half bottle of wine from the restaurant's wine list. I should also mention doing so was a rather bizarre task....

Turkey is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world.  It is also fourth in grape production. But something like only 2% of these grapes are used for wine, the majority consumed as fruit or raisins themselves. Most of their grape varietals are also indigenous; and you've probably noticed subconsciously the US does not import Turkish wine - or at least not for mainstream consumption. I easily admit I knew nothing of Turkish wines beyond my one attempt to drink a Beer Garden offering two years prior. This trip I really wanted to dig in - and it was so hot it was easy to long for a cool glass of white or rose to quench my thirst.

My task was not an easy one however, as in Istanbul we discovered right away wine lists were not terribly helpful. They provided the Turkish Producer and Turkish Wine Name (both having no meaning to me), followed by a brief, generic description (e.g. Dry, White; Dry, Red; etc.), not the grape varietal or a sense of flavors present in the wine. Wait staff were not fluent in describing the wines either, even if their English was quite good. The sum of these parts was a recipe for a hit/miss wine-selecting approach. Fortunately, I was open to experimenting.

That first night I pulled a David Ortiz. My random selection of the Kayra Buzbag Beyaz white hit it out of the ballpark. It was medium bodied and fleshy, full of gorgeous, succulent fruit flavors and citrus. It had a touch of minerality, too, but was not spicy. This was the ultimate blind tasting: I had no idea which grape varietal it could possibly be or could be related to as a potentially indigenous varietal or, better yet, if it was a blend. All I knew was that it reminded me of Semillon or perhaps Vouvray (Chenin Blanc). I took down some notes and vowed to research the wine once home.

I was happy to discover I wasn't terribly far off when I found these wine notes: “Selection Beyaz” is produced from Narince and Semillon grapes selected in their respective vineyards of Tokat and Trakya. Well-structured, citrus fruit, fresh quince and coconut taste. It goes well with chicken and fish with sauce.

Not too shabby! My only regret is we never found this bottle of wine again. We discovered another restaurant in Istanbul with truly phenomenal cacik (apologies for the lack of accents), hummus, and chicken shish (kebabs) and a dynamic Maitre D we couldn't help but return to - though their wine list offered the more mainstream (completely drinkable) wines produced by Doluca.

Have your summer adventures take you to new wine frontiers?

Go for the Gold: 2 simple steps to wine heaven

I think many of you can relate when I say I have my "people" for certain services. Hair stylist. Massage guru. Acupuncturist. Physical Trainer. Plumber. You get the idea.... My relationships with these people are critical to the quality of service I receive. My hair stylist recently moved down to Florida, for example. She was fabulous and it took me three other stylist before I "found" her. We shared 3 years of snip-snip bliss. Now, I'll have to make a new investment to find the right person to meet my needs. At least I'm one step closer to hair cut heaven - I like the place I go to. It's the same when it comes to wine. Two weeks ago I met a couple at a Pour Favor tasting. They were lamenting the selection at their local liquor store. Challenge #1? Liquor stores may (claim to) have a fine wines selection, but if they aren't geared toward wine in particular then they likely aren't seeking out new, quality selections. More likely the "fine" in Fine Wines is up for grabs; you'll notice they stick to the mainstream wines we see so often. I doubt whether they even taste the next vintage of the standard wines they carry each year. Challenge #2? They likely do not have staff on hand who have specialized wine knowledge and are equipped to take you from Yellow Tail* to Yippee!

* I have nothing against Yellow Tail, just that there's an ocean of wine out there even more worthy of exploration. I use it here merely as a reference point on this perspective - and because the 'Y' alliteration was fun.... what can I say?

You may have noticed above that I use the word "challenge" rather than "problem". This is intentional. I believe there's no such thing as a problem, only an opportunity for a creative solution. In the case of wine:

#1 ~ Find yourself a Fine Wines shop that offers a wide selection of wines from across the world at reasonable/competitive prices...

#2 ~ With staff who have specific wine knowledge and are available to help you find an appropriate selection given your particular search (e.g. dinner at a friend's, wine to have on hand for whenever, etc.).

It is worth taking these two, simple steps. Everyone/store has a specialty. If your local is more concerned with beer or lottery sales than stocking their shelves with unique wine finds, you should search out a fine wine shop. Maybe you end up purchasing a case of wine (and enjoying the store's discount as a result) and pop in every couple of months rather than every week because they aren't as close by. It's worth it. A store with a wine buyer who knows their craft is incredibly valuable. Just remember figuring out your wine preferences won't happen over night. Just like with your beloved barber/stylist, you should be prepared to invest time in your relationship with the shop's buyer. And remember the onus is on you to tell the buyer what you did or did not like about a particular wine they helped you to select. (Taking notes on a wine is never a bad idea.) Such due diligence will help get you to "Yippee!" a heck of a lot faster.

Do you have a Wine Shop/Buyer you rely on? What are your standards of 'care'?

Put to the test: rocky mountain oysters and appropriate wine pairing

This weekend I was put to the test while bantering with some folks about wine/food pairing. The query? Rocky Mountain Oysters. At first all I heard was what to pair with oysters. Then I played back the moment and realized there was more to it - and, in fact, this was a new one on me. Once I found out what they were, well, being a lady from urban parts, I was stumped. That said, I was humored by the cajones (pun intended) the fellow had to ask this particular question; I did a little quick recipe searching to see what kind of preparation is common when serving these rare appetizers. If you are like me and haven't had the chance to taste these wholesome nuggets, Rocky Mountain Oysters reportedly don't have any distinct flavor on their own. At best, they can be likened to liver. I wasn't surprised to see they also fall under the "chewy" category; perhaps combined with the fact that they are considered a delicacy, this is where they get their "oyster" name association? These little gems are most often seasoned, breaded, deep fried and served piping hot with all kinds of fun dipping sauces.

Why is this helpful to know? When it comes to food/wine pairing it is never a bad idea to consider: a) how the item will be prepared (e.g. grilled, steamed, fried); b) what dressing/marinade/seasoning is involved and/or c) what will accompany the dish, as side dishes are sometimes a good place to focus particularly when less distinct proteins like chicken, fish or even turkey are on offer. These other culinary 'features', if you will, impact the weight, richness and/or fruitiness/earthiness of the dish and help guide which beverage might be the best option. For example, baked cod seasoned with olive oil, garlic and pepper is much different than cod deep fried in beer batter (aka fish and chips).

Back to our delicacy item in question then, when dealing with a fried food, a great pairing is almost always answered by something bubbly - whether that's a cold brew, or a dry sparkling wine like Champagne or Prosecco. You could also opt for something high in acid and lighter bodied, like Sauvignon Blanc. Or, if wine is in fact your preference, do both! Pick up a bottle of the La Tosa Valnure, a dry, frizzante (slightly sparkingly) Italian white wine made from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. The lighter style of these white wines and the crispness offered by the additional acidity that defines them allows your palate to 'regroup' and get ready for another rich bite of fried, goodness.

Have you ever had the chance to savor a Rocky Mountain Oyster? What was your beverage of choice?

pooches in the vineyard

Whenever I've traveled to wine country I've noticed a plethora of dogs hanging out in/around the winery. I didn't think too much about it, figuring pets/animals and rural areas go hand in hand. It always seemed like a great opportunity to ensure a 'friend' was always nearby and an astute property "scout" was happy to help keep an eye on things. I've also been noticing how many pooches appear on labels. A great marketing ploy, I always thought, but it never occurred to me that there might be something more to it. This weekend I was preparing for a private wine tasting party I have coming up. I always like to find out interesting little "fun facts" about the wines I'm introducing; this supplements the more traditional wine information I impart on my clients' guests, too, and helps make a particular wine memorable in another way. I soon discovered that there is a specific reason they use a dog on the Yalumba Y-Series Shiraz/Viognier label. It symbolizes the necessary and fabulous "mateship" between winemakers and growers. Without the other, they wouldn't have anything to cheers to, if you know what I mean.

That one piece of information prompted me to make a more meaningful connection between vineyards and their pooches. I did a little digging to see if there was something more to having dogs around the property and couldn't resist sharing today what I learned.

In California they recently started training golden retrievers to sniff out a troublesome little bug: vine mealy bugs. The bug is new-ish to California and is creating quite a stir. Perhaps not of the same destruction caliber as phylloxera, this little guy is still no fun. When he eats he excretes a sugary, "honeydew" substance that becomes a happy stomping ground for sooty mold. Imagine a grape cluster infested with the honeydew, mold, egg sacs and more mealy bugs and - yep - you're pretty grossed out, not to mention the grapes are completely unusable in wine production and the vines are seriously compromised.

An article on Land of Pure Gold describes just how helpful trained retrievers can be in reducing the impact of these pests. Tim Tesconi writes, if a dog identifies a vine as being infested it can be removed or treated with insecticides. Pinpointing infested vines allows growers to spray specific sites rather than the whole vineyard, which is not only less costly but better for the environment. Cheers to environmentally friendly! Cheers to on-going wine production!

There's plenty more out there on dogs in the vineyards, too. Take a look at some of the cute faces captured at Winery Dogs. As for me, I know what my next toast will be: to the pooches!

What other vineyard dog fun facts have you come across or experienced first hand?

arts and crafts

I'm going to break with tradition today and start from the bottom up (i.e. with my question of the day): What do you do with your corks? I started out with a drawer, moved on to a fish bowl, supplemented with a giant, glass brandy snifter and - as of this weekend - have upgraded to a serious, 18" high, glass mason jar. When I started saving my corks several years ago, I saved them because I wanted to remember certain bottles of wine I quite enjoyed. Then it became a habit and all corks became part of my collection. Then when I was on the wine trail out west, my brother and I started asking for corks at the various wineries we visited. Once we even found a bag of them hidden somewhere and he proceeded to take handfuls of them off their hands and stuff them into my decent sized hand bag. That's when I knew I had crossed over.

Now that I'm in the industry professionally, I have the idea that I'll soon be equipped to make cool things with my corks. I have need for new trivets, for example. I also could use a 3" x 4" door mat, a message board, a serving tray, some coasters.... the list could go on endlessly. My challenge is two fold, however. First, I lack the creative genes my nieces are so lucky to have. When it comes to arts & crafts, I'm not at all endowed; (I even struggle with food presentation, which is a talent I really wish I had given my passion for food/entertaining). Second, I'm not yet at the point where I have enough corks (frighteningly) to make more than one item. A girl can only drink so much!

Peering around on-line here and there overtime, I've bookmarked some pretty cool cork art/stuff. Check out Fistera Studio to see how they managed the rug. Or pay a visit to Gabriel Wiese's website to see what he's managed! Furniture... who knew? The possibilities truly are endless for the creatively enabled. The only item I've ever managed was a cork wreath for my brother (same one referenced above), and it now hangs in his home wine cellar (I appreciate his priorities!). I wish I had a picture. That wreath is probably a foot in diameter and took me about 5 hours to put together using wire (wrapped around each cork) and two needlepoint hoops. My fingers were fairly raw afterwards from working the wire.

I'm not sure why I'm so happily obsessed with my corks. Perhaps it is because they are a dying tradition? Perhaps it is because they each have a story? I'm not going to over-think it, as I'm apt to do being a Virgo and all. Suffice to say, if you're in the Boston area and know of some cool places I can go to pick up a cork item or two, I'd appreciate your comments!