a bit (more) on bubbly: marketing musings

Happy New Year! I hope you enjoyed a great bit of bubbly - whether Cava, Prosecco, Champagne, domestic sparkling or what have you - to ring in 2009. I have to admit, I'm a little sad the holidays are behind us. I did quite some damage enjoying bubbly from almost every wine-producing continent throughout December. And in so doing, I rejoiced in and fully celebrated just how great, food-friendly and versatile it is. My New Year's resolution might just include drinking at least one bottle each month of the year (not necessarily by myself or all at once, mind you). Ah, yes... I like this idea! What with all my bubbly enjoyment these last several weeks I couldn't help but muse the Marketing Giant that is the word, the region, and the renowned sparkler: Champagne. Just think of it! No other wine region in France, or really elsewhere, has the panache that Champagne does. No other wine seems to have inspired so many other styles of or takes on sparkling. No other wine says "sophistication" like Champagne. How does such a small-production entity (only 12% of sparkling wine worldwide) manage to capture the hearts/minds of so many people worldwide?

The short answer is History. Champagne got its real start via endorsements from royalty. In one example, Cristal was actually created for Czar Alexander II of Russia 1876 by Louis Roederer. Back then Russia was one of the highest export markets for the House. Of course, when the Czar found out he was drinking the same bubbly as his court he was a little peeved. Cristal became a special bottling, so named for the special lead crystal bottle it was distributed in. Meanwhile, an emerging middle class seeking a taste of how the other half lived, became more active consumers (albeit, not of Cristal, per se). And so it goes... Today, we simply seek out satisfying Champagnes to toast (and sip).

As someone who appreciates and enjoys many of the offerings coming from throughout France (and elsewhere), I can't help but wonder if any other region in the world will develop such a following. What will drive that new success? How about bizarre or clever tools now at play in the trade as a whole? Are they 'enough' to put a small producer or small producing region permanently on the map?

While I was contemplating this particular question, my stream-of-consciousness reminded me of a trade professional who tried to convince me of the marketability of aluminum last summer. I'm sorry to say, you may be able to drop the can of wine on the floor and merely dent it, but I don't think this will be the next great thing. I can even subscribe to the box wine phenomenon because of it's environmentally conscience and common sense-driven design. I'm largely a fan of screw caps. But aluminum? I'm sorry. No.

Over the holidays, my general musings about bubbly and marketing came full circle when I saw the biggest offender I've found on the market thus far: Francis Ford Coppola's Sophia Blanc de Blanc "mini"s. While this may be the wine of choice for sweet wine-interested consumers, could we please not sell it in a "convenient" can? Come on. A straw? For bubbly? This just hurts my feelings. It hurts history/tradition. For heaven's sake, there's no cork to pop! It only gets points for being offensively American. (If I were Madame Clicquot, I would actually turn in my grave.) Gnarly sweet and over-worked to boot, this wine gets my lowest rating: Humph!

Do you agree? What wine (marketing) faux pas did you encounter last year?

Aperitifs: The oh-so Lovely Lillet

'Tis the season to be merry! And sometimes merriment is best facilitated by getting your guests in the mood for - in the immortal words of Seinfeld writers - Festivus! Last weekend I had the pleasure of pouring a few holiday libations for just such a purpose at a public tasting event. (I had what happens to be my favorite Champagne Rose on hand, Lillet and two different Ports on offer; oh yes, I was captain of the Fun Team!) Much to my amusement, the Lillet was the fan favorite. In part this was because it's an aperitif that's been around since dirt bringing back memories for many, and in part it's because it's just so interesting. Leave it to a monk, Father Kermann, to "invent" it back in the late 1800's in Pondesac, Bordeaux. Fermann was also a doctor/mixologist, creating elixirs and fortifiers using ingredients like quinine. Enter the burgeoning region of Bordeaux where crazy ingredients like star anise, brandy, cane sugar, et. al. were then descending from all over the world (China, Gascony, West Indies....) and our friend Fr. Kermann is one happy camper! From this epicenter of creativity and fine ingredients came Lillet.

But let's back up for a second... An aperitif is an alcoholic beverage meant to begin a meal. Literally, it gets consumers in the mood for food by stimulating the appetite. For me it's also one of those 'balms' I've mentioned of late that has a welcome touch of alcohol to take the edge off potentially uncomfortable social situations, or to otherwise just get people in the spirit of the occasion (pun intended). It also isn't so strong in taste it will kill the next libation's flavors (e.g. wine with the meal).

On the Lillet bottle it reads: "Since 1872". Apparently there is no official recipe they use to make it year after year, instead relying on each cuvee to dictate the outcome. And apparently in 1985 they revamped their overall approach to appeal to modern-day consumers. Once much more bitter and slightly more sweet in flavor, today the aperitif offers a tremendously floral bouquet with hints of apricots and honey - it reminds me (and others) of late harvest wines. From there it delivers a surprising minerality, and notes of slightly bitter orange peel and apricots. (Technically speaking, it is made from the white wine Bordeaux grapes Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and "fruit liquors" (15%). It is aged for 10 months (on average) in oak barrels.) I encouraged every person who approached my table to simply try it for themselves - and while each had their own reaction, nearly all was pleasantly surprised by it and certainly excited to add it to their holiday party shopping cart.

Which apertif do you enjoy during the holidays? Have you tried Lillet - whether on ice, with a twist, a'la James Bond or otherwise?

For the love of a woman... or the love of a wine?

As the first gentle snowflakes of the winter were falling here in Boston yesterday morning, I was up and at'm reading wine reviews. It's true I'm always doing research. But yesterday somehow the stage was set such that I couldn't help chuckling at some of the terminology in our wine lexicon! Have you ever noticed how often a wine - or maybe just the BEST wines - are described by some of the most colorful lingo of any (neutral) topic? Some of the best terms (for the best wines) are words any woman would love to have poured over her (perhaps literally and figuratively!). A few of my favorites are: Smooth, Elegant, Alluring, Enticing, Polished and Supple.

Other terms may be more Marilyn Monroe in nature... How about: Opulent, Round, Generous, Vibrant or Juicy?

Others are ones you wouldn't mind your partner whispering in your ear, sweet nothings that say everything you want to hear: Sensual, Sexy, Seductive.

Wine writers certainly have seemed to conjure a few precious gems to get you in the mood!

What wine terms tickle your fancy?

inspiration, hope, delight and a bottle (or two...) of wine

I was blessed with three things this Thanksgiving: inspiration, hope and pure delight. Since wine happened to be the catalyst for all three (and I feel like all we hear about is bad news these days), I can't help but pick up my blog after the holiday weekend and share some positive goodness. Inspiration. I've never had so much fun interacting with wine customers than last Wednesday night at the shop. People were looking for nice bottles of vino to accompany their meal, serve as delicious liquid 'balm' for potentially awkward family moments, or otherwise thank their host for their hospitality. People were simply in good spirits, looking forward to a few days off and satisfied bellies. Their bottle of vino was something they not only wanted to complete their meal, but to say something more, too.

Hope. People weren't panicking. Some were looking to spend less per bottle so they could buy more than one more easily, but I couldn't help but notice I was helping customers select more expensive bottles of wine for the occasion. (There is so much good juice at various price points I had anticipated helping folks find the perfect bottle anywhere from $10 to $100 - not more consistently in the $20-$35 range, which I did often.)

Delight. As I dressed my table, roasted my bird and prepared the delicious trimmings, it was lovely to open the bottles of wine I finally selected for the occasion (after much deliberation - after all, I am a Virgo with sometimes too much wine knowledge for my own good!). They were exactly what I hoped would delight my taste buds and guests.

Our pre-bird snacks were accompanied by an old favorite of mine (though the latest vintage which I had not yet enjoyed), the 2007 Guidobono Barbera d'Alba. I call it my fireplace wine; it is so approachable and versatile I can enjoy it with a variety of foods - or simply stick my feet up in front of the fire and sip. The 2007 is perhaps less complex in flavor than 2006, but it is no less satisfying. It was perfect for me to sip on as I put the final touches on the meal, enjoyed my guests and snacked.

Our main meal featured the 2006 Hillinger Small Hill Red, a truly fabulous, character-driven, soft and supple Pinot Noir/Merlot blend from Austria. In case I haven't mentioned this wine here before, I will say it now: to me this wine is like the big, holiday bonus you didn't know you were getting (it shows you the respect you deserve, but does so with unprecedented sophistication and grace). A lovely knock-out!

All of these things were enough to put me in the holiday spirit. This week I'll be getting out my decorations and thinking about wines to delight us all as Santa slides down the chimney in but 25 days time!

How was your Thanksgiving? What wine(s) did you select for the occasion?

No need to stress: Tips for Turkey wine success

I'm cooking a harvest-themed feast for a few friends this year and couldn't be more thankful to avoid the madness of travel including, but not limited to: airport delays; someone else's Aunt Tilda and her generous supply of lipstick and perfume; and the screaming baby in the seat across the aisle. I'm not a Bah Humbug for Christmas, but I've lived through too many challenging Thanksgiving trips to want to head elsewhere for the otherwise great event.  An entertaining parade that inspires nostalgia, football (no matter how bizarre the match-up), a feast chock full of friends and good humor and a great bottle of wine (or two or three) are all the ingredients I need for a lovely day of giving thanks. If you haven't made it to your wine shop to select a bottle of wine this year, today might be a good day to drop by. It will only get trickier to navigate the aisles as mid-week approaches. And if you don't already have a favorite Pinot Gris, Riesling, Beaujolais Villages, or Pinot Noir picked out, remember to consult your shop's wine buyer. There are some fun things on the market this year you won't want to miss. (Two that come to mind are the Michlits Frizzante Pinot Noir (the winemaker made it for her wedding a few years ago and it was so amazing, her importer asked her to make it a regular in her repertoir) or the Clos de Rochers Pinot Gris, a very cool, slightly sweet Pinot Gris from Luxembourg - you don't see that everyday!) No doubt having a little one-on-one help will certainly ease your pre-holiday stress.

But even if you wait to the last minute or the wine managers on duty are helping other customers, for heaven's sake, don't panic! There is too much parking lot drama at every grocery store and fine wines shop this time of year, you don't need to add a little something I like to call "Bottle Stress" to your life. Even if you are meeting your boy/girlfriend's family for the first time, here are two stress-reducing strategies for Thanksgiving Wine-Selecting Success:

Option A: Simply stick to one of the classic Turkey varietals I listed above. You'll be A-OK on optimal food pairings.

Option B: If those varietals aren't your bag, select a bottle or grape YOU like; it's probably just the balm you need! (Eric Asimov and his eno-friends recently reiterated the point beautifully (and comically) at The Pour....)

For those of you ahead of the rest, won't you help your friends with a little insight? What do you plan to pour this Thanksgiving?

wine buying "power"

I was raised in a family where asking someone about finances - or their buying power - might be considered a little too forward. But one of the most helpful questions I've learned to ask a customer searching for the "perfect" bottle is "how much do you want to spend?". I'm sure I've said it before: there is a ton of great juice on the market. Knowing how much someone wants to spend helps me narrow the playing field and help them find a great bottle to suit the occasion. Often I meet people who know they want to bring a bottle to dinner, but feel uncomfortable with wine and don't feel they know what is an appropriate amount for a "good" bottle of wine for X occasion. A good salesperson will be able to steer you in the right direction - without making you feel uncomfortable. But failing that ideal experience, here are a few things to consider when shopping (particularly given the economic climate and the upcoming holidays).

1. You don't have to spend a small fortune to select a solid offering. If you know what's being served for dinner, or if you don't, offer up that information to the salesperson, too. The right grape varietal/blend will more often "make or break" the gesture, not how much you spent.

2. Even as the Holidays approach and you are looking for a "nice" bottle of wine, remember a lot of great bottles can be found under $20. But whenever you are shopping, give your sales person a $5 price range to play with - e.g. $12 - $17, $15-20, $30 - $35. Whatever. Know how much you DON'T want to spend given your budget and be/get comfortable telling the salesperson that figure.

3. As the economy hits the crapper, I've met more and more people who are expanding their wine budgets and contracting their going out budgets. In the scheme of things, your entire evening is more cost-efficient. (Remember: you spend much more for an average bottle of wine when out at a restaurant than retail.) It can be just as fun (and perhaps more rewarding?) to explore a new bottle of wine at a slightly higher price as it is to go out on the town.

In the end, embrace your buying power. Explore wines on offer at a variety of price points as you see fit! You will likely find some "treats" at a higher price, but just as likely stumble on some good old fashioned comfort-sipping, too.

What's your wine buying rationale these days? Have your habits changed with the economy?

On wine bars...

Ok, readers! Buckle up, because here IT is.... Over the weekend I was in NYC visiting my sister and some friends. Saturday night we headed out for a somewhat low-key night of good old fashioned catching up. After we wrapped up our meal, we decided to check out one of the 3 different wine bars that has popped up in my sister's neighborhood in recent months. It was a great scene - low lighting, a phenomenally long, graceful bar, terrific bar snacks, a loungey thing going around us and in a back room....

But come on people, if you are going to be a wine bar, how about a little bit of diversity on your wine list?!

Let's reflect: wine bars seem to be all the rage, cropping up like wildfires. Any good business person should know the key to success (in a saturated market) is doing something that sets you apart from the competition. I get that and embrace it. By nature the wine world is quite diverse, regionally, varietally, etc. so already proprietors should have quite a bit to work with. I simply do not understand why it seems so many wine bars are actually doing the same thing: offering a very narrow wine list and then pretending they don't. It's like going to a martini bar and only seeing one brand of gin (re: white wine) and two brands of vodka (read: red wine).

This particular bar started out on the right foot. Their initial list of wines was categorized as "Under $40". That worked for me. There were a few red, white and bubbly options from around the world. But as soon as I turned the page, nearly all the wines listed were Italian. The "International Wines" section offered 5 wines total, 3 from Spain, 1 from Australia and 1 from France. It's one thing if you are going to be an Italian Wine Bar. It's another if you are going to mostly be an Italian wine bar and then pretend you're not.

It drives me crazy! At least let me know what you are about at the outset and promote accordingly. Then I can make a decision on whether your scene makes up for the fact that I'm in a French wines mood and only Italians are on offer.

Harrumph.

Am I alone in this frustration? What are you hoping for from your "Wine Bar" experience?

a could-be conundrum: cooking with wine

I realized it was time to get back in the Entertaining Saddle as soon as the Red Sox lost the ALCS. Football is great, don't get me wrong, but we're only talking about 2 days of Go Time each week. And with my favorite cooking magazine, Eating Well,  bursting with fall/harvest/pre-holiday recipes for easy entertaining, the only thing left for me to do was call up some friends. Saturday night I laid out a feast. My guests were delighted with the Aged Mahon cheese (drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with thyme), sliced, marinated salami and mixed olives I set out to wet their appetites; they were equally intrigued by and happy with the Lambrusco I paired accordingly (sweet and salty are always a safe bet!). Meanwhile, I was putting the final touches on the main course in the kitchen - pork loin with roasted grape sauce. I'm not one of those entertainer types who has to know a recipe before I introduce it to my guests. I just give it a shot and see how it goes, pairing the wine I think best. Fortunately my friends are of a similar mind and so happy 'guinea pigs'.

But when it comes to cooking with wine, sometimes recipes can be difficult to discern. The recipe for the grape sauce called for either Madeira or dry, white wine. Madeira is a fortified wine, with varying levels of sweetness and nutty characteristics. Dry, white wine is the exact opposite. Since I wasn't exactly sure what the grape sauce would turn out like - a lighter but flavorful sauce or a rich gravy - making the decision was that much harder. I consulted with my fellow wine buyer. And he made a brilliant recommendation: use an old, dry white wine. Because old white wines develop a kind of richer, nuttier almost dessert-like quality due to excessive oxidation, I would essentially split the difference of the wine recommendations in the recipe. I unearthed a bottle of 2002 Sauvignon Blanc from a case of wine that had gotten lost in the bowels of the shop. And it was perfect!

While I extrapolated from the recipe to find a good answer, I still stand by the most important rule of thumb when it comes to cooking with wine. ONLY cook with wine you would be happy to drink, too. (In fact, I have a fabulous Birthday card on my fridge that reiterates the point perfectly. It says "I love cooking with wine...sometimes I even put it in the food!". ) Did I taste the wine before I poured it into my sauce? Absolutely. Old wine won't hurt you. And in the case of white wine, it just tastes sweet as it ages. Could I have had a glass? Sure! It was reminiscent of creme brulee, in fact. But we had my homemade apple crumble pie on hand for dessert so I passed this time....

What wine cooking conundrums have you encountered? How have you solved them?

Is "table wine" just plonk?

Last weekend I went out to dinner at one of my favorite local spots. They change their somewhat small, but uniquely satisfying menu frequently, ensuring they always offer the best seasonal fare. What's even more fun for me is their enormous wine list. Thinking about it now (chuckling), there are probably 10 different red and 10 different white wine options that could pair with every one dish!  I always enjoy navigating their extensive list to pair a wine for both me and my date to enjoy with our different meals. On Saturday night my date was having grilled veal chops, with couscous and a fried onion. I was having the rosemary chicken breast, with fingerling potatoes, leeks and roasted garlic. Each of these dishes was a great example of tasty American fare. Nothing pretentious about either. No unique dressing or gravy. Just good ole fashioned, albeit beautifully prepared, comfort food.

Sometimes you just want something that's easy drinking. Sometimes your meal is classically satisfying and delicious enough you don't need to spend the extra cash on a truly remarkable bottle of wine. Better yet, sometimes you just can't spend the extra few dollars.

An ideal pairing for both of our dishes may have been a very earthy, more robust New World style Pinot Noir. But none jumped out at me on the list. We had also been spoiled by a truly gorgeous bottle of Pinot with the same characteristics the night before. (We had homemade chicken marsala with rosemary mashed potatoes; we splurged on the Reynold's Family Pinot Noir - and it was a tremendous delight). I decided to turn my attention to their basic red table wine offerings.

I know some of you out there may be timid to opt for such a selection when out to eat at a nice place. Here's my thinking on the matter: If the wine buyer at the restaurant is going to take the time to pick out so many beautiful offerings, you can be almost certain their table wine option(s) is/are solid. Will the wine knock your socks off? Not necessarily. But will it be food friendly (having solid acidity and/or tannin) and otherwise scratch the itch? No doubt.

Wine shopping tip: My favorite every-day table wine is the Cayalla Red with fruit from both Washington and Oregon. Keep an eye out for it! Since that wasn't on the list, we ended up with Fenestra True Red Lot 22. For this wine Fenestra blends French and Spanish varietals, 56% from the Rhone Valley, 25% from Bordeaux, and 19% from Spain. I have to say too, this wine is an example when 'vintage', or each year they make it, matters. Technically it is a non vintage wine, but their previous release (Lot 21) was not exactly my favorite.... When I tasted the Lot 22 a few weeks ago, I was pleasantly surprised. It offers terrific red raspberry aromas, and delivers black cherries and raspberries on the palate. A hint of earthy leather comes to fruition as it opens. The Lot 22 is medium-bodied, its acidity is dead on and the tannins are delightfully smooth. These elements make the wine enjoyable on its own, too - before your meal even arrives.

Was my date blown away by my selection? Not this time. Was that my goal? Not entirely. I wanted something that would split the difference for us, perfectly palatable where the food could shine and our thirst would be quenched. It did both.

I'd argue a good table wine comes in a notch or two above "plonk" - reasonably priced for reasonably good juice.

What's your favorite, go-to Table Wine?

Portuguese wines are worth seeking out

Last Thursday night I was not on my usual perch watching the (second) most amazing ALCS comeback in history. "Why not?", you ask, shocked this Red Sox fan was elsewhere.... I was attending an intimate wine dinner at (the new) L'Espalier hosted by ViniPortugal. I would not have traded the opportunity for one moment. Much like the Red Sox game, I had my own uniquely amazing evening, learning more about the 'nerdier' side of Portuguese oenology, tasting an array of wines and bending the ear of Portugal's most revered (and perhaps most delightful) winemaker.

Many Americans think of Portuguese wines (beyond Port) simply as bargain, quaffing wines. Not bad, but not necessarily noteworthy or particularly complex either.  When I received my invitation to last week's event, I was thrilled at the opportunity to meet Nuno Cancela de Bareu, Portugal's leading Winemaker and Consultant, and learn more about what ViniPortugal is up to these days. My experience (re)tasting about 12 wines - red, white, sparkling and dessert - only reconfirmed what I've known for sometime: Portuguese wines are worth seeking out.

Let's start at the beginning, shall we?

Nuno Cancela de Abreu is perhaps Portugal's primary, modern-day wine pioneer. He studied in both Portugal and France, ultimately receiving his degree in viticulture and enology from the Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Lisbon. He spent six years in the Duoro region, influencing the modern production of Port and Douro wines. Next, he planted a new vineyard on family land in the Dao and, as a result, launched two brands (Quinta da Giesta and Quinta Fonte do Ouro). Somehow he simultaneously managed Quinta da Romeira in the Bucelas region and single-handedly brought the wonderfully floral, minerally and fruity indigenous grape Arinto into its own. Thereafter he revolutionized Quinta da Alorna's operation in the Ribatejo region. Nuno's passion is to transform Portuguese wines (and their reputation) into fine, internationally recognized and coveted selections. And, in my humble opinion, the world should be grateful for it! He is well on his way.

Nuno was asked to introduce the group to several of his favorite Portuguese selections - not necessarily his own wines - available in the Boston market. The list of wines on offer are too long to discuss in great detail in this single post, so I'll simply list a few now and then spend some time here and there over the next months talking about various offerings in greater detail. Are you ready?

Whites

'07 Quinta de Catralvos Lisa (a lovely, fleshy, floral and clean Moscatel)

'07 Deu la Deu (aka "Muros Antigos" in Boston) Alvarinho (same as Albarino in Spain - wonderfully rich peaches and apricots, with a touch of bite)

'07 Quinta da Murta Arinto (it says Bucelas, the region, on the label, but this is 100% intensely floral and minerally Arinto - don't be confused!)

Reds

'04 Casa de Santar Rsv  (a blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca - soft, fine tannins and redberry fruits)

'06 Quinta do Coa ( a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Franca - one I had forgotten how much I enjoy, offering great floral aromas, dark fruits, some soft, caramel oak flavors and terrific spice)

'05 Cartuxa Rsv (Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alfrocheiro - this is a big food wine, offering fabulous dried plumb and raisin fruit aromas and flavors, spice and a subtle, lasting finish)

Bubbly

'07 Luis Pato Espumate Rose (this is 100% Baga, gently bubbly raspberries and strawberries!)

Dessert

Andresen 20 Yr. Tawny Port (who doesn't want hazelnuts, toffee and dried fruit flavors from their Tawny?!)

At the dinner Nuno gave us a rundown on the various regions in Portugal, how the climate and terroir impact the viticultural conditions that allow certain varietals to thrive, et. al. (Yes, I was in my happy place, gleefully unaware what was happening up the street at Fenway!) The thing to remember is Portuguese wines are made of native grape varietals - like those outlined above - you've likely never heard of. Don't think of that as intimidating or too foreign. Winemakers are following Nuno's lead, making these foreign-sounding wines approachable in the way they taste. The fact that our economy is so tough right now and the price of these wines is still amazingly "right" for the time being makes this a great place to explore. Much like the Languedoc in France offers a better price point for winelovers of the Southern Rhone (because these wines are less sought given historical winemaking practices), Portugal offers value wines that are complex, interesting and - delicious!

At the start of the evening Marcio Ferreira of ViniPortugal told us his organization's goal is to reinforce a favorable image of Portuguese wines. In speaking with Nuno, I learned just how tightly-knit their community is; fortunately, innovation, forsight and exceptional winemaking like Nuno's makes Marcio's job that much easier. They are all in it together!

Want to see for yourself? Head over to the Harvard Club tomorrow night and then report back your own findings by commenting below!