Wine Blogging Wednesday: Cote du Rhone Blanc

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday! And so it is I have the occasion to divert from my typical blogging approach to bring news of a gorgeous, supple white wine from the Cote du Rhone, France: 2006 Chateau de Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc. But first a brief introduction to this Wine Blogging Wednesday I speak of.... WBW was started about 4 years ago by Lenndevours to bring a virutal wine tasting to the global masses. A theme is selected by the monthly host and then wine bloggers select a wine they've tasted based on the theme and post their impressions on the applicable day. This month Dr. Debs is our guide. She had the brilliant idea of selecting the Cote du Rhone whites as the theme.

For me this month's "assignment" was a pleasure. The Cote du Rhone could be my favorite region in the wine making world. There is enough variation from the North to South to keep things interesting and challenging, too. The reds are full of character, offering a great sense of place and tradition - one that my palette adores. The whites are often seductive and refreshing. (Note: of course these comments are sweeping generalizations for a large and distinct region, but for the sake of keeping my posts relatively reasonable in length, I can't help but tempt you to explore for yourself. The Rhone is quite fun!)

There are nine grapes of the Rhone. The St. Cosme blends 4 of them: 50% is Roussanne and the rest is Picpoul, Clairette, and Marsanne. Roussanne and Clairette are perhaps two of the most aromatic and elegant grapes in this area - and the St. Cosme surely benefits. Marsanne and Picpoul are more often used as blending grapes (though I've had the latter on it's own and it is quite fantastically refreshing and versatile). Ok, so those are the grapes... "What about the wine?!", you ask?

I was shocked by the St. Cosme's stunning gold color. I couldn't wait to put my nose in the glass! I gave it a swirl and initially found the nose to have hints of petrol followed by intense, ripe pear aromas. As it opened and warmed slightly (it has been HOT in Boston), honey notes emerged. My first taste did not disappoint either. It had an incredible, fleshy-full, mouthfeel and flavors of pear and other tropical fruits danced around in my mouth. It paired well with my meal, too: cucumber dill & walnut salad, grilled tandoori chicken and red potatoes. This wine received my highest "rating": YUM!

I believe every taster has their own experience with and impressions of a wine; that's why I don't blog to rate wines, but rather focus on giving you the 'back story' or other tidbits about wine to increase your curiosity to play (read: taste) as much as possible. After tasting a wine for myself, I often investigate to see what other's think. Sometimes I completely agree, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I laugh at how someone can say a wine is "close to being outstanding" (first, what exactly does that mean??) and then rate it only 89 points.

My recommendation? Go out and splurge on the St. Cosme Cote du Rhone Blanc! Taste the wine and then check out Spectator's and Parker's notes or Google it for more info. After I selected the wine I realized Gary V tasted this wine out not that long ago, too. So there's lots of entertaining reading out there as you sip. Cheers!

wine and real life: what's your wine economy?

I don't know about you, but with the Euro/Dollar scenario, an increase in gas prices and my grocery bill skyrocketing (despite similar buying habits), I'm looking at my life budget a bit differently these days. A few weeks ago I noticed it's actually getting to be cheaper to eat out than stay in! And I can't tell you how many wine blogs and articles I've read that talk about 'value wines' in a different or more concerted way. At the shop we're not sure how things are going to go this summer. We keep refilling the racks so we know we're still selling a ton of wine... Usually the summer in Boston is slower because people head to the Cape over the weekend. But - as I mentioned - with gas at $4/gallon, people may be more inclined to stay closer to home once the kiddies are out of school. We're not sure. But we're definitely choosing wines even more carefully. If a wine's price has gone up beyond it's worth, we're finding other options for our customers. That's just good business, I think.

Lately I keep wishing I had gotten in on the industry 10 years ago when I first got out of school and kick butt wines were $8-$10. I'd be tasting all sorts of phenomenal wines no one would have qualms about opening - now the "investment" is just too great. But I digress....

The good news about wine is that things will come back down - at least Old World wines. We're "suffering" because of the exchange rate, rather than because European winemakers have jacked their prices for the hell of it. What I don't understand - and I'd love to hear from some CA/domestic producers on this one - is why American wineries aren't taking full advantage of this opportunity to sell their wines at a more affordable rate, that is, keeping their prices more static this year. I know they are spending more on gas to get their wines shipped out, but I also know that companies are being much more efficient in their distribution system.

I don't have the answers on any of this despite all I've read and seen, but I'm curious to glean your feedback. What's your wine economy like these days? How has the global economic situation impacted - or not - your wine consumption, spending or sales/pricing strategy?

surprising sippers - maybe not a trend, but definitely "news" worthy

If you love blueberry pie, attempt to sneak the last of the cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving dinner or have an obsession with raspberry jam, keep reading.

A few weeks back one of our reps came by the shop with a unique offering. He had with him a gentleman from New Jersey who was pitching his fruity wines. New Jersey is a rare bird in the wine world as is. But this was also not the typical grape-based wines we all know and love. These were wines made from blueberries, raspberries, bing cherries and cranberries. My colleague and I took one look at the wines as they emerged from their cooler and nearly sent the duo packing. After all, we buy wines for a FINE wines shop and pride ourselves on our unique, quality selections.

That said, we are professionals first and foremost. So we let the pair of salesmen know we would taste the wines, but gently aired our concerns too. (Best to have low expectations and remain non-committal in these sorts of situations.) The wines were poured. The wines were sampled. And the wines won us over. We brought in a sample case (4 of each) of the wines we tasted. Can you imagine? I'm still surprised! But since I'm also a lover of a great martini and can appreciate the myriad benefits alcohol contributes when creating gorgeous sauces and other fare, I had to be an advocate for the Tomasello selections.

This winery also makes more typical wines though fewer of those wines have won any awards. Granted, New Jersey isn't well-known for their wines; but I did read recently Windows on the World sports a solid NJ cab on their wine list. Who knew?

Have you ever tried a fruit wine? How about wine from NJ?

a French kiss

At a wine tasting party in April I told my client's guests that to me, there's nothing better than a wine with a killer barnyard nose. "Manuer," they asked skeptically? "That's it," I replied happily! The French are just so darn good at getting the terroir (read: earth, climate et. al. from whence the grapes were grown) into the wine. I'm not saying the wines I love taste like manuer. Of course, not! For me the kiss of French terroir means that wine is part of a uniquely local, mini-ecosystem and critical wine-making process that makes the wine unique. As I'm sure you've noticed, I find this all fascinating to study. Limestone, clay, stones, sand.... As soon as I did, my wine appreciation and pleasure sky-rocketed because I had a broader context to reference (e.g. France, the winemaking history/tradition, the types of soil, the culture, the food...).

While the concept of terroir is not limited to France, it sure has gotten a reputation there and elsewhere in Europe. Here in the US it may be too soon to tell how much the flavors of the earth are getting into the wines. These things can take a few years as the newer vines mature and produce more concentrated fruit. American vines are but wee toddlers in comparison to older vines of Europe!

I think the great debate that sometimes pops up around whether or not there is truth to the impact of terroir on a wine is a bit cr*p. (I can't help but wonder if we Americans are just too marketing/sales-oriented and stodgy to appreciate someone else's fine work - not to mention centuries perfecting it!) Each wine making region, wine maker, the vineyards and those who work them play an important role in producing a wine. Isn't it just refreshing to think that each of those fingerprints leave their marks?

What are your sediments (no pun intended)? Are you a believer in the impact of terroir?

adventure-seeker or comfort-seeker?

As my hectic, challenging weekend wrapped up, I realized a) I hadn't a thing in the fridge to whip together a meal and b) I needed something VERY comforting. A turkey burger and beer at my favorite local jaunt would suit me perfectly, so we headed off in that direction. A wine author I've read in the last year (but can't remember which one, apologies!) wrote about wine people in the context of "Adventure-Seekers" and "Comfort-Seekers". The author believed people seeking out wine pretty much fall into either one of these two categories. I think I have my moments dabbling in each, depending on my mood or life-context.

Either way, I find this 'categorization' very helpful when I'm speaking with customers or clients. You have to know when someone is willing to expand their horizons beyond the CA Cab they have come to know and love; or if they are willing to travel, you have to gauge in which direction it is best to push them (gently).

Do you consider yourself either an adventure-seeker or comfort-seeker? Are you a little of both?

(For all of you out there who have been tuning in silently, this is your chance to post your thoughts!)

Are you "overwhlemed"?

You may have seen one of the fairly recent articles written on the Project Genome wine study arranged by Constellation Wines, U.S.. As far as I can tell, the goals of the project are: first, help retailers and restaurateurs understand where wine consumers are coming from (you know, in terms of their head space or gut when they go to make a purchase); and second, use that information to make their wine-buying experience a bit more user-friendly. I like the idea... in theory. The initial study (of two) considered what motivated (3500) wine consumers. The researchers were able to group folks into one of six categories: Enthusiasts (12%); Satisfied Sippers (14%); Savvy Shoppers (15%); Traditionalists (16%); Image-Seekers (20%); and Overwhelmed (23%).

I am dying to know what questions they asked and how they came up with these various categories et. al.. I'm also curious how consumers who aren't thinking about wine 24-7 feel about them (hence my post!). For me, they don't really work, both in terms of myself and in terms of the folks I chat with at the shop and during my tastings.

Nevertheless, a lot of hoopla has resulted because the largest consumer group (23%) fell into the "overwhelmed" category. These folks are said to be those that like to drink wine but rely on information readily available when they go to make their purchase. If no such information is available - in print or through a knowledgeable store clerk/sommelier/waiter - they get flustered and flee.

It seems everyone (in the media) is talking about using this 23% to leverage some kind of revolution in wine accessibility. The idea is that if we (in the industry) tell you what a wine is going to taste like, you'll be a happier, more savvy shopper. In theory, they may be on to something. But my experience tells me that you can't just tell someone what a wine will taste like, in person or on a shelf-talker or by giving it 90+ points. Wine is history. Wine is local culture, flavors, cuisine, terroir, and varietals. Wine is an art. And, wine is a very personal, individual experience. That's what makes it special.

As Alice Feiring says, otherwise "wine would be another beverage, a soft drink, something you could flick a switch and come out of a faucet."

My advice? If you're new to this game or stuck in a rut or find yourself overwhelmed, pull yourself up by your boot straps, grab a bottle and then taste, discuss and even Google it! Just be sure to savor the full experience of it!

Do you find yourself often "overwhelmed"? How would you characterize your buying?

Red "Only" and White Wine "Only" drinkers...UNITE!

At the shop I work with some pretty great people. At worst they are wine curious and food aficionados (just like me). So after such a great weather weekend here in Boston I woke up rejuvenated and eager to hear what the others had been up to on a rare holiday off and - most importantly - what they ate and drank. Almost immediately I learned my coworker had also broken out her Weber - except she not only had thrown buffalo meat on the fire, but also pulled out a bottle of Rose to pair with it. This was nothing short of brilliance. I realize you may have just re-read my last two lines twice and are asking "Rose? Isn't that the horribly sweet pink wine my parents used to buy in a box and drink every night? White Zin or something?". Well, I suppose it could be as a few (American) folks are still making those wines. But likely if you're seeing pink wines fill the aisles or cooler at your wine shop and getting more mention on wine lists these days, those would NOT be the same wines our parents drank out of a box (or a 1.5L bottle). They would more likely be phenomenally tasty, DRY wines that pair with just about any fare and are at their best during warmer (or outright HOT) months.

Rose wines result when dark grape skins are allowed the briefest contact with the juice. This approach imparts a few mind-bottlingly fabulous things: just a hint of red pigments to give the wine its pink-ish color; just a touch more oomph (or body); and a kiss of tannin, so the wine is still at its tastiest when chilled but can also 'hold up' to heartier foods (like buffalo meat).

Rose sales in the U.S. have really started to take off the last few years. So at the shop we've worked to anticipate the demand and pre-order wines that are known to be tasty, sought-after finds. What's interesting is as we were recounting our weekend stories and getting the wine back in order, we noticed that one of our favorite Roses hasn't taken off quite as quickly this year. Is it because of the economy? Is it because our clientele is still waiting for (more consistent) warmer temps? Is it because folks aren't sure the (much-deserved) hype is worth trying some?

All I know is that Rose can be made from any red grape varietal and, as a result, there is something for everyone. Some of the most gorgeous offerings come via Tavel, France. Another one of my personal favorite styles is made from the Cabernet Franc grape; and these can also be sparkling. Yum! If you are even more of an adventure-seeker, apparently Slovenia is even dabbling in Rose. The point is ROSE IS GOOD. So go out and buy a bottle. And if you and your loved one can't agree on white or red wines, buy two (different ones, for the sake of experimenting, please).

Do you drink Rose? Why/not?

Excuse me... I ordered a Malbec, not a Margarita?!

It is only fair I muse on great libations for grilling on this (lovely here in Boston) Memorial Day. Plus, I love Margaritas and I love Malbec. Malbec was the first varietal I really discovered outside of the most well-known US reds (cab, merlot, pinot noir). Heck! It was my first real exposure to wine outside of the US and all I had done was buy a bottle from Argentina. It was love at first sip! I haven't really stopped trying them since. Of course it doesn't hurt that working at the shop we're always tasting new Malbecs. Many of them are solid wines and still relatively inexpensive; we can afford to "mix it up" for our customers. Last week one of my favorite importers/distributors brought another one by the shop for us to taste. I put my nose in the glass and... MARGARITAS!

Yep, I smelled margarita in my wine glass. Yet there was no tequila or lime juice in sight. I took a look at the wine again and went in for a sip. It was a fairly typical Malbec on the mid-palate. Juicy, red berry fruit, smooth (from the oak, no doubt) with hints of spice. There was definitely some of that margarita 'essence' on the finish. Still, not too shabby. It took me a second to put the pieces together... My Margarita association was with the saline (salt) scents and flavors imparted in the wine. That was a new one for me and my beloved Malbec. My wine brain told me it had to be the soil... or was it?

Later I researched my suspicion. The Mendoza/Lujan de Cuyo region in particular is known for its sandy soil - and the saline imparted from aquifers near the surface. Very cool. (It's always nice to know I'm not going crazy and that by paying attention to my senses while tasting wine, I'm getting more out of the experience and learning more to boot!)

It was a good reminder too. I may be an academic at heart, but for wine the classroom is your glass. You don't always need to "study" all of the elements so much as let your nose and tongue do the walking. The more you do, the more you learn.

When's the last time your nose led you somewhere new?

Newsflash: Red Sox and Wine 2008

Were you one of the many Boston-area Red Sox fans who grabbed a bottle of the Schilling Schardonnay or Caber Knuckle last year? If so, I hope you were one of the first to home plate (aka your local wine shop)! Those who purchased these wines early in the game had a chance to taste some good (for what it is) wine benefiting great charity organizations. Unfortunately I was one of the ones who tasted the wine in extra innings - after the demand had exceeded industry expectations and the scramble for more juice compromised quality. Never fear! The professionals behind the magic are attempting to hit consistent grand slams this year with their newest Boston Red Sox Charity Wines line up: Vintage Papi (cab/merlot blend); Captain's Cabernet; and SauvigYoouuk Blanc. They've gone West this year to Selby Vineyards (not to Chile as they did in '07) to produce these 2008 releases. The goal is to ensure there is enough good juice to go around.

Here's the scoop! In the Boston market, the first pitch was thrown for the 2008 lineup last Thursday at the EMC club at Fenway Park. Big Papi, Varitek and Youk were all there to toast the wines so it's possible you've seen recent publicity on the wine and the charities their proceeds benefit. If you've read more than one article, you may also have seen some inconsistency in what's written about what's actually available. Tricky!

To sort it all out, I've gone right to the source (aka the MA distributor of these products): First, we drank all of the Schilling Schard and CaberKnuckle last year. If you're local wine shop still has a few bottles clanking around, grab one (if you dare)! There is no more of either of these wines available. Second, you'll have to wait another couple of weeks before the 2008 series will be available. The wine is mellowing from its trip from the west coast before it will land on your local wine rack.

Of course, I'm dying to know... Did you grab a bottle last year? Which did you try? How did you like it?

Note for readers in other US markets: Charity Wines is working their wine/athlete/charity mojo in at least 3 other cities - New York, Cincinnati and Atlanta. I'd be curious your experiences with those wines, too!

Science is fun! If not sometimes problematic...

Wine making is a science project. Heck, the entire liquor industry is one big experiment! That's a big part of what makes wine so darn fun to taste and learn about. So here's my latest evidence... Last Thursday night I wanted a nice glass of something "comforting" with my dinner. I had a bottle of a baby (e.g. $10) 2005 Bordeaux in my wine fridge I knew would scratch the itch perfectly. I unscrewed the cap (yep! a screw cap, so no fear of a corked bottle), poured myself a glass and began sipping. It was exactly as I remembered: bright red-berry fruit with hints of caramel, a supple mouthfeel, gentle tannins and a lingering, slightly spicy finish. I finished the first glass with dinner and poured myself a second while I watched the game. Yum. Since it was a 2005 Bordeaux, I decided to cap the bottle (rather than pump the air out) and tucked it back in my fridge for another night or two to see what it would do.

On Saturday night I was psyched to pull the bottle back out with dinner. I let it warm up to room temperature and poured my boyfriend and I each a glass. I was still munching when he went in for a sniff.... "Vanilla! No, BUTTERSCOTCH? Is it supposed to be like that?", was the reaction my previously yummy wine elicited. And, NO. It was not supposed to be like that. It not only smelled exactly like a butterscotch candy, it tasted like it. We dumped the bottle and moved on (yea back up wines). The experience got me thinking... can a wine start out great/normal and then turn out to be flawed?

So I did some additional research... What I learned was the wine could have been affected with too much diacetyl. Sometimes this can be a good thing, as the wine takes on buttery, nutty or even caramel-ish tendencies. I don't mind essence of caramel at all in my wine - either sniffing or sipping! What I find fascinating is that the mild caramel flavor I tasted on Thursday night could devolve SO dramatically so as to render the wine undrinkable by Saturday.

I'm going to continue my research on this phenomenon and recreate my experiment with another bottle. In the meantime, what's your experience with flawed wine? Do you know something more about Diacetyl?