food & wine, a river, a park, some bands and a good cause

Romance is half the fun in the world of wine. Every movie is chalk full of great imagery, enticing viewers to hit the riviera and sip a cool glass of rose, picnic on a hilltop overlooking the vineyard below, or dance around barefoot in a great big vat of grapes. Music and terroir are always part of the equation, too. If you thought you couldn't live a romantic food/wine life in the Boston suburbs of Medford/Somerville, here's your chance to test the theory! This Saturday from noon to seven the Mystic River Music Festival will bring together all the necessary ingredients for a fabulous afternoon - and all the proceeds from your snacking and imbibing will go towards a great cause, the Mystic River Watershed Foundation.

I spoke with Brian Lamb, full-time owner of Our Glass Wine Co. on Route 1 and part-time mastermind behind this great event. It seems that the Condon Shell (a Medford mini Hatch Shell venue, if you will) was the inspiration behind the event. A long-time lover of the site, Lamb approached Mayor McGlynn with the idea to use the Condon Shell for an afternoon of entertainment. McGlynn was more than happy to get on board. The Shell had been recently re-acquired by the city of Medford and McGlynn had hoped to bring music and the arts back to Medford. This was a perfect opportunity.

The event will feature music from local bands, grilled fare provided by Whole Foods, crafts by local artists, and other local vendors committed to all things Green. Perhaps most noteably (from my perspective), the wines on offer will all be organic selections.... and there are some TRULY phenomenal ones in the mix.

Here's a quick preview of just three of the many wines available on Saturday:

2007 Jelu Torrontes ~ Everyone knows Argentine Malbec. Well... Torrontes will have the same U.S. following as the leading white wine varietal coming from that part of the world soon enough! Not bitter at all (as some Torrontes can be) this wine is the PERFECT summer sipper. It offers gorgeous ripe fruits, healthy acidity and a nice medium body allowing it greater food pairing versatility. A welcome treat. The Cafe Europa team is responsible for bringing this little number to the event's wine roster.

2007 Mas de Gourgonnier Rose ~ If you've tasted the standard red Mas de Gourgonnier (in the crazy, 'fat' bottle with the long neck) you know you're in for a treat with this rose. This vineyard has been making organic wines before organic was "in". And this rose is one of the best out there. It offers fabulous summer strawberry and raspberry aromas and flavors, but is refreshingly crisp and dry (as all great rose should be). A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault and Cab, it can hold up to serious BBQ magic, too. Ideal Wine Imports are responsible for bringing this to a store near you and will be donating this selection to the event.

2005 Vinos Pinol Sacra Natura ~ This is a red wine blend from the Terra Alta region of Spain (near Priorat, south of Barcelona) where the soil lacks optimal nutrients; this causes the vines to 'work harder' and results in fewer bunches but more concentrated fruit. The Sacra Natura in particular hails from a vineyard boasting 95 year old vines (read: even more concentrated fruit). A robust blend of Cariñena, Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Syrah and Tempranillo, this wine does not hold back. Ole Imports & Ruby Wines will be donating this bad boy.

Rain or shine, the Condon Shell should be your local event stop this weekend!

So, what are you waiting for? Do you plan to be 'romanced' in Medford?

Embracing your own palate: Rethore vs. Vaynerchuk

I alluded earlier this week that my take on the 4 wines Gary Vaynerchuk tasted out at the Boston Book Signing/Wine Tasting event (to air tomorrow, June 26) was a bit different than Gary's. This doesn't mean either Gary or I is "right" or "wrong". Wine Tasting is an individual sensory experience so much so that there are no strike outs in Wine Tasting. Rather... this is where the fun truly begins! I've decided to post my own tasting notes for the wines at the event for the sake of helping any skeptical readers embrace this idea. If you weren't able to attend, I hope you've had enough time to go out and purchase/taste the wines for yourself! If not, I encourage you to do so and then return for a little look-see at what I have to say about them.

For those of you who just can't help yourself and want a preview of my own insights, I've composed my notes with a touch of flourish - much like you might see on a "shelf talker" or on the back of the bottle. And I think it is worth restating that for me, the context of the wine really matters. Knowing more about the "behind the scenes" of where/why/how (etc.) the wines were produced influences my appreciation of them.

So without further ado...

2007 Vina Aljibes White

Albacete, Spain (Castilla la Mancha)

This delightfully surprising wine is a luscious blend of Sauvignon Blanc (84%) and Chardonnay (14%). In the glass it is a light golden color and offers an intriguing bouquet of creamsicles. On the palate the Chardonnay blend contributes creamy, almond flavors while its greater partner, Sauvignon Blanc, offers refreshingly crisp, citrus fruit. Easily enjoyed on its own, the Aljibes white’s fruitiness, medium-full body and mouthwatering acidity also makes it a food-friendly selection. Pair with poultry, fish or grilled veggies seasoned with olive oil, garlic and lemon.

2007 Vina Aljibes Rosé

Albacete, Spain (Castilla la Mancha)

The Aljibes rosé is made from 100% Syrah grapes, not Granacha like many of its counterparts throughout Spain. It is made from free run juice that only sees three hours of skin contact. Immediately you notice the watermelon jolly rancher color of the wine and are intrigued by its earthy, rosy nose. Ripe strawberry fruit and subtle dry tannins grace the mid-palate. A lively, juicy finish completes this wine’s symphony. The Aljibes rosé pairs with just about any dish you can imagine and could very well be the perfect answer on a hot day.

2006 Sur de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon

Mendoza, Argentina

Sur de los Andes takes a risk in producing this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza, Argentina, an area better known for Malbec. As it opens, aromas reminiscent of a recently trodden damp, forest floor lift from the glass, followed by hints of leather and cooking spices. Ripe blackberries emerge on the mid-palate and are followed by a juicy, peppery finish. Seeing only four months in oak, this is a medium-bodied Cabernet that delivers a more refined result than one might expect. Pair with red meats or even grilled eggplant and portabella mushrooms.

2005 Palacio Quemado “PQ”

Ribera del Guadiana, Spain

The 2005 PQ is another 100% Syrah selection on this flight, but this is no rosé! This wine is a striking, deep violet color. The nose immediately delivers distinct, sweaty saddle and herbal aromas. Blackberries and other red fruits fill your mouth and dance on your tongue as the benefits of six months in French oak impart just a touch of mocha and an alluring, full body. The finish has just a kick of spice. Pair with hard cheeses, lamb or BBQ fare.

Survey says...? What's your take on the wines? Any favorites on the wine flight?

Viva the Unusual Vinos! Gary V came, saw & tasted...

Last Thursday night 150 some odd Gary Vaynerchuk friends, fans and wine lovers attended his Boston Book Signing and Thunder Show tasting event at the Hotel Commonwealth downtown. The event certainly brought "the Thunder" featuring: a live filming of Thunder Show episode #494; a chance to meet Gary V while picking up a signed copy of his book; and - most impressively - a sample taste of the wines reviewed during the show. Attendees then headed downstairs to the Foundation Lounge for a special welcome cocktail, appetizers and their choice of libation (with wines from the show once again available at the bar). I must admit, though everyone gasped or groaned when Gary rated the wines between 86 points and 90 points, I was pretty impressed with the wines selected for the show given the regions that produced them. Four solid wines each having at least one unusual characteristic (hence the theme "Unusual Suspects") were on the wine flight. Vinha Alijibes winery in Albacete, Spain (Castella la Mancha region) took care of two of the wines, one a Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend and one a 100% Syrah rose.

What makes these selections so unique? First of all, Castilla La Mancha isn't one of the foremost wine making regions in Spain. You're probably more familiar with Rioja, Ribadera del Duero or Penendez (where Cava comes from). Second, when it comes to varietals used in each of these wines, these winemakers are definitely putting themselves out there. While Chard is a grape that can grow pretty much everywhere (albeit infrequently in Spain), Sauvignon Blanc is more often produced in the Loire Valley, California and New Zealand. As for the rose, Tempranillo and Grenacha are the dominant red grape varietals in Spain, with Grenacha often used for their rosado (rose) wines. Syrah is a relative new kid on the block in Spain and when used, is more often blended.

As for the reds, the 2006 Sur de los Andes Cab is, well... a Cab! From Argentina? Um, right. That's the thing. Gary may have been a bit misleading on the show, but Argentina is better known for its Malbecs; Cab's made there tend to really leave you wanting - a big glass of something else to wash away the green bell pepper flavors! At best, it is considered an 'up and coming' wine varietal there. But this Cab was a fan favorite among those that attended. And for $10, your near-impossible, under-$10-Cab search could end altogether.

Last but not least, the 2005 Palacio Quemado "PQ", another 100% Syrah attempt by Spaniards, but this time the full figured red kind. This selection is from the Ribera del Guadiana region, another lesser known wine producing region in Northish-Western Spain that essentially overlooks Portugal.

After the show ended Gary asked the crowd the following question: Do you like 1) mangos, 2) escargo and 3) sliders from White Castle? If you answered "yes" to ALL THREE of those, then you have the same palate as Gary. I answered yes to only one, mangoes. But Gary and I certainly share a similar philosophy about wine: get out there and taste!

Here's your "homework" then for this week: head out to The Wine Gallery or your local shop to pick up these wines. Taste them and then check out Gary V's episode featuring them. I'll post my own tasting notes later this week, too, for additional comparison. I'll look forward to your comments!

More on the pink stuff!

A couple of weeks ago I was on deck pouring a "sippy sip" of four different wines. Since it was bloody H O T that week in Boston, it was only fair to choose wines that were thirst-quenching or perfect for grilled fare. A South African Chenin Blanc, an Italian frizzante-styled white, a Spanish rose, and an all-American Zin were on offer. The tasters enjoyed the Chenin more than any other selection but the Rose stirred up the most conversation.... When I posted last month about rose I spoke more about what it is (juice pressed from red grapes after short-lived skin contact, so as to impart a touch of color, body and texture) and what it is not (sugary sweet!). What I didn't really get into is the myriad styles that exist. Between reps absolutely clamoring to sell the shop their rose wares before it is too late in the summer and the many conversations I had at the tasting a couple weeks back, I can't help but go into more detail today.

Let's start with the Spanish rose offered at the tasting because it goes against the grain by blending in white wine, too (egad!). Typical to the Rioja region's approach to rose, the Muga Rosado 2007 is a blend of Grenacha, Viura (a white varietal famous in the region and often used in Cava production) and Tempranillo. The wine sees about 12 hours of contact with the grape skins, resulting is a distinctly salmon color. It also is aged in wooden vats for 25 days (another Rioja/Spanish characteristic, as they are the country most famous for oak application), which contributes a touch more oomph to the wine and a certain toastiness, too. The addition of Viura is no doubt where this wine achieves its subtle tropical fruit flavors and aromatics.

Next, let's venture to France, a region well known for it's rose. I tasted Louis Chave's 2007 rose of Pinot Noir and it knocked my socks off! This wine is classified as a Vin de Pay d'Oc (or table wine). Perhaps because of this designation, I couldn't dig up more about this intriguing, delicious wine - so I'll stick to it's flavor profile and encourage others who might know more on its context to comment below. A light watermelon color, this wine has a gently, "dusty", floral nose. It is in the French style, so beautifully dry, offering simple red berry fruit flavors, just a touch of tannin and subtle, food-loving acidity. Bottom line: this wine smelled and tasted like a pinot, but dialed it back a touch to rose levels of thirst-quenching, grilled chicken-loving, yumminess.

Traveling back to Spain - because this wine was that good and 100% rose of Merlot (very cool) - let's head north to the Penedes region where Cava (Spanish bubbly) is king. The 2007 Avinyo Vi d'Agulla Rose was quite a charmer. It had a beautiful, rosey, Merlot nose. There's no other way to describe it; it just smelled like Merlot should! On the palate, it tasted like the winemaker had put rose pedals and strawberries together in the blender and then liquified them into a refreshing, slightly bold libation. This wine had terrific balance (neither fruit, nor tannin, nor acidity overwhelmed more than it should). But what I liked most about it was that it was dry but offered a refreshing crispness, and was completely worthy of a pairing with bolder meat dishes.

Hopefully this quick sampling of rose styles is enough to wet your whistle and send you heading for your local wine shop! If you are wary to experiment, start simple: pick a wine from your favorite region of the world, or your favorite grape, (or both, if you can find one!) and go from there.

Have you tried a rose before? What's your pick this year?

navigating food/wine pairing for 4...

Last Friday night I was taken out for a fabulous meal at a great, well-regarded restaurant I hadn't been to somehow. We thought the menu looked gorgeous and then the food came out even more artistically presented and attentively cooked than I've had the pleasure to enjoy in some time. But I digress... The table's biggest wine nerd, I was asked to select a bottle of wine for all to enjoy. Each of us selected a completely different entree, however, so it was no easy task - and I sense one that many of us grapple with when out with a group. Fortunately, when it comes to food and wine pairing the goal is to take things to an even higher level. It is hard to absolutely ruin a culinary experience. Think of it this way: the food can be great and the wine can be great; in an optimal pairing the two are AWESOME together. An imperfect pairing usually just means that the wine is good and the food is good. Neither destroys or substantially enhances the experience of the other. (Only when you choose a big red wine with fish can things go truly poorly - the fish ends up tasting like you're chewing on tinfoil, or metalic.)

Our dinners consisted of steak, duck confit, lobster and salmon and our host preferred whites to red. Immediately I hoped for one of the quintessential great-pairing whites on the list: dry Reisling, Albarino or even Gewurztraminer. But the white wine choices consisted of a few Sauvignon Blancs and a few oaky Chards. The SB's would have been too "sharp" to complement the beef and duck, and borderline at best given how the salmon and lobster were prepared. A buttery, oaked Chard would have been perfect for the lobster, our host's selection, but would undermine the other dishes. And at a restaurant like that one, the food deserved the attention, not the wine.

What was a girl to do?! Default to a versatile red: Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is one of the most finicky grapes to grow and make into wine (hence the often higher price tag). It requires perfect weather conditions (warm days and cool evenings). And even when all the forces of nature align, the vines yield low levels of fruit. So you're starting with less. But it's high acidity and low level of tannin can be the makings of fabulous, lighter-medium bodied, silky, gently fruity, earthy and barely tart (read: food friendly) wines.

I wasn't directly familiar with any of the three Pinots available. There were two offerings from Burgundy, France and one from Oregon. Burgundy produces drop dead gorgeous red wines but because of the finicky nature of the grape, each vintage really matters. Only the best domain's make consistently solid wines even in an off year. I wasn't familiar with either of the producers listed and didn't see any of the acclaimed (prohibitively expensive?) vintages either. And then the obvious choice leapt from the pages: an Oregon Pinot! Pinot Noir from Oregon is often sexy, with delicate texture, and soft cherry and plum fruit. I find they are often less rustic than their earthier French counterparts, too (which I love but would be less appealing to others in the party). Jackpot!

If I had taken a poll I think all of us would have agreed that the food far surpassed the wine selection on Friday night. The food was THAT good and the wine was served a touch too warm and had an unexpected kick to the finish. But all in all, it was a tasty wine that complemented our range of fare just fine.

What's your "go to" food-friendly wine?

from wierd wine to controversial wine: enter the Chinese!

Is it just me or are the Beijing Olympics stirring up all kinds of news headlines these days? One I caught this week was in regard to the unsurprisingly controversial tiger wines China has been producing for ages and ages and ages. Apparently the wines offer medicinal benefits, including help with arthritis, rheumatism and even (how come this doesn't surprise me...?) impotence. Rrrroaaarrrr!!! The tourists go crazy for the stuff! Of course the practice of using tiger carcasses drenched in rice wine is a teensy bit controversial and has rendered the wine illegal in China (since the late 80's, no less). Tigers are on the endangered species list with only several thousand held in captivity.

But with some folks willing to pay upwards of $5,000/bottle, somehow the wine is still available - if you know which alley to wander down. Go figure! If I had my choice to spend thousands on a bottle of wine and do a good deed for wildlife protection, I think I'd hold out for a really amazing bottle of Mounton-Rothschild.

What wine news story caught your attention this week?

Wine Blogging Wednesday: Cote du Rhone Blanc

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday! And so it is I have the occasion to divert from my typical blogging approach to bring news of a gorgeous, supple white wine from the Cote du Rhone, France: 2006 Chateau de Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Blanc. But first a brief introduction to this Wine Blogging Wednesday I speak of.... WBW was started about 4 years ago by Lenndevours to bring a virutal wine tasting to the global masses. A theme is selected by the monthly host and then wine bloggers select a wine they've tasted based on the theme and post their impressions on the applicable day. This month Dr. Debs is our guide. She had the brilliant idea of selecting the Cote du Rhone whites as the theme.

For me this month's "assignment" was a pleasure. The Cote du Rhone could be my favorite region in the wine making world. There is enough variation from the North to South to keep things interesting and challenging, too. The reds are full of character, offering a great sense of place and tradition - one that my palette adores. The whites are often seductive and refreshing. (Note: of course these comments are sweeping generalizations for a large and distinct region, but for the sake of keeping my posts relatively reasonable in length, I can't help but tempt you to explore for yourself. The Rhone is quite fun!)

There are nine grapes of the Rhone. The St. Cosme blends 4 of them: 50% is Roussanne and the rest is Picpoul, Clairette, and Marsanne. Roussanne and Clairette are perhaps two of the most aromatic and elegant grapes in this area - and the St. Cosme surely benefits. Marsanne and Picpoul are more often used as blending grapes (though I've had the latter on it's own and it is quite fantastically refreshing and versatile). Ok, so those are the grapes... "What about the wine?!", you ask?

I was shocked by the St. Cosme's stunning gold color. I couldn't wait to put my nose in the glass! I gave it a swirl and initially found the nose to have hints of petrol followed by intense, ripe pear aromas. As it opened and warmed slightly (it has been HOT in Boston), honey notes emerged. My first taste did not disappoint either. It had an incredible, fleshy-full, mouthfeel and flavors of pear and other tropical fruits danced around in my mouth. It paired well with my meal, too: cucumber dill & walnut salad, grilled tandoori chicken and red potatoes. This wine received my highest "rating": YUM!

I believe every taster has their own experience with and impressions of a wine; that's why I don't blog to rate wines, but rather focus on giving you the 'back story' or other tidbits about wine to increase your curiosity to play (read: taste) as much as possible. After tasting a wine for myself, I often investigate to see what other's think. Sometimes I completely agree, sometimes I don't. Sometimes I laugh at how someone can say a wine is "close to being outstanding" (first, what exactly does that mean??) and then rate it only 89 points.

My recommendation? Go out and splurge on the St. Cosme Cote du Rhone Blanc! Taste the wine and then check out Spectator's and Parker's notes or Google it for more info. After I selected the wine I realized Gary V tasted this wine out not that long ago, too. So there's lots of entertaining reading out there as you sip. Cheers!

wine and real life: what's your wine economy?

I don't know about you, but with the Euro/Dollar scenario, an increase in gas prices and my grocery bill skyrocketing (despite similar buying habits), I'm looking at my life budget a bit differently these days. A few weeks ago I noticed it's actually getting to be cheaper to eat out than stay in! And I can't tell you how many wine blogs and articles I've read that talk about 'value wines' in a different or more concerted way. At the shop we're not sure how things are going to go this summer. We keep refilling the racks so we know we're still selling a ton of wine... Usually the summer in Boston is slower because people head to the Cape over the weekend. But - as I mentioned - with gas at $4/gallon, people may be more inclined to stay closer to home once the kiddies are out of school. We're not sure. But we're definitely choosing wines even more carefully. If a wine's price has gone up beyond it's worth, we're finding other options for our customers. That's just good business, I think.

Lately I keep wishing I had gotten in on the industry 10 years ago when I first got out of school and kick butt wines were $8-$10. I'd be tasting all sorts of phenomenal wines no one would have qualms about opening - now the "investment" is just too great. But I digress....

The good news about wine is that things will come back down - at least Old World wines. We're "suffering" because of the exchange rate, rather than because European winemakers have jacked their prices for the hell of it. What I don't understand - and I'd love to hear from some CA/domestic producers on this one - is why American wineries aren't taking full advantage of this opportunity to sell their wines at a more affordable rate, that is, keeping their prices more static this year. I know they are spending more on gas to get their wines shipped out, but I also know that companies are being much more efficient in their distribution system.

I don't have the answers on any of this despite all I've read and seen, but I'm curious to glean your feedback. What's your wine economy like these days? How has the global economic situation impacted - or not - your wine consumption, spending or sales/pricing strategy?

surprising sippers - maybe not a trend, but definitely "news" worthy

If you love blueberry pie, attempt to sneak the last of the cranberry sauce at Thanksgiving dinner or have an obsession with raspberry jam, keep reading.

A few weeks back one of our reps came by the shop with a unique offering. He had with him a gentleman from New Jersey who was pitching his fruity wines. New Jersey is a rare bird in the wine world as is. But this was also not the typical grape-based wines we all know and love. These were wines made from blueberries, raspberries, bing cherries and cranberries. My colleague and I took one look at the wines as they emerged from their cooler and nearly sent the duo packing. After all, we buy wines for a FINE wines shop and pride ourselves on our unique, quality selections.

That said, we are professionals first and foremost. So we let the pair of salesmen know we would taste the wines, but gently aired our concerns too. (Best to have low expectations and remain non-committal in these sorts of situations.) The wines were poured. The wines were sampled. And the wines won us over. We brought in a sample case (4 of each) of the wines we tasted. Can you imagine? I'm still surprised! But since I'm also a lover of a great martini and can appreciate the myriad benefits alcohol contributes when creating gorgeous sauces and other fare, I had to be an advocate for the Tomasello selections.

This winery also makes more typical wines though fewer of those wines have won any awards. Granted, New Jersey isn't well-known for their wines; but I did read recently Windows on the World sports a solid NJ cab on their wine list. Who knew?

Have you ever tried a fruit wine? How about wine from NJ?

a French kiss

At a wine tasting party in April I told my client's guests that to me, there's nothing better than a wine with a killer barnyard nose. "Manuer," they asked skeptically? "That's it," I replied happily! The French are just so darn good at getting the terroir (read: earth, climate et. al. from whence the grapes were grown) into the wine. I'm not saying the wines I love taste like manuer. Of course, not! For me the kiss of French terroir means that wine is part of a uniquely local, mini-ecosystem and critical wine-making process that makes the wine unique. As I'm sure you've noticed, I find this all fascinating to study. Limestone, clay, stones, sand.... As soon as I did, my wine appreciation and pleasure sky-rocketed because I had a broader context to reference (e.g. France, the winemaking history/tradition, the types of soil, the culture, the food...).

While the concept of terroir is not limited to France, it sure has gotten a reputation there and elsewhere in Europe. Here in the US it may be too soon to tell how much the flavors of the earth are getting into the wines. These things can take a few years as the newer vines mature and produce more concentrated fruit. American vines are but wee toddlers in comparison to older vines of Europe!

I think the great debate that sometimes pops up around whether or not there is truth to the impact of terroir on a wine is a bit cr*p. (I can't help but wonder if we Americans are just too marketing/sales-oriented and stodgy to appreciate someone else's fine work - not to mention centuries perfecting it!) Each wine making region, wine maker, the vineyards and those who work them play an important role in producing a wine. Isn't it just refreshing to think that each of those fingerprints leave their marks?

What are your sediments (no pun intended)? Are you a believer in the impact of terroir?