Go for the Gold: 2 simple steps to wine heaven

I think many of you can relate when I say I have my "people" for certain services. Hair stylist. Massage guru. Acupuncturist. Physical Trainer. Plumber. You get the idea.... My relationships with these people are critical to the quality of service I receive. My hair stylist recently moved down to Florida, for example. She was fabulous and it took me three other stylist before I "found" her. We shared 3 years of snip-snip bliss. Now, I'll have to make a new investment to find the right person to meet my needs. At least I'm one step closer to hair cut heaven - I like the place I go to. It's the same when it comes to wine. Two weeks ago I met a couple at a Pour Favor tasting. They were lamenting the selection at their local liquor store. Challenge #1? Liquor stores may (claim to) have a fine wines selection, but if they aren't geared toward wine in particular then they likely aren't seeking out new, quality selections. More likely the "fine" in Fine Wines is up for grabs; you'll notice they stick to the mainstream wines we see so often. I doubt whether they even taste the next vintage of the standard wines they carry each year. Challenge #2? They likely do not have staff on hand who have specialized wine knowledge and are equipped to take you from Yellow Tail* to Yippee!

* I have nothing against Yellow Tail, just that there's an ocean of wine out there even more worthy of exploration. I use it here merely as a reference point on this perspective - and because the 'Y' alliteration was fun.... what can I say?

You may have noticed above that I use the word "challenge" rather than "problem". This is intentional. I believe there's no such thing as a problem, only an opportunity for a creative solution. In the case of wine:

#1 ~ Find yourself a Fine Wines shop that offers a wide selection of wines from across the world at reasonable/competitive prices...

#2 ~ With staff who have specific wine knowledge and are available to help you find an appropriate selection given your particular search (e.g. dinner at a friend's, wine to have on hand for whenever, etc.).

It is worth taking these two, simple steps. Everyone/store has a specialty. If your local is more concerned with beer or lottery sales than stocking their shelves with unique wine finds, you should search out a fine wine shop. Maybe you end up purchasing a case of wine (and enjoying the store's discount as a result) and pop in every couple of months rather than every week because they aren't as close by. It's worth it. A store with a wine buyer who knows their craft is incredibly valuable. Just remember figuring out your wine preferences won't happen over night. Just like with your beloved barber/stylist, you should be prepared to invest time in your relationship with the shop's buyer. And remember the onus is on you to tell the buyer what you did or did not like about a particular wine they helped you to select. (Taking notes on a wine is never a bad idea.) Such due diligence will help get you to "Yippee!" a heck of a lot faster.

Do you have a Wine Shop/Buyer you rely on? What are your standards of 'care'?

Splish splash wine in a glass... and other Friday finds!

dog-days-of-summer

It's warm and sunny and... it's FRIDAY! A few wine-related tidbits caught my attention for this post. Rather than "reporting" myself, I'm going to give you a few article links to help you get through your work day and get you closer to your weekend. We only have a few summer Friday's left, so you might as well dig in! First and foremost, I was pleased (and a little surprised) to read that the California harvest has begun and the outlook promising. I know harvest time can begin in August (depending on the grape and location); but it was a little frightening to realize how quickly summer has flown and how near September is. And there have been interesting reports on how the wildfires may/not impact this vintage. Seems like all is on the up and up so far! Check out what Jenna Hudson has to say at Wine Spectator.com.

Lovers of Italian wines and those who have developed particular affection for the grape Montepulciano d'Abruzzo are mourning the loss of another impactful member of the wine community: Gianni Masciarelli. At the young age of 53, Masciarelli died of a heart-related condition. He is known for revitalizing Abruzzo's fame as a leading Italian appellation in the early 80's with his Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Villa Gemma release. His friend Monica Larner of Wine Enthusiast wrote a beautiful, commemorative piece last week.

If you're so lucky as to be pulling up your beach chair this weekend and breaking out your summer reading, you're invited to join this month's Wine Book Club. Natalie MacLean’s Red, White and Drunk All Overis on deck this month. If you've read Tasting Pleasure: Confessions of a Wine Lover by Jancis Robinson then you'll be in for a particular compare/contrast treat, I'm told. Give it a go! The dog days of summer are still among us. Before we know it we'll be gearing up for the Holidays (egad!!).

Which type of enthusiast are you?

A) Satisfied Sipper ~ excited to see how the rest of the CA '08 harvest unfolds.

B) News junky ~ saddened by Masciarelli's death.

C) Beach Bum ~ grateful for another good read!

Wine Blogging Wednesday: 2004 Tobin James Dusi Vineyard Zin

Big, red, New World wines (California and Australia) were my first real introduction to the wine world. My Phoenix upbringing/roots made those wines easily accessible in the local market; meanwhile, my older brother and sister-in-law had gotten a jump start on traveling to the CA wine country in search of the best wines on offer. I can't remember exactly which year it was they came across Tobin James Cellars. But I know it was early in their wine making history (mid/late 90s). Tobin James became not only a staple those first years I returned from college for Christmas vacation but also during the summers, when my brother would bring a case to our little vacation spot in Rhode Island. These wines were always a particular treat. On a more daily basis I admittedly spent my pennies on Yellow Tail and Buckley's (a topic for another day, perhaps...). So for this Wine Blogging Wednesday where Lenndevours encouraged us to celebrate WBW's 4th Birthday by returning to our roots, of course Tobin is a natural choice for me. Even though Tobin is a rare find in these parts - especially when it comes to the really good stuff - I happen to have a secret stash in my cellar. The challenge this WBW was not which producer to return to, but rather which wine (read: varietal) to select. I decided to go with the '04 Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel, since Paso Robles is largely Zin Country and I've found Tobin's Dusi Vineyard selection to be consistent vintage after vintage.

I could look at a line up of Tobin red wines and be in heaven. This one was an inky, deep, violet color as it flowed out of the bottle and into my glass. Made from 80-year-old vines such concentration comes as no surprise, nor the fact that it offered bright, juicy fruit, just shy of the fruit bomb jammy explosion I often associate with this part of the world. The wine had just a touch of smoke too, with some earthiness and typical black pepper notes, which sang a soft tune on the finish. I'm not sure how much oak this wine sees, but it doesn't feel heavy-handed; rather the oak imparts a smooth, lush, sexy mouthfeel that sucks you in for another taste. It is well-balanced, with the acidity and tannins commingling happily with the fruit's fleshy, fullness. If you've got a bottle, I encourage you to decant it. I didn't this time because I wasn't sure I would finish the bottle - and actually wanted to taste it again after a day or so. But I definitely got a little extra "protein" on Day 2 as I polished it off.... A final note of applause: this wine doesn't bring the exceptional heat you might expect for a wine coming in at 15.6% alcohol; the layers of flavor are what you remember.

As much as perhaps 90% of my wine expenditures support Old World producers these days, each time I pop open a bottle of Tobin James I'm uniquely satisfied. Granted I'm likely a bit biased because this wine is from my roots. But I'm ok with that. Satisfaction is as satisfaction does.

What wine helps define your wine-drinking "roots"? Have you ever enjoyed a Tobin James selection?

Put to the test: rocky mountain oysters and appropriate wine pairing

This weekend I was put to the test while bantering with some folks about wine/food pairing. The query? Rocky Mountain Oysters. At first all I heard was what to pair with oysters. Then I played back the moment and realized there was more to it - and, in fact, this was a new one on me. Once I found out what they were, well, being a lady from urban parts, I was stumped. That said, I was humored by the cajones (pun intended) the fellow had to ask this particular question; I did a little quick recipe searching to see what kind of preparation is common when serving these rare appetizers. If you are like me and haven't had the chance to taste these wholesome nuggets, Rocky Mountain Oysters reportedly don't have any distinct flavor on their own. At best, they can be likened to liver. I wasn't surprised to see they also fall under the "chewy" category; perhaps combined with the fact that they are considered a delicacy, this is where they get their "oyster" name association? These little gems are most often seasoned, breaded, deep fried and served piping hot with all kinds of fun dipping sauces.

Why is this helpful to know? When it comes to food/wine pairing it is never a bad idea to consider: a) how the item will be prepared (e.g. grilled, steamed, fried); b) what dressing/marinade/seasoning is involved and/or c) what will accompany the dish, as side dishes are sometimes a good place to focus particularly when less distinct proteins like chicken, fish or even turkey are on offer. These other culinary 'features', if you will, impact the weight, richness and/or fruitiness/earthiness of the dish and help guide which beverage might be the best option. For example, baked cod seasoned with olive oil, garlic and pepper is much different than cod deep fried in beer batter (aka fish and chips).

Back to our delicacy item in question then, when dealing with a fried food, a great pairing is almost always answered by something bubbly - whether that's a cold brew, or a dry sparkling wine like Champagne or Prosecco. You could also opt for something high in acid and lighter bodied, like Sauvignon Blanc. Or, if wine is in fact your preference, do both! Pick up a bottle of the La Tosa Valnure, a dry, frizzante (slightly sparkingly) Italian white wine made from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. The lighter style of these white wines and the crispness offered by the additional acidity that defines them allows your palate to 'regroup' and get ready for another rich bite of fried, goodness.

Have you ever had the chance to savor a Rocky Mountain Oyster? What was your beverage of choice?

Latebreaking News: Stelvin wine enclosures can produce corked wine

I'm sure you have read numerous articles about how the world of wine is changing via the Stelvin screwcap bottle closure. The idea is to eradicate the 5-6% of all wines that end up "corked", a particular wine flaw imparted by natural cork and one you'll notice immediately if the wine you are about to sip smells like basement or wet cardboard. Australia took the Stelvin closure ball and ran with it within the last eight years or so. New Zealand nearly only uses screw caps now. And even old World producers in Germany, Austria and Switzerland are embracing the concept more and more readily. France and Italy aren't that far behind, either. A side note: I find some of the resistance to screwcaps among old world producers entertaining given many of these countries had a hand in testing the new closures back in the '60's and '70s. I appreciate the winemaker's concern for wines like Bordeaux or Burgundy, which require aging and for which a cork closure is a benefit; but when it comes to wines made for drinking within a year or two, where's the hold up? Here we have yet another example of the conflict between "science" and "tradition" rearing its ugly head.

I was shocked to hear first-hand this week that a 2007 case of French wine with Stelvin screwcap closures landed in a Massachusetts warehouse - and the wine was corked.

"Corked", you ask? Indeed. Corked. "But didn't the guys at Hogue Cellars "prove" to us that was now impossible with use of the Stelvin?" I thought so, too, but apparently there are some exceptions to the rule. The source I heard this report from was there for the big moment of truth. He reported matter of factly, "the wine smelled like wet cardboard".

I poked around on-line to see if there were any such similar reports. I came up empty. Perhaps no one's talking about it yet because they don't want to believe it. Or perhaps this technology is so darn new there's still room for error and we're just finding out over the course of things. Don't get me wrong. I'm not all that alarmed by this revelation. I'm sure we're looking at cap flaws happening VERY rarely. The thing that's got me scratching my head is how the flawed wine still had the aroma and taste of a corked wine. To me that's something uniquely imparted by actual, natural cork, not something that's manufactured....

Is this news to you, too?

Cataratto ~ a unique find

Though it's raining and 63 degrees here today in Boston, it's still summer. That means our wine reps are bringing out all the clever white wines they can find to further enhance the shop's boutique selection of wines - before it gets more permanently chilly and whites lose some of their selling power. Yesterday I had the opportunity to try Cataratto, an interesting native grape varietal from Sicily, Italy, TWICE. It used to be (and perhaps still is ~ reports vary) the second most planted grape varietal in Italy. Still never heard of it? It also is/was more often used as a blending grape in wines like Marsala, you know the wine you've probably at least had once as part of the veal/chicken dish you ordered at your local Italian joint. (We'll save the longer story on why Marsala has been relegated to cooking status for another wine Wednesday post. Back to the specific wines then...)

The first offering of the day was the La Piazza Catarratto (100% Catarratto), a wine that sees no oak but does undergo some malolactic fermentation. Why do these details matter? When you're tasting a new (to you) varietal for the first time it is always interesting to find out how it was made to understand how 'authentic', if you will, the flavor profile is. Since this 100% offering is fermented in stainless steel tanks, the fruit's flavors unto themselves are better preserved. No oak nuances would be present in the wine. The malolactic fermentation process however can impart a creamier mouthfeel/texture, which may distract from a full appreciation of Catarratto in its birthday suit. Either way, I must admit I was pleasantly tickled by this wine (and it's low price). It offered notes of apricots and honey and then also delivered some citrus and light cream (the latter profile likely the result of the malolactic fermentation it underwent). It wasn't hugely layered with flavor, but for an everyday Italian white wine, this wasn't bad at all. A solid first impression was had.

Later in the day another rep strangely/ironically came by with a Catarratto/Grillo blend, made by Ajello and under the name Majus. Very cool once again. Grillo is also a native grape to Sicily (translates to cricket) often blended into Marsala. But it is becoming more and more known in the US as one of the best whites from the region on offer. It typically brings flowers and citrus to the table, with some tropical fruits and spice, too. It's a great match for fish dishes (think Mediterranean culture of the island). The blend of the two grapes was quite a delicious result! It had some umph to it, too. (I'll have to keep my eye out for another 'straight up' Catarratto sans malolactic fermentation, sans oak treatment, to see if that extra umph is something the varietal brings all on its own.)

Have you crossed paths with Catarratto? What's your take on it?

pooches in the vineyard

Whenever I've traveled to wine country I've noticed a plethora of dogs hanging out in/around the winery. I didn't think too much about it, figuring pets/animals and rural areas go hand in hand. It always seemed like a great opportunity to ensure a 'friend' was always nearby and an astute property "scout" was happy to help keep an eye on things. I've also been noticing how many pooches appear on labels. A great marketing ploy, I always thought, but it never occurred to me that there might be something more to it. This weekend I was preparing for a private wine tasting party I have coming up. I always like to find out interesting little "fun facts" about the wines I'm introducing; this supplements the more traditional wine information I impart on my clients' guests, too, and helps make a particular wine memorable in another way. I soon discovered that there is a specific reason they use a dog on the Yalumba Y-Series Shiraz/Viognier label. It symbolizes the necessary and fabulous "mateship" between winemakers and growers. Without the other, they wouldn't have anything to cheers to, if you know what I mean.

That one piece of information prompted me to make a more meaningful connection between vineyards and their pooches. I did a little digging to see if there was something more to having dogs around the property and couldn't resist sharing today what I learned.

In California they recently started training golden retrievers to sniff out a troublesome little bug: vine mealy bugs. The bug is new-ish to California and is creating quite a stir. Perhaps not of the same destruction caliber as phylloxera, this little guy is still no fun. When he eats he excretes a sugary, "honeydew" substance that becomes a happy stomping ground for sooty mold. Imagine a grape cluster infested with the honeydew, mold, egg sacs and more mealy bugs and - yep - you're pretty grossed out, not to mention the grapes are completely unusable in wine production and the vines are seriously compromised.

An article on Land of Pure Gold describes just how helpful trained retrievers can be in reducing the impact of these pests. Tim Tesconi writes, if a dog identifies a vine as being infested it can be removed or treated with insecticides. Pinpointing infested vines allows growers to spray specific sites rather than the whole vineyard, which is not only less costly but better for the environment. Cheers to environmentally friendly! Cheers to on-going wine production!

There's plenty more out there on dogs in the vineyards, too. Take a look at some of the cute faces captured at Winery Dogs. As for me, I know what my next toast will be: to the pooches!

What other vineyard dog fun facts have you come across or experienced first hand?

Darwin, God and wine...

What is surprising to me is that wine traditions are so often seen as antithetical to science, wrote known wine blogger and enthusiast Dr. Debs of Good Wine Under $20 earlier this week. I have to say, I quite agree.

Dr. Debs was reporting on her experience at Taste 3, a Mondavi creation now in its third year. The idea is to bring together great minds from across industries and throughout the world to explore the interrelationship between art, food and wine. From what I gather (and please edit me if I'm wrong), each year they pick one larger, umbrella theme and then break the conference into mini-sessions to discuss this from different angles and offer multiple perspectives. Debs argued four main themes emerged at this year's conference: tradition, science, sustainability and activism. What struck me about her report was the dichotomy between tradition and science, something we often grapple with no matter what walk of life we come from or what specific context is the focus.

With Deb's note that sustainability was also on the table at Taste 3, let's briefly consider the practice of biodynamic farming/winemaking given the tradition/science debate. These folks spend a lot of time applying their natural, soil science formulas to their vines, working their land in concert with the cycles of the moon, etc. with their end game to create a self-sustaining system where the land gives back what it receives (in theory, great freaking wine). Some suggest this approach began in the 1920s. My suspicion is it started a hell of a lot earlier than that; it wasn't until someone (Rudolf Steiner) started talking about it that it became a "known" entity, or a "real" practice. I respect the philosophy behind the practice and admire the additional dedication it takes to apply these practices to the art/science of wine. Whatever Higher Being you may/not believe in, biodynamics requires Faith, or a firm belief in something for which there is no proof.* And I believe faith, at its core, is the original, most basic human tradition.

* How can I say there is "no proof" that these wines are "better" than their counterparts? There's too much that goes into winemaking for anyone part of the equation to be wholly responsible for the quality of the result.

I struggle to see why an 'either or' is constantly demanded during any such debate considering the past and the future. It is the marriage of the two that, for me, strikes the most relevant balance: where we are today. Do I believe in tradition when it comes to wine making? Absolutely. Do I believe in applying new techniques? Absolutely.

What's your perspective on tradition vs. science when it comes to wine?

just a little 'squeeze'!

A couple of Wednesdays ago we talked about minerality and I promised to return to the topic of acidity, in terms of why it may/may not really matter. To simplify things for you in an already busy world, here's a quick excerpt to refresh your memory re: the basics on acidity: If you smell a wine and your mouth waters, you are detecting acidity in the wine. If you take a sip and detect a bit of a tingling sensation on your tongue and/or the inside of your cheeks start to water, you’re also in the money. Acidity heightens the flavor of foods, or makes the wine more “food-friendly” (and also helps it age). This is a great thing, so long as the wine offers complementary amounts of fruit and tannin to balance the acidity present. This is also described as a wine where all the major components (acidity, fruit and tannin) are in balance. Too much acidity and you’ll experience a razor blade slicing through the center of your tongue. Not my idea of a good time….

Wait... what was that? Acidity actually heightens the flavors of foods? How can something sour be a good thing?!

Case in point: A couple of years ago I had the great pleasure of making a trip to Cyrpus, a small island in the Mediterranean. I had been to the south of Spain earlier in my life, but this trip really allowed me to experience the Mediterranean culture and cuisine because I was staying with my friend's family. I had a unique opportunity to enjoy the best homecooking and the freshest (of already fresh) fruits and vegetables. Because these ingredients were so juicy on their own, salad took on a whole new meaning. There was no need for even their amazing olive oil to dress it. A squeeze of lemon became our daily marinade - for EVERYTHING. The acidity in the lemon simply enhanced the flavors of the already lushiously delicious flavors of each dish. I live in a lemon-enhanced, dressing free universe to this day.

Remember when it comes to wine I also mentioned the major components of wine need to be in harmony. You want the red, white, pink or bubbly stuff to have enough fruit or other layers of flavors as well as enough dryness (tannin) to complement one another. If acidity is doing the right two-step in your glass, you'll be transported to a higher level of sensory experience, particularly where your food pairing is concerned.

How so? When you pair a wine with higher acidity with foods of a similar profile, the two produce a sweet result. Think of Italian fare and wine. Chianti (made largely from the Sangiovese grape) pairs well with red sauces or tangy cheeses like Fontina. Or think of that Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand paired with grilled veggies dressed in just a squirt of lemon juice. The veggies taste even sweeter and the wine loses some of that acidic bite it has on its own. I love rubbing a wedge of lemon on my corn on the cob, too. No need for butter at my table!

How does acidity play out in terms of various wines? Generally speaking, cooler climates producer crisper, more acidic wines. Think of the grapefruit flavors that often thrive in your glass of Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, for example. Certain grape varietals are also naturally high in acid. Through different processes (the specifics of which we'll save for another day) winemakers can manage acidity during winemaking. This is particularly important for grape varietals that are high in acid, like Sangiovese.

I admit I'm not knowledgeable about the physical or chemical science behind why acidity is such a flavor-enhancer. So if you're a science wiz or everyday food nerd who can give us the skinny, please comment below! Otherwise, I'm happy to just know from experience that there is only truth to this fabulous phenomenon.

What's your experience?

arts and crafts

I'm going to break with tradition today and start from the bottom up (i.e. with my question of the day): What do you do with your corks? I started out with a drawer, moved on to a fish bowl, supplemented with a giant, glass brandy snifter and - as of this weekend - have upgraded to a serious, 18" high, glass mason jar. When I started saving my corks several years ago, I saved them because I wanted to remember certain bottles of wine I quite enjoyed. Then it became a habit and all corks became part of my collection. Then when I was on the wine trail out west, my brother and I started asking for corks at the various wineries we visited. Once we even found a bag of them hidden somewhere and he proceeded to take handfuls of them off their hands and stuff them into my decent sized hand bag. That's when I knew I had crossed over.

Now that I'm in the industry professionally, I have the idea that I'll soon be equipped to make cool things with my corks. I have need for new trivets, for example. I also could use a 3" x 4" door mat, a message board, a serving tray, some coasters.... the list could go on endlessly. My challenge is two fold, however. First, I lack the creative genes my nieces are so lucky to have. When it comes to arts & crafts, I'm not at all endowed; (I even struggle with food presentation, which is a talent I really wish I had given my passion for food/entertaining). Second, I'm not yet at the point where I have enough corks (frighteningly) to make more than one item. A girl can only drink so much!

Peering around on-line here and there overtime, I've bookmarked some pretty cool cork art/stuff. Check out Fistera Studio to see how they managed the rug. Or pay a visit to Gabriel Wiese's website to see what he's managed! Furniture... who knew? The possibilities truly are endless for the creatively enabled. The only item I've ever managed was a cork wreath for my brother (same one referenced above), and it now hangs in his home wine cellar (I appreciate his priorities!). I wish I had a picture. That wreath is probably a foot in diameter and took me about 5 hours to put together using wire (wrapped around each cork) and two needlepoint hoops. My fingers were fairly raw afterwards from working the wire.

I'm not sure why I'm so happily obsessed with my corks. Perhaps it is because they are a dying tradition? Perhaps it is because they each have a story? I'm not going to over-think it, as I'm apt to do being a Virgo and all. Suffice to say, if you're in the Boston area and know of some cool places I can go to pick up a cork item or two, I'd appreciate your comments!