to have or not to have, that is the question...

'Going with your gut is one of the most important skills you can have in the wine world,' believes a great colleague of mine who's been doing this since before I was born. Today I'm applying that skill to my wine blogging. No doubt there are other wine news and events ideas circulating the world wide web that may be valid contenders for my Friday post. Usually there are several. But today, today, I'm going with my gut before I get side tracked with all the possibilities. Decanter's article this week about Skinner Auction House was just too intriguing to sort, sift, hem and haw over other topics you might enjoy reading about. The economy is officially in the crapper, I think we all agree by now, and yet Skinner just put up record numbers for bottles of Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Screaming Eagle and Harlan Estate. The first went for over $20K. That was triple the estimate. The Screaming Eagle went for $2,430 and the Harlan Estate broke Sotheby's April record (of $655) going for $810/bottle.

Did I say "just"? There is something to be said for the fact that the Skinner auction happened 3 weeks ago. Three weeks is like a lifetime given how much things have shifted even in the last few days.

My question - everyone's question - is which investments are most "sound" given the state of affairs we're facing. And what you can afford to invest in, if at all, is another great question. (Hell, most bloggers, shop owners, distributors and importers are talking about the extent that people's day to day wine buying habits (read: consumption) may or may not change in the coming months. Forget the idea of people making significant investments in wine!)

And then you read an article about serious cash being dropped on a bottle of wine, something that many believe is meant to be drank. Or is it...? Perspective is everything, no?  If you follow Steve Bachmann at Vinfolio, a year and a half ago he was all in favor of drinking the stuff, or investing to reinvest in your wine consumption. Today? His position may be somewhat less firm.

In these economic times, is wine an investment opportunity you might consider?

the masked monster grape, aka wines for fall: petite sirah

What better way to continue our discussion about wines perfect for fall than to start the month of October with some banter about a monster wine? Petite Sirah (note the "i" in Sirah) is also a stealthy little operator, or the masked creature standing on your front steps in just 30 days time. Boo-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! "What the heck is she getting at today," you ask with incredible anticipation and a smile dancing at the corners of your mouth?

Most people have never heard of this lesser known, somewhat cloak-and-dagger varietal. Petite Sirah is a test tube grape that actually got its start in the Rhone Valley of France. It is a cross between Syrah and Peloursin, and was originally named Durif, after it's human father. Dr. Durif developed the varietal in the 1800s to resist Powdery Mildew, to which Syrah is prone. Unfortunately being a tightly bunched varietal meant it wasn't equally resistant to gray rot. In the humid Southern Rhone this wasn't exactly a recipe for success.

Not to worry! California's drier climate provided just the breath of fresh air this varietal needed. Petite Sirah is a high-tannin, high-acid, darkly-purple grape varietal used to add structure (aka aging power), oomph (body) and/or color to other wines. So how/why the dramatic name change from Durif to Petite Sirah? It wasn't until the 1960s and 1970s that folks in California started to get particularly concerned with labeling wines per the varietals involved. And because the grape's characteristics so resembled those of Sirah, it was called Petite Syrah. (The longer story of it's confused genetic background and resolution by Dr. Meredith can be found here, via the notes of Dennis Fife of Fife Vineyards.)

So why is it so poorly known? For whatever reason - and I'm truly uncertain as to why - Petite Sirah is just not grown in major quantities. Something like 3200 acres of vines in California are considered Petite Sirah today. And so it is a cult wine. Many wine shops don't even carry it as a single varietal offering. And I don't think I've ever seen it as such on a restaurant wine list, either. But somewhere along the way I was introduced to this great monster of a wine. I enjoy it even more in the fall because it packs such a great punch - particularly when the grill is going (yea meat paired with highly structured, deeply flavored wines) and the night's are cooler (and a little something extra to warm you up never hurts)!

I'll spare you my own wine notes this post because I want you to really seek out one of these big, blackberry-fruited, peppery, single-varietal Petite Sirahs this fall. If your shop doesn't carry a single varietal offering, see if they can bring in Vinum Cellar's Pets Petite Sirah (~$12), the Peltier Station Petite Sirah (~$17) or the Mettler Petite Sirah (~$23). Once you taste these on their own you'll unmask this monster of a wine and better understand what this grape contributes when blended into wines like Trentadue's Old Patch Red or Owen Roe's Abbot's Table.

Do you enjoy this bold, inky, spicy red varietal? Which Petite Sirah is your fall pick?

unlock the magic this fall: alsatian-style pinot gris

Last week here in Beantown the weather went from gorgeous fall to stormy insanity. In some ways this is a wine buyer's dream. There's no other time of year where you can pick wines for the weekly tasting to straddle the warmer/colder, sunnier/rainier line and scratch almost every consumer's itch. And since there's so much new juice on the market, we can also introduce our customers to new products. See? There's always a silver lining (even when you now have a natural swimming pool in the backyard...)! But I'm jazzed about my topic for this Monday morning musing for another reason, too... remember last week we started talking about fall wine options? Well, for my white wine readers and gourd-lovers out there, I've also got some fall love to share!

Alsatian (style) Pinot Gris. Welcome to my happy place.

Let's start with a few basics. This grape is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. It looks almost the same as Pinot Noir (right on down to its leaves) but the grapes have a blue-grey hue. This is where it gets its name. Varietally speaking, Pinot Grigio is the same grape and simply the name used by Italian wine-makers. (This should remind you of the Shiraz (Australia/New World) vs. Syrah (France/Old World) conversation we had a few months back.)

Here's the thing. I don't like Pinot Grigio. Don't get me wrong. I know good quality Italian Pinot Grigio when I find it (so I'm happy to talk about it with those who do dig it), but it's not my personal bag. I find they are more often too thin and too high in alcohol to meet my palate's needs. I'm a sucker for bigger, fruitier whites, hence my appreciation of Pinot Gris. The Alsatian climate offers a warm, dry fall that allows the grapes to ripen fully; the grape's full, ripe sweetness is its tell-tale feature.  What's interesting is that Pinot Gris has become sweeter and sweeter in recent years, but often wine labels do not indicate any residual sugar remains. The CIVA (Comite Interprofessionnel du Vin d'Alsace) is trying to sort things out for consumers. The folks there are developing a system to help consumers navigate the range of Pinot Gris available, from sweeter to drier. (As you explore styles of Pinot Gris from Alsace, Oregon or elsewhere, be sure to ask your shop's wine manager what's what in any given bottle.)

Last week for our tasting we offered our customers a chance to experience the 2007 Helfrich Pinot Gris. For those who know what Alsace has to offer its Pinot Gris consumers, this wine sings true from start to finish. It is not a shy wine, offering a big, floral nose. It is equally rich and full in the mouth with the ripe fruit flavors carrying through to the palate. I was pleased to find the winemaker's notes accurately suggest the wine also offers a touch of smokey spice. It was a great wine to have at our tasting; many customers were surprised by the wine's sweeter edge. To me, the citrus and grass notes as well as its acidity impart a tremendous crispness to counter that effect and produce a well-balanced wine.

No surprise, I'm not the only one who is jumping on the Pinot Gris wine-writing bandwagon this fall. Katherine Cole took this topic for a test drive last week, in fact! I highly recommend checking out her musings and taking her up on her suggestions for other great Pinot Gris on the market. Oregon has been a hot bed for awesome Pinot Gris since the 1990's, with it really catching on in the last several years. Be sure to try a few offerings from that part of the world also as you investigate this versatally-styled wine. And definitely consider popping a cork when you concoct a fabulous dish of squash or pumpkin goodness this fall.

Which Pinot Gris do you fancy? What recipes do you find are great pairings?

the wine-r-cooler is buzzing...

I've been running from industry tasting to industry tasting the last few weeks, not only tasting the new releases and other new wines available this fall, but also picking up tidbits here and there about what's what and otherwise on the minds of winemakers, importers, distributors and, of course, consumers. I find it absolutely fascinating to compare these 'hallway musings' with what I read on various blog sites and in on-line trade mags. This gives me a sense of whether these conversations are local to the MA/New England market, or if they are more global. Today I can't help but give you a snapshot of these ruminations, hopefully giving you the chance to be "a fly on the (wine trade) wall"! The question of the strengthening dollar. I can't tell you how many folks have asked why wine prices are still high when the dollar is getting stronger (granted, a relative concept). No surprise, it's on everyone's mind. I can't wait myself! Well, in uncertain economic times, no one is more anxious to start sharing the 'winnings' than the importers of fine wines from Europe. After all, wine does go sour eventually! If they can't unload it then they're the ones who will really be hurting. The thing is, the wine already on shelves is wine that was purchased when the dollar was particularly weak. I think we'll see things start to turn around soon enough, though. Dr. Vino seems to have the same take. Importers are eagerly biding their time, waiting for the wares they are now buying overseas (at a better price) to come to market here in the U.S.. Check out his interview with Victor Owen Schwartz of Vos Selections to get an inside peak into this topic.

The question of the California wildfires. Here's another one I find fascinating to discuss. Several weeks ago I reported the California harvest season had started and early reports were favorable for the 2008 vintage despite the wildfires that ravaged the area. I won't get to taste these wines for another year or two or three (depending on the varietal). But there are some folks who are so lucky to get a preview! Alice Feiring reported this week an essence of smoke is present in the various wines she's sampled. She banters a bit about whether this should be considered "taint" or not; her discussion is highly entertaining - and worth checking out first hand. Her reflections (aka witty banter) is available here. If what she writes is true, I may become more of a California wine drinker in years to come... I love a little smoke in my wine!

The latest in Wine, Politics, and (silly) Journalism. It irks me when the press gets hold of some silly little thing and goes bonkers talking abou it. Don't we have anything better to do here, people?! Well, this week there's one regarding wine that in my mad wine tasting week I nearly missed. So just in case I'm not the only one, here's one for the watercooler.... Palin wine, a Chilean winery that's only in its infancy, has both taken off and taken a hit since McCain nominated Sarah Palin as his running mate. Let's just say its success depends on whether you live in a blue or red state/area in the country where this wine is available. I can't help but roll my eyes as I attach this link to Decanter's article. (If you want to read something a bit more serious on politics and wine, don't forget that Wine Book Club is discussing Tyler Coleman's latest release at the end of next month!)

What wine-related topics have been at the forefront of your newsfeed this week? What's your take on the ones I touched on here?

Back to School, aka Wines for Fall: Petit Verdot

Now that it is fall again and I see kids heading off to school clearly trying to fit in while being their own person, I'm reminded there are some fun varietals out there that don't always get the attention they deserve. And there are some perfect ones for this time of year! Let's take a closer look... Petit Verdot is a grape varietal known for contributing great depth, color and florals to wines, but also has a reputation as a Johnny Come Lately.  This black-skinned grape has a tough time ripening without consistently warm enough temperatures. In Bordeaux where it is best known perhaps, relative cool temperatures more often prevail. There Petit Verdot doesn't fully mature until the end of October, too late to really start the fall school year with the other kids.

What other kids? Well, Petit Verdot is one of the top 5 (Noble) red grapes used in Bordeux reds, alongside the bigger players Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the often smaller ones, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. No surprise, each of these grapes has an important role. Petit Verdot's most recognized (and perhaps critical) contribution is to the wine's structure or backbone, but I've noticed in print it doesn't get as much attention for some of its other attributes.

This will likely change soon enough. Case in point: my full appreciation for what Petit Verdot can contribute to its counterparts only came when I spent some time with it on its own.  And fortunately folks in California and Australia, where the warmer climates are much more conducive to this grape's maturation, are happy to give this varietal a chance to sing its own tune.

The Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot is a great example of a wine destined for the head of the class as a fall favorite. This is a great BBQ wine.  It is super dark in color, almost like the ink spilling from your pen. If you missed your opportunity to pick up some fresh mint at the farmer's market, you have a second chance by taking in the nose of this wine. It is not at all shy about delivering dark berry fruit and some dark chocolate flavors on the palate, either. The firm tannins and acidity (there's that structure it's famous for!) give this wine just the food-friendly oomph you hope for when grilled meat's on the menu.

If you've never had a chance to experience this lesser known, (lesser established perhaps?), grape varietal on it's own, your homework is to do so this fall. For those of you who have had the luck of finding a bottle of the stuff, won't you share with the class?

red wine and vegetarians, an oxymoron?

Last week a woman approached me on one of the first very cool evenings of the fall here in Boston. She explained she is a vegetarian who loves a great red wine. She told me all summer she had been drinking white because it was warm enough for it, but in her heart of hearts she really preferred reds. What did I recommend? It is true that white wines and vegetables do go well together. Certainly when fresh greens, vegetables, fruits and berries are at the ready in the summer and great big salads are more often on the menu, this is a natural choice. But white wine and veggies don't always have to be partners in crime. This is especially true this time of year when the weather is starting to turn and you are eager for a taste of red wine to warm you up!

The keys to your fall/winter veggie success? Here's a clue: think about what else happens more naturally when it is colder out and you enjoy to cook...

I'd be surprised if your answer didn't have something to do with turning on the oven and stove again. That's right! Cooking techniques can vary a heck of a lot more in the cooler/colder months because you aren't adverse to inadvertently heating up the house. And where wine is involved, you should remember from my earlier posts how you prepare a dish can drastically alter your ideal beverage options.

Another part of your answer likely has to do with the types of vegetables available to you. Case in point: my conversation with this woman quickly turned to the full-figured "earthy" vegetables available in the market this time of year. She and I started planning menus on the spot, dreaming about an enchilada stuffed with chunks of roasted butternut squash, portabella mushrooms, sweet onion, garlic and spinach and then 'garnished' with a smokey tomato sauce.

What are your red wine pairing options? Many! To start, mushrooms love Tempranillo (Rioja), Zin, Sangiovese (Chianti), Malbec and Merlot. Tomatoes love a great deal of the same wines, perhaps adding Barbera to the mix for fuller-figured entrees or Pinot Noir if your dish is on the lighter side. If you are seasoning your dish with some 'earthy' herbs (e.g. sage, rosemary, & thyme), these wines would do well also. Tending toward the more Holiday feel on a given night and tossing in some nutmeg? You could add Syrah to that initial list of reds, too. You don't have to pair with the main ingredient, but can consider what other flavors will be apparent, too.

Needless to say, if you are a vegetarian and a red wine drinker first, there is no need to feel limited! Simply tweak how you are preparing the dish to complement the wine of your choosing.

Are you a vegetarian, red-wine drinker? How do you cope?

your local wine... and news of new technology to keep you sipping happily

If  I was back behind a desk/computer 24-7 this week, I'd likely be following the latest about the market's ups and downs and supplementing with check-ins at ESPN.com to see what's being said about this weekend's football match-ups and how the baseball standings are evolving.  To add a little something different to your news feed, I can't help but share two completely unrelated, wine-related news stories that caught my attention. First, if you're local to the Greater/Boston area you may be happy (and pleasantly surprised) to learn Jewell Towne Vineyards in New Hampshire recently won accolades from Joel Stein at Time Magazine. On learning each of the fifty states produces wine, Stein apparently couldn't help himself. He set out to taste wines from each state (and clarify for the American masses whether "terroir" matters. Incidentally, he did not come to any great revelations on the terroir topic - and we all know I have my own opinion...). He learned there are some good wines out there from some unsuspecting states - and some truly horrific ones. Case in point: while Jewell Towne might have figured out a thing or two regarding their Muscat, Cape Cod Winery needs to keep at it (receiving an "undrinkable" rating for their Nobska Red).

In his tongue-in-cheek review, Stein writes  the Jewell Towne's Valvin Muscat is: sweet but balanced, with some nice mineral on the finish, like a good riesling. It's not a wine that's trying too hard or is too proud of itself. It just gets the job done right. This is one of the very few wines we drank the whole bottle of. Who knew New Hampshire was better at picking grapes than Democratic nominees?

NOTE: While I don't subscribe to rating systems per se, I DO subscribe to the idea of tasting even the most unsuspecting wines, as Stein did. Only by tasting as many different wines as possible from as many different locations around the world will you learn what you do and don't prefer. This is an important process that takes time. So have at it!

Switching gears, if you're curious about the constantly evolving wine packaging/storing world and which technologies are at play, I've found another little something for you to keep an eye out. Decanter reported an Idaho company called PakSense has developed a wine label that changes color with temperature variation. This little gizmo has been adopted by folks in WTN Services in California to prevent "cooked" wine from landing in the marketplace. I can't imagine it is a perfect system given all of the moving parts involved from wine bottling initially to actually getting the wine on shelves. But it might help.

So! Here are my questions of the day for you:

Are you from a lesser-known wine-producing state? Have you tried the local offerings?

Do you think the PakSense label is worth the extra expense?

wine blogging wednesday - a toast...

Wine Blogging Wednesday themes never cease to entertain me. This month they're a bit behind schedule, but then again, that seems to work with the theme... A Toast to the End of the Bush Era . I don't usually mix my politics and my wine, so I hope my readers will forgive this inadvertent aberration. In appreciation of your understanding, I will do my very best to keep my comments neutral and focus on the wine I selected this month for this special occasion. Have you ever had the absolute pleasure of drinking a Moscato d'Asti?

My love affair with Moscato d' Asti goes something like this... It doesn't matter if I'm celebrating something in particular and want to have something with a touch of bubbly. It doesn't matter if I've made a fabulous Thai dish or spicy curry for dinner. It doesn't matter if I just want a touch of sweetness after my meal, in lieu of "official" dessert. It doesn't matter if I'm heading out on a picnic (this concept is more of a fantasy for me than something I actually do, for some reason, but I know this would be a perfect wine for that also). And it doesn't matter if I'm settling in for another late-morning brunch watching Sports Center. These wines always scratch the right itch for me.

Northeast of Alba, in the mountain-enclosed region of Piedmont, Italy, you can find the signature grape Moscato turned into all of its magical, wine goodness called Moscato d'Asti. Technically Muscat Bianco is an ancient French varietal that goes by several different (similar) names - and is thought to be the oldest grape known to man (I just love that fact!). The practice of making this wine in a lightly bubbly, or frizzante (fizzy) style via the charmant or tank method began in the 1870. It is delicate, lightly sweet and gorgeously fruity. Winemakers must keep the alcohol low, with a maximum of 5.5% permitted by law. This means very little of the grape's natural sugar is convereted into alcohol and wine remains, you guessed it, naturally sweet! These wines are also stopped with a regular cork because the wine is under less pressure than other bubblies like Champagne, Cava or Prosecco. If you pick up a bottle you'll notice it is vintage dated (and meant to be drunk young and fresh). Drink it chilled and serve it in a regular wine glass. The bubbles are small and long-lasting on their own.

The wine I chose for this "assignment" is the 2006 Borgo Maragliano 'La Caliera' Moscato d'Asti. There is almost no information available on this wine, but fortunately I have a connection with the importer that allowed me to get an inside look...

La Caliera is made by the Galliano family who owns the 35 acres of vines on their property in the smallest DOC in Italy, Loazzolo (boasting 350 people). There is a long history and tradition in the area for making Moscato d'Asti, as I mentioned before. So while the Galliano's make other bubbly wines, this is their flagship. The name 'La Caliera' is actually a tribute to their neighbor, who was described as a generous, kind and warm-hearted woman with a noble and quiet character ~ that which is reflected in the old, limestone and marl vineyards on the property.

Smelling the wine makes you feel as though you've just entered a great, big garden. The wine offers unique aromas of fresh violets! As you take a sip, honey, peaches and apricot flavors dance on your tongue. Its trademark finish is lively, long and luscious and will leave your mouth watering from its vibrant acidity. Suffice to say, this is a wine every great leader should have in his/her repertoire. It delivers only sweet success! (How's that for neutral "political" commentary?!)

'tis the season to be tasting!

This weekend I fielded an oh-so timely and very relevant question: "if you don't taste wines for a living, how can you find new wine finds and otherwise expand your palate?" As it turns out, Labor Day is the unofficial start to the Trade's Tasting Season. What do I mean? Well, we in the trade have the opportunity to attend numerous industry-only wine tastings. These tastings are organized to 'show' fine wine vendors and restaurateurs the latest vintage releases from around the world - baring in mind that those offerings from the Southern Hemisphere operate on a Spring release schedule, so it is likely those wines have been available for several months. How does this impact you, the consumer?

Many fine wine shops use these trade shows to discover new wines to bring to you. Think of it this way: we spit, so you don't have to! And - even better - while these new wines usually end up on the shelves beginning this month, it is also very common for wine shops to offer their customers an opportunity to sample new wares at Fall Grand Tasting events. These are not only free to attend, but significant discounts are always on offer, particularly if you buy in bulk (half a case, a case, or more, of wine). Stocking up for the holidays or your general fall/winter drinking pleasure has never been such fun.

QUICK TIP: Get to the event early to be able to taste all the wines you care to!

How do you find out about these Grand Tastings? If you don't have a favorite local shop just yet, find out which Fine Wine shops are in your area and get on each of their e-mail lists to learn about tasting opportunities.  (This will also serve as an opportunity for you to find out which shop might best suit your needs.) The best shops often will have weekly tasting opportunities (of much smaller scale) that are worth your while, too.

Another recommendation for finding new wines is to subscribe to numerous wine blogs. Using an RSS reader program like Google Reader is a great way to organize your blogs, more quickly find out what's new and otherwise search for specific items - like which Syrah might be winning the Every Day Joe taste test, rather than the ones offered by Wine Spectator and the like. It's true different parts of the country - and certainly the world - have access to different wines, but finding out what strikes another wine afficionado's fancy is a great step in learning about wine and building a relationship with your local shop (which you'll have to turn to to investigate availability and pricing, particularly if your state doesn't permit interstate internet sales.)

If you're in the Boston area, which Grand Wine Tasting events do you know are upcoming for the public?

wine-related funding news (part II)

Just one week ago I was frustrated and reported on the lack of federal and other wine-related research funding available. I realized shortly thereafter perhaps, in my urgency to get back on the blogging bandwagon,  I was being a bit too hard on the Powers That Be - or at least was likely looking at the funding issue with too narrow a lens, not my usual M.O., so apologies to all. This week I've continued to get caught up on wine world news/gossip from while I was away as well as anything that might be more late-breaking. (For example, I'm now widely read on the Wine Spectator "scam"/"scandal" that broke at the end of August.) I was delighted to discover another, more positive news article about the Who's Who in wineries who were awarded USDA (US Department of Agriculture) Rural Development Grants, specifically via their Business and Cooperatives Value-Added Producer Grants (VAPG) program.

elk-run-winery-and-usda-grant-recipient

These funds are no joke. In my previous life I had the good fortune of working with rural communities across the country - and help them to go after and receive other USDA grant monies to improve economic development opportunities in their communities. I know too well how hard it is to a) put together a proposal given strict USDA guidelines and regulations and b) how stiff the competition is for these limited funds. For this particular round of funding nearly $20 Million was on the table, allowing 144 businesses in 37 states and Puerto Rico to benefit. Grants ranged widely, I'm sure depending on the scope and size of the project, from $2,500 to $300,000.

According to the USDA VAGP website, Value-Added Producer Grants may be used for feasibility studies or business plans, working capital for marketing value-added agricultural products and for farm-based renewable energy projects. Eligible applicants include independent producers, farmer and rancher cooperatives, and agricultural producer groups.

Congratulations to the independent wineries in Iowa and Maryland (and perhaps elsewhere?) that received awards this year! We look forward to seeing the fruits of your rewards.

(If you are a winery and would like additional information about this and other grants available, contact the folks at Wine America.)

Do you know of other valuable funding opportunities for wine industry professionals and the like?