Spring wines. A plausible paradox in New England?

Seasons certainly dictate quite a bit in our daily lives. We eat by them. We shop by them. We dress by them. We play/watch sports by them. But I find spring is the most perplexing time here in New England. We are SO eager for a break from the cold it can never come soon enough; and it usually takes its sweet time and hits us with at least one major snow storm well beyond our tolerance level for seeing any white stuff coming down - again. But we do get some terrific, warm(ish) days, too. I'd like to think I'm not a seasonal wine drinker. I drink white, red, pink and sparkling all year long. But on a hot summer day, I usually prefer something crisp, light and refreshing. On a cold winter's night after shoveling, I want a glass of Port. You get the idea. The temperature outside certainly plays a role in my decision-making. It helps narrow the playing field even.

So now that we're officially in springtime when the mercury is in constant flux, what are we to do? Pop on over to WickedLocal today to see what Dan Lech, Wine Manager at Ball Square Fine Wines had to say when I put the very same question to him!

Does the climate you live in impact your wine drinking habits?  Which wines do you enjoy this time of year?

Wines with Style

Ever been wary of a "Wines by the Glass" list? Been dubious the wines were opened two days prior to your debut at the bar? Or better yet, ever been overwhelmed by a list that's a real list, offering an ample array of wines you've never heard of?  The bars/restaurants that take their glass pours seriously are a rare and wonderful breed. The trick is navigating their list with style and grace. Not always an easy task! The Achilles Project/Persephone here in Beantown offers more than 20 different wines by the glass. To me, this is the first indicator they are serious about wine. The second indicator is that a good number of the wines on their list are "nerdy" (read: boutique offerings you don't see everyday). Like the boutique shop they run up front, they are focused on being fashion-forward, offering something new for folks to try. And because they are serious about glass pours, they also tend to be on the lookout for any wine that is past its prime, giving customers a greater opportunity to enjoy a "fresh" experience.  Sign me up!

Today I thought it would be fun to go through their "Wine By The Glass" list and pick out a handful of grapes that might cause a customer or two to scratch their head - when really they should be doing a little jig and embracing the list's fabulous uniqueness. Buckle your seat belt!

Lambrusco: This red wine varietal from Emilia Romagna, Italy is something else... Lightly sparkling (frizzante, as the Italians like to say), this wine offers smart red berry fruit flavors, often with just a touch of sweetness eminating from the ripe grapes they pick for this elixir. Think antipasto or anything with a touch of saltiness or lightly fried (calamari anyone?) as a perfect pairing. Or sip it on it's own! It's a real charmer.

Assyrtiko/Asirtiko: This white grape varietal may have different spellings, but to me they say the same thing: crisp, citrus deliciousness. The closest "mainstream" varietal I can reference for new Assyritko drinkers would be Sauvignon Blanc. But Assyrtiko brings additional minerality and even a hint of smoke to the table. This is a probably one of the most well respected varietals in Greece, with its real home in Santorini. Unique, bright goodness in your glass.

Scheurebe: This is one of Germany's best known hybrid varietals, yet it is still somewhat of an orphan.... DNA tests prove that this grape's dad is Riesling, but Mom is still unknown (though previously thought to be Sylvaner). Gotta love a freak! This wine typically offers tremendous floral aromatics and a touch of residual sugar (RS).  Tasting the wine out on the town can be a bit of a gamble, but your bartender should be able to guide you on just how sweet it is (though often enough you'll find they err on the drier side). Very much worth the experimentation, I've found. Often a great match for slightly spicy Asian dishes.

As for the Reds on their list, well.... some of these may be better paired with food than as a "cocktail wine" but it is certainly not everyday you see Austria's own delicious and lightly refreshing test-tube varietal Zweigelt on the roster, let alone a Mencia or a even a Monastrell (the Spanish name for the grape Mouvedre, which is better recognized in French wines). Nero d'Avola is up and coming, thought to be a pseudo Syrah with additional notes of currants, clove and vanilla; I find them more often distinct in their own right and offering far less oomph than Syrah can. But they are often just the thing to scratch the itch at a very reasonable price. Carignane can be wonderful, but I prefer to enjoy it when dinner's up, rather than at the bar with friends. I find it too dry, earthy and edgy without a bit of food on hand.

Any which way you look at it, the key thing is context. Do you want to sip something easy like a bit of Zweigelt while you chat with friends? Do you prefer something more familiar but still adventurous (like an Assyritko) to take the edge off a long day? Or do you crave a bit more body in your wine as you snack throughout the evening? If you're unsure you can either start with a bit of bubbly or white wine to get the ball rolling - and you can always ask your bartender for a recommendation to suit your mood!

Half the fun of wine is where you  are, what you're doing or who you are with. It's worth a touch of experiment; don't you agree?

Neighborhood charmer: wine find & more right next door

How many times have you driven or walked by a quaint little place in your neighborhood and never popped in? Sometimes the greatest gems are right in your backyard. And yet often enough we find ourselves wanting to get "out" and end up exploring elsewhere.  Funny creatures we are.... Well, I've learned my lesson. Pop on over to Wicked Local today to learn more about my adventures closer to home - and find out about a pretty great Pinot Noir to boot!

Wine musings for every palate

At last! It's Friday. After what feels like a longer week than usual (perhaps St. Patrick's Day had something to do with it?), this Friday it feels only natural to offer up a more random smattering of news headlines, wine musings and event updates than usual.  Much like wine can, I like to think I'm serving up a little something for everyone today. So here it is! Sting is making his own wine. Indeed. I've seen this bit of news posted by every possible media outlet. If the wine is as good as the coverage he's getting, we're in for a treat!

Merlot might be getting its second wind. I've been noticing the same thing myself, but this week Gaiter and Brecher conducted a hearty taste-off to see if the grape nearly sentenced to death by Miles is worthy of a reprieve. I was a little disappointed to see the duo reflect on mainstream offerings, but by the same token felt it was an interesting experiment - and certainly a testament to good Merlot being quite delicious. I for one prefer it 7 out of 10 times to Cabernet Sauvignon. Ask your local wine buyer what unique example they have on hand and give it a swirl!

If there is an opportunity to link wine with sports, you know I've scored court-side tickets, am sitting behind the dugout or rejoicing on the 50 yard line. Once again Grape Madness has developed a wine bracket in celebration of March Madness. Maybe you'll want to come up with your own version of this fun little game, but I can't resist passing it along. Thanks go out to Robert Dwyer for reminding me about this annual wine diversion.

Finally, for those of you around town looking for a fun night out in support of a great organization, WGBH is hosting a Wine Auction run by Skinner Auction House. The event will be a week from Saturday, on March 28th. Check it out!

Sip from the fountain of youth! Toast Madiran.

Have you discovered a few (more) gray hairs? Have you convinced yourself laugh lines are endearing or add character to your face? For a girl who decided years ago her freckles are really lucky spots (I do have the luck of the Irish, afterall), it makes sense I'm all about an optimistic outlook when it comes to (signs of) aging. Of course, I do my part to stay ahead of the curve: I eat healthfully, exercise regularly, take my vitamins, brush my teeth and drink Madiran wines. Wait... what was the last one? YES! I drink from the fountain of youth, aka Tannat-based wines from the Madiran, France. I had no idea the additional health benefits when I first started enjoying red wines from the Madiran. I mean, we've all read various studies about the benefits associated with an occasional glass of red wine. But Madiran wines are additionally beneficial. Tannat, the primary red grape in these wines, has a ridiculously high level of procyanidins. These bad boys have serious heart-healthy cache: they keep the cells in your arteries in the pink, supply your body with boucoups antioxidants and can even lower your blood pressure and keep cholesterol in check.

And no, drinking these wines is not like being forced to eat spinach when you were a kid (my nemesis). As its name connotes, Tannat grapes are high in tannin, producing structured wines capable of aging. But this grape also can bring intense fruit and lovely spices to the table, not to mention a welcome helping of earthiness. In the Madiran in particular, vintners work their magic to bring the latter component forward and soften the wine's edges by blending in a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or even Fer.

There are two Madiran red wines in particular that strike my fancy: 2004 Domaine Moureou Madiran; and 2003 Chateau Peyros Ville Vignes Madiran. Both are teeth-stainers, rustic, and filled with dark berry fruits (blackberries, blackcurrants, black cherries, etc.), plums and offer a touch of vanilla given up by the oak barrels they age in. The herbs and spices will tickle you pink as each sip reveals a new flavor. Because it is the offspring of wine innovator Patrick Ducourneau (father of micro-oxygenation), the Moureau has a lovely roudness to it. To my palate, the Peyros is destinct in its own right, offering up a unique, delicious and intriguing earthy/stoney minerality. Both are their own beast, ripe for hearty meats, stews or even a Buffalo burger hot off the grill. Try one, try both or seek out others. Just be sure to tell us what you think!

Fun Fact: The Madiran boasts one of the highest percentages of Centarians  in the world!

Pour Favor, a little wine & style in Beantown!

Since I've gotten more and more passionate about wine I've become more acutely aware how much everyday experiences are impacted by the bigger picture, the larger context at play. With wine I find it's not just about the juice, but what you are eating while drinking it, if you are celebrating a special occasion with a great group, or if you just want to unwind on your porch after a long week. This year I've made a resolution to make the most of every experience I can and to stay ahead of the economic fray; I'm committed to maximizing every opportunity. This spring I'm orchestrating a bit of fun not only for me and fellow wine lovers, but also for those who are ready to bust out their spring spirit donning a piece or two of this year's finest fashions....

Jump on over to WickedLocal today to learn more about a Wine & Style event I'm co-hosting with The Stylish Eye next week. Come on... you know you're ready to put a little spring in your step! Join us!

EU may meddle with Rose wines...

Surely my regular readers would agree I am not strictly a "purist" when it comes to wine innovation - whether it is using screwcaps or applying other modern winemaking techniques if/when it is warranted.  My jaw dropped, however, when I read an article this week detailing the EU's desire to allow members to mix red and white wines to create rose (apologies for the lack of accent on the "e" throughout this post). Rose is a tremendously delicious dry wine which we Americans (and others globally) have more or less just "discovered". Sales have been booming for the last several years. Finally the myth of rose tasting sweet like your Grand/Mother's white Zin(fandel) has been revealed! Meanwhile, consumers are going bonkers as they discover how many different styles there are; there is something for everyone and every dish.

Provence, France is arguably the rose capital of the world. Whenever I think of sitting on the shores of the Mediterranean at a little cafe, I transport myself to Provence - and I am sipping rose. The folks there have worked particularly hard over the years to debunk the myth of cotton-candy sweet pink, plonk wines and created more awareness and appreciation for these delightful wines. In my mind at least, I think of it as a local effort to give these wines the international appreciation (or distinction?) of say, Champagne.

If the EU allows a broader definition of rose such that red and white wines are mixed rather than applying the traditional method of pressing the juice from red grapes, I fear the 'cheapening' of this lovely libation. Provencial rose (and other areas that use this traditional, sanctioned technique) will lose their prestige as the wines lose their vibrancy. And so today my question is:

For what real benefit is the EU doing this? Where is the market research that backs up this move?

wine exploration: Bierzo and Mencia

Were you nerdy about wine in 2006? If so, you probably read a few articles about Bierzo, or the indigenous grape varietal they cultivate there (Mencia). Maybe you even tasted it. (It was considered "up and coming" at the time - and perhaps it still is, though I've only ever tasted a handful of Bierzo/Mencia wines since.) I became a fan of Mencia back then, having sampled a wine from Bierzo at  my shop's annual Fall Grand Wine Tasting event. I ended up with half a case of Dominio de Tares Baltos.  Since then I've fallen off the Bierzo wagon.  I was simply ready for new adventures once I finished my 6 bottles.

But as my co-worker and I continue to reevaluate and revisit the 1200 or so facings we have on our shelves, I found the Baltos again and decided to give it a whirl once more.

Bierzo is a fairly small wine-producing region located in the Northwest of Spain, quite close to Portugal. After the phylloxera epidemic killed most of the vines in the late 19th Century, economic crisis made it additionally difficult for Spanish winemaking to bounce back. But when they did in Bierzo, locals stayed true to their roots (no pun intended) and grafted Mencia vines, the dominant, native red grape varietal there. Bierzo became its own Denominacion de Origin in 1989. By then they were producing wines using more modern techniques to celebrate the best of their local varietals.

I have to admit, I was a bit disappointed when I retasted the Baltos. I was hoping for a wine with a bit of lift, as we like to say, something with red fruit flavors, a touch of earth and something... unique, I suppose. I remembered the Baltos as being distinctly versatile, pairing with a variety of foods and satisfying many people's taste buds. What I found was aromas of brett, or a barnyard essence with a touch more "funk" than simply walking into a real barn (a smell I actually cherish  in a wine). Brett isn't a fault, per se (though it is controversial), but I was hoping for violets, black raspberries and sweet plums. The palate delivered a touch of black plum fruit, but its leather earthiness dominated. A gentle bite of licorice filled the back palette. The wine wasn't bad, but it wasn't doing it for me either.

Perhaps it was palette fatigue at the end of a long day tasting and evaluating 75 or so wines for the shop, but the bottom line is, I was underwhelmed.

As I discussed at the outset, Bierzo was considered an up-and-coming region just a few years ago. I write about this 'designation' often enough. The thing is, Mencia/Bierzo doesn't seem to have taken off - at least not here in Greater Boston. Frankly, I've tasted very little Mencia offerings. I'm not in a position to judge them as a whole one way or the other. But I am curious:

How many of you are familiar with the Mencia grape and what is your experience with these wines?

Mixing it up: Apple ice wine

I'm always enamored with folks who truly enjoy their work - ever happy to be challenged while doing what they love. It's how I got into wine, to be honest. And it seems this is often the case in this line of work.

Pop on over to WickedLocal today to meet the Holtzman's of Harvard, Ma. They're making their own nectar of the gods (ice wine) using the hottest commodity in their hood... apples!

Out with the old in with the new? What about the wine?!

Image c/o The Gowanus Lounge

I think we've all had a burst of reality thrown our way recently when we discovered one of our favorite ___ locations has a "closed until further notice" sign displayed in the front door.  Yuck. Certainly we're in a period where the cream will rise to the top, but sometimes your local fav isn't every body elses - or else they knew how to dish out a fabulous meal, but they weren't running the numbers properly. You get the idea. At the same time, I can think of 3 new bars/restaurants that have just opened, and which I've heard really good things about (within 3 miles of my digs, no less). Out with the old, in with the new? I hope not. But I'll take a few new places that will help keeps things fresh.

Meanwhile, many young adults are scooping up new homes. They are getting great buys on properties that were completely out of the realm of possibility just a few years ago. Other folks looking to get a new business off the ground may have a new opportunity to do so. Many I know in the trade for example, are now biding their time, waiting to set up their kitchens in prime spaces as they become available.

This week I read a really interesting (and well-written) article about a different kind of real estate, business and demographic phenomenon: California wineries for sale. As many winemakers/owners hit retirement age, they have no succession strategy in place. In some cases offspring want no part of the wine biz; in others there are no offspring to be had (45%!). Whichever the case, owners haven't "groomed" someone else to take over. What happens? Big companies swoop in and snag the property, and often enough, the brand itself. But what about the wine?!

Journalist Beppi Crosariol at Globe and Mail described the implications of this scenario, writing "the shift could usher in a new era of big-business control that will transform an industry known mainly for individualistic, craft wines into an ocean of McCabernets." Yikes! Who wants that?

Apparently not everyone. Another article I stumbled on cheered the little guys; small Santa Clara Valley wineries are starting to hit their stride - recently taking home several national prizes for their efforts and gaining important publicity as a result.

Hopefully there will be some happy balance in the months or years ahead. All in all though, these articles reaffirm my belief that tasting is believing. Some of your old favorites might not have the same juice, if you will, moving forward; and maybe that's ok, if you're willing to keep exploring and find other hidden gems.

Do you think we'll start hearing more about winery properties changing hands in Europe? Or does a deeper history, family tradition or even estate tax law prevent some of this?