Smell the flowers - and some wine! May wine events

Here in New England, May 1st can only mean one thing (in the wine world).... The Nantucket Wine Festival is just around the corner! The festivities officially kick off on May 13th, but most will descend on downtown Nantucket over the weekend (May 16-17) for one of the most well regarded food and wine events on the eastern seaboard.  If I had my druthers, I would arrive early to enjoy at least one of the various lunch seminars happening at some of the finest restaurants Nantucket has to offer, Friday May 15. Isn't it always a (rare) pleasure to enjoy a meal with tremendous wine and its maker in a more intimate setting? If you haven't gotten your tickets yet, be sure to get on the bandwagon quickly. Simply take your long Memorial Day weekend a bit early!

*       *      *      *       *

If you can't swing the Nantucket event or are looking for a few ways to celebrate spring this weekend in/around Boston, two other events are on tap:

Tonight, May 1, the MSPCA Nevill's Farm in Methuen is the beneficiary of a bit of a wine & art soiree. Head to the Essex Art Center in Lawrence at 6pm and enjoy 3 hours of mingling, tasting and snacking! 50 wines will be on offer. Hubby not interested in the vino (from 4 continents, no less!)? How about craft beers from some of the nation's smallest breweries? Appetizers and the White Street Band will satiate you otherwise, too. Not to mention some great art... (Tickets $20 in advance; $25 at the door. See MSPCA link above.)

If you can't mobilize tonight, how about a trip to Belmont tomorrow, May 2? Avoid the threat of spring showers and hang out at Vintages from 2 - 6 pm as they celebrate their 1 year anniversary. The folks from Ideal, VIAS and Rosenthal will be offering a selection of their wares for your tasting pleasure. And, I've heard a rumor that Il Casale (recall, Dante Restaurant's latest undertaking) will be offering a selection of items from its new menu, too.  No tickets required. It's a free-bee!

What other wine events are on your radar this May?

Red wine when summer comes early

We've had a lovely bender of 80 degree temps here in Beantown. Love it. My soul is being nourished with Vitamin D, my grill is getting some much needed TLC, and I have an "excuse" to drink red wines even when it is warm out. This week I brought home a bottle of one of my all time favorite wines: 2006 Mas du Bouquet Vacqueras by Vignerons de Caractere.  Yes, I love a good Cote du Rhone. But the Vacqueras is my true happy place in that region. Almost 20 years ago Vacqueras got a little extra "credit" for the wines it produces, largely red wines made of the famous "GSM" trifecta: Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre; Vacqueras became one of (now) five AOCs in the Cote du Rhone. (By way of reference, there are over 100 villages within the CDR that do not have a special designation, or AOC status.)

Law mandates Vacqueras reds have at least 50% Grenache and at least 20% of either Syrah or Mouvedre. From there winemakers can blend in any one of the other 10 varietals permitted in the CDR, though you'll often discover Cinsault if a fourth grape is included in a particular red. Vacqueras is special because of its glacial soils as well as the hot, dry climate that is perfect for producing dense, structured, concentrated wines. And yet I find Vacqueras offerings tend to be a bit more approachable than its Gigondas or Chateneuf du Pape counterparts. (Ok, fine, you're working your way up the Wow Factor charts in "magical" qualities with those other two AOCs, but you also pay a few extra dollars accordingly.)

Vacqueras wines can certainly indulge your wild side or transport you to the great outdoors - they can offer tremendous earthy, herbaceous, rustic qualities, with trademark spice hitting a nice note on the finish. But more often I find those elements are more subtle, evolving behind the bigger fruit fiddles playing the main tune. These reds are big and bold - but soft and lush, too. The paradox enthralls my taste buds - AND more to the point, indulges my need to grill, grill, grill!

The Mas du Bouquet is a favorite of mine because of its tremendous consistency despite being the product of a co-op of winemakers. I think its consistency is actually an expression of place: the Manganelli Family has owned their vineyards for 100 years and many of the vines are quite old. That kind of history coupled with a dedication to sustainable, environmentally-friendly practices must set a certain tone and yield (no pun intended) particularly good fruit. That gives any winemaker a decent head start.

My tasting notes, you now demand? Fine, fine... When it is first opened, spices will literally tickle your nose distracting you from garnering more. But within as little as 20 minutes, its violet and lavender florals emerge, followed by aromas of black raspberries and plums. These fruits are juicy on the palate, with a touch of blackberry coming to fruition as well. A hint of leather, a hint of spice - and all is naughty and nice! The mouthfeel is what sends me to the moon, though - lush and supple with only gentle tannins becoming even softer as the wine continues to open. Lip-smacking goodness. Perfect with game, burgers, lamb - or even an earthy risotto dish, I imagine!

Which Vacqueras do you most enjoy? Or will you beginning your travels with the Mas du Bouquet?

The skinny on ecofriendly wines: Part one, sustainability

It's only natural what with Earth Day last week eco-friendly wines are on the brain. Eco-friendly, what? You heard me! Ecofriendly WINES. It's a new-ish buzz word encompassing the many (confusing) categories of wine including biodynamic, organic and sustainable wines, among others. We'll be tackling these various terms and attempting to break them down into bite size pieces on Wicked Local. Today we're starting with "sustainable" wines. Check out what Tim Thornhill and his crew are doing at Mendocino Wine Co. to reduce their carbon footprint, churn out fabulous wines and grow their business all the while. Cool stuff.

What's your knowledge of "sustainable" wines? Is it something that's important to you?

A smattering of wine news - and an event!

Let's start today's post by clarifying that, despite significant fire damage to their new tasting facility at Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, no one was hurt and no wine was compromised. I'm eager to hear more reports on how the fire was started, but in the meantime, the infamous Finger Lakes producer is still moving and grooving, with relatively little interruption to day-to-day activities; life goes on. Moving right along, I was happy to stumble on a pretty great article about the regional typicity of California Pinot Noir - and a move by some to take into consideration how well a wine shows it's true "roots" when it comes to wine scoring. The folks at Appellation America are introducing a Best of Appellation program. Click on the link to read more about the nuances you might hope to find in domestic Pinot, and how Appellation America is encouraging more focus on "terroir" (if I may be so bold as to use that term...) here in the US.

Then, consider this Wine Spectator article about Oregon's new statewide certification for sustainable wines a teaser for my article in Wicked Local, due out Monday!

And last, but certainly not least, if you are looking for a great way to celebrate the warmer temps we'll be enjoying this Sunday, sign up for the House of Blues Gospel Brunch. Divas Uncorked are at it again!

Any other special wine events you plan to attend in the coming week? Share the love so we can all raise a glass!

the world's most versatile white wine? Albarino uncorked.

If you think of Spain's geography as the shape of a bull's head, you realize it doesn't have much of a western coast. Portugal actually comprises much of that area - with only the tippy-top of Spain's left "bull horn" having ocean boundaries. It is in this northwestern area, Galicia - and perhaps more notably, the D.O. Rias Biaxas (said Ree-as Byay-shas) - where arguably the most versatile white wine is created: Albarino. With its northern location and proximity to the sea, it won't surprise you to learn Albarino has its work cut out for itself to avoid rot and ripen fully. (Or, well, maybe the high, spread out trellising by the vineyard managers has something to do with it, since the wind can more easily pass through the vines and help dry things out....) Whether natural selection is at play or not, Albarino fortunately has developed very thick skins - which impart the strong, beautifully floral aromas you should associate with this particular vino.

Actually, Albarino is often likened to two other grapes we've discussed now and again: Riesling and Viognier. It is associated with Riesling for its mineral characteristics and Viognier for the stone fruit and floral aromas that often float from the glass. It also has very low alcohol and high acidity. These factors make Albarino so versatile. (Low alcohol allows it to pair well with spicy dishes too, for example; the heat of the alcohol does not fuel the flames of spicy cuisine while the residual touch of glycerin adds a robustness that complements richer foods' texture. ) And it's not just that Albarino's innate characteristics make it a good match for these "trickier," spicy foods! The wine is also enhanced by the flavors found in these dishes: it tastes even more distinct than when it flies solo!

Albarino is a go-to wine for me particularly around holiday meals. It is so refreshing, has that extra bit of roundness to it texturally, complements so many dishes and is one even red wine drinkers can appreciate. With Easter a few weeks back, I brough home a bottle thinking I would save it for our feast. It never made it that far.... The Vinum Terrae's Agnus Dei Albarino offered such a lovely bouquet of peaches and apricots, it was love reignited. It delivered the same apricot-peachy goodness on the palate and was further enhanced by a serious squeeze of lemon citrus "juice" and a bit of wet-slate minerality. With its low alcohol, it quenched my thirst as I prepared the meal.

There are several Albarino's on the market, probably the most widely distributed being the Martin Codax. Have you enjoyed this varietal before? Which was the offering you tasted?

Oysters and wine innovation on the Charles river

Got $1? Get an oyster. Got $12? Get twelve oysters. There are a few places in and around town with a $1 oyster special at least one day a week. But only one place has oysters, a fabulous wine and cocktail list, synergy and ridiculously intelligent, innovative staff: Dante Restaurant in Cambridge, MA. Head on over to Wicked Local today to get the inside scoop on the finer nuances of what makes Dante so special. Then report back here:

Have you had the pleasure of sitting barside with Stephen or Chas at Dante?

Funny (and not so funny) Wine News: Italy, France and the U.S.

You know you're having a good morning of wine reading if you are both laughing and crying.... Wiping the cobwebs from my eyes yesterday morning, I found myself clicking on the link to a Decanter article about Italy's new "Drink-Driving" campaign. I read the brief article three times. It just didn't make good common sense! Allegrini is reportedly giving away a bottle of Palazzo della Torre to anyone who manages to drive sober after a night out. (How they are enforcing this, who knows, but....) Decanter stated this "Drink-Driving" campaign was not only to increase awareness about alcohol-related driving deaths but also to revitalize the slackening restaurant business. Great idea. Except isn't "Drink Driving" a bit of an oxymoron? Is the idea you are driving home with your free, uncorked bottle? No, that can't be it....

I had the great pleasure of meeting Marilisa Allegrini over lunch about a year and a half ago. She came to Boston to show her family's Veneto wares. They are lovely. She is lovely. It turns out she didn't initially commit to the family wine business, pursuing her own path first. I found her incredibly dynamic and market savvy. So I'm not surprised that Allegrini is collaborating on such a campaign. It just doesn't seem like Marilisa to get behind an idea called "Drink Driving".  And then it hit me.  A translation error must be at play! It isn't a "drink driving" campaign; it's a "drUnk driving" campaign. Yes, I'm laughing at myself too - but apparently I'm not the only one who didn't apply their own rational mind to the equation. If you read the comments below the article, you can see what I mean for yourself. I blame a busy week and a general lack of sleep... Too funny, too interesting not to share.

In other wine news, I was sad to see Duval-Leroy is giving aluminum Champagne stoppers a go. Champagne is sacred. I believe in cork when it comes to that one. Read for yourself, here.

Finally, if you're in California, Michigan or Atlanta, perhaps you've had the chance to taste wine out of a tap. If you're in New York City, perhaps you've heard it might be coming. The rest of us, well, we'll see when it all might come to fruition. Cool idea though. Check it out!

How do you feel about the alumunium stopper? What about wine on tap?

another German wine find!

With Dornfelder now under our belts and the trees about to budbreak, what could be more natural than musing a bit on a somewhat random,  German, hybrid, white varietal? Scheurebe! It's fun to say (shoe-ray-bay) and even more fun to drink! A couple of weeks ago I was inspired to bring home a bottle of the 2007 Forster Schnepfenflug A.D. WSTR Scheurebe Kabinett. That night I simply wanted a wallet-friendly pick-me-up wine.  I wasn't even having anything particularly exciting for dinner - I just wanted a little something to sip while I cooked and then work well enough with whatever culinary creation I managed.  Scheurebe is fairly versatile. It has a bit of weight to it (perfect for Spring), offers honey aromas, ripe peach and citrus flavors and a touch of spiced minerality. The Forster's acidity is not overwhelming, making it a solid cocktail wine: no food is required to really enjoy it.

Based on the flavor profile above, you probably won't be shocked to learn Scheurebe is a German hybrid varietal with Riesling thought to be one of the parent grapes. Often enough these wines have a touch of sweetness to them, too. The Forster, clocking in at relatively low 10.5% alcohol, certainly falls into the off-dry category.  (Unlike it's Riesling parent, Scheurebe isn't known for high acidity, as mentioned above. This makes me wonder who its other parent is! As yet, it's not clear who's the daddy, as Silvaner has been recently ruled out.)

But best of all, because Scheurebe is a hardier grape than Riesling, it has staying power in the vineyard. It is resistant to the colder elements, commands decent yields, and can grow in less desireable areas. This means you can get the wine for less. Consider it "recession proof"!

Have you tried Scheurebe? What was your impression?

April's "Wicked Wines" uncorked!

Of course we're all trying to forget about snow what with Spring springing. But I really think wine is like a snowflake. No two bottles (even of the same wine) are alike! Wine is one of the few things constantly pushing me to explore something new - because I never know what amazing gem I might encounter once the bottle is uncorked.

Today I am thrilled to debut a new series here at Pour Favor: Wicked Wines! Every second Monday of the month, pop on over to Wicked Local to see what treasures I've found - and hope you will also give a sniff, swirl and sip for yourself!

Are you familiar with any of the wines I feature this month? What's your April "Wicked Wine" find?

Vintage Port declared in 2007

Yeah, yeah, it may be sort of, kind of getting warmer out there here in New England. But it is still rainy, damp, brisk and windy, too.  It is way too early to forget about the wonderful world of Port! This week, in fact, just in case dreams of dry rose, picnics with bubbly, or vibrant whites are on the brain, the folks in Portugal are bringing us back to reality. For the first time in four vintages, major Port houses throughout the Duoro have declared 2007 a Vintage year for Port! What does this mean? Well, think of Vintage Port as the top of the totem pole. It is only made in great years, made from the best grapes on offer; there also has to be ample fruit available to meet the demand. No one is allowed to get ahead of themselves either, even if all of the conditions in a given year seem to indicate a Vintage year is inevitable. The Powers That Be have to wait one full year after the vintage year to assess the wines and then declare the Vintage.

Of course... the trick about Vintage Port is that you have to "earn it" to really enjoy it. The tannins are so intense it takes decades for the wine to come into its own. If you open a bottle of Vintage Port after, say, 10 years, your wine will still have very hearty tannin, enough such that you can drink it over several days. On the other hand, if you are a patient soul and wait 40-50 years to drink your Port, it should be enjoyed immediately; the wine has achieved maturity and will not be able to hold up to excessive oxygen exposure.

So if 2007 is an important year for you personally, keep an eye out for these Vintage Ports when they come to market in another few years. Then cellar it for a "special" occassion sometime in the distant future.

Which Vintage Port have you enjoyed? How old was it when you opened it?