Good old fashioned, mezmerizing Wine writing (and more)

I tried to write a novel a few years ago. Unfortunately I discovered I don't have the patience to develop characters in that special way that sucks you in and devotes you to their trials and tribulations and celebrations as if they were your real-life friends. Any wine writer who can do that to me is Prime Rib, or perhaps more appropriately, a glass of truly tremendous Growers Champagne. I've had the uncommon pleasure of "drinking" my Growers Champagne, if you will, at the pen of two different writers, given two very different wine context in the last week and a half alone.

The first are the fabulous duo from the Wall Street Journal, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher. True, this is not the first time I have sung their praises. But usually I talk about their content, not their writing style. This week I read just the first few lines of their article and had to save it for later - like a much anticipated dessert. If you have not yet read their "Rails, Romance and Really Good Wine" article, you must. Romance, indeed. I aspire to such greatness.

The second is Deborah Haro, of the absolutely amazing Taberna de Haro of Brookline. If you want a good read, simply get your hands on her wine list. There are other truly savory things about Taberna de Haro, but I'll be getting to that in a future Wicked Local article. In the meantime, hussle over to Taberna to enjoy another tantalizing read (and meal!).

For those of you less interested in the romance of wine reading, but perhaps intrigued by broken hearts (or is that hearts rewarded? tough to say...) check out what Parisians have been up to to keep economically afloat. Bitter sweet, I suppose....

Which wine lists have you encountered that are simply a lovely read?

Chenin Blanc: the "other" blanc wine to know

Requests for Sauvignon Blanc recommendations have been coming pretty steadily as the temperatures have gotten warmer this spring. What I rarely hear a request for is Chenin Blanc. Sure, I get a request for Vouvray, a French village known for Chenin Blanc among those who "know", but Chenin seems more often overlooked by white wine seekers. Here's the 411 on this great grape: Recently I argued Albarino is the most versatile white wine; what readers found out was how terrifically versatile it is as a food wine. Chenin Blanc is perhaps the most versatile style of wine. It can be dry.  It can be sweet. And it can be still - or sparkling! Oh, the possibilities! It is also grown widely throughout the world, in the Loire Valley, France, South Africa and domestically in California.

The Loire Valley delivers my favorite Chenin Blancs. They have lovely stone fruits and citrus flavors - and a unique minerality I quite adore. But remember the French don't always label their wines by varietal. So if you see "Vouvray", "Savenniers," or often "Saumur" (where  Charadonnay is the other white grape permitted), grab a bottle! Better yet, head on in to your local shop and ask for a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc to give a swirl.

"Steen" is another name for Chenin Blanc you may find on a bottle of South African Chenin. These wines have more tropical fruit flavors and a distinct 'funk' you will either love or hate. (Note: "Funk" is a great, acceptable wine term that describes a special character in a wine. Funk can range from barnyard-like characteristics to wet wool, which is the one you're more likely to find in Chenin from South Africa. It's a love/hate thing, truly. Best to try it for yourself and see if you've been missing out on the South African Chenin fun.)

Chenin Blanc from California typically comes across the tasting table in the form of a blend, like 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. These blends are enticingly fuller bodied, and offer dramatic floral aromas. Not too shabby in their own right!

Either which way you slice it, Chenin Blanc pairs well with goat cheese, fish, grilled chicken or many vegetarian dishes. Heck - they are brilliant on their own, too! My favorite hosts always have a bottle at the ready because they are so versatile and guest-friendly. But I also often characterize them as "porch guzzlers" - where friends are entirely optional. Some things are too good to share!

Which Chenin Blanc offerings are your favorites? Any particular country that makes your heart beat a bit faster?

May's Wicked Wines Uncorked!

I can hardly believe it's already the second Monday in May - and time to unleash this month's Wicked Wines! These are some real treats to uncork through the ups and downs of the season change. Buying Tip: If you can't find the specific wines I suggest in your home market, consider the varietals (or blends) I've chosen and enlist your local wine buyer to make comparable recommendations.  These are some fun wines you won't want to miss!

wine news worth making headlines

Climate Change? Image thanks to: http://watersecretsblog.com/archives/2008/01/scientists_pred.html

We've been fleshing out the topic of eco-friendly wines over the last few weeks. One different but related topic we haven't quite gotten to yet is the impact of climate change on wine. Whether you are a "believer" in global warming or not, if you are a wine drinker you should be noticing some degree of change in the product you've come to know and love (no pun intended). For example, if you've been drinking Alsatian Pinot Gris for the last decade, you've probably noticed the wines are a bit fleshier and sweeter now than they were when you first tried them. That's because the fruit has been getting riper.... Everything I've been hearing from winemakers, viticulturists and wine scholars alike suggests historically cooler regions, like England, will become hotbeds for winemaking. (One winemaker I met this week even joked they are considering purchasing land in Finland...) Ok, so maybe this move isn't immediate, but it is on the radar of producers.

Wouldn't you know, I saw in Decanter just yesterday  "London's first commercial vineyard since medieval times has been planted." Capel Manor Horticultural College is the' man behind the curtain' - and they are even hoping by 2012 they might have a little vino to boast. Go figure.

In domestic news, have you seen Murphy-Goode is pulling out the stops on their next marketing endeavors? If you are a wine nerd and super savvy in the arena of social media, this is your big opportunity to beat the recession. They have a new opening:  a 6 month marketing gig will land you $60K, plus perks.

Do you think I should apply for the Murphy-Goode gig - or are you their next hire?

H1N1... Wines?

Ok. Bad joke. (I can't take full credit as one of my best friends, fellow foodie and wine lover actually fed it to me.) What can I say? Sometimes a little levity is needed!And it was Cinco de Mayo yesterday.... Mexico is actually the oldest wine producing country in the New World. Who knew? (Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson, apparently. There are two full columns dedicated to Mexico in their most recent edition of the World Atlas of Wine.) I was intrigued - but not surprised - to learn the Spaniards got the ball rolling in the 1500s; but there was a significant interruption in 1699 when "the King of Spain banned new vineyards in Mexico, fearing competition to Spain's wine industry, thus halting the development of a wine culture in Mexico for three centuries." Egad! 3 C's? No wonder no one really knows about Mexican wine - and the country is better known for tequila and refreshing cerveza.

It wasn't until the 18th Century that vines started to get a little local love. Grenache, Carignan and even Pedro Ximenez (used in the production of a yummy, rich Sherry) varietals landed on the scene. Somehow, someway, "they" also figured out that Baja, Mexico was quintessential vine country, er... wine country. Only 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, Baja has a terrific climate and mineral-rich soil ideal for viticulture. Today innovation seems to be setting in - albeit slowly.

If you caught the recent "Diary of a Foodie" episode on PBS, a work of Gourmet magazine, none of this is news to you. Rather, Casa de Piedra Winery is synonymous with innovative, tasty Mexican vino.  Piedra plants a range of "uncommon" Mexican varietals and their philosophy is to keep yields small while employing a "simple technique". The episode reports they plant Grenache and Mission grapes for the reds, and Palomino for the whites. Further research on their website suggests their repertoire of varietals is much greater: Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are additional red varietals planted; Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are some of the whites grown. That's certainly a diverse lot! I applaud their willingness to experiment.

Unfortunately I've never had the (dis?)pleasure of sipping on a Mexican wine offering. But by Robinson's account, while "Mexican tastes and drinking habits have long lagged behind the increasingly exciting achievements of Mexico's modern vineyards and wineries", they are worth checking out.

Are Mexican wines even available in your market? Have you had a chance to sample them?

The skinny on ecofriendly wines. Part two: organics

The market for organic produce has really picked up steam in the last few years. Consumers looking for organic wines, however, are often confused by what the labels really mean - and the deal with sulfites, for that matter. Yeah, it's true, there are different laws and standards depending which country is producing the wine. But at the end of the day you can break things down pretty simply.  Head over to Wicked Local today to get the here's what and how of it all!

Do you seek out organic wines? What is your impression of them on the whole?

Smell the flowers - and some wine! May wine events

Here in New England, May 1st can only mean one thing (in the wine world).... The Nantucket Wine Festival is just around the corner! The festivities officially kick off on May 13th, but most will descend on downtown Nantucket over the weekend (May 16-17) for one of the most well regarded food and wine events on the eastern seaboard.  If I had my druthers, I would arrive early to enjoy at least one of the various lunch seminars happening at some of the finest restaurants Nantucket has to offer, Friday May 15. Isn't it always a (rare) pleasure to enjoy a meal with tremendous wine and its maker in a more intimate setting? If you haven't gotten your tickets yet, be sure to get on the bandwagon quickly. Simply take your long Memorial Day weekend a bit early!

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If you can't swing the Nantucket event or are looking for a few ways to celebrate spring this weekend in/around Boston, two other events are on tap:

Tonight, May 1, the MSPCA Nevill's Farm in Methuen is the beneficiary of a bit of a wine & art soiree. Head to the Essex Art Center in Lawrence at 6pm and enjoy 3 hours of mingling, tasting and snacking! 50 wines will be on offer. Hubby not interested in the vino (from 4 continents, no less!)? How about craft beers from some of the nation's smallest breweries? Appetizers and the White Street Band will satiate you otherwise, too. Not to mention some great art... (Tickets $20 in advance; $25 at the door. See MSPCA link above.)

If you can't mobilize tonight, how about a trip to Belmont tomorrow, May 2? Avoid the threat of spring showers and hang out at Vintages from 2 - 6 pm as they celebrate their 1 year anniversary. The folks from Ideal, VIAS and Rosenthal will be offering a selection of their wares for your tasting pleasure. And, I've heard a rumor that Il Casale (recall, Dante Restaurant's latest undertaking) will be offering a selection of items from its new menu, too.  No tickets required. It's a free-bee!

What other wine events are on your radar this May?

Red wine when summer comes early

We've had a lovely bender of 80 degree temps here in Beantown. Love it. My soul is being nourished with Vitamin D, my grill is getting some much needed TLC, and I have an "excuse" to drink red wines even when it is warm out. This week I brought home a bottle of one of my all time favorite wines: 2006 Mas du Bouquet Vacqueras by Vignerons de Caractere.  Yes, I love a good Cote du Rhone. But the Vacqueras is my true happy place in that region. Almost 20 years ago Vacqueras got a little extra "credit" for the wines it produces, largely red wines made of the famous "GSM" trifecta: Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre; Vacqueras became one of (now) five AOCs in the Cote du Rhone. (By way of reference, there are over 100 villages within the CDR that do not have a special designation, or AOC status.)

Law mandates Vacqueras reds have at least 50% Grenache and at least 20% of either Syrah or Mouvedre. From there winemakers can blend in any one of the other 10 varietals permitted in the CDR, though you'll often discover Cinsault if a fourth grape is included in a particular red. Vacqueras is special because of its glacial soils as well as the hot, dry climate that is perfect for producing dense, structured, concentrated wines. And yet I find Vacqueras offerings tend to be a bit more approachable than its Gigondas or Chateneuf du Pape counterparts. (Ok, fine, you're working your way up the Wow Factor charts in "magical" qualities with those other two AOCs, but you also pay a few extra dollars accordingly.)

Vacqueras wines can certainly indulge your wild side or transport you to the great outdoors - they can offer tremendous earthy, herbaceous, rustic qualities, with trademark spice hitting a nice note on the finish. But more often I find those elements are more subtle, evolving behind the bigger fruit fiddles playing the main tune. These reds are big and bold - but soft and lush, too. The paradox enthralls my taste buds - AND more to the point, indulges my need to grill, grill, grill!

The Mas du Bouquet is a favorite of mine because of its tremendous consistency despite being the product of a co-op of winemakers. I think its consistency is actually an expression of place: the Manganelli Family has owned their vineyards for 100 years and many of the vines are quite old. That kind of history coupled with a dedication to sustainable, environmentally-friendly practices must set a certain tone and yield (no pun intended) particularly good fruit. That gives any winemaker a decent head start.

My tasting notes, you now demand? Fine, fine... When it is first opened, spices will literally tickle your nose distracting you from garnering more. But within as little as 20 minutes, its violet and lavender florals emerge, followed by aromas of black raspberries and plums. These fruits are juicy on the palate, with a touch of blackberry coming to fruition as well. A hint of leather, a hint of spice - and all is naughty and nice! The mouthfeel is what sends me to the moon, though - lush and supple with only gentle tannins becoming even softer as the wine continues to open. Lip-smacking goodness. Perfect with game, burgers, lamb - or even an earthy risotto dish, I imagine!

Which Vacqueras do you most enjoy? Or will you beginning your travels with the Mas du Bouquet?

The skinny on ecofriendly wines: Part one, sustainability

It's only natural what with Earth Day last week eco-friendly wines are on the brain. Eco-friendly, what? You heard me! Ecofriendly WINES. It's a new-ish buzz word encompassing the many (confusing) categories of wine including biodynamic, organic and sustainable wines, among others. We'll be tackling these various terms and attempting to break them down into bite size pieces on Wicked Local. Today we're starting with "sustainable" wines. Check out what Tim Thornhill and his crew are doing at Mendocino Wine Co. to reduce their carbon footprint, churn out fabulous wines and grow their business all the while. Cool stuff.

What's your knowledge of "sustainable" wines? Is it something that's important to you?

A smattering of wine news - and an event!

Let's start today's post by clarifying that, despite significant fire damage to their new tasting facility at Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine Cellars, no one was hurt and no wine was compromised. I'm eager to hear more reports on how the fire was started, but in the meantime, the infamous Finger Lakes producer is still moving and grooving, with relatively little interruption to day-to-day activities; life goes on. Moving right along, I was happy to stumble on a pretty great article about the regional typicity of California Pinot Noir - and a move by some to take into consideration how well a wine shows it's true "roots" when it comes to wine scoring. The folks at Appellation America are introducing a Best of Appellation program. Click on the link to read more about the nuances you might hope to find in domestic Pinot, and how Appellation America is encouraging more focus on "terroir" (if I may be so bold as to use that term...) here in the US.

Then, consider this Wine Spectator article about Oregon's new statewide certification for sustainable wines a teaser for my article in Wicked Local, due out Monday!

And last, but certainly not least, if you are looking for a great way to celebrate the warmer temps we'll be enjoying this Sunday, sign up for the House of Blues Gospel Brunch. Divas Uncorked are at it again!

Any other special wine events you plan to attend in the coming week? Share the love so we can all raise a glass!