back to Alto Adige - with glee!

I've never traveled to Italy for the purpose of wine tasting and so have yet to experience the Alto Adige region personally. Perhaps just through tasting wines from this region I believe it to be one of the most romantic places on earth. The area is uniquely situated between the North and the South, benefiting from the cool air of the Alps and the warm Mediterranean sun. Micro-climates and unique soil types abound throughout. It is a situation that is set up for greatness. A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of joining a few colleagues out to dinner at Upstairs on the Square. My direct colleague and I remember enjoying our respective meals, but really we found ourselves fixated on our wine experience thereafter. And so we did everything we are lucky to be empowered to do: we bought the wine we enjoyed so much and put it on our shelves.

Naturally, as diligent professionals, we hem and haw a bit before we bring in just about any wine. There are only a couple of  'slam dunks' that cross our path every month. And, in the case of our dinner wine,  we're talking about a selection that retails for $50.  This price point is an entirely different playing field. We have to be WOWed. And wowed we were! The Lageder "Krafuss" Pinot Noir is an exceptional wine, and one that I'm happy to fork over the bigger bucks for with some regularity - well, given the right company or occasion as wines of this caliber should be shared.

Last night I had a really good excuse to open Krafuss once again: my best friend's birthday. He had duck with a prune Port gastrique and I had scallops with black quinoa, prosciutto and a citrus salad.  Both worked quite well with the wine, in part because our respective meals complemented different notes in this delightfully complex wine.

Smooth and supple, it delivers a perfumed nose of roses, slightly smoked meats, and a mixture of sweet citrus, ripe cherry, cranberry and mascerated strawberry fruits - and a hint of dried ones as well. The palate translates directly, with a slight accent of orange rind and an underpinning of turned earth coming through as well. It was interesting to see how my meal with the savory prosciutto (smoked meats), citrus salad (orange rind) and black quinoa (turned earth) directed my attention to these notes particularly well in the wine while my friend experienced the dried fruits, including dates, apricots and prunes, in a more pronounced way (prune Port gastrique).

Once again Lageder's Krafuss delivered a true wine experience. It is a wine you keep coming back to, putting your nose in it, tasting it thoroughly as it continues to open and re-deliver happiness. It is one of those rare wines I have no problem pacing myself on, because the experience of it overtime, with food and without, continues to enrapture; I don't want to sacrifice one moment of it!

A few additional fun facts: Lageder has been up to such good for 175+ years. They are wholly committed to letting nature do the hard work, using modern techniques only if  they will further impress the flavor of the terroir and grapes in each of their offerings. And whatever your beliefs, this outstanding vin is also organic and biodynamic. It is part of the Tenutae Lageder line, which gathers fruit solely from their own estate.

rediscovering Italian wines

Now that it's February and I've done a decent job of depleting my in house wine collection, I'm back to buying them. And for whatever reason I can't quite explain, the last few weeks I've found myself bringing home more and more Italian red wines. While there are certainly many 'giving' Italian reds made ("giving" meaning they need very little time to open up as they are fruit forward and generally just kind of easy going) I realized I've inadvertently fallen prey to the over-simplified idea that all Italian red wines go best with pasta, hard cheese or red meats - three categories that I just don't consume through the normal course of things (allergies are to blame!). This perception is certainly perfectly accurate in its own right. Just as there are giving Italian reds, there are others that are less giving. These are much bigger, structured wines that really are most delightful when they are given ample time to open up (let the tannins soften, the fruit integrate with all the other lovely herbal and terciary flavors, etc.) AND when they have a hearty food match to work in tandem with the structure and flavor of the wine. Patience and some forethought about what's for dinner go a long, long way. A decanter never hurts either.

God love them, this month vendors in our network have been bringing both hidden gems and well-regarded, more elite styles of Italian reds by the Tasting Station for us to suss out. One of my new loves? Schiava.

I'm sure I've chatted about Elena Walch in prior posts as she's one of the most highly regarded female winemakers in the world. Her wines hail from the northern Alto Adige region of Italy. I have yet to taste one that isn't well made and delicious. Leave it to her to make and export a grape (Schiava) that almost never leaves the country! Her 2009 bottling of this grape (said Ski-ah-vah) is the only one I've ever tasted; it immediately won me over. My first tasting notes read: "wow! This is a red Burgundy wine lovers delight with an almost Pinot Noir-like levity and texture and a nice focus of ripe cherry and black fruit (boysenberry, blackberry). Love the feminity, florals and subtle Italian nuance."

It's fun to get away from the same old same and enjoy something somehow familiar but new, isn't it? And this one can pair with myriad things, from pork tenderloin topped with cranberry sauce or a mustard vinaigrette, roasted or fire-grilled eggplant and mushrooms with a balsamic glaze, even to tuna steak with a side of garlic roasted red potatoes. Manja!

Another January wine fridge winner

In my last post I mentioned that sometimes I 'gift' myself wine. Over Thanksgiving last year, this was one such occasion; I traveled for the holiday and knew I'd be spending time with a larger group with varying wine tastes and so I brought crowd-friendly wines I thought they would enjoy. For myself, I tucked away one of my favorite wines, the 2006 Kurt Angerer Pinot Noir, and anticipated opening it around the holiday with another friend who is just as enthused about it as I. Suffice to say, life got in the way and Kurt hung out in my wine fridge a little longer than I anticipated - I just pulled the cork last weekend.

This wine hails from the Kamptal region of Austria - a region that is challenged to produce exceptional red wines in any given year because the climate is so demanding. Vintage really matters. I've been sipping on Angerer's 2006 Pinot Noir for more than a year now and have enjoyed it all the while; but today I think it is tasting exceptionally well (though sadly, I fear not only that there may be no more left in the market but also that he did not produce another Pinot in 2007). This is a wine that is enjoyable out of the gates but truly benefits from decanting.  I took a quick taste upon opening it and then after three hours, I enthusiastically grabbed my glass and put my nose back to task.

The wine is so "pretty" I just kept breathing it in: roses, lavender and violets linger over fruit buoyed by aromas of smoked meats. These elements translate to the palate seamlessly, with a hint of mushroom and leather playing a note or two in addition. Its intense core of fruit really fleshes out when given time to aerate, delivering crushed cranberry and a whisper of dried cranberry fruit flavors, plus black raspberries and mascerated cherries, and a blink of tart, earthy rhubarb. Fine black pepper spice and a thread of savory charcuterie really come through on the long finish. An unfiltered wine, the texture is silky with oh-so fine tannins; the slight drying note makes the wine a better companion to food perhaps, but I find it did not at all detract from my enjoyment after the chicken marsala was long gone!

Yum.

Another way to cope with short-change wine month

Do you have wine in your cellar, wine fridge or rack that someone gave to you? Do you have wine in your cellar, wine fridge or rack that you've been aging for a while? Have you looked at those in a while, or are they still out of sight out of mind? While I use January as month to scoop up affordable finds, I also use it as a month to do wine 'housekeeping'.  This strategy allows me to accomplish a few key things: 1)  'rotate' in bottles I've been aging that are due to be drunk; 2) create room for new purchases to come later in the year; and 3) avoid sitting on bottles that were gifts (from myself or others) that should be drunk now.

The first bottle I pulled from my stash was the Arger-Martucci Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Franc. When I visited the Napa Valley several years ago, this was one property my sister-in-law and I visited. It was a newer property that popped up on our radar and so we made an appointment and enjoyed a memorable afternoon sitting on their back picnic bench while tasting their wares and snacking on some cheese.

For Christmas this past year, I received a bottle of the Cab Franc as a gift. I was thrilled to see the wine in the market and happy to have an excuse to revisit one of their wines. I was also excited it was a bottling of Cab Franc, a grape that can fly under the radar screen for many consumers, but which is one of the 5 Bordeaux elite varietals that can legally be blended into red wines there. The grape is known for it's more earthy, vegetal qualities - the latter of which can be a bit too intense and stick out like a sore thumb. It's a varietal that can be hit or miss when bottled on its own, but when it's a hit, I'm a big fan.

The Arger-Martucci Cab Franc is likely in various US markets for around $35/bottle. This 2004 offering delivered blackberry, black cherry and red currant fruit, a subtle more mushroomy vegetal quality (as opposed to offending green bell peppers), and a nice layer of wet, black soil. The edges were soft and round, with a slight espresso bean flavor on the long finish. Its supple texture meant I had to really pace myself so as to avoid consuming it too quickly! It was a wine that was enjoyable when first uncorked but that certainly evolved and became more nuanced as it opened - important for a wine at this price point.

I needed no occasion to open this savory beverage other than a cozy night in, out of the cold, with a few extra dollars still in my pocket.

Cheers to that, right?

What to do with left over bubbly? drink it!

Did you end up with a few extra bottles of sparkling wine after New Year's this year? It seems to be the normal course of things - and many people hesitate to do the obvious thing with these wines, what with official "celebrations" behind us. But corks are meant to come out! Here's how I've gone about tackling this delicious, festive, "problem": This New Year the Prosecco of choice for my friends and I was Santome. This is one I'm sure I've blogged about in the past, because it delivers lifted, just tart green apple fruit and lemon zest flavors; it's more crisp, dry nature makes it a good one to make cocktails with if that's your bag, but it is also delicious all on its own. For $12.99 you have no guilt opening bottle after bottle - and if you stick with it all night, you're likely in a hangover free zone. But on December 31st we didn't quite make it through the full case, so I anted up for game night last weekend. Santome was the perfect accompaniment to the deviled egg appetizers I whipped up.

Next, I pulled out the bigger guns in my repertoire...

In my bubbly archives, I discovered I somehow still had one bottle of the 1999 Pierre Morlet Brut. With good friends who enjoy good wine, why not pop a cork? They are meant to come out after all, so what more of an occasion do you need? And this wine had already been in bottle for more than a decade. So as the pork tenderloin rested and the cinnamon scented butternut squash mashed potatoes cooled a little, we popped the cork on this bad boy, too. It had a lovely mousse, with just the right amount of toastiness, red and yellow apple fruits, and a lithe lemon cream texture. A wild accent of hazelnuts mid-palate made this wine a favorite among the group.

After savoring Pierre, we finished our bubbly spree with the very dry, mineral-laced Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut. Another winner, we enjoyed the texture of this wine also, with fine bubbles bringing pear and red apple fruit flavors quickly to bear. This wine was particularly memorable for the previously mentioned minerality - a clean, wet pebble/chalky essence. Delicious vin!

Remember, you don't need an official celebration or Real Occasion to enjoy sparkling wine. It is the most food friendly option available, pairing with every possible food, and delicious all on it's own. As you begin to dig your heals into 2011, I beg you to take sparkling wine with you on your travels more frequently! Why not make an easy night in with friends that much more enjoyable?

How often do you drink sparkling wine?

January is short change wine month

What's on my table this January? Everything good n'cheap! It's amazing what you can get your hands on after the New Year in particular, when wine buyers are particularly keen on discovering great wines for short change. Note that savvy buyers often can find wines that are in their prime but are offered by wholesalers for a reduced rate, who are busy trying to move out "old" inventory what with new vintages due in the coming few months. These professionals also appreciate that consumer's credit card bills will have been maxed out during the holiday gifting spree, but that while they still want some vinous love on a chilly night, quality should not be compromised. (Who wants to re-live their New Year's hangover?!) Of course, here in Massachusetts the liquor tax has been repealed. So as of the first of the year, we're "saving" 6.25% to boot!

Curious what am I sipping specifically?

Let's start with last weekend, when I was uber-happy to uncork the 2007 Chateau Les Tours Seguy Cotes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France). This is a wine that is chock full of French-tastic terroir (barnyard aromas and a hint of leather and checked earthy appeal on the palate) and supple blackberry, black currant and even some red fruits. It has great balance, but like most Bordeaux is better with food (game meats, hard cheeses, even pasta with meat sauce like lasagna - hell, I had it with Chicken Mushroom soup because the brussel sprouts and leeks in the dish brought savory earthy appeal to deliver a great match for the wine). We are pretty convinced this is a wine that is in it's prime right here, right now with just light, dusty tannins, good lift and integration. Even better, this is a wine that should retail in the high teens, and it is worth every penny; but because it was one of those wines cluttering up the  wholesaler's warehouse when new vintages are coming in,  it was available for a super low price, which the shop was happy to pass on to customers.  For $8.99, I'm one happy (repeat) customer!

What values are you finding out there so far this Winter?

Spain is on my table: Montsant's Magic

We're having schizophrenic weather (again) here in Beantown this late fall/early winter. Monday it was 53 degrees. Today we're capping out at 25, and it was bitterly cold last night. Someone said they heard it was "March weather" because it is all over the map. Whatever. It's Boston. It's always all over the map. But this year I can't complain, since we've had an absolutely ridiculously terrific weather year. Besides, I'm happy shopping at Wilson Farm for all the gourds and root vegetables that are prolific this time of year. Stuffed squash? Check. Pork tenderloin with Port-glazed brussel sprouts? Check. Hearty chicken soup? Check. In the wine scheme of things accordingly, it's true, I've had a good run in the Languedoc finding wines for "warmer" Fall days and that go easy on the wallet. But with the smell of winter in the air, I'm thinking more and more about Spain. It's a winemaking nation that’s impossible to synopsize because it is a country that has a great history in wine production, but today is one that looks to modern times (and palates) for guidance. As a result, it is arguably the Old World Mecca for innovation.

Ever heard of Samso? That’s ok, it’s just an alternate, local name for Carignan, which comprises the full 100% of fermented juice in a wine made by Clos de Noi. These folks are based in Montsant, one of my favorite nooks in Spain (and one I plan to visit next year). Carles Escolarhas is the winemaker behind this floral, intensely concentrated, fruit forward, teeth-sinking red. Ripe blackberry, black raspberry and bramble fruits, are accented with a touch of spice and Montsant’s increasingly sought, slatey minerality. Personally, I love the Clos de Noi all the more for its long, seductive finish.

There are plenty of places in Spain (Rioja, for example) that will warm you up this winter. But if you are a particular fan of big, bold reds with plenty of nuance - or even Priorat, Montsant's better known (pricier) neighbor - than this is an area for you to explore this winter.

What wines are you enjoying as our temps drop and we head into winter?

TW Food does it again - wine dinner featuring the Jura region

I can't remember the last time I wrote a restaurant review. I do have a list of places on my 'to talk about' list, though; some of these spots are more remote or 'hole in the wall' than others and I selfishly find I like to keep these hidden gems to myself before I dig deep to overcome my personal/professional block and write about them. The good news for you, dear reader, is that when I do finally 'break down' and share my impressions of certain fine establishments around town, you know my writings are heartfelt.

Time and again my experiences at the somewhat off-the-beaten path TW Food restaurant in Cambridge are exceptional ones - so much so that it was the "Something New" gift card I imparted on two of my best friends earlier this fall as part 2 of  their wedding present (part 1 being "Something Old" - a gift card to the spot where they had their first official date). The recent special tasting of Jura wines with food pairings by the ever-meticulous head Chef/Owner Tim Wiechmann that I attended was no exception. A small, talented team (maybe just Tim, his attentive wife Bronwyn and their knowledgeable Sommelier Jillian Marini?) in a small, cozy/romantic space seems to be all you need to create an unusually thoughtful, unobtrusive experience for guests. An artisanal approach doesn't hurt either...

Jillian's personal wine curiosity means that TW doesn't just deliver an amazing gastronomic experience, but that you are in for a treat when you also opt for the wine pairing as part of their prefix menu. I don't think there is a more reasonably priced meal around town - let alone one that will allow you, already an 'explorer' by virtue of the fact that you sought out TW Food in it's Cambridge nook, to further discover several distinct parts of the wine world and delicious flavor combinations at one sitting.

TW is also committed to the local/seasonal movement. This means that their wine list, though small, packs a real punch and is always fine-tuned to work with the fare of the season. Right now they are rock'n a largely Jura wine selection. The Jura is a tiny, lesser explored wine region bordering Burgundy and Switzerland. Wines from these regions share a certain similarity with one another - but as I always find is the case in these parts, they have their own chutzpah and personality, too. In the Jura their focus is on lesser known varietals like Poulsard and Trousseau (reds), and Savagnin and Chardonnay (whites). It can get beastly cold there, so yes, it is right to guess the reds tend to have a levity or lighter-bodied quality to them. Minerality (terroir) cuts through and distinguishes the wines in a such a distinct way that I can only analogize to say, it reminds me of a chilly winter day when it smells like snow is coming -  you just know it to be what it is.

During dinner we enjoyed Peggy Buronfosse's Cremant Rose of Pinot Noir Brut (a lively, delicious, finely bubbled sparkler with raspberry and blueberry intonations) as well as her 2006 Savagnin/Chardonnay blend called "Les Belemnites, which reminded me of an aged Chablis for its richness, truffle tones and caramel nuttiness you can get from an aged wine. Stephane Tissot's old vine Poulsard (2007) reminded me of a Gamay/Pinot Noir blend - and was a fine match for the seared tuna at hand. Dessert need not have come for the tremendous Vin Jaune by Jacques Puffeney (1999) was treat enough for me; Vin Jaune is considered a specialty of the Jura and one not to miss when the occasion presents itself.

At last check, each of these wines is available right now at TW Food. They are certainly ones I consider "nerd wines" - perfect for the wine curious explorer. And 'tis the season for giving and indulging! Head over to TW Food and you won't be disappointed.

Have you had the pleasure of dining at TW Food? What is it that keeps you going back?

thanksgiving wine ideas

For Thanksgiving you often think of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris as "perfect" pairings. And in fact, those are the varietals that I almost always seek out for the big day in part because they are such a good match but also because it is an 'excuse' to spend the bigger bucks on a great red Burgundy or some incredible Alsatian PG. But Thanksgiving really is an open-ended wine pairing holiday. Like chicken, turkey offers a clean slate. It's like the tofu of the meat world; it's something that needs dressing up to have a real identity. As such, wine pairing is more about all the sides you are going to prepare - cranberry sauce, earthy root vegetables like brussel sprouts or creamed white onions, or sweet potatoes, or your mother's fruit salad (with marshmallows) that you have every year because it's "tradition". Yes, the Pinot family can take the fun on home with sides like these. But the world really is your oyster!

Here are a few other ideas to consider - and when I say consider, I mean who all is coming to dinner, what their preferences might be and how to keep everyone happy (sometimes the real objective at your holiday gathering)....

Whites  ~

White Burgundy, or the more affordable alternative, Macon Chardonnay. The thing about these wines is that Burgundy (and the surround areas where you can spend a few less dollars) offers a full, fleshy and fruit-forward experience that won't weigh you down. They are gently oaked wonders, which means that you can still bring Chardonnay (a familiar grape) to the table without bringing a bottle of buttery, wooded, BIG juice, that won't quite work with such a big meal. Clean, pure, fruit and citrus lift are a winning combination.

Albarino. Albarino is an incredibly versatile option that will pair with anything. Its low alcohol, terrific, sea-like minerality and bright acidity keep your guests, and your overindulgence, in check, and also offers a little something unique and enjoyable beyond "the usual suspects". While gaining in popularity, it is still a grape that not everyone knows. Few are likely to have a preconceived notion of what to expect - and whether they will like it or not. Chances are - they will, too.

Reds ~

Malbec. Now this is a grape that people know and tend to have only very positive feelings about! And, it is also a grape that won't over-power the turkey and will certainly complement the earthier fare on your table. Seek out fruit forward, earthier styles (as opposed to the chocolatey, rich ones) for a real treat.

Zinfandel. Zin can be tricky because so many of them are so high in alcohol. That is dangerous both on an over-consumption level and also because it really can weigh you down. The juicy sweetness and slightly earthy nuance on offer (in great Zin) certainly pairs with the cranberry sauce. But for the Thanksgiving table that runs the 'non traditional' gamut in particular by delivering an Italian feast (and yet for folks that want a truly "American" wine to pair), this is an option to consider. My recommendation? In this case, spend the extra bucks to get a really well-made, more nuanced wine.

What will you be drinking next Thursday?

Is it all greek to you?

Greek wines get a bad rep in "mainstream" wine consumption - here in the US, at least. Did you know it was the Greeks back in 4000 BC that started cultivating grape vines? They believed that wine was a gift from the gods and worshipped Dionysus, a creature with the mind of a man and the instinct of beast. Fortunately  modern times have not only brought back a resurgence in Greek wine production, but now in the 21st Century, we have a MUCH great chance of enjoying delicious Greek wines on our shores. I'm serious. Because of my connection with Ball Square Fine Wines in Somerville I've been fortunate to have been exposed to these wines and have tasted what I believe is the best of what Greece has to offer. And the offering is ample. There are serious, well made, sometimes even "nerdy" wines on the market. Sure, you might be lulled by the new "My Big Fat Greek Wine" that has recently come to Boston. And no, I by no means think that this is a good example of fine Greek wine; (in fact, I think it is a disservice to Grecian wine making and American consumers alike that they've used such a clever marketing ploy to pimp what I find is a fairly insipid wine, regardless of origin. I'm just saying...)

So why hasn't Greek wine taken off? Well, the names are a bit of a mouthful. Greece excels at producing wines from indigenous, local varietals that you really can't pronounce. I'm still working on it, admittedly, and I've been tasting them for 4 years now! Yes, there are some wineries that are blending in "international varietals" like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Syrah. But it is the Moscofilero-s and St.George's (aka Aghiorgitiko-s) of the world that set Greek wines apart from the rest.

Moscofilero is a white grape that gets its name from the Greek words for Mosco (meaning fragrant) and Filo (meaning leaf). It is an ancient varietal for sure, but it's aromatics are so fresh you'll be thinking of spring in an instant. It is a wine that I often suggest is akin to Sauvignon Blanc (especially from the Loire Valley, France) or even Viura or Verdejo from Spain. Earlier this week at a Greek-themed wine dinner at Bistro 5, one of the guests said the same thing.

One of my favorite red varietals at the moment (i.e. a grape I have been showing a little "favoritism" to on the home-front, yes, something that is hard to do and admit in this trade) is St. George, aka Aghiorgitiko. (Specifically, I'm enamored with the Skouras Nemea St. George, which for a mere $14.99 is a FIND as far as I'm concerned. It definitely "over delivers" - and would be perfect with your Thanksgiving feast.)  Back to the grape, Aghiorgitiko translates to St. George and is a name change that came about back in antiquity, when the wine was known as the Blood of the Lion. It got its name St. George during the conversion to Christianity - something about the parallel between Hercules killing the lion and St. George killing the dragon.... New wine name, new religion and poof! Rebecca has a new wine find to share with universe in the making. Un-oaked styles are fruit forward and lively, yet display a truly Old World earthiness in perfect moderation. I can't get enough.

Bottom line: Most consumers only seek out Greek wines after they've returned from a vacation or honeymoon in Santorini, for example. I say let your curiosity guide you home.

BSFW will be having a Greek wine tasting this Wednesday, Nov. 17. Check it out!

Are you familiar with Greek wines? Which is your favorite varietal?