Back to School, aka Wines for Fall: Petit Verdot

Now that it is fall again and I see kids heading off to school clearly trying to fit in while being their own person, I'm reminded there are some fun varietals out there that don't always get the attention they deserve. And there are some perfect ones for this time of year! Let's take a closer look... Petit Verdot is a grape varietal known for contributing great depth, color and florals to wines, but also has a reputation as a Johnny Come Lately.  This black-skinned grape has a tough time ripening without consistently warm enough temperatures. In Bordeaux where it is best known perhaps, relative cool temperatures more often prevail. There Petit Verdot doesn't fully mature until the end of October, too late to really start the fall school year with the other kids.

What other kids? Well, Petit Verdot is one of the top 5 (Noble) red grapes used in Bordeux reds, alongside the bigger players Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the often smaller ones, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. No surprise, each of these grapes has an important role. Petit Verdot's most recognized (and perhaps critical) contribution is to the wine's structure or backbone, but I've noticed in print it doesn't get as much attention for some of its other attributes.

This will likely change soon enough. Case in point: my full appreciation for what Petit Verdot can contribute to its counterparts only came when I spent some time with it on its own.  And fortunately folks in California and Australia, where the warmer climates are much more conducive to this grape's maturation, are happy to give this varietal a chance to sing its own tune.

The Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot is a great example of a wine destined for the head of the class as a fall favorite. This is a great BBQ wine.  It is super dark in color, almost like the ink spilling from your pen. If you missed your opportunity to pick up some fresh mint at the farmer's market, you have a second chance by taking in the nose of this wine. It is not at all shy about delivering dark berry fruit and some dark chocolate flavors on the palate, either. The firm tannins and acidity (there's that structure it's famous for!) give this wine just the food-friendly oomph you hope for when grilled meat's on the menu.

If you've never had a chance to experience this lesser known, (lesser established perhaps?), grape varietal on it's own, your homework is to do so this fall. For those of you who have had the luck of finding a bottle of the stuff, won't you share with the class?

red wine and vegetarians, an oxymoron?

Last week a woman approached me on one of the first very cool evenings of the fall here in Boston. She explained she is a vegetarian who loves a great red wine. She told me all summer she had been drinking white because it was warm enough for it, but in her heart of hearts she really preferred reds. What did I recommend? It is true that white wines and vegetables do go well together. Certainly when fresh greens, vegetables, fruits and berries are at the ready in the summer and great big salads are more often on the menu, this is a natural choice. But white wine and veggies don't always have to be partners in crime. This is especially true this time of year when the weather is starting to turn and you are eager for a taste of red wine to warm you up!

The keys to your fall/winter veggie success? Here's a clue: think about what else happens more naturally when it is colder out and you enjoy to cook...

I'd be surprised if your answer didn't have something to do with turning on the oven and stove again. That's right! Cooking techniques can vary a heck of a lot more in the cooler/colder months because you aren't adverse to inadvertently heating up the house. And where wine is involved, you should remember from my earlier posts how you prepare a dish can drastically alter your ideal beverage options.

Another part of your answer likely has to do with the types of vegetables available to you. Case in point: my conversation with this woman quickly turned to the full-figured "earthy" vegetables available in the market this time of year. She and I started planning menus on the spot, dreaming about an enchilada stuffed with chunks of roasted butternut squash, portabella mushrooms, sweet onion, garlic and spinach and then 'garnished' with a smokey tomato sauce.

What are your red wine pairing options? Many! To start, mushrooms love Tempranillo (Rioja), Zin, Sangiovese (Chianti), Malbec and Merlot. Tomatoes love a great deal of the same wines, perhaps adding Barbera to the mix for fuller-figured entrees or Pinot Noir if your dish is on the lighter side. If you are seasoning your dish with some 'earthy' herbs (e.g. sage, rosemary, & thyme), these wines would do well also. Tending toward the more Holiday feel on a given night and tossing in some nutmeg? You could add Syrah to that initial list of reds, too. You don't have to pair with the main ingredient, but can consider what other flavors will be apparent, too.

Needless to say, if you are a vegetarian and a red wine drinker first, there is no need to feel limited! Simply tweak how you are preparing the dish to complement the wine of your choosing.

Are you a vegetarian, red-wine drinker? How do you cope?

your local wine... and news of new technology to keep you sipping happily

If  I was back behind a desk/computer 24-7 this week, I'd likely be following the latest about the market's ups and downs and supplementing with check-ins at ESPN.com to see what's being said about this weekend's football match-ups and how the baseball standings are evolving.  To add a little something different to your news feed, I can't help but share two completely unrelated, wine-related news stories that caught my attention. First, if you're local to the Greater/Boston area you may be happy (and pleasantly surprised) to learn Jewell Towne Vineyards in New Hampshire recently won accolades from Joel Stein at Time Magazine. On learning each of the fifty states produces wine, Stein apparently couldn't help himself. He set out to taste wines from each state (and clarify for the American masses whether "terroir" matters. Incidentally, he did not come to any great revelations on the terroir topic - and we all know I have my own opinion...). He learned there are some good wines out there from some unsuspecting states - and some truly horrific ones. Case in point: while Jewell Towne might have figured out a thing or two regarding their Muscat, Cape Cod Winery needs to keep at it (receiving an "undrinkable" rating for their Nobska Red).

In his tongue-in-cheek review, Stein writes  the Jewell Towne's Valvin Muscat is: sweet but balanced, with some nice mineral on the finish, like a good riesling. It's not a wine that's trying too hard or is too proud of itself. It just gets the job done right. This is one of the very few wines we drank the whole bottle of. Who knew New Hampshire was better at picking grapes than Democratic nominees?

NOTE: While I don't subscribe to rating systems per se, I DO subscribe to the idea of tasting even the most unsuspecting wines, as Stein did. Only by tasting as many different wines as possible from as many different locations around the world will you learn what you do and don't prefer. This is an important process that takes time. So have at it!

Switching gears, if you're curious about the constantly evolving wine packaging/storing world and which technologies are at play, I've found another little something for you to keep an eye out. Decanter reported an Idaho company called PakSense has developed a wine label that changes color with temperature variation. This little gizmo has been adopted by folks in WTN Services in California to prevent "cooked" wine from landing in the marketplace. I can't imagine it is a perfect system given all of the moving parts involved from wine bottling initially to actually getting the wine on shelves. But it might help.

So! Here are my questions of the day for you:

Are you from a lesser-known wine-producing state? Have you tried the local offerings?

Do you think the PakSense label is worth the extra expense?

wine blogging wednesday - a toast...

Wine Blogging Wednesday themes never cease to entertain me. This month they're a bit behind schedule, but then again, that seems to work with the theme... A Toast to the End of the Bush Era . I don't usually mix my politics and my wine, so I hope my readers will forgive this inadvertent aberration. In appreciation of your understanding, I will do my very best to keep my comments neutral and focus on the wine I selected this month for this special occasion. Have you ever had the absolute pleasure of drinking a Moscato d'Asti?

My love affair with Moscato d' Asti goes something like this... It doesn't matter if I'm celebrating something in particular and want to have something with a touch of bubbly. It doesn't matter if I've made a fabulous Thai dish or spicy curry for dinner. It doesn't matter if I just want a touch of sweetness after my meal, in lieu of "official" dessert. It doesn't matter if I'm heading out on a picnic (this concept is more of a fantasy for me than something I actually do, for some reason, but I know this would be a perfect wine for that also). And it doesn't matter if I'm settling in for another late-morning brunch watching Sports Center. These wines always scratch the right itch for me.

Northeast of Alba, in the mountain-enclosed region of Piedmont, Italy, you can find the signature grape Moscato turned into all of its magical, wine goodness called Moscato d'Asti. Technically Muscat Bianco is an ancient French varietal that goes by several different (similar) names - and is thought to be the oldest grape known to man (I just love that fact!). The practice of making this wine in a lightly bubbly, or frizzante (fizzy) style via the charmant or tank method began in the 1870. It is delicate, lightly sweet and gorgeously fruity. Winemakers must keep the alcohol low, with a maximum of 5.5% permitted by law. This means very little of the grape's natural sugar is convereted into alcohol and wine remains, you guessed it, naturally sweet! These wines are also stopped with a regular cork because the wine is under less pressure than other bubblies like Champagne, Cava or Prosecco. If you pick up a bottle you'll notice it is vintage dated (and meant to be drunk young and fresh). Drink it chilled and serve it in a regular wine glass. The bubbles are small and long-lasting on their own.

The wine I chose for this "assignment" is the 2006 Borgo Maragliano 'La Caliera' Moscato d'Asti. There is almost no information available on this wine, but fortunately I have a connection with the importer that allowed me to get an inside look...

La Caliera is made by the Galliano family who owns the 35 acres of vines on their property in the smallest DOC in Italy, Loazzolo (boasting 350 people). There is a long history and tradition in the area for making Moscato d'Asti, as I mentioned before. So while the Galliano's make other bubbly wines, this is their flagship. The name 'La Caliera' is actually a tribute to their neighbor, who was described as a generous, kind and warm-hearted woman with a noble and quiet character ~ that which is reflected in the old, limestone and marl vineyards on the property.

Smelling the wine makes you feel as though you've just entered a great, big garden. The wine offers unique aromas of fresh violets! As you take a sip, honey, peaches and apricot flavors dance on your tongue. Its trademark finish is lively, long and luscious and will leave your mouth watering from its vibrant acidity. Suffice to say, this is a wine every great leader should have in his/her repertoire. It delivers only sweet success! (How's that for neutral "political" commentary?!)

'tis the season to be tasting!

This weekend I fielded an oh-so timely and very relevant question: "if you don't taste wines for a living, how can you find new wine finds and otherwise expand your palate?" As it turns out, Labor Day is the unofficial start to the Trade's Tasting Season. What do I mean? Well, we in the trade have the opportunity to attend numerous industry-only wine tastings. These tastings are organized to 'show' fine wine vendors and restaurateurs the latest vintage releases from around the world - baring in mind that those offerings from the Southern Hemisphere operate on a Spring release schedule, so it is likely those wines have been available for several months. How does this impact you, the consumer?

Many fine wine shops use these trade shows to discover new wines to bring to you. Think of it this way: we spit, so you don't have to! And - even better - while these new wines usually end up on the shelves beginning this month, it is also very common for wine shops to offer their customers an opportunity to sample new wares at Fall Grand Tasting events. These are not only free to attend, but significant discounts are always on offer, particularly if you buy in bulk (half a case, a case, or more, of wine). Stocking up for the holidays or your general fall/winter drinking pleasure has never been such fun.

QUICK TIP: Get to the event early to be able to taste all the wines you care to!

How do you find out about these Grand Tastings? If you don't have a favorite local shop just yet, find out which Fine Wine shops are in your area and get on each of their e-mail lists to learn about tasting opportunities.  (This will also serve as an opportunity for you to find out which shop might best suit your needs.) The best shops often will have weekly tasting opportunities (of much smaller scale) that are worth your while, too.

Another recommendation for finding new wines is to subscribe to numerous wine blogs. Using an RSS reader program like Google Reader is a great way to organize your blogs, more quickly find out what's new and otherwise search for specific items - like which Syrah might be winning the Every Day Joe taste test, rather than the ones offered by Wine Spectator and the like. It's true different parts of the country - and certainly the world - have access to different wines, but finding out what strikes another wine afficionado's fancy is a great step in learning about wine and building a relationship with your local shop (which you'll have to turn to to investigate availability and pricing, particularly if your state doesn't permit interstate internet sales.)

If you're in the Boston area, which Grand Wine Tasting events do you know are upcoming for the public?

wine-related funding news (part II)

Just one week ago I was frustrated and reported on the lack of federal and other wine-related research funding available. I realized shortly thereafter perhaps, in my urgency to get back on the blogging bandwagon,  I was being a bit too hard on the Powers That Be - or at least was likely looking at the funding issue with too narrow a lens, not my usual M.O., so apologies to all. This week I've continued to get caught up on wine world news/gossip from while I was away as well as anything that might be more late-breaking. (For example, I'm now widely read on the Wine Spectator "scam"/"scandal" that broke at the end of August.) I was delighted to discover another, more positive news article about the Who's Who in wineries who were awarded USDA (US Department of Agriculture) Rural Development Grants, specifically via their Business and Cooperatives Value-Added Producer Grants (VAPG) program.

elk-run-winery-and-usda-grant-recipient

These funds are no joke. In my previous life I had the good fortune of working with rural communities across the country - and help them to go after and receive other USDA grant monies to improve economic development opportunities in their communities. I know too well how hard it is to a) put together a proposal given strict USDA guidelines and regulations and b) how stiff the competition is for these limited funds. For this particular round of funding nearly $20 Million was on the table, allowing 144 businesses in 37 states and Puerto Rico to benefit. Grants ranged widely, I'm sure depending on the scope and size of the project, from $2,500 to $300,000.

According to the USDA VAGP website, Value-Added Producer Grants may be used for feasibility studies or business plans, working capital for marketing value-added agricultural products and for farm-based renewable energy projects. Eligible applicants include independent producers, farmer and rancher cooperatives, and agricultural producer groups.

Congratulations to the independent wineries in Iowa and Maryland (and perhaps elsewhere?) that received awards this year! We look forward to seeing the fruits of your rewards.

(If you are a winery and would like additional information about this and other grants available, contact the folks at Wine America.)

Do you know of other valuable funding opportunities for wine industry professionals and the like?

earthy genious in a bottle of cab franc

I love Cabernet Franc. There, I've said it. I know many people who are disinclined to this often vegetal-tasting/smelling grape varietal, but I quite enjoy it. Perhaps you've had it and you haven't even realized it. It is a grape that often plays second or third fiddle in Bordeaux blends. If you're palate has taken you to the Loire Valley of France and you enjoyed a red wine from Chinon or Saumur-Champigny, you've enjoyed this varietal on its own. Likewise, you may also have tried a bottle from a California producer, where the grape is increasingly getting a chance to play the lead role. But if you're really lucky, you'll have tasted some from the Finger Lakes region of New York State. The Finger Lakes is an up-and-coming wine region here in the US. Cold as You-Know-What up in those parts, the Lakes do play a critical role in moderating the otherwise frosty climate. With proper vine grafting, Riesling has done tremendously well (as has Chardonnay). In fact Dr. Frank's Rieslings are thought to rival those of Germany's Saar region. Reds are starting to get some more attention, too. Cabernet Franc from this region has even caught the attention of world-reknowned wine writer, Jancis Robinson. And with good reason.

My mentor gifted me a bottle of Red Newt Cellars' 2004 Cabernet Franc several months ago. She knows my palate enjoys a good frolick with cab franc and she is in the less-inclined category I mentioned earlier. She is also from upstate New York and knew this would be a good opportunity for me to taste this up and coming New York state wine - wines that are nearly impossible to get hold of here in Massachusetts. I knew it was going to be a fun wine to drink so I bided my time waiting for an opportunity when the weather (temperate) and my dinner menu (something "earthy" involved, e.g. mushrooms, eggplant, rosemary, etc.) were in sync.

Only the comfort of Chicken Marsala, garlic/rosemary mashed potatoes and snow peas would ease our pain from having watched Tom Brady injure himself in the first quarter of last Sunday's game. The evening was gorgeous, too.  And so the stars had aligned to pop the cork of the Newt Cab Franc in my cellar.

What we found was a treat. Red Newt Cellars produced a lighter-styled Cab Franc, with gentle tannins and moderate acidity. The fruit was the most distinguishing characteristic, offering bright, ripe red fruits - cranberry and raspberries seemed most evident to me - followed by soft spice and earth. In a blind taste test I may have said it was a Pinot Noir - being both more accustomed to the bigger, bolder Cab Franc offerings I'm used to drinking from CA and lacking (in a refreshing way) the strong bell pepper notes so often evident in wines from the Loire.

True to form (having experience the wine for myself first), the next day I took my notes and went online to see what the winemaker or other "experts" had to say about the wine's characteristics. The winemaker certainly hoped I'd have the experience I did! For the 2005 vintage he writes, "cranberry and raspberry with overtones of smoke and spice make an elegant red that shows well young and ages beautifully. Cabernet Franc is one of the most promising red varieties ever introduced in the Finger Lakes. Structure is typically complex, complete but delicate. Color is moderate to dark and tannins soft." Complete but delicate were probably my happiest memories of the wine - I couldn't have said it better myself!

What's your experience with Cab Franc? Are you as inclined as I to pick up a bottle? Or, is this a new one on you - and one you might take for a test drive in future?

Turkish wine

I first had the opportunity to vacation on the lovely (Turkish) Cyprus island two years ago when my friend invited me to stay with her family for a couple of weeks.  Whether it was because Turkey is largely a Muslim nation or because my friend's parents don't imbibe very often, drinking wasn't a big part of that trip. I tried Raki once - a strong, clear brandy that tastes of anise - but was not a fan, as my nephew would say. I also remember trying a glass of red wine at a Beer Garden there and found it almost undrinkable. It was so acidic and unbalanced I was happy to stick with the thirst-quenching Effes beer that dominated nightspot venues. This summer we were visiting for the same friend's wedding celebration and decided to spend a few days in Istanbul on the way. The first night we were there we saddled up to a local mezze joint and selected a half bottle of wine from the restaurant's wine list. I should also mention doing so was a rather bizarre task....

Turkey is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world.  It is also fourth in grape production. But something like only 2% of these grapes are used for wine, the majority consumed as fruit or raisins themselves. Most of their grape varietals are also indigenous; and you've probably noticed subconsciously the US does not import Turkish wine - or at least not for mainstream consumption. I easily admit I knew nothing of Turkish wines beyond my one attempt to drink a Beer Garden offering two years prior. This trip I really wanted to dig in - and it was so hot it was easy to long for a cool glass of white or rose to quench my thirst.

My task was not an easy one however, as in Istanbul we discovered right away wine lists were not terribly helpful. They provided the Turkish Producer and Turkish Wine Name (both having no meaning to me), followed by a brief, generic description (e.g. Dry, White; Dry, Red; etc.), not the grape varietal or a sense of flavors present in the wine. Wait staff were not fluent in describing the wines either, even if their English was quite good. The sum of these parts was a recipe for a hit/miss wine-selecting approach. Fortunately, I was open to experimenting.

That first night I pulled a David Ortiz. My random selection of the Kayra Buzbag Beyaz white hit it out of the ballpark. It was medium bodied and fleshy, full of gorgeous, succulent fruit flavors and citrus. It had a touch of minerality, too, but was not spicy. This was the ultimate blind tasting: I had no idea which grape varietal it could possibly be or could be related to as a potentially indigenous varietal or, better yet, if it was a blend. All I knew was that it reminded me of Semillon or perhaps Vouvray (Chenin Blanc). I took down some notes and vowed to research the wine once home.

I was happy to discover I wasn't terribly far off when I found these wine notes: “Selection Beyaz” is produced from Narince and Semillon grapes selected in their respective vineyards of Tokat and Trakya. Well-structured, citrus fruit, fresh quince and coconut taste. It goes well with chicken and fish with sauce.

Not too shabby! My only regret is we never found this bottle of wine again. We discovered another restaurant in Istanbul with truly phenomenal cacik (apologies for the lack of accents), hummus, and chicken shish (kebabs) and a dynamic Maitre D we couldn't help but return to - though their wine list offered the more mainstream (completely drinkable) wines produced by Doluca.

Have your summer adventures take you to new wine frontiers?

another one bites the dust. oenological research heads down under (again)

And... she's back! And I haven't let the jetlag from my trip to Istanbul and Cyprus slow me down a bit. Afterall, I have your needs first! I launched right into tasting season here in Beantown on Wednesday afternoon, spitting so you don't have to.  Being out in the "field" does challenge a girl to stay on top of other wine related news. But in the fray, I found something this week I thought might be interesting for us to banter about: oenolgoical research. A few weeks ago I posted about dogs in the vineyard and their role in sniffing out vine mealy bugs. Additional research for that post really got my curiosity up about other projects underway to help winemakers and viticulturists do what they do best. Then a couple of days ago I saw an article on Wines & Vines (my source for nerdier information about what's do'n in the trade) about Dr. Kennedy abandoning ship in Oregon for better funded research opportunities in Australia.

Booming wine biz Down Under certainly has made that part of the world a sweet haven of luscious research. Those guys aren't afraid to take a risk - applying modern techniques to their wine making approach and out in the fields. But calculated risk-taking is all the better. And so the Australian Government have done their part to fund research on a variety of topics including Pierce's Disease, one that first emerged in the US winemaking regions of California and Florida. Even a quick Google search loads numerous links to organizations like the Australian Wine Research Institute and the Grape and Wine Research and Development Corporation, an organization/partnership between the Aussie Government and the wine industry. If you do the same search with US inserted, you get links to information about wine and health-related research, not winemaking et. al.

In the US industry money feeds the research engine. The last I know of research funding coming from within the US federal government was an attempt to integrate a request for funding via the Farm Bill in 1995; (I don't think it was on the roster last year when this bill was up again, but please correct me if I'm wrong). I don't think that attempt was successful, either. State funding is likely another can of worms. I'd be shocked if California, for example, doesn't have some funds allocated accordingly.

I'm not terribly surprised that wine research funding isn't a national priority. And I'm not even advocating that it should be. But it is an interesting bit of news. How many more US researchers are going to abandon ship? Dr. Kennedy is making the move on the heels of Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling, formerly of Cornell.

What do you think? Should the wine industry bare the brunt of funding research? Do you know how much funding comes from which sources here in the US?

que syrah, shiraz!

You've heard me talk about Syrah here and there over the months. This is because I'm a huge fan of Rhone Valley (French) wines, both Northern and Southern alike (though for different reasons). Syrah is a grape you'll often find blended along side it's happy varietal partners Grenache and Mouvedre in the Southern Rhone in particular. I love these wines. They have boisterous fruit, a hint of spice and a rustic edge. Syrah got it's known kick off in slightly cooler parts of the Northern Rhone. What do I mean by "known"? Well, the grape's precise geographic origins aren't fully known with speculation the Greeks or the Romans had something to do with it. Nevertheless, in the village of L'Hermitage, named after the chapel that sits at the top of the town's primary hill, Syrah has its claim to fame. (The nearby Cotie Rotie is also well-known for it's Syrah.) The Northern Rhone boasts a cooler climate than its Southern counterpart because the Mistral winds bring cooler temps down from the Massif Central. Getting too technical on you? No worries... suffice to say it's consistently cooler up North with few microclimates to permit variation vineyard to vineyard. That means there's less opportunity for many different red grape varietals to thrive. In the North, Syrah can work its mojo. In the South, Syrah is one of 20 other major grape varietals that flourish - hence all the blending down in those parts (it's so fun!). Meanwhile, the French have done the only thing that could be done: mandate Syrah is the only red grape varietal permitted in the Northern Rhone's AOC wines.

Syrah is a "big" red grape. It is very dark in color, full bodied, fleshy and full of tannin. I always associate black pepper spice with these wines and look forward to picking out the myriad of potential aromas on the nose of each different Syrah wine. Sometimes it's all violets, sometimes a bit of cocoa, and other times its all big, blackberry fruit. At the end of the day, they promise to be supple, sexy, smooth wines.

I often get the question "So, what about Shiraz?". Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape, genetically. The minor name variation is just an Old World v. New World phenomenon. The flavor profile of Syrah vs. Shiraz wines certainly vary though. This is based on the winemaking style and climate of the wine's origin. For example, Syrah from the Northern Rhone (and generally, other Old World areas) tend to offer a little less fruit, a little more smoke and a bit more subtlety in the many flavors that coalesce in the glass. Typical of New World winemaking practices, Shiraz wines from Australia or California tend to put their fruit foot first, their pepper foot second and otherwise tend to be higher in alcohol (due to the warmer climates from which they hail).

Neither Shiraz nor Syrah is better than the other; it just is what it is. The trick is to taste a few offerings of each. This way you'll find your personal preference between the two styles. And before you taste, it's a good idea to decant. Younger wines will lap up the oxygen on offer and provide a more integrated, 'evolved' flavor profile, if you will. Older wines relish the chance to throw their sediment (into the decanter, rather than into your glass).

Which syrah/shiraz style do you prefer?