Is "table wine" just plonk?

Last weekend I went out to dinner at one of my favorite local spots. They change their somewhat small, but uniquely satisfying menu frequently, ensuring they always offer the best seasonal fare. What's even more fun for me is their enormous wine list. Thinking about it now (chuckling), there are probably 10 different red and 10 different white wine options that could pair with every one dish!  I always enjoy navigating their extensive list to pair a wine for both me and my date to enjoy with our different meals. On Saturday night my date was having grilled veal chops, with couscous and a fried onion. I was having the rosemary chicken breast, with fingerling potatoes, leeks and roasted garlic. Each of these dishes was a great example of tasty American fare. Nothing pretentious about either. No unique dressing or gravy. Just good ole fashioned, albeit beautifully prepared, comfort food.

Sometimes you just want something that's easy drinking. Sometimes your meal is classically satisfying and delicious enough you don't need to spend the extra cash on a truly remarkable bottle of wine. Better yet, sometimes you just can't spend the extra few dollars.

An ideal pairing for both of our dishes may have been a very earthy, more robust New World style Pinot Noir. But none jumped out at me on the list. We had also been spoiled by a truly gorgeous bottle of Pinot with the same characteristics the night before. (We had homemade chicken marsala with rosemary mashed potatoes; we splurged on the Reynold's Family Pinot Noir - and it was a tremendous delight). I decided to turn my attention to their basic red table wine offerings.

I know some of you out there may be timid to opt for such a selection when out to eat at a nice place. Here's my thinking on the matter: If the wine buyer at the restaurant is going to take the time to pick out so many beautiful offerings, you can be almost certain their table wine option(s) is/are solid. Will the wine knock your socks off? Not necessarily. But will it be food friendly (having solid acidity and/or tannin) and otherwise scratch the itch? No doubt.

Wine shopping tip: My favorite every-day table wine is the Cayalla Red with fruit from both Washington and Oregon. Keep an eye out for it! Since that wasn't on the list, we ended up with Fenestra True Red Lot 22. For this wine Fenestra blends French and Spanish varietals, 56% from the Rhone Valley, 25% from Bordeaux, and 19% from Spain. I have to say too, this wine is an example when 'vintage', or each year they make it, matters. Technically it is a non vintage wine, but their previous release (Lot 21) was not exactly my favorite.... When I tasted the Lot 22 a few weeks ago, I was pleasantly surprised. It offers terrific red raspberry aromas, and delivers black cherries and raspberries on the palate. A hint of earthy leather comes to fruition as it opens. The Lot 22 is medium-bodied, its acidity is dead on and the tannins are delightfully smooth. These elements make the wine enjoyable on its own, too - before your meal even arrives.

Was my date blown away by my selection? Not this time. Was that my goal? Not entirely. I wanted something that would split the difference for us, perfectly palatable where the food could shine and our thirst would be quenched. It did both.

I'd argue a good table wine comes in a notch or two above "plonk" - reasonably priced for reasonably good juice.

What's your favorite, go-to Table Wine?

Fancy free fundraising: wine tastings, galas and dinners galore!

Wine Gala for Guide Dogs

I feel I owe your eyes a bit of a rest after my exuberant postings of late. (I know I can get carried away with my enthusiasm!) And today I'm curious what you think.... In the world of wine "trends" I often find myself consulting on wine-related fundraising events. And, 'tis the season for them! Once the wine trade season is over (early October) it's as if the entire wine-drinking community takes the ball and runs with it - for great causes, too!

So today I hope you'll share with me and your friends...

Which type of wine fundraisers have you attended in the past (dinner, gala, informal tasting/auction, etc)?

What was your motivation - the good deed, the merriment, or both?

Is there an upcoming event you want others to know about?

wines for fall: the fiesty and fabulous!

Today the rain and leaves are swirling and the sun isn't due to show itself.  On burly fall days like these, there's nothing better than an awesome bottle of wine to hunker down with and lift your spirits! The last few weeks I've broken down the nerdier nuances of cool red varietals perfect for fall. While fabulous on their own, sometimes the best of the best are actually blends of a few - or several - different grapes. Given the circumstances outside my office window, it's only appropriate that we start exploring these finds with the 2005 SNAFU red blend.

SNAFU? Yep! That would be translated as Situation Normal All F***d Up. This wine is the brainchild of both Paul Moser (Winemaker) and the Local Wine Company, a group dedicated to bringing us some of the coolest blends from the Pacific Northwest and California. I get the sense that the Chicago-based wine geeks at LWC get an idea for a wine and then send their general, and no doubt entertaining, musings to one of the folks in their winemaking contingency....

I can't help but think for the 2005 SNAFU red wine the LWC Powers That Be gave Mr. Moser notes that said something like, "we want a wine with tremendous chutzpah that sources as many grapes from as many subregions in California as possible - and still maintains a sense of place.... You know, the wine you want to come home to at the end of a long day that reminds you of something familiar, but gives you a little something more, too."  Moser did their 'request' justice, though from the sounds of it, what's tucked inside that bottle wasn't necessarily what was originally planned; they did call it SNAFU, after all!

SNAFU is a blend of 42% Petite Sirah (the monster grape) & 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 8% Merlot and Syrah, 6% Zinfandel and 3% Petite Verdot (the late-bloomer on the playground this fall). What's noteworthy about this wine is how well each of the grapes in this blend harmonize. It's tremendous, in fact! It's greatest component, Petite Sirah, is cold soaked for four days and then pressed to concentrate the fruit. This technique offers the wine fabulous depth (that "oomph" and backbone we spoke about earlier), but manages how much tannin (dryness) remains in the final product. The Cabernet, also cold pressed, offers classic flavors of currant, black fruits, and spice. I argue the Merlot contributes a softer, more elegant edge, and brings home the (similar) fruit flavors you get from the Cab. The Syrah adds a touch of earthiness and herbaceousness; the Zin provides berry sweetness, and the Petit Verdot offers its color and floral aromatics.

I know I don't offer my own wine notes that often on this site, but I do have quite a bit of fun writing them for myself and my clients and their guests. Here's what I came up with the last time I gave this wine a whirl!

This wine's name says it all: Situation Normal... and it is wonderful as a result! This is a killer blend of Petite Sirah (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), and other red varietals sourced from various vineyards throughout California. SNAFU opens with all the panache you can imagine, fresh blueberry and raspberry fruits explode onto the stage. Then you taste its earthier side, as if it had to take a quick walk through a wet forest to collect itself before the curtain went up. And yet it all comes together easily, delivering a well-executed, perfectly delightful performance. Buy your tickets to this show early!

What red blends are you a fan of this fall season?

Portuguese wines are worth seeking out

Last Thursday night I was not on my usual perch watching the (second) most amazing ALCS comeback in history. "Why not?", you ask, shocked this Red Sox fan was elsewhere.... I was attending an intimate wine dinner at (the new) L'Espalier hosted by ViniPortugal. I would not have traded the opportunity for one moment. Much like the Red Sox game, I had my own uniquely amazing evening, learning more about the 'nerdier' side of Portuguese oenology, tasting an array of wines and bending the ear of Portugal's most revered (and perhaps most delightful) winemaker.

Many Americans think of Portuguese wines (beyond Port) simply as bargain, quaffing wines. Not bad, but not necessarily noteworthy or particularly complex either.  When I received my invitation to last week's event, I was thrilled at the opportunity to meet Nuno Cancela de Bareu, Portugal's leading Winemaker and Consultant, and learn more about what ViniPortugal is up to these days. My experience (re)tasting about 12 wines - red, white, sparkling and dessert - only reconfirmed what I've known for sometime: Portuguese wines are worth seeking out.

Let's start at the beginning, shall we?

Nuno Cancela de Abreu is perhaps Portugal's primary, modern-day wine pioneer. He studied in both Portugal and France, ultimately receiving his degree in viticulture and enology from the Instituto Superior de Agronomia in Lisbon. He spent six years in the Duoro region, influencing the modern production of Port and Douro wines. Next, he planted a new vineyard on family land in the Dao and, as a result, launched two brands (Quinta da Giesta and Quinta Fonte do Ouro). Somehow he simultaneously managed Quinta da Romeira in the Bucelas region and single-handedly brought the wonderfully floral, minerally and fruity indigenous grape Arinto into its own. Thereafter he revolutionized Quinta da Alorna's operation in the Ribatejo region. Nuno's passion is to transform Portuguese wines (and their reputation) into fine, internationally recognized and coveted selections. And, in my humble opinion, the world should be grateful for it! He is well on his way.

Nuno was asked to introduce the group to several of his favorite Portuguese selections - not necessarily his own wines - available in the Boston market. The list of wines on offer are too long to discuss in great detail in this single post, so I'll simply list a few now and then spend some time here and there over the next months talking about various offerings in greater detail. Are you ready?

Whites

'07 Quinta de Catralvos Lisa (a lovely, fleshy, floral and clean Moscatel)

'07 Deu la Deu (aka "Muros Antigos" in Boston) Alvarinho (same as Albarino in Spain - wonderfully rich peaches and apricots, with a touch of bite)

'07 Quinta da Murta Arinto (it says Bucelas, the region, on the label, but this is 100% intensely floral and minerally Arinto - don't be confused!)

Reds

'04 Casa de Santar Rsv  (a blend of Castelao, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca - soft, fine tannins and redberry fruits)

'06 Quinta do Coa ( a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Franca - one I had forgotten how much I enjoy, offering great floral aromas, dark fruits, some soft, caramel oak flavors and terrific spice)

'05 Cartuxa Rsv (Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alfrocheiro - this is a big food wine, offering fabulous dried plumb and raisin fruit aromas and flavors, spice and a subtle, lasting finish)

Bubbly

'07 Luis Pato Espumate Rose (this is 100% Baga, gently bubbly raspberries and strawberries!)

Dessert

Andresen 20 Yr. Tawny Port (who doesn't want hazelnuts, toffee and dried fruit flavors from their Tawny?!)

At the dinner Nuno gave us a rundown on the various regions in Portugal, how the climate and terroir impact the viticultural conditions that allow certain varietals to thrive, et. al. (Yes, I was in my happy place, gleefully unaware what was happening up the street at Fenway!) The thing to remember is Portuguese wines are made of native grape varietals - like those outlined above - you've likely never heard of. Don't think of that as intimidating or too foreign. Winemakers are following Nuno's lead, making these foreign-sounding wines approachable in the way they taste. The fact that our economy is so tough right now and the price of these wines is still amazingly "right" for the time being makes this a great place to explore. Much like the Languedoc in France offers a better price point for winelovers of the Southern Rhone (because these wines are less sought given historical winemaking practices), Portugal offers value wines that are complex, interesting and - delicious!

At the start of the evening Marcio Ferreira of ViniPortugal told us his organization's goal is to reinforce a favorable image of Portuguese wines. In speaking with Nuno, I learned just how tightly-knit their community is; fortunately, innovation, forsight and exceptional winemaking like Nuno's makes Marcio's job that much easier. They are all in it together!

Want to see for yourself? Head over to the Harvard Club tomorrow night and then report back your own findings by commenting below!

Much sadness: Oregon Pinot Pioneer Dies

Perhaps like you, earlier this week I learned the father of Pinot Noir in Oregon, David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards, passed away at the young age of 69. If you're familiar with the book Judgement of Paris or recently caught the Indie Film "Bottle Shock" you know a few Americans in the '70s went "to the mattresses" to prove the quality of New World wines, as compared with those in the Old World.  The story of their dramatic debut on the world's wine stage is noteworthy for many reasons. But first, in my mind, is what had to happen before they took their wines overseas. First they had to have the fire in the belly and the chutzpa to act: pioneers who took great risk in what Was Done and what was Not Done, to give birth to a much larger, global and hugely profitable industry.

David Lett was one of these men. In 1970 he and his wife planted the first Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir vines in the Willamette Valley, Oregon. (Today many of you appreciate the Willamette as the top Pinot Noir-producing region in the Pacific Northwest.) Just nine years later Lett showed his '75 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir in Paris at the Wine Olympiad, earning top praise and notoriety. The next year he did the same in Burgundy.

Today the rest is history, with 300 wineries in the Willamette alone producing tasty Pinot offerings. They pay homage to "Papa Pinot" Lett. And so should we all this sad week in particular. Appropriately, Mr. Lett's sons Jim and Jason (now lead in the fields and in the cellar) and his wife Diana plan to celebrate his life after the fall harvest.

What's your experience with Eyrie or Oregon Pinot? How are you taking this week's news?

Wines for fall: Mmmm... Malbec

I spend a lot of time in the shop hanging out in our Argentine/Spanish section. Not only do our customers gravitate to that area, but I found my first bottle of love from a non-US producer in that aisle: (Altos de las Hormigas) Malbec. I was hesitant to talk about Malbec in my mini series, Wines for Fall, because there are other grape varietals (e.g. Petite Verdot, Petite Sirah) that are lesser known and lesser consumed, but no less worthy of our attention this time of year. But I realized there was no real reason to keep my personal favorite off the list - and at least once a week I introduce a customer to a bottle of Malbec, so that proves there are still some grasshoppers out there who need to know of this magical varietal!

Malbec is THE Argentine (red) grape of mass export to the US. (I tried to find the exact figure to back this up, but was unable to do so! Please feel free to comment below if you know the answer...). When I was first introduced to Malbec some years ago it was considered an 'up and coming' project in Argentina. The vines were still young (not that they aren't still now, but every year helps!) and so lacked depth, concentration and, key word, ripe berry fruit. The wines tended toward the more vegetal, or "green" flavor profile as a result. As a new wine-exporting/producing nation, there also existed a natural lack of funding, interest (from winemakers and consumers across the globe) and modern technology. These facts could make finding truly phenomenal Malbec a bit more of a challenge. In just the last 10-15 years or so however, the funding is there, Mendoza is better known and appreciated for its happy climate to grow Malbec, and even curious winemakers from all over the world are happy to jump on a plane and get in the fray.

The result? Malbecs of many shapes and sizes are in the US market offering a range of tremendous flavor.

I find it thrilling to help others navigate this range of possibilities. The undercurrant to Malbec tends to be: dark fruits (like the plumbs or blackberries you often find in Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot); spice (sometimes simply black pepper, other times more exotic spices you may play with in the kitchen); earth (think outdoors, woodsy, wet soil or even a touch of saddle leather); gentle grip (not too dry, but evident tannin); and solid acidity (mouthwatering & food-friendly). What makes each (good, non-vegetal or bell-pepper tasting) Malbec fun to expore is which of these elements is/are more evidant and - most important - what role the winemaker has played in coaxing a truly lushy, soft, velvety (or not) mouthfeel.

I've come to know and love the softer, lusher Malbecs (Melipal makes a great example); the earthier style (I'm a fan of Nieto Rsv Malbec); or the berry-forward, unreserved, slightly more rustic basic level offerings like Altos las Hormigas (their Reserva is definitely bigger, bolder and more lush than their $10/bottle offering).

As for the Fall connection? Let's turn to food pairings, of course! But, wait, what's my rule of thumb on this again? Look to the culture from whence the wine came! So, let's also not forget Argentines consumes a LOT of beef. Throw that herb-encrusted steak on the grill and, well, I think your inner child will have no choice but to emerge. Then again... anything on the grill makes Malbec a great choice. Whenever I host a BBQ, I have a case on hand. Malbecs are approachable yet intriguing and ever-so worthy of grilled fare.

What's your favorite Argentine Malbec of choice? Or do you head to France, where this grape got its start, for a Cahors selection?

Z-Why Yes!-Gelt

Ok, so it isn't really spelled that way.... But it certainly makes me want to run out and get some! Zweigelt, that is, a little Austrian red wine goodness that's perfect for this time of year.  (It's said Z-vye-gelt, if my title was of no use to you this delightful, holiday Monday!) What? Austrian wine? WHAT?!

Yes. Austria! I'm too young (if I do say so for myself) to really remember the (drinking) days when Austrian wine was a horrifying "No, No" - and, frankly, my experience with Austrian gastronomy has only been pure pleasure. (Who doesn't love herb-encrusted game? Cured meats? Hard cheeses? And delicious, oh-so-delicious, sweets!) I think of the Alps, the fascinating history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and those fine foods before I recall Austria has had its sad disaster of a period in modern wine making history.

To refresh your memory, Austria used to be known for its sweet wines. Things only got tricky in 1985 when a group of corrupt wine brokers tried to salvage poor harvests by adding diethylene glycol (found in antifreeze, no joke...) to the wines to increase the sweetness and then, worse, sell these wines as legit for a decent profit. I think NOT! Well, it didn't work out so well for these greedy businessmen; but it did ultimately work out well for serious winemakers. Austria can now boast the strictest wine laws in the world. And that's saying something when you recall the restrictions offered up in France and Italy, for example.  It also allowed serious winemakers to refocus their energies on making truly fabulous, dry wines.

Austria may still churn out 80% white wines (Gruner Veltliner is the major player on the white stage), but their reds are something to behold, too. Zweigelt is a test tube baby, or a man-made hybrid of St. Laurent (Austrian clone of Pinot Noir) and Blaufrankish. Why man-made? Well, Pinot Noir/St. Laurent is a tricky, tricky grape to grow because it is so delicate and, therefore, suseptible to so many different vineyards pests (bugs and birds alike), climatic challenges (frost, heat, hail, etc.) and even the human touch.  Zweigelt is less prone to frost, bud-breaks later and becomes a more mature fellow (ripens) earlier in the season. This is a godsend in Austria where the weather is a bit, shall we say... chilly?

Zweigelt is a white and red wine drinkers happiness. And it is perfect this time of year when you are thinking about the light fruitiness of Gamay (aka Beaujolais) and want something with a bit more character for both a warm day and cooler evening. The best part is that Austrian wines can be very reasonably priced - they do, afterall, have to redeem themselves in the global market!

If this is a new grape to you, try the Sepp Moser Zweigelt. It should retail for about 10 bones. It delivers cranberry and cherry fruit right up front and center stage. It can be a little on the tart side on the back palate and as it finishes, but I don't mind it (and I usually do!). The flavors in this little wine gets me excited about fireplaces and Thanksgiving dinner to come!

Are you a Zweigelt lover? Have you gotten (back) on the Austrian wine bandwagon?

Label Love

magnifying glass

Everyone encounters random, sometimes juicy, sometimes humorous, sometimes head-scratching tidbits in their line of work.  Often enough these little gems are in one ear and out the other - or at least you move on to the next thing, filing that piece of information in some magical place in your brain. What we often take for granted is when these gems actually might have relevance, or interest for other people. Case in point: I've been having a blast preparing for an upcoming, private wine tasting party where cool blends will be featured. A friend of mine met me for lunch mid-preparation and I was just bursting with excitement about this that and the other thing. (Finding out a wine's story, or conjuring my own fantasies based on my gut reaction to tasting a wine is like catnip to me!)  At one point my friend looked at me with a smile playing on her lips and said: Well, if you ever forget the exact percentage of which varietal goes into the wine, you can always just look on the label!

I smiled at her practicality and then started to laugh a bit, too. I've learned this is a very American thought.

Turns out Americans are the ones who like to know the who, what, where, when and why of it all. Perhaps other cultures are similar. But my experience is this is distinctly American - and winemakers overseas go just batty with our concern with such details (when it comes to wine, anyway). If you've noticed, Old World producers aren't quick to make a wine label particularly discerning in terms of which grape(s) actually went into the bottle. If anything, their wine laws somewhat prohibit giving up the goods, if you will, preventing them from even putting the name of the varietal used in the wine if it comes from a certified area (e.g. AOC, in France).  (Labeling is actually a total nightmare given all of the moving parts and import/export regulations that vary globally.)

With the American movement to find out every bloody ingredient in everything you consume, winemakers will have their work cut out for them. I mean, most people don't realized that fining/filtering a wine is often done with egg whites, let alone all of the other scientifically orchestrated additives that go into creating a stable wine. (I've got a sensitive stomach and I'm all for them given the alternative!)

Perhaps not a late-breaking news item for all of you, I realized this week perhaps more of you are like my wine-drinking friend out there and haven't heard the latest in wine labeling....  Bonny Doon announced last January it was coming clean. They are listing all of the ingredients in two Demeter certified wines they now produce.

Will Boon Doon start a new trend in wine labeling? Or is it time to put away the magnifying glass and just enjoy the juice?

Wines for Fall, aka Wine Blogging Wednesday

Once again I find myself scribing another Wine Blogging Wednesday post so quickly, it feels, since the last. Fortunately this month's theme does not stray beyond the parameters of my own Wine Wednesday series of late: Wines for Fall. Russ at Winehiker Witiculture is October's host. Given his passion for the great outdoors and wine, it is no surprise he chose a linking theme: "Which wine will you pour in the great outdoors?" This may be the first theme I didn't even think twice about. For me, the Great Outdoors means a nice bike ride, a grassy knoll and  - if my romantic destiny is every fulfilled - a picnic blanket (with some fall leaves scattered here and there) and a bit of sweet bubbly.

Brachetto d'Aqui is one of the greatest forms of bubbly I have encountered. These wines, named for the grape used (brachetto) and the area from which they hail (the Piedmont, Italy DOCG, Asti), are perfect "Picnic Wines". Just two weeks ago I was sharing this theory of mine with a couple of colleagues. They couldn't have agreed more as we tasted Garitina's 2007 Brachetto d'Aqui release. And we thought 2006 was a good year for this wine. Hello, fresh, ripe, red raspberries and strawberries! Tiny, tiny, bubbles that funnel up to your nose bringing scents of baby roses and violets? Check! Mouthwatering acidity? Check! Gentle tannins to coax your desire for a gorgeous brunch spread?? Check! A sweetness that simply satisfies you??? CHECK!

I don't think Carrie ever unpopped the cork of this small production (aka special) wine with Mr. Big, Miranda, Charlotte or Samantha - but at least one of them should have. Lightly sweet, pink bubbly is the absolute perfect thing when a picnic blanket, red berries, peach tarts, marscapone or pastries are involved. Chocolate, well, now there's a match made in heaven, too. Friends or lovers could actually be considered optional it is so charming all on its own.

User-friendly tips: A traditional "champagne" cork is NOT used for this wine, much like the Moscato d'Asti I blogged about last WBW re: wine & politics. So make sure you have your corkscrew on hand. Champagne flutes are necessary only if you feel so compelled - no need to run out and buy any.

What's your outdoor wine of choice this fall?

wine & baseball?

Red Sox fans were so wrapped up in ending the 86-year Championship drought back in 2004 everyone had some "thing" they were doing to keep the Hope alive and end The Curse. The team was taking a (group) shot of Jack before each World Series game. For me it was wearing different red and navy gear and watching the game at a different bar each night. Since we were moving venues with great regularity and - let's face it - wine options were pathetic and/or scare, I did my part to "rehydrate" the Sox (if you will) by consuming noteworthy quantities of Hoegaarden beer. I ate a lot of french fries, too, but that wasn't as intentional. When we won again last year I was happily consuming the 2005 Winner's Tank Shiraz. That selection was too perfect. I only happened to grab that bottle out of my wine fridge because it was a solid pairing with our meal that night. The fact that we won in only 3 games, well, who could have guessed? But I do believe the Winner's Tank contributed in spirit to our glorious victory.

As we are revving up for a fight against Tampa Bay (or so I hope) in the ALDS finals I've been contemplating what truly is the best pairing.  As I said, I'm not wholly committed to the idea that wine and baseball are the best pairing, despite last year's go. My second question is what do you drink in anticipation of greatness (or at least a hell of a good fight)? Yes, folks, herein lies my greater quandry.... Should such things even be planned? I may be a Virgo, but I do realize there can be a Planning Line.

What's your wine & baseball philosophy? Are they a match?