Beaujolais Nouveau release at Midnight tonight!

Before Harry Potter book signing parties, there were other parties, wine parties, that came more frequently than those of the Harry Potter variety. They came every 3rd Thursday in November to be precise. And the tradition lives on.... Just one week before Thanksgiving stacks of the colorful Georges Duboeuf's famous Beaujolais Nouveau are sent out to wine shops from Beaujolais, France (think Southern Burgundy where Pinot Noir thrives). Wondered what it is? Beaujolais is a wine made from a grape called Gamay. The Nouveau style is made through a fermentation process called carbonic maceration and is released super-duper fresh, i.e. from harvest to bottle to market within mere weeks! It is intended consumers drink this wine young, and certainly no longer than 6 months. Why? Well, Gamay is a low-tannin varietal, which makes it optimal for those who prefer a light-styled, fruity, fruity wine. But even with it's naturally high acidity (another "age-worthy" component for wine), the fact that the wine goes through carbonic maceration hurts the wine's natural ability to age.

The hoopla of this catch-and-release process began in the late 1800s. Locals recognized this light-styled red wine was perfect for the transition between seasons and the unofficial 'switch' from white to red wine drinking - and they made a party of it (just imagine! pitchers of wine from the barrels were on offer!!) while the more grand Beaujolais wines were still working their mojo and evolving. The French government decided to reign in the revelry a little bit in 1938 and then in 1951 declared the "3rd Thursday in November" rule.

I don't mean to mislead you, however. Georges Duboeuf isn't the only producer of Beauojolais Nouveau; he's just the most famous because he produces so much of the stuff. Regardless who's Nouveau you select to sip, expect tooty-fruity red berry flavors. It's not my bag, though I have come to appreciate Beaujolais/Gamay when on offer from one of the premiere villages where the wine hasn't been quite as fast-tracked, e.g. Moulin-a-Vent, Morgon, Fleurie and Brouilly. Those wines tend to offer a bit more complexity - a touch of earth, a touch more depth, and a touch of tannin to offset all of that boisterous fruit! Their light style, much like Pinot Noir, is indeed a great complement to your turkey dinner.

So the question is... will you Nouveau?

wine buying "power"

I was raised in a family where asking someone about finances - or their buying power - might be considered a little too forward. But one of the most helpful questions I've learned to ask a customer searching for the "perfect" bottle is "how much do you want to spend?". I'm sure I've said it before: there is a ton of great juice on the market. Knowing how much someone wants to spend helps me narrow the playing field and help them find a great bottle to suit the occasion. Often I meet people who know they want to bring a bottle to dinner, but feel uncomfortable with wine and don't feel they know what is an appropriate amount for a "good" bottle of wine for X occasion. A good salesperson will be able to steer you in the right direction - without making you feel uncomfortable. But failing that ideal experience, here are a few things to consider when shopping (particularly given the economic climate and the upcoming holidays).

1. You don't have to spend a small fortune to select a solid offering. If you know what's being served for dinner, or if you don't, offer up that information to the salesperson, too. The right grape varietal/blend will more often "make or break" the gesture, not how much you spent.

2. Even as the Holidays approach and you are looking for a "nice" bottle of wine, remember a lot of great bottles can be found under $20. But whenever you are shopping, give your sales person a $5 price range to play with - e.g. $12 - $17, $15-20, $30 - $35. Whatever. Know how much you DON'T want to spend given your budget and be/get comfortable telling the salesperson that figure.

3. As the economy hits the crapper, I've met more and more people who are expanding their wine budgets and contracting their going out budgets. In the scheme of things, your entire evening is more cost-efficient. (Remember: you spend much more for an average bottle of wine when out at a restaurant than retail.) It can be just as fun (and perhaps more rewarding?) to explore a new bottle of wine at a slightly higher price as it is to go out on the town.

In the end, embrace your buying power. Explore wines on offer at a variety of price points as you see fit! You will likely find some "treats" at a higher price, but just as likely stumble on some good old fashioned comfort-sipping, too.

What's your wine buying rationale these days? Have your habits changed with the economy?

women, wine and... their kids

preganancy and wine...

Ever since I can remember, the women in my life abstained from alcohol during pregnancy for fear of fetal alcohol syndrome. Everyone I interacted with knew a simple fact: too much is too much. As my female friends and colleagues have started to have kids more recently though, the question of whether a glass of wine "on occasion" would cause irreparable damage has generated debate. Heck, at nearly every baby shower I've been to in the last five years, the topic of what to eat/drink and what to avoid altogether comes up. Even the men I know struggle with these issues as, in solidarity with their pregnant wives, they too are impacted by the question of what behaviors will harm or benefit their unborn children. What's tricky is everyone's doctor seems to have a different take - and socially it is/has been unequivocally TABOO to do so. This week Wine Spectator took additional care to publicize an interesting study on this very topic of alcohol consumption during pregnancy. Researchers in Britain found some alcohol was OK during pregnancy - and (through what I think is fairly inconclusive evidence) stated "their children performed better three years after birth when compared to children of women who did not drink at all". I invite you to read the full article here and then let us know what you think.

It seems to me if some alcohol is fine, it could be a dangerous conclusion for folks who may not know when "some" becomes just too much. (And, come on... I do not think that alcohol consumption during pregnancy is the reason these kids performed better. It's called other environmental factors, people!)

What's your take? Do you believe women can safely drink during pregnancy?

Wines for Fall: The sweeter finds (and Wine Blogging Wednesday)!

A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a rare treat in the larger wine world, particularly here in North America: Pineau des Charentes. When I saw that Joe the #1 Wine Dude had expanded this month's Wine Blogging Wednesday theme (maderized dessert wines) to include fortified wines, well, it was all I could do to hold off all reports on this fabulous little dessert/aperitif-perfect-for-apple-pie-or-in-front-of-the-fire-or-before-a-chic-meal find! Pineau des Charetes is made from 2/3 unfermented must of fresh grapes and (drum roll please!) 1/3 COGNAC. This is my paradise.

Old wives tales (or perhaps actual history) has it this fun beverage was created by mistake. How so? Well, apparently a grower back in the 16th Century poured grape must (the juice, skins, stems...) into a barrel that already contained Cognac (brandy). The barrel was out of sight/mind for another 5 years or so until a huge harvest came in and additional barrels were needed. Soon enough, the concoction was discovered. The stuff tasted so darn good - fruity, sweet, yet lighter and not cloying in texture - the folks in Charentes, France perfected the process and began peddling it to eager consumers.

This aperitif thrills me for a number of reasons. First, it is a rare find here in the United States. Somehow, the masses have failed to catch on to the glory that is this sweet, little libation. Second, most producers have not chosen to make Pineau, considering it a mere byproduct of Cognac; they simply use Ugni Blanc grapes, which is also used in the production of Cognac. Among those who do make Pineau part of their repertoire, the best wines are made from the freshest (read: from field to barrel in a single day), hand-picked grapes. Only by hand-picking can they know the moment when full maturity is acheived, when the golden grapes turn to a deep topaz color and, for the red wines, when the black grapes turn from crimson to brown.

Pineau des Charentes is often found at 18% alcohol - the optimal level. It must remain in bottle for at least one year before it is sold (and often the best producers wait as much as five years before releasing it). As I alluded above, Pineau is offered in Or (white) or Ruby (red) varieties. In the case of the Ruby, Cabernet, Cab Franc or Merlot varietals are used.

If you've never enjoyed Pineau before or after a meal, please do. You are missing out! For those who don't prefer overly sweet dessert wines, this should be a good fit. Pineau certainly can accompany a little pastry, tart, or ice cream dessert. But it is also delightful with foie gras, oysters, poached fish, goat cheese, Roquefort and even fine game. (Use your gut instinct on which - red or white - variety pairs best with each of these suggestions.) Just avoid consuming Pineau with any 'strong' flavored sauces or dishes, even as simple as olives. It'll taste a little funkity funk....

For Wine Blogging Wednesday I served the Domaine du Perat Or with apple pie two weeks ago. The fruits in the Perat were reminiscent of stewed peaches and ripe apricots. But it also offered a depth of flavors you'll find reminiscent of cognac (burnt caramel nuttiness) - without the burn.  Serve chilled, for optimal flavors.

I'm curious how well received Pineau still is in France these days... do you know? If you're from North America, is this post a throw back to days of old for you? Or is Pineau de Charentes a new one on you?

On wine bars...

Ok, readers! Buckle up, because here IT is.... Over the weekend I was in NYC visiting my sister and some friends. Saturday night we headed out for a somewhat low-key night of good old fashioned catching up. After we wrapped up our meal, we decided to check out one of the 3 different wine bars that has popped up in my sister's neighborhood in recent months. It was a great scene - low lighting, a phenomenally long, graceful bar, terrific bar snacks, a loungey thing going around us and in a back room....

But come on people, if you are going to be a wine bar, how about a little bit of diversity on your wine list?!

Let's reflect: wine bars seem to be all the rage, cropping up like wildfires. Any good business person should know the key to success (in a saturated market) is doing something that sets you apart from the competition. I get that and embrace it. By nature the wine world is quite diverse, regionally, varietally, etc. so already proprietors should have quite a bit to work with. I simply do not understand why it seems so many wine bars are actually doing the same thing: offering a very narrow wine list and then pretending they don't. It's like going to a martini bar and only seeing one brand of gin (re: white wine) and two brands of vodka (read: red wine).

This particular bar started out on the right foot. Their initial list of wines was categorized as "Under $40". That worked for me. There were a few red, white and bubbly options from around the world. But as soon as I turned the page, nearly all the wines listed were Italian. The "International Wines" section offered 5 wines total, 3 from Spain, 1 from Australia and 1 from France. It's one thing if you are going to be an Italian Wine Bar. It's another if you are going to mostly be an Italian wine bar and then pretend you're not.

It drives me crazy! At least let me know what you are about at the outset and promote accordingly. Then I can make a decision on whether your scene makes up for the fact that I'm in a French wines mood and only Italians are on offer.

Harrumph.

Am I alone in this frustration? What are you hoping for from your "Wine Bar" experience?

Election week Libations: what were you drinking?

Read all about it!

I've scoured the wine mags to find something - an event, a headline, an image - anything in the wine world more compelling than this week's elections for the next US President. I was briefly entertained by The Cellarist article on "Wine States". But as far as entertaining news or events in the wine world you might be interested in this post-Election Friday - in comparison - I am nonplussed. So rather than bring you some unenthusiastic post summarizing the latest in scientific wine news (like wine might prevent dementia or that Florida introduced a new table grape to the market) or talk about the latest in wine business/economics (e.g. the Chateau Montelena sale fell through this week), I'm going to give you the floor.

Whether you are happy, upset, hopeful or scared in the post-election days, I have a feeling you were drinking something Tuesday night. This is your moment, ye closet-blog readers! Tell us about your own private event on Election night, however large or small.

What were you drinking in anticipation of The End of An Era? (Bonus points given for those who were drinking something with a clever/thematic name; double points if your comment offers tasting notes, too.)

Wines for Fall, Portuguese style...

Stumbled across a wine lately that sang a familiar tune but offered  s o   m u c h   m o r e  than the same old same old? I find this happens when I least expect it - and often enough when the grapes involved in the winemaking process are local, or native to the area from whence they're grown.  We talked about Zweigelt from Austria not that long ago. We also talked about the fun I had at the ViniPortugal wine dinner I attended. Perhaps one day we'll also talk about wines from Hungary.  Each of these parts of the world offer tremendous value and a chance to tromp, ok - taste, through local offerings you likely can't pronounce. (Fortunately you don't have to be able to say the grapes' name to enjoy the wine!)

Today I want to introduce you to (or remind you about) a big white perfect for fall - or even one that can carry you through the winter! It is the (drum roll please!) 2007 Esporao Reserva White.  This wine makes me want to crank out pot after pot of butternut squash soup and pan after pan of roast chicken with fresh herbs (and garlic). The winemaker blends three grapes: Arintho (which you know I just adore for it's fresh minerality); Roupiero; and Antao Vaz. Half of the grapes are fermented in stainless steel and the other half in American oak. When the winemaker is satisfied, all three are blended together. Remember that the Esporao enterprise operates out of the Aletejo region, which is in the Southcentral part of Portugal where it is dry and hot. Such conditions are perfect for growing ripe, ripe grapes. This means the fruit in the wine is front and center, doing a happy little dance in your glass.

From the Esporao Rsv White, expect peach and melon fruit, terrific minerality and a robust, full-figured wine with very round edges. You may even be tempted to think of this wine as a slightly more interesting Chardonnay, without overbearing oak but a creaminess that simply delights your taste buds.  Go ahead... step outside your usual wine-buying habits and pick up a bottle! This wine surely offers a fun spin on something comfortingly familiar.

What's the last bottle you enjoyed for its familiarity - but complexity?

a could-be conundrum: cooking with wine

I realized it was time to get back in the Entertaining Saddle as soon as the Red Sox lost the ALCS. Football is great, don't get me wrong, but we're only talking about 2 days of Go Time each week. And with my favorite cooking magazine, Eating Well,  bursting with fall/harvest/pre-holiday recipes for easy entertaining, the only thing left for me to do was call up some friends. Saturday night I laid out a feast. My guests were delighted with the Aged Mahon cheese (drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with thyme), sliced, marinated salami and mixed olives I set out to wet their appetites; they were equally intrigued by and happy with the Lambrusco I paired accordingly (sweet and salty are always a safe bet!). Meanwhile, I was putting the final touches on the main course in the kitchen - pork loin with roasted grape sauce. I'm not one of those entertainer types who has to know a recipe before I introduce it to my guests. I just give it a shot and see how it goes, pairing the wine I think best. Fortunately my friends are of a similar mind and so happy 'guinea pigs'.

But when it comes to cooking with wine, sometimes recipes can be difficult to discern. The recipe for the grape sauce called for either Madeira or dry, white wine. Madeira is a fortified wine, with varying levels of sweetness and nutty characteristics. Dry, white wine is the exact opposite. Since I wasn't exactly sure what the grape sauce would turn out like - a lighter but flavorful sauce or a rich gravy - making the decision was that much harder. I consulted with my fellow wine buyer. And he made a brilliant recommendation: use an old, dry white wine. Because old white wines develop a kind of richer, nuttier almost dessert-like quality due to excessive oxidation, I would essentially split the difference of the wine recommendations in the recipe. I unearthed a bottle of 2002 Sauvignon Blanc from a case of wine that had gotten lost in the bowels of the shop. And it was perfect!

While I extrapolated from the recipe to find a good answer, I still stand by the most important rule of thumb when it comes to cooking with wine. ONLY cook with wine you would be happy to drink, too. (In fact, I have a fabulous Birthday card on my fridge that reiterates the point perfectly. It says "I love cooking with wine...sometimes I even put it in the food!". ) Did I taste the wine before I poured it into my sauce? Absolutely. Old wine won't hurt you. And in the case of white wine, it just tastes sweet as it ages. Could I have had a glass? Sure! It was reminiscent of creme brulee, in fact. But we had my homemade apple crumble pie on hand for dessert so I passed this time....

What wine cooking conundrums have you encountered? How have you solved them?

Halloween Pour Favor style: Frightful wine news

frankenstein

This wine-lover may hate to dress up for Halloween (it's just not her thang!), but she does have an eye for the more frightful wine headlines of late. Check out this devil of a line up! We've talked about Chinese Tiger wines... now we may be talking about the flavor profile of wines that spent time in Chinese oak barrels. No joke, the Tonelería Magreñán coooperage in La Rioja, Spain took a little trip to China and came back glowing with the prospect of making barrels from Chinese oak, Quercus Mongolicus. More precisely, this oak comes from a forest in Mongolia that is actually two times the size of Spain. Apparently this oak is not for the faint-hearted! No one yet knows what this oak will really offer... Are you scared at the prospect? Or are you all for further advancements/changes in the wine-producing world?

Next up we have a sad, but no less frightening story of life and death. Have you ever made your own wine? If not but you are an aspiring winemaker, experience shows you must ventilate the fermentation area!  Two friends helping an amateur winemaker died recently due to Carbon Dioxide poisoning.  Check out the story for yourself here.

Our final report on this Halloween day is about dear Dr. Frankenstein, who has been at it again.  Or well, at least another celebrity wine monster has been created... Routers reported on Tuesday that "Sopranos Wines are being produced under a licensing agreement between the TV network HBO and New-York based Vesuvio Import Company. The wines will be distributed by Duggan's Distillers Products Corp." Yep! That's Vesuvio as in the name of the restaurant from the series we all came to know so well. Clever perhaps. But do you think the wine will be worth any snuff?

Wines for fall: don't forget about white blends!

White wines aren't just a summer thang. (One of the best turkey wines is actually Pinot Gris from Alsace or Oregon!) And this time of year it can be really fun to expand your white wine horizons by looking into fabulous white blends. Think of old favorites like Evolution 9. Conundrum. Luna Freakout. The list goes on and on! The trick is finding fun white blends that have a little extra oomph to get you through the colder nights. A little residual sugar might not hurt either (think Anne Amie Cuvee Amrit!). Since last week we talked about the awsome red blend SNAFU put out by the Local Wine Company, its only fair for me to let you in on the goodness that is their white wine blend: '06 JuneHog Oregon White. Yum. Oh wait, but I'm getting a bit ahead of myself...

Ever heard of Mueller Thurgau? Mueller is another one of the man-made varietals we've talked about lately. Back in the late 19th Century Dr. Thurgau created this hybrid varietal. His goal was to create a grape with the intensity of Riesling but with the ability to ripen earlier; he used Sylvaner to achieve the latter.  He didn't quite get an A+ on his project, but he didn't do too badly either. Mueller wines are fruity, but low in acidity. They are medium sweet, too, and very smooth.  This varietal makes up the greatest component of the JuneHog, coming in at 33% of the wine's juice.

The next largest component of the JuneHog is Gewurtztraminer, or the "spicy white grape" that actually got its start in Traminer, Italy, but happens to have a German name. Go figure! Gewurtz is sweet, spicy, fruity, full-figured and has gorgeous floral aromas. (Trade "secret": Gewurtz is actually sweeter than Riesling!) This grape brings 22% of the juice to the JuneHog blend.

The third largest component of this fun blend is Pinot Gris (21%). Recall from earlier posts Pinot Gris is the genetic mutant of Pinot Noir. Alsatian-style Pinot Gris is full bodied and offers ripe-fruit sweetness on the palate.  These wines are down right lovely on their own, let alone in a blend!

Pinot Blanc clocks in at 16% of the June Hog blend, which gets finished off with just a touch of Riesling (5%, if I've done the math right). I'm not sure how much time we've spent on Pinot Blanc together. But the thing to know is when winemakers don't oak it, or stir it on the lees or otherwise "interfere" with it, PB offers terrific apple and almond flavors. As such, it can be one of the softest yet lightest (read: high acid) white wines on offer. A treat on their own and perhaps even better in some blends.

What do all these various components mean for the JuneHog experience? Let's put it this way: this is the wine I want to drink on a cool fall day when I'm sitting in my Adirondack chair on some beach or even on my front porch - glass of wine in hand, a blanket at the ready and my book propped on my lap. Something mouthfilling yet clean you don't have to think twice to enjoy. Warm sun, crisp air, relaxation. (Snacks optional - but with this wine you won't go wrong with the pairing you choose!)

What's your favorite fall white (blend) this year?