The wine week in review

Some people hate holiday shopping. I, for one, love it. It's not the shopping part per se I like so much. It is the coming up with creative ideas to touch the hearts of the people in your life that's fun. I like giving more than receiving (though that has some perks, too). For those on a lower budget or who prefer the nod of something clever to something pricey, think about this idea (care of the New York Times) for the wine lover in your life.

For those on a much higher budget or those who prefer to give to charity, there are always holiday wine auctions. You too could be the lucky owner of something like a Doris Duke collectable: 1921 Ch. d'Yquem! For spirits lovers, there always unique finds like the 1788 Tour D'Argent Cognac. (LOL)

Better yet, for those on planet earth who like to be 100% absolutely convinced they've found THE perfect wine gift (or bottle to celebrate the New Year), don't forget about Saturday's 2nd Annual "Boisterous About Bubbles" Sparkling Wine Tasting at Ball Square Fine Wines in Somerville. Rumor has it not one, not two, not three, BUT FOUR tables will be uncorking several bottles of bubbly to delight you. Truly. If you don't know what Growers Champagne is (and why it is SO darn delicious) or are a little fuzzy on the finer points of sparkling wines from around the world, you MUST attend this soiree. This is a 1-of-a-Kind opportunity I give to you, reader. Tasting is believing. Don't miss out!

In all seriousness, which wine gift ideas are you toying with this holiday season?

What to do with leftover bubbly

Graduation season is in full swing throughout the country. No doubt corks are flying as years of hard work are celebrated and new adventures anticipated. But what to do with left over bubbly? We often think of sparkling wine as a special commodity not for everyday buying. So when purchasing a bottle (whether actual Champagne, a domestic effort or some other country's fine offering) we are remiss to waste it. But we all know sparkling doesn't hold up so well overnight. The wine simply cannot deliver the same experience on Day 2. Or can it?

Pop over to Wicked Local today to learn all about what to do with your leftovers this celebratory season. You certainly don't want to miss what Rachel Nason from Brookline-based D'Lish Intimate Catering has up her sleeve!

Then, chime in here with your own ideas!

Good old fashioned, mezmerizing Wine writing (and more)

I tried to write a novel a few years ago. Unfortunately I discovered I don't have the patience to develop characters in that special way that sucks you in and devotes you to their trials and tribulations and celebrations as if they were your real-life friends. Any wine writer who can do that to me is Prime Rib, or perhaps more appropriately, a glass of truly tremendous Growers Champagne. I've had the uncommon pleasure of "drinking" my Growers Champagne, if you will, at the pen of two different writers, given two very different wine context in the last week and a half alone.

The first are the fabulous duo from the Wall Street Journal, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher. True, this is not the first time I have sung their praises. But usually I talk about their content, not their writing style. This week I read just the first few lines of their article and had to save it for later - like a much anticipated dessert. If you have not yet read their "Rails, Romance and Really Good Wine" article, you must. Romance, indeed. I aspire to such greatness.

The second is Deborah Haro, of the absolutely amazing Taberna de Haro of Brookline. If you want a good read, simply get your hands on her wine list. There are other truly savory things about Taberna de Haro, but I'll be getting to that in a future Wicked Local article. In the meantime, hussle over to Taberna to enjoy another tantalizing read (and meal!).

For those of you less interested in the romance of wine reading, but perhaps intrigued by broken hearts (or is that hearts rewarded? tough to say...) check out what Parisians have been up to to keep economically afloat. Bitter sweet, I suppose....

Which wine lists have you encountered that are simply a lovely read?

a bit (more) on bubbly: marketing musings

Happy New Year! I hope you enjoyed a great bit of bubbly - whether Cava, Prosecco, Champagne, domestic sparkling or what have you - to ring in 2009. I have to admit, I'm a little sad the holidays are behind us. I did quite some damage enjoying bubbly from almost every wine-producing continent throughout December. And in so doing, I rejoiced in and fully celebrated just how great, food-friendly and versatile it is. My New Year's resolution might just include drinking at least one bottle each month of the year (not necessarily by myself or all at once, mind you). Ah, yes... I like this idea! What with all my bubbly enjoyment these last several weeks I couldn't help but muse the Marketing Giant that is the word, the region, and the renowned sparkler: Champagne. Just think of it! No other wine region in France, or really elsewhere, has the panache that Champagne does. No other wine seems to have inspired so many other styles of or takes on sparkling. No other wine says "sophistication" like Champagne. How does such a small-production entity (only 12% of sparkling wine worldwide) manage to capture the hearts/minds of so many people worldwide?

The short answer is History. Champagne got its real start via endorsements from royalty. In one example, Cristal was actually created for Czar Alexander II of Russia 1876 by Louis Roederer. Back then Russia was one of the highest export markets for the House. Of course, when the Czar found out he was drinking the same bubbly as his court he was a little peeved. Cristal became a special bottling, so named for the special lead crystal bottle it was distributed in. Meanwhile, an emerging middle class seeking a taste of how the other half lived, became more active consumers (albeit, not of Cristal, per se). And so it goes... Today, we simply seek out satisfying Champagnes to toast (and sip).

As someone who appreciates and enjoys many of the offerings coming from throughout France (and elsewhere), I can't help but wonder if any other region in the world will develop such a following. What will drive that new success? How about bizarre or clever tools now at play in the trade as a whole? Are they 'enough' to put a small producer or small producing region permanently on the map?

While I was contemplating this particular question, my stream-of-consciousness reminded me of a trade professional who tried to convince me of the marketability of aluminum last summer. I'm sorry to say, you may be able to drop the can of wine on the floor and merely dent it, but I don't think this will be the next great thing. I can even subscribe to the box wine phenomenon because of it's environmentally conscience and common sense-driven design. I'm largely a fan of screw caps. But aluminum? I'm sorry. No.

Over the holidays, my general musings about bubbly and marketing came full circle when I saw the biggest offender I've found on the market thus far: Francis Ford Coppola's Sophia Blanc de Blanc "mini"s. While this may be the wine of choice for sweet wine-interested consumers, could we please not sell it in a "convenient" can? Come on. A straw? For bubbly? This just hurts my feelings. It hurts history/tradition. For heaven's sake, there's no cork to pop! It only gets points for being offensively American. (If I were Madame Clicquot, I would actually turn in my grave.) Gnarly sweet and over-worked to boot, this wine gets my lowest rating: Humph!

Do you agree? What wine (marketing) faux pas did you encounter last year?

a bit on bubbly: Cava

Ever heard of Cristalino? What about Freixenet? These are just two Spanish bubbly offerings on the market, known as Cava, that come in under $10 at your local shop. The thing about Cava is it's not just cheap - it's tasty, too! Here are a few fun facts to get our conversation rolling today...

• Cava means cave, or cellar, in Catalan;
• More than 220 million bottles are sold each year;
• Four stars beneath the cork indicate it's D.O. authenticity;
• 95% of all Cava (and the best on offer) comes from Northern Spain's Penedes region;
• By law, any one (or blend) of five white grapes are permitted in Cava. The three most common are Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarello, with Chardonnay and Subrait (Malvasia) used on occasion.
• Less than 1% of all Cava is rose (in which case either Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha or Monastrell grapes are employed).
• And, the traditional method, or Methode Champenoise as we've already discussed, is used to create its lovely little bubbles!

Cava came into being in 1872 when Don Jose Raventos (head of bodega Codorniu) found himself tromping through Champagne, France and encountered their specialty for the first time. He was fascinated and became determined to produce a Spanish bubbly. But I find it delightfully refreshing Cava does not try to play second fiddle to its famous international counterpart. No, Sir!

For starters, the Penedes region is geographically and climatically very different than Champagne. They also use different grapes. Specifically, in Cava they use exclusively WHITE grapes, whereas in Champagne Pinot Noir is one of the 3 permitted varietals (and used often, at that). In Spain, the wine is aged for only 9 months on the lees (the dead yeast cells that give Champagne it's toasty character due to being aged on them for at least 15 months). The differences go on, but the important thing is the result: Cava is less nuanced, offering a simple, cheery, citrusy/fruity, high-acid alternative to Champagne.

For the record, while I have no problem popping a Cava cork for the sake of Cava drinking, I also have to say these wines really do work some additional magic when blended for your holiday brunch mimosa and the like. Their clean flavors (aka, fruity, lesser yeasty quality) don't compete with whatever other ingredients you're throwing together, instead adding a nice bit of lift to the festivities!

Of the three bubblies we've bantered about thus far, which is your preference? Champagne, Prosecco, or Cava?

Aperitifs: The oh-so Lovely Lillet

'Tis the season to be merry! And sometimes merriment is best facilitated by getting your guests in the mood for - in the immortal words of Seinfeld writers - Festivus! Last weekend I had the pleasure of pouring a few holiday libations for just such a purpose at a public tasting event. (I had what happens to be my favorite Champagne Rose on hand, Lillet and two different Ports on offer; oh yes, I was captain of the Fun Team!) Much to my amusement, the Lillet was the fan favorite. In part this was because it's an aperitif that's been around since dirt bringing back memories for many, and in part it's because it's just so interesting. Leave it to a monk, Father Kermann, to "invent" it back in the late 1800's in Pondesac, Bordeaux. Fermann was also a doctor/mixologist, creating elixirs and fortifiers using ingredients like quinine. Enter the burgeoning region of Bordeaux where crazy ingredients like star anise, brandy, cane sugar, et. al. were then descending from all over the world (China, Gascony, West Indies....) and our friend Fr. Kermann is one happy camper! From this epicenter of creativity and fine ingredients came Lillet.

But let's back up for a second... An aperitif is an alcoholic beverage meant to begin a meal. Literally, it gets consumers in the mood for food by stimulating the appetite. For me it's also one of those 'balms' I've mentioned of late that has a welcome touch of alcohol to take the edge off potentially uncomfortable social situations, or to otherwise just get people in the spirit of the occasion (pun intended). It also isn't so strong in taste it will kill the next libation's flavors (e.g. wine with the meal).

On the Lillet bottle it reads: "Since 1872". Apparently there is no official recipe they use to make it year after year, instead relying on each cuvee to dictate the outcome. And apparently in 1985 they revamped their overall approach to appeal to modern-day consumers. Once much more bitter and slightly more sweet in flavor, today the aperitif offers a tremendously floral bouquet with hints of apricots and honey - it reminds me (and others) of late harvest wines. From there it delivers a surprising minerality, and notes of slightly bitter orange peel and apricots. (Technically speaking, it is made from the white wine Bordeaux grapes Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and "fruit liquors" (15%). It is aged for 10 months (on average) in oak barrels.) I encouraged every person who approached my table to simply try it for themselves - and while each had their own reaction, nearly all was pleasantly surprised by it and certainly excited to add it to their holiday party shopping cart.

Which apertif do you enjoy during the holidays? Have you tried Lillet - whether on ice, with a twist, a'la James Bond or otherwise?

A bit on bubbly: Champagne

The sun is shining here in Boston and I'm off to a Grower Champagne tasting in a little while. Yes, I have something to feel jolly about! But as I was telling friends about my afternoon plans, I remembered many people don't know the tremendous loveliness that is Grower Champagne - or what I'm so excited about.  So today I'm going to launch my latest Wine Wednesday theme: A Bit on Bubbly. There's much to be understood about Champagne. How they make it (aka what makes it so special). What grapes are used (Chardonnay (white), Pinot Noir (red) and Pinot Meunier (red)) and how that translates into "English" on a wine label. Why folks are eager to expand the region. Who are the top producers (or at least those who market their wines most effectively...). I could go on. For now, let's focus on a specialty item within the Champagne world: Growers Champagne.

I'd argue Growers Champagne is the least understood and possibly the best Champagne on the market. (Yes, we all know I prefer when winemakers use the best grapes and allow the terroir to speak as loudly as possible. Oops! Did I just give something away?!) Here's the scoop:

There are a handful of brand names (Moet & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Mumm, etc.) that produce 80% of the Champagne on the market. Each of these names produces wines per a formula, or a "House Style". They largely get their grapes from whoever is selling them via the top (Grand Cru), next level (Premier Cru) or bottom teir of farmers ("generic" villages in the Champagne AOC); they only own 12% of the vineyards. The economics of this process is quite intriguing - and telling - too. The government tells growers what day they can harvest their grapes and sets the price per must weight. Such regulation means growers pick the grapes as early as possible, when the grape must weight is at it's highest. Since they get paid based on 1) village "level" with Grand Cru villages getting paid the most and 2) weight of the grapes, growers are happy. Because each House can legally doctor the final alcohol level through chapitalization, they are less concerned with the ripeness of the fruit (when the grape's natural sugar level is optimal for wine making). Winemakers also have more grape quantity to work with, allowing them to produce more Champagne for the market. The focus is on quantity, not quality. And so the vines are young, producing more fruit but having less character.

Grower Champagnes are produced by those who tend their own vines. The focus is on quality, not quantity. They select the ripest fruit so they only have to chapitalize when necessary. They use minimal dosage, less the sugar mask the flavors of the land. It's simply wine making at its best. The fact that we're dealing with Champagne in this case, well, to the victor goes the spoils!

It's not that the mass-marketed wines aren't fulfilling. (I, for one, think Perrier-Joet knows what they are doing.) But just because Grower wines are out of sight, doesn't mean they should be out of mind. Enter folks like Terry Theise, an exceptional importer of fine wines. Theise has found some special wines and, under his well-known name, is allowing these small guys to compete with big houses (the Borders of the wine world, if you will).  Suffice to say (in this long, exuberant post), I'm going to taste a few Theise selections today and will do my best to report back with some of the latest finds just in time for the Holidays.

In the meantime, I'd love to know: What's your relationship with Bubbly?