France in wine-lights this week

Tuesday night's local Taste of Somerville event went off without a hitch! Myriad folks from the area popped over to the (perhaps surprising venue of the) Holiday Inn on Washington Street to taste the wares of this greater Boston city. My colleague and I were proud to be one of the few (three, we think) establishments pouring a selection of wines for citizens to sample. While accolades abounded for each one on offer, it was hard not to notice the many pleasantly surprised faces of those who sampled one of my favorite Rose's of the season:  2008 Saint Andre Figuiere Rose from Provence, France. Why such surprise? Well, as much as we talk about it here at Pour Favor, it's one of those things where seeing, or tasting, is believing. Great rose is DRY, crisp and refreshing! We were not pouring the sweet pink stuff from California, also known as White Zinfandel. No, indeed! And, not one person (old, young or in between) was disappointed.  Our mission was accomplished.

Meanwhile, back on the proverbial farm, the Powers That Be in Brussels determined European rose production standards would remain. What's this, you ask?

Recall a few months ago we discussed headlines indicating European officials were attempting to change legislation such that the blending of red and white wines would be permitted in the production of rose wines.  Well, if you've been holding your breath in protest, you can go ahead and let it on out! This week the European Agriculture Commissioner, Mariann Fischer Boel, announced she had changed her mind. Advocacy groups had made their point: the blending of reds and whites would compromise the very essence of what makes (French) rose special - being made from old red grapes. I am so relieved.

Now to see if the French will overturn their ruling against outdoor alcohol consumption as of July 31st....

On a more somber 'French news' note, I am saddened to convey the passing of Johnny Hugel, the famous Alsatian winemaker/advocate. Open a bottle of Hugel this weekend and toast to a marvelous man. Afterall, even if you never knew the role he played in crafting today's Alsatian wine world, he is a man of great insight saying, "'People who like wine are nicer people than those who do not like wine."  I like to think that's true. ;)

Do you have fond memories drinking Hugel? 'Tis the season for these tremendous Alsatian whites!

Episode 1: the love affair between food and wine

Last weekend my "Supper Swap" group met again for the first time in a while. (We try to meet at least quarterly, picking a theme to inspire our respective culinary adventures for the night and otherwise help us break out of any cooking ruts we may have fallen into.) As we sat around the table discussing our "Summer-is-coming" dishes and what changes we would make to the recipes, I realized I have gotten away from discussing food more specifically in relation to wine on the Pour Favor blog.  I've been talking wine first, then food. But most of the time we work the other way around, right? You pick your meal or what you are going to chef, and then select a bottle to accompany it. Food is important.

I mean, yeah, there is the whole sustenance factor, lol. But in seriousness, wine is meant to be enjoyed with food. There are certainly some that excel on their own; but for the most part winemakers hope their wares grace your table and, ideally, take on a whole new meaning when matched with a wonderful meal.

This isn't to say we should always strive for the perfect pairing. Nonsense! Rather, we should be mindful that the components which make a wine a wine - fruit, acidity and tannin - are elements that, by nature, are designed for food. On that note, let's start talking about the union of food and wine over the next few weeks, shall we?

Supper Swap dish #1:  Watermelon, mint salad.

Apparently this dish was inspired by the Mustard Seed restaurant out in Davis, CA. Now their (online) recipe calls for cucumber, watermelon, mint and feta - but my friend recalled it with red onion, watermelon, mint and feta. Either which way you slice it, this salad was terrific. A true summer crowd pleaser. Fresh, healthy and delicious. And there is literally nothing more to it than dicing up the ingredients and tossing them together.

What wine would pair? This dish is incredibly versatile. But my instinct is to go for a terrific, DRY, rose - still OR sparkling! Rose tends to have terrific strawberry, raspberry or watermelon characteristics. One with more minerality (typically French offerings from areas such as Provence) or a more spice-nuanced flavor profile would be best because of the mint, bite of onion and slight richness to the feta.  You can certainly try one with more fruit-forward flavors.  But the watermelon on its own is so delicious, I'd want something nuanced in other ways to draw out it's more subtle, secondary (et. al.) flavors.

White varietals to consider would be Spanish Albarino or Txakoli or lesser known/sought French offerings like Muscadet, Gros Manseng and Picpoul.  Sauvignon Blanc might be an easier grab-and-go choice that would certainly work.  Simply think crisp, refreshing, minerality.

Prefer red? Try a fruity, ligher-styled, dry summer red. You don't want to upstage the juicy watermelon on your plate!

What wine(s) would you pick for this dish?

June's Wicked (Good) Wines Uncorked!

I can hardly believe it is already June - 6 months of 2009 are behind us and only 6 more to go!  Time to officially get our beach chairs out of storage and fill up a second propane tank as "back up" for those terrific nights of grilling ahead. The only thing needed is a few good ideas for what to uncork this month... Head on over to Wicked Local today to get the skinny on four great wines you should give a (s)wirl. Some are a party all in themselves; others will help get it started (without breaking the bank).

What other wines have you tucked into this month? Any destined to become your official summer "house" wines?

Minervois, a god-like wine

I was channeling Disney and Belle a couple of weeks ago. Today I envision a Greek god named Minervois. Except the name  "Minervois", a small sub-region of the Languedoc in France,  actually comes from the village of Minerve. Who knew? Because when I re-tasted an old favorite from this area, I wasn't just pleased with the result, it was a near-spiritual experience - for just $13 (retail). Backing up a touch, Minervois offers the world reasonably priced reds typically comprised of Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, perhaps with some Carignan or Cinsault mixed in for good measure. It depends. It's an experimental part of the world down there. Some wines are purely easy quaffing selections. But others are quite memorable. Typically the latter come from low-yield vines (remember, this means concentrated fruit flavors) in the rocky hills above the plateau.

The 2006 vintage of Chateau Coupes Roses Minervois La Bastide was a wine I first tasted nearly two years ago. I remember it having very floral notes and a tannic structure. It was very good, but it needed either food or a few breaths of fresh air to come alive and loosen up a bit. Perhaps both. Several weeks ago I happened to retaste this same vintage. Holy canolies. The extra bottle time served this wine well! If you can get your hand on a bottle (or several) I highly recommend it because it is tasting out beautifully right now. I saw the imaginary god Minervois, I'm not kidding.

To paint you a clearer picture, the Bastide is comprised of Grenache and Carignan with a touch of sultry Syrah. Today I find those same enticing floral aromatics from two years ago, with violets and juniper coming through most clearly. Tasting it is also like taking a dip in my spice rack! Sage and marjoram flow on the palate, with accents of resin and other earthy notes chiming in. It's the lush, fleshy- smooth, velvety blanket of black raspberry, plum and strawberry fruit that leaves you breathless, however.  The wine finishes with mouthwatering acidity, like a little wave washing onto the shore.

Imagine my delight when I popped over to Aquitaine in the South End last week and discovered this wine is available by the glass. It really is a savory wonder, absolutely delightful on its own and, of course, a good match for their beet salad, steak, lamb or chicken dishes. If you think you'll have more than one glass (and I suspect any wine-sipping citizen might), just treat yourself to the bottle!

Do you enjoy Minervois? What selections are in your "cellar"?

Wine and Good Customer Service

I'm noticing places that take customer service to a new level. When I get my hair cut now, I also get a bit of a neck massage. When I go out to eat, the places where the GM comes over to check on us get high points. And when I go to a wine shop and am greeted warmly, I feel comfortable both perusing on my own and asking a question if the need arises. These "little" things make a place stand out. Hop on over to Wicked Local today to meet Brian Lamb, owner of OurGlass on Route 1. He's created a shop that gives customers that little something extra. And... he's selected a handful of GREAT wines for you to take note of as warmer temperatures approach!

Have you had the pleasure of meeting Brian Lamb? What makes a wine shop stand out for you?

Wine in the summer is easy...

I'm really excited. Not only is June but days away (and a trip to the beach imminent), but the wine community is just bursting with enthusiasm and anteing up with boucoups opportunities for you to taste their wares. And when I said a trip to the beach was imminent... I meant it! Starting this Sunday, Cape Cod Life is breaking out the vino and fabulous fare for one whole week! Each night a different cultural venue hosts a soiree of sorts - and most events are only $20. Check out the schedule to make your plans and then grab your sunblock to make a day (or two) of it!

If you don't have your sights set on the Cape just yet - or if you just like an excuse to stick around Boston's South End on a Monday night - Michael Dupuy from the boutique importing/distribution company Genuine Wine Selections will be pouring some pretty sexy stuff at Estragon.

When? This Monday night, 6/1/09 from 5 -7pm.

What? Some terrific, aged Riojas from Lopez de Hereria. When's the last time you tasted a 1999 Gravonia Crianza white? Or a 1989 Tondonia Reserva white? Or a 1998 Tondonia Gran Reserva rose? Let alone a 2002 Cubillo Crianza or 1999 Tondonia Reserva red?

For those of you heading to the hills or some such this summer, don't forget your bladder. Er, uh... your wine bladder, that is. Check out this little bit of wine wizardry!

Which wine adventures are you heading out on to celebrate the first week of June?

Drinking red after Memorial Day

Folks have been coming by the shop with great gusto for warmer temps;  and they have been seeking out red wines for the occasion! No, we're not just talking about "BBQ wines". We're talking about wines to sip and enjoy with or without a meal while you sit on your porch watching the sun go down. Today I'm going to share some lesser known varietals or unique regional offerings (hybrids or blends) perfect for just such an occasion. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is taking this list (or a modified version, as you see fit) to your local shop to see which offerings they have on offer. These are some cool wines to keep your summer fresh - but they aren't necessarily available at every shop. They are, no less, worth seeking out.

Zweigelt. Austrian fruity goodness. Some earth. Often a touch tart. Lively. A hybrid of  St.-Laurent and Blaufrankish.

Dole. A Swiss wine, which blends Pinot Noir and Gamay. Fresh, ripe redberry fruits and cherries. Distinct in its own right, it has a unique identity I think many palates will embrace.

Dornfelder. Some argue this is the new "hottness" out of Germany. Another red berry-fruited wonder, but with a great spice. Terrifically light on its feet - without ever leaving planet Earth.

Gamay. Low tannin, light style red. Very fruity and THE grape in Beaujolais red wines. Seek out Beaujolais Villages offerings to get a bit more depth in your glass (aka a dash of Burgundian earthiness).

Lambrusco. An Italian, frizzante style wine. Vinified sweet and dry - so ask to accommodate your taste or intentions. A lovely spectrum of depth and redberry fruit flavors on the market.

Some of these may be familiar to you as we've bantered about several in the past. But I've been known to get stuck in traditional ruts when on a mission for an aperitif or a lighter style red to accompany a meal on a hot day. So, go on! It's a big bad world of refreshing RED wine out there.  Remember these options and... experiment!

What other reds do you like on a hot day? There are several more out there... please chime in!

Friday wine news to keep you on your toes

This just in:  if you like Toasted Head Chardonnay, take note! R.H. Phillips is closing up shop. The product is being moved to Robert Mondavi's Woodbridge enterprise. I'm sorry to hear about the closure not because I enjoy Toasted Head, but because it is closing to improve "efficiency". Granted, this is no doubt a wise business move. But if you've ever read about the French winemakers scrambling to make ends meet just to produce their wines because they feel so passionately about creating something wonderful, it is more tragic. Not that I'm comparing the small French winemaker/viticulturist to a larger than life U.S. corporate entity that churns out wine like water. Rather, to me wine at its best is artisanal. I simply wish Big Business had nothing to do with it. That said, and knowing that's how it is in some cases, I'm bummed the local community will suffer. Meanwhile, on the heels of my Leftover Bubbly article, it turns out Zork is set to launch a special closure for sparkling wines - one where you open the bottle and can reseal it with the same closure thereafter. Studies indicate the wine will keep it's mojo for several days after being opened. I'll believe it when I see it - though if anyone can do it, it'll be Zork.

But the grand prize on wine journalism this week goes to (drum roll, please...) Decanter, for Richard Woodard's article about scientists' efforts in South Africa to pinpoint the reason these wines have a general reputation for smelling (and tasting) of burnt rubber.  I'm chuckling because research to date has been "inconclusive" and - get this - they "have not yet estabilished scientifically...whether it is unique to South Africa". Having just completed the March-May trade tasting season (which included several fairly large South African portfolios), I'm pretty confident stating here this characteristic is ABSOLUTELY unique to South Africa.

And so my question heading into the Memorial Day weekend is....

Why does it feel like New World wine regions in particular are constantly trying to use technology or science to "prove" some characteristic about their wine? Does anyone else feel this way? Can't it just be what it is?

A trip to Gascony for a killer white wine

Every time a wine from Gascony, France comes across the tasting table, Disney's Beauty and the Beast comes to mind. I have no idea why. I've never even been to Gascony! Perhaps there is something about the history of that region (think Vikings, Duchies, Joan of Arc and the 100 Years War) that transports me to Belle's little village.  Of course, it doesn't help this part of the world is most famous for one of my favorite evening night caps:  Armanac. I can just see myself sitting in the Beast's big leather armchair enjoying a little sippy sip before turning in.... One of the still wines I most appreciate from that area - a Peter Weygandt selection - is quaint like Belle's village, too. It is so in all the best senses of the word. Indeed, it is "skillfully" crafted, and delightfully "unusual in an interesting, pleasing, or amusing way". It has  easy-quaffing, mouth-filling, zippy pizazz.

What is this wine I speak of? Domaine de Cassagnoles' Gros Manseng. Gros Manseng is a white varietal grown exclusively in the southwest of France. As hinted above, it is better known for its role in the creation of Armagnac. But it is not often a major player in the world of still wines - or at least not in terms of export, I imagine.  (If my suspicion is correct, then kudos to Mr. Weygandt. He's got something special on his hands!)

The Domain Cassagnoles Gros Manseng is a delicious, paradox white. It strikes my fancy in the same way that some lesser known (or appreciated?) Italian whites appeal to me (e.g. Friulano, from Italy). It is a bit on the fuller, richer-textured side of the equation, but comes no where close to being a good alternative to a full bodied, oaked Chardonnay. (Egad!) It has too much lift in the mid palate and the fruit flavors are distinct. They are reminiscent of just-ripe, white peaches, quince and apricots - fruit-forward, but not juices-running-down-your-arm sweet. The citrus component is present just enough to provide that levity and zip, without being a grapefruit or lime-bomb of acidity often found in Sauvignon Blanc. A touch of minerality gives it a sense of place; you know it must be an Old World offering. This wine is like a little girl who's a bit more "grown up" than her peers - powerful and opinionated, but still having a welcome, youthful charm.

Ah... Much like Belle, no?

If you haven't sought out Gros Manseng, please do! It is such a versatile white ready for quaffing or pairing with fresh, spring/summer dishes.

Are you familiar with (still) Gros Manseng? How about Armagnac?

What to do with leftover bubbly

Graduation season is in full swing throughout the country. No doubt corks are flying as years of hard work are celebrated and new adventures anticipated. But what to do with left over bubbly? We often think of sparkling wine as a special commodity not for everyday buying. So when purchasing a bottle (whether actual Champagne, a domestic effort or some other country's fine offering) we are remiss to waste it. But we all know sparkling doesn't hold up so well overnight. The wine simply cannot deliver the same experience on Day 2. Or can it?

Pop over to Wicked Local today to learn all about what to do with your leftovers this celebratory season. You certainly don't want to miss what Rachel Nason from Brookline-based D'Lish Intimate Catering has up her sleeve!

Then, chime in here with your own ideas!